The Mane Cut Podcast

This week, Jade and Cataanda are diving into one of the most controversial topics in the hair industry: the apprenticeship model. Should stylists still be learning by working under someone in a salon, or is formal cosmetology school the only proper path?

Cataanda comes in hot with a strong opinion: apprenticeships need to go away. As an educator and licensed cosmetologist who's worked in product development and testing, she's passionate about formal education—not just for technical skills, but for the anatomy, chemistry, business fundamentals, and safety protocols that you simply can't learn from shadowing someone at a salon.

Jade plays devil's advocate, exploring the financial barriers that push people toward apprenticeships and whether there's a middle ground that could work. They discuss what's being lost without proper training (like knowing how to recognize an allergic reaction vs. sensitivity, proper shampoo bowl positioning to prevent strokes, and why color formulas are strict math), the problems with learning someone's shortcuts instead of the proper method, and whether the current salon suite culture is making things worse.

This conversation gets into the reality of user error with chemical treatments, why some states are trying to remove licensing requirements (and why that's terrifying), and what a better system might look like. Cataanda isn't holding back—and she knows some of her friends who came up through apprenticeships might not agree.

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit themanecut.substack.com

This week, Jade sits down with Aminah, the creative force behind Amor's Hair & Co and an award-winning hairstylist who's redefining what textured hair can be.

Aminah's work lives at the intersection of beauty, music, and fine art. She's created hair art for the Amor's "Girls Will Be Girls" album, had her work featured in exhibitions, and in 2023 took home the Texture Style Awards Student Stylist of the Year—proving that her vision for hair as art is already making waves in the industry.

But Aminah's journey hasn't been straightforward. She's navigating the industry as a young artist who dropped out of cosmetology school due to financial issues and still has 68 hours left to complete. Despite this, she's created opportunities by networking at music events and art galleries, working with artists and creatives on her level, and building a portfolio that speaks for itself.

We talk about that first hair show that changed everything, the 14-hour media day creating five looks for Amor, how she convinced Miss Kenia to embrace colour for a Deeds Magazine editorial, and why she believes salon culture needs to make a comeback. Aminah also opens up about the challenges of pursuing a creative career without a license, how grief pushed her to put more passion into her projects, and why she's determined to finish school in 2026.

This is a conversation about building your career on your own terms, finding your people, and refusing to let obstacles stop you from creating art.

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit themanecut.substack.com

In this episode of The Mane Cut, Jade Buffong and Cataanda James have a necessary conversation about hair policing within the Black community — the comments, assumptions, and judgments that often come from people who look like us.

They unpack how hair policing shows up in everyday life: from length assumptions and “real hair” debates, to generational expectations around professionalism, loc stigma, and the ways social media has normalised public critique under the guise of education or humour.

The episode explores how hair policing starts early, particularly for children, and how repeated messaging around texture, length, and appearance can shape self-esteem well into adulthood. Jade and Cataanda also discuss the difference between guidance rooted in protection versus commentary rooted in control — and why intention doesn’t always reduce harm.

Through personal stories from salons, workplaces, schools, and family settings, this conversation highlights the emotional weight of unsolicited opinions and the importance of consent, context, and kindness when it comes to Black hair.

This episode isn’t about telling people how to wear their hair. It’s about recognising when opinions become pressure — and choosing to put the hair police badge down.

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit themanecut.substack.com

This week, Jade sits down with internationally acclaimed hairstylist and educator Naeemah LaFond—the 2024 North American Hairstylists Awards Editorial Stylist of the Year and the visionary founder behind Texture On Set and Black On Set.

Naeemah has trained professionals in over 15 countries, styled some of the most iconic runway looks and global campaigns, and made history as the first Black woman to serve as Global Artistic Director at a major beauty brand outside the textured hair space. But what makes this conversation so powerful isn't just her impressive resume—it's her unflinching honesty about what it really takes to break barriers and build inclusive spaces in an industry that wasn't designed for us.

We talk about growing up in Brooklyn where hair culture was everywhere, the moment in a salon that changed her trajectory, and the parallel struggles she witnessed between herself not getting hired and Black models receiving inadequate care on set. Those experiences became the fuel for Texture On Set—an event that's amassed over 5 million impressions and created a space where hairstylists of all levels feel included, celebrated, and seen.

Naeemah opens up about being "the first and the only" in rooms that weren't built for her, navigating corporate spaces without losing herself, and why she's walked away from big checks that didn't align with her values. She breaks down the harsh realities of editorial pay (spoiler: that magazine cover might only pay $150-$300), why production companies still aren't vetting hairstylists properly, and how she's teaching silk presses in blowout classes as a form of quiet activism.

But this conversation isn't just about the problems—it's about solutions. Naeemah shares what it takes to succeed (grit, focus, and integrity), how to be a strategic mentor without burning out, and why the Black On Set sisterhood has become her most fulfilling achievement. She also reveals how she worked with Pinterest to develop their hair pattern search tool, proving that inclusivity needs to happen not just backstage but in tech too.

This is a masterclass in building a legacy while bringing everyone up with you. Whether you're an aspiring editorial stylist, a seasoned pro, or someone trying to figure out how to create change in spaces that resist it—this episode is for you.

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit themanecut.substack.com

This week, Jade sits down with Morgan Mills—a boundary-pushing hairstylist, creative director, and multidisciplinary artist who's styled everyone from Winnie Harlow to Young Thug to SZA.

Morgan's work has graced campaigns for Meta and Converse, been featured in Vogue and The Cut, and showcased at New York Fashion Week. But her impact goes beyond celebrity styling—she's building an empire that includes a luxury extensions line and salon rental suites in the DMV designed to support the next generation.

We talk about how Brooklyn salon culture shaped her vision, playing with Bratz dolls until ninth grade, and the wild story of how one Fashion Week phone call led to eight years as Young Thug's hairstylist—including those iconic pink locs. Morgan gets real about why she started her own extensions brand (hint: clients bringing in Amazon hair that ruins expensive tools), the importance of clarifying shampoos and regular treatments, and why her salon suite model brings back the community feel she fell in love with as a kid.

From perfecting products to manifesting film work and a Winnie Harlow collab, Morgan is proof you can honor where you came from while building the business model that works for today.

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit themanecut.substack.com

In this deeply personal episode, Jade and Cataanda tackle a topic that doesn't get discussed enough: hair grief. Whether it's unexpected heat damage, a stylist who chemically straightened your hair without permission, stress-induced hair loss, or hormonal changes during perimenopause, the emotional impact of major hair setbacks is real and valid.

Topics Covered:

Understanding Hair Grief What hair grief looks like when you experience unexpected changes to your hair, why it feels like losing part of your identity, and how the loss of choice makes the grief even more profound.

Common Causes of Hair Trauma Heat damage from improper silk presses, the "deep conditioner" that's actually a relaxer, keratin treatments that are chemical straighteners in disguise, and how stylist persuasion can work against you.

The Role of Communication Why clients and stylists speak different languages, the importance of thorough consultations, and how miscommunication leads to devastating outcomes.

Life Stage Hair Loss Cataanda shares her personal experience with perimenopause hair loss, why "it's just hair, it grows back" isn't always true, and the reality of watching your hair thin significantly.

Supporting Clients Through Hair Trauma How stylists can emotionally support clients experiencing hair grief, when to listen more than speak, and when to step in with professional advice as a certified hair loss practitioner.

The Grief Process Why grief doesn't follow a linear path, how triggers can restart the grieving process, and the difference between situations you can control versus those you can't.

Moving to Acceptance Understanding that looking different doesn't mean looking worse, why we need to separate our self-worth from our hair, and how to give yourself grace through the healing process.

Starting with the Next Generation Why teaching children to embrace their natural hair early matters, the impact of constantly adding extensions to young girls' hair, and breaking the cycle for future generations.

Key Moments:

Cataanda going undercover to a salon to see if they'd try the "relaxer in the deep conditioner" trick on her

The celebrity styling disaster that made Cataanda think her career was over

Why you should never get heat damage on your first silk press

How Black women's hair carries so much of the Black girl magic

Resources Mentioned:

Care in the Chair - domestic violence and trafficking awareness trainingPsychoHairapy courses for hairstylists

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit themanecut.substack.com

Meet Ariana

Ariana is a licensed cosmetologist, editorial stylist, and the creative force behind Ariana’s Canvas. Her work centres around natural hair, wellness, and artistry - bringing her artistic touch from sketchbook to editorial shoots, runways, and short films.

Where to find Ariana: Instagram | Website

The interview

Here are all the questions we asked Ariana, so you can fast-forward to the best parts.

[03:08] How did you go from braiding Barbies to styling on Fashion Week runways?

[07:59] What’s the unglamorous reality of building a hair career?

[08:44] Why do you centre wellness in protective styling?

[14:19] How did your personal hair loss experience shape your approach to clients?

[18:47] What does your client experience look like from intake to appointment?

[26:10] How do you balance editorial work, clients, and travel?

[33:04] What are your future aspirations in the industry?

[38:00] Why should beauty brands hire hairstylists on their marketing teams?

Who has Ariana styled?

Sets and styles Ariana has styled.

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Ariana’s top tip for stylists

Ariana's top tip: Don’t wait for balance - earn it. Everyone sees the Instagram highlights, but nobody shows you the 3am drives or the unopened award boxes. You have to work hard before you can work smart. Building a sustainable career means being honest about what it really takes.

Some takeaways

For stylists 💇🏾‍♀️

Protective styles aren’t protecting anything without moisture - If there’s no leave-in conditioner, no steam treatment, no hydration before installation, you’re not protecting hair. Braiding dry hair and calling it protective is missing the entire point.

The client experience starts before they walk in - Ariana’s intake form includes everything from hair density to inspo photos to one crucial question: “Will you come with good vibes?” Setting intention from the start changes everything.

Education is power, not competition - Share your knowledge with clients. Tell them what products you’re using, how to care for their hair at home, and why certain techniques work. AI won’t replace service-based jobs, so stop gatekeeping.

The reality behind the scenes isn’t glamorous - This week alone: shoots in New York Thursday and Friday, clients in Maryland on Saturday, a wedding in New Jersey on Sunday, another shoot Monday. The hustle is real, and balance has to be earned.

Beauty brands need hairstylists, not just influencers - Having a marketing degree AND hands-on hair expertise makes you invaluable. Brands that only use influencers miss the mark on education, proper product use, and avoiding major mistakes that could’ve been caught by a professional.

You’re still learning, even years in - Ariana calls herself a “baby stylist” at 25. There’s no shame in being early in your journey. The goal is to always be a student to the craft and keep community first.

Resources Mentioned:

Tressemé Future Stylists Fund

Beauty Changes Lives scholarship program

Beauty Launchpad 30 for 30

The Bottom Line: Building a career in beauty requires working hard before you work smart. It means 3am drives, sacrificing school enrolment for opportunities, and figuring out balance along the way. But when you centre wellness, education, and intentionality in your work, you create something sustainable.

What resonated most with you from this episode? Hit reply and let me know.

Listen now on Apple, Spotify, Overcast, and YouTube.

🔍 Where to find Jade: Instagram | LinkedIn

🪮 Where to find Mane Hook-Up: Website | Instagram

🗣️ Become or recommend a guest

See you in the next episode!

From, The Mane Cut Team

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit themanecut.substack.com

In this episode, Jade and Cataanda are back after a 6-week break to debunk five of the biggest myths in textured hair care - from washing frequency to protective styles.

Topics Covered:

Myth #1: Only wash your hair once a month Why dirty scalps block follicles and prevent growth. The 7-14 day washing rule explained.

Myth #2: Cutting makes hair grow faster Understanding length retention vs actual growth, and why genetics matter most.

Myth #3: Greasing your scalp promotes growth Why grease blocks oxygen and what your scalp actually needs.

Myth #4: All alcohols and silicones are bad The difference between good and bad ingredients, plus why natural products spoil quickly.

Myth #5: Protective styles need no maintenance How to properly care for your hair and scalp under braids, weaves, and other protective styles.

Products Mentioned:

Lush natural hair products Vita Hair Growth line Micellar water

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit themanecut.substack.com

This week's episode tackles a question we get ALL the time: Should I be taking hair care advice from my favourite textured hair influencer, or should I stick to licensed professionals?

The short answer? Both have their place, but it's all about knowing WHEN to listen to whom.

🎯 The Bottom Line:

Influencers = Great for discovery and raising awareness

Licensed Stylists = Essential for personalised, science-backed recommendations

💡 Key Insights from This Episode:

The COVID Effect Was Real - The pandemic forced many of us into DIY mode, making influencers our go-to guides. But some of us never went back to professionals, and that's where things get tricky.

Your Hair ≠ Their Hair - Just because a product works amazingly on your favorite influencer doesn't mean it'll work for you. Different biology, health conditions, medications, stress levels, and even sleep patterns all affect how products perform.

The Business Side Matters - Remember, influencing is a JOB. When someone's getting paid to promote a product, they literally can't tell you it sucks (it's probably in their contract!).

The Viral TV Disaster We Can't Stop Talking About:

Cataanda shared the story of influencer Deepika's infamous live TV hair styling fail on the Today Show in 2015. It's a perfect example of why expertise matters - especially when working with textured hair.

✅ States Leading the Way:

These states now REQUIRE textured hair education in cosmetology programs:

California

Connecticut

Louisiana

Maine

Minnesota

New York

Washington

Vermont

(If you live in one of these states, you're in a better position to find knowledgeable stylists!)

🌟 Our Recommendations:

Find a licensed stylist you trust for personalised advice

Use influencers for discovery and industry updates

Cross-check influencer recommendations with your stylist

Look for influencers who are ALSO licensed professionals

Always do your research before trying new products or techniques

💎 Gold Standard Alert:

Cataanda recommends Deeper Than Hair on YouTube - an influencer who's also a licensed stylist doing celebrity hair. That's the sweet spot we're looking for!

Remember: Your hair is connected to your health. Treat advice accordingly. Get personalized recommendations from someone trained to assess YOUR specific needs, not just someone with great content and a ring light.

What's your experience been? Have you found amazing stylists or trusted influencers? Drop us a comment - we love hearing your stories!

Need a stylist? Check out our booking platform to find the best textured hair stylists in London and New York.

🔍 Where to find Cataanda: Instagram | LinkedIn

🔍 Where to find Jade: Instagram | LinkedIn

🪮 Where to find Mane Hook-Up: Website | Instagram

🗣️ Become or recommend a guest

See you in the next episode!

From, The Mane Hook-Up team

P.S. - We're always looking for episode topics! What do you want us to cover next?

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit themanecut.substack.com

Meet Keisha

With over 20 years of experience, Keisha has worked across events from the Southern Women's Show to Richmond and New York Fashion Week. Her work has been featured in Modern Salon, Behind the Chair, and many more publications. She's won several awards including Editorial of the Year from the Beauty Awards and Willow Bayes Creative Hair winner.

Where to find Keisha: Instagram | Website

The interview

Here are all the questions we asked Keisha, so you can fast-forward to the best parts.

[01:44] How did you know you were meant to be a hairstylist from childhood?

[03:15] What was your first breakthrough into editorial work?

[05:06] What's it really like competing in hair competitions?

[10:20] How do you advocate for textured hair representation on sets?

[15:06] What's the biggest lesson that took you too long to learn as a stylist?

[19:13] Where's the real money in the hair industry?

[21:46] How do you balance creative work with running a business?

[22:58] How did you find your mentors and build your support network?

[28:07] What are the biggest struggles when building an editorial career?

[30:51] What's the truth about collaborations that stylists need to know?

[34:00] What's your advice for stylists wanting to transition into editorial work

[39:14] What's next for your career?

Who has Keisha styled?

Sets and styles Keisha has styled.

Thanks for reading The Mane Cut! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support our work.

Keisha’s top tip for stylists

Keisha's top tip: Contact anybody that you want to work with. Figure out their email information, contact them, blow them up, in their DMs, in their emails, send them wherever they're at. And don't stop until they see you. Because I know Crystal said, if you ain't did it seven times and you have not told somebody about what you do seven times, you ain't doing nothing.

Some takeaways

For stylists 💇🏾‍♀️

Financial literacy is everything - There's SO much money in the hair industry, but if you don't know how to manage it, save for opportunities, or price your work correctly, you'll stay stuck. Keisha grew up in poverty and had to teach herself everything about business finances.

Editorial work builds portfolio, not bank accounts - Magazine shoots and artistic projects don't pay well. It's for portfolio building and networking. Campaigns and celebrity work? That's where the money lives. You need a strategic mix.

Contracts are non-negotiable - Even in free collaborations, photographers legally own all photos unless you have a contract stating otherwise. Keisha learned this the hard way after doing incredible work and never seeing the images.

Finding your people takes time - Not all hairstylists want to do editorial or campaigns. Finding photographers, makeup artists, and fashion designers who share your vision can take years, but it's essential for building your career.

Persistence pays off - The networking game requires consistency. Reach out to people seven times before giving up. They need to see your name repeatedly to remember you.

Representation matters behind the scenes - Being the person who can properly style textured hair when others can't makes you invaluable on sets where diversity isn't just visual but skillful.

Rest is part of the strategy - Keisha is currently taking a strategic break to regroup financially and mentally. Sustainable career building includes knowing when to rest and recharge.

Resources Mentioned:

Wella BEA Awards (currently accepting entries)

NAHA competitions

Crystal Wright's Win Now program

The Bottom Line: Building a creative career requires more than talent. It requires business knowledge, the right community, clear contracts, and enough financial stability to say yes when opportunities come.

What resonated most with you from this episode? Hit reply and let me know.

Listen now on Apple, Spotify, Overcast, and YouTube.

🔍 Where to find Jade: Instagram | LinkedIn

🪮 Where to find Mane Hook-Up: Website | Instagram

🗣️ Become or recommend a guest

See you in the next episode!

From, The Mane Hook-Up team

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit themanecut.substack.com