The MeatEater

It’s the annual World Championship Squirrel Cook Off in Bentonville, Arkansas. Brent’s sitting down with Kevin Murphy, Josh Spielmaker, Lake Pickle, Dave Gardner, and Joe Wilson for a round table discussion of the event and what everyone’s been up too. Fix a plate and get comfortable. It’s time for MeatEater’s “This Country Life” podcast.

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It happens to every hunter eventually. Whether you’re hunting solo in the backcountry or you take a big buck, bull, or bear at last light, you’ll suddenly find it impossible to get your meat out of the woods during the light of day. While you can chance an all-night pack out, this isn’t always a good idea in rough terrain or grizzly country. In that case, you’ll have to leave your meat in the woods overnight.

In all my years of hunting and guiding, I’ve left a lot of meat hanging until the next day, and I’ve also spent countless sleepless nights worrying about what I might find in the morning. While things usually go smoothly, I’ve faced some worst-case scenarios, like having an entire deer devoured by coyotes and having to drive a bear off a half-eaten elk. To avoid these nightmares, here’s a few things you can do to ensure you have a smooth packout come morning.

The easiest way to keep game meat safe overnight is to hang it out of reach of predators. Not only will this keep scavengers from getting to your meat before you do, but it will also help air to circulate and cool the meat in warmer weather. While it may seem easy enough, getting even a small doe, let alone an elk or moose quarter into a tree is a lot harder than it looks. So, if you’re hunting in an area where you may have to leave game for the night, make sure you prepare with the right supplies.

If you’re planning on quartering and packing your animal, you need quality game bags. Not only do game bags both help to keep meat dry and clean, but they also help prevent the spread of scent that can attract scavengers. Good quality game bags will keep your meat safe from bears and coyotes as well as arboreal scavengers like pine martens, fisher cats, and even mountain lions.

Whether you’re hanging meat or a whole animal, you’ll need some serious cordage. Carry at least 30 to 40 feet of nylon rope and/or 15 to 20 feet of paracord. While it may seem easy to get meat into a tree by yourself, it always ends up being a lot heavier than you think. I like to carry three to five inexpensive pulley wheels or even a small block and tackle set up to make the process a little easier.

Whenever you hang a carcass or meat in a tree, it’s important to get it high and away from tree trunks or other climbable areas. It can take a bit of searching to find the right spot, but it’s incredibly important not to rush the process, or you can risk losing everything.

Look for a lone tree that’s at least 50 to 100 yards away from the gut pile or butchered carcass. Try to find a tree with thicker branches that can bear heavy weights. Make sure the branch you use is at least 10 to 15 feet off the ground and then fling your rope over it. Attach your pulley or block and tackle to the rope and then tie it off to your meat or animal. Pull the rope and raise the meat until it’s nearly touching the branch, then tie it off securely to a nearby root, rock, or tree at ground level with a bowline or hitch tie.

Once your meat is secure, sweep the area and make sure there are no errant blood drops or other refuse that may attract scavengers to the hanging meat.

While it may be easy to butcher and hang something as small as a deer or antelope by yourself, taking on a larger animal like a moose or elk is an entirely different story. Additionally, there are a lot of places such as deserts or open plains, where finding a good tree to hang your meat just isn’t an option. In either situation your only option might be caching your game on the ground.

The key to caching meat or a whole animal for the night is to cover it as much as possible. If you’re in an area with a lot of rocks or even a handy cave, you can move the meat in game bags or even the whole animal into the cave or a gap in the rocks and then cover it over with stones. However, if the animal is too large to move or you don’t have time to quarter it out, you’ll have to cache it where it lies.

Field dress the animal and then move the entrails 100 to 200 yards or more away from the carcass. Next, try to find vegetation such as pine boughs, sage, or other brush, cut it free, and use it to cover every visible part of the carcass. Covering the animal with vegetation won't stop a predator who finds it, but hiding it from sight will make that prospect slightly less likely. Finally, make sure you didn't leave a trail of blood or refuse between the cache and gut pile that predators might follow.

No matter how you stash your game meat overnight, it’s extremely important to play the wind. I’ve glassed grizzly bears following scent trails for over a mile in open, windy areas, so whenever you can, do your best to leave meat in sheltered areas that block the breeze.

Try to hang or cache meat in sheltered inland valleys, dense timber, or deep coulees and canyons where the wind is less likely to carry the scent very far. If you’re forced to leave it in a more open or windy area, you can rub game bags or the hide of an animal with natural scents such as crushed pine needles or even wet dirt to help hide the smell.

It should be noted that, while many hunters believe that urinating around the area will help cover smells or even scare off predators, it often has the opposite effect. Many larger predators, including bears, wolves, and coyotes, will actually be attracted to the smell of urine and will often investigate the area instead of running away. Small rodents such as mice and rats can also be attracted to the smell of urine due to the salt content, so just hold it until you’re a few hundred yards from where you hang your game meat.

The fact is, aside from sitting out in the field all night and guarding it (which can be extremely dangerous), there is no real way to guarantee your meat will remain safe throughout the night. Aside from scavengers, things like unexpected weather events can cover or ruin your meat, and even other human hunters can steal your bounty, speaking from experience.

But if you go in prepared and take the proper precautions, you’ll be able to get a decent night’s rest and wake up refreshed and ready to claim your hard-earned reward once the sun finally does rise.

In this episode of Back 40, Jake Hofer asks Bill Winke, Jeff Sturgis, Adam Keith, and Aaron Warbritton to each choose the week they would circle on the calendar if they had to make one educated bet.

Presented by Moultrie

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Question: In Hot Weather, How Much Time Do You Have to Get Your Deer to the Processor?

Answer: Like all good questions, it depends. Generally, the faster you can break down an animal and get it cold, the better. In hot weather, you should prepare ahead of time so you don’t risk meat spoilage. While “hot” might be relative to your geographical location, anything above 40 degrees requires special care. Temps above 70 demand expediency. Anything above 90, every minute counts.

If you can quickly retrieve your deer in a truck, cart, or side-by-side, you don’t have to stress too much, especially if you can get to the processor within the hour. A lot of folks don’t want to process a deer in these conditions. However, if you want the least amount of spoilage, I would suggest field dressing your deer before dropping it at the processor if the temps are above 40 degrees. Also, consider that your processor might not get to your deer right away. They could be backed up or short-staffed, and it could be even longer before they’re able to break down your animal. A good processor will do away with any spoilage. A less thoughtful one will throw it in your grindpile. If you want to avoid either, just take an extra 5 to 10 minutes and gut your deer.

You might not always be a hop and a skip from the processor. In these cases, you definitely want to field dress your deer or even debone it in the field (where legal). Let’s say you don’t have far to drag your deer, but you won’t be able to drop it at the processor for at least a few hours, and the temps are above 70 degrees. First, field dress your deer. If you’re transporting it, buy a bag or two of ice and stuff it in the cavity to help keep it cool. This will give you plenty of time to get your deer to the processor without exposing it to warm, bacteria-forming temps (anything above 40 degrees) for an extended period of time.

On the other hand, you might find yourself miles from the trailhead. In temps above 70 degrees, I’m deboning a deer. One, because it’s just not feasible to drag a deer in some of these scenarios. Second, it’s crucial to start cooling meat when the mercury rises. In hot, humid environments, this is especially important. Besides, there’s nothing better than knowing you don’t have to clean a deer after a long walk back to the truck.

Make sure you have a solid set of game bags and a hunting pack that allows your deer meat to breathe. Contractor bags are a cheap way to go, but they don’t allow your meat to cool adequately. When you make it back to the truck, get your meat in the cooler and ice it fast. The meat will still be dissipating heat, so try to separate it as best you can in your cooler. Don’t just pack it tight.

Still, other factors like the recovery time and whether or not you gut shot your deer also factor into meat spoilage. Rupturing the intestines and exposing the bacteria that live in there to the rest of the deer doesn’t bode well for warm temperatures. If you gut shot a deer and have to leave it overnight in temperatures above 40 degrees, you’ll want to check the deer as you clean it. For instance, if you smell stomach bile on the meat as you’re breaking it down, you’ll have to consider whether or not it’s worth the risk of eating it. I’m not proposing that you flippantly waste meat, but it might help you determine whether or not you should take a questionable shot in warm temps.

Have a whitetail related question? Send it to [email protected] and check back to see if we cover it.

Steven Rinella answers questions from listeners, forums, and reviews including: does hunting need more recruitment; career regrets; the most maligned game animal; guided hunts; the best restaurant meals; invasive species; and more!

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With Clay and Bear away, Josh "Landbridge" Spielmaker leads the discussion with a room full of bear hunters. He is joined by River Newcomb, Matt Gagnon of Time Honored Media, and Joe Liles, retired US Forest Service law enforcement officer and his wife Crystal. Josh, River, and Joe recall the stories of the weeks bear harvest in Arkansas with three successful hunts. With bear hunting, nothing is ever just straightforward, so tune in to hear all the twists and turns and unexpected circumstances that keep us returning to the woods year after year.

Thank you to our sponsor, Tecovas.

If you have comments on the show, send us a note to [email protected]

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This week on the show I'm joined by Kevin Monteith - wildlife researcher and professor at the University of Wyoming - to discuss the current status and key factors impacting the future of some of the American West's most iconic animals - mule deer, elk, pronghorn, moose, and bighorn sheep.

Thanks to our sponsor, Conservation First Bank.

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Spencer Neuharth hosts MeatEater Trivia with Brody Henderson, Randall Williams, Seth Morris, Alyssa Smith, Reva Hansen, and Dane Wiliams.

Enjoy Mountain Dew, an American Original.

Presented by Busch Light

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It was already 80 degrees before the sun peeked over the horizon. I had sweat rolling like the Mississippi between my shoulder blades, but that wasn’t even the worst of it. A cloud of mosquitoes found me, buzzing in from off the pond like a formation of B-52 bombers taking aim at their target—me.

Early season deer hunting in the South is a special kind of misery. It’s hot and humid, and you sweat in places you didn’t know you could sweat. Plus, the bugs are still partying like it’s midsummer. Somewhere around the tenth mosquito bite, it’s easy to start questioning all of your life choices.

Mosquitos suck, and swatting at them in the treestand can blow your cover fast. But slathering yourself in bug spray can create its own set of problems, especially when you’re trying to keep a low scent profile. Thankfully, there are some solid strategies to keep the bugs at bay without ruining every early-season sit.

Avoiding the kinds of spots mosquitoes love is one of the easiest ways to skirt them. The boogers love stagnant water and thick, damp cover. Yes, big bucks like those kinds of places, too. But moving your stand 100 yards uphill can take you out of the swarms without taking you completely out of the action. Higher, drier ground often has fewer mosquitoes than a dank, stale bottom.

Getting up out of a low stand location can also get you into some moving air. Even a mild breeze can make a big difference when you’re trying to sit still in an oak tree. It probably won’t drive off every bug in the county, but it may help keep them from hovering around your face and ears the whole time.

It’s impossible to completely outrun mosquitoes in the South. They’re still pretty much everywhere in September, and deer seem to like the kinds of wet, nasty places where they thrive. Sit outside long enough, and the mosquitoes will find you. Luckily, permethrin can make it tolerable even in the buggiest conditions.

Permethrin is a synthetic form of pyrethrin, the chrysanthemum’s natural insecticide. You can buy pre-treated hunting clothing or spritz your favorite pieces down with a 0.5% permethrin product like Sawyer. Once it’s dry, it bonds to the fabric and offers long-lasting protection that even lasts multiple washes. It is also odorless once it dries. If you decide to go with pre-treated clothing, just know it will eventually wear off after so many washes. You can always treat it again after it fades.

I treat lightweight, breathable layers before the season starts. Then, I don’t have to reapply in the stand, even when I’m sweating through everything. Permethrin only goes on your clothes, not your skin. That means any exposed skin is still hanging out there, tempting mosquitoes.

So what do you do to keep exposed skin from becoming a mosquito buffet? Picaridin is one solid solution. It’s an effective mosquito repellent without the material-damage concerns or strong chemical stench that DEET carries. DEET works extremely well against mosquitoes, but it’s also a strong solvent that can damage synthetic coatings, rubber, vinyl, and plastic on everything from binoculars and GPS screens to rain gear.

DEET also has a pungent chemical smell that just isn’t welcome in a deer stand. A fragrance-free picaridin formula is a good alternative to DEET. Smear it on exposed skin before you climb in the stand. Your face, ears, and neck are obvious targets, but don’t overlook your hands and fingers, especially if you don’t wear gloves. Mosquito bites on fingers are a unique form of torture, especially when you’re trying to sit still with a bow in hand.

When I’m hunting early-season heat, I consider a Thermacell an essential piece of hunting gear. I’m a total Thermacell fangirl. I’ve used them for years. They are a simple way to make something close to a mosquito-free bubble around a deer stand.

These handy little devices use a butane cartridge to heat a repellent-treated mat. It takes a little time to warm up (about fifteen minutes), but once it gets going, it makes mosquitoes rethink buzzing in to snack on your skin.

But what do the deer think? The standard Thermacell mats do produce a distinctive odor, and a deer’s keen sense of smell is more than capable of picking it up. But the jury is still out on whether or not that odor will spook deer. I haven’t been busted with a Thermacell, but I play the wind religiously. In fact, the faint plume they emit can actually help me pick up slight shifts in air movement. You can also swap out the standard-issue Thermacell mat for an earth scent refill and use it as a cover scent.

Mosquitoes seem to have a knack for finding even the smallest patches of bare skin. Your fingers, ears, and the back of your neck are like rare delicacies to them. All three are also tough places to scratch when you’re trying hard to be a statue in a treestand.

A lightweight pair of gloves can keep your fingers and hands from being eaten alive. But make sure you practice shooting with them before opening day. If you aren’t used to handling a bow and manipulating a release while wearing gloves, it can take some getting used to.

A mesh face mask like the kind spring turkey hunters love can really help keep mosquitoes from attacking your face and ears. However, loose netting can get in the way of your bowstring and anchor point. It can also potentially catch on the string during the shot.

You can also cover your face, ears, and neck with a lightweight neck gaiter. They’re not as bulky as a mesh mask and still keep mosquitoes off those tender spots. You can even use a permethrin-treated gaiter to really deter those bloodsuckers.

Early-season bowhunting is a hot, sweaty ordeal across much of the country. There’s no reason to make it worse by donating a pint of blood to the local mosquito population. With a little thought and preparation, you can keep the swatting to a minimum and spend your sit listening for deer instead of the buzz of mosquitoes swarming around your ears.