The Old Farmer's Almanac Garden Musings

Going Nuts

When looking for an attractive shade tree or a unique specimen for your yard, consider nuts. They fit into most landscapes and provide plenty of fresh, flavorful nuts for baking and snacks. The English, or Persian, walnut (Juglans regia) is a fast-growing, medium-size tree with a handsome rounded crown and open, spreading branches. The compound leaves create an almost tropical effect.

At one time, the forests of the eastern United States were filled with American chestnut trees (Castanea dentata), but almost all have been destroyed by a fungal disease called chestnut blight. You can still enjoy the old-time flavor of roasted chestnuts by planting the blight-resistant Chinese chestnut (C. mollissima). It yields sweet, meaty nuts in just three to five years and has an added bonus of long pale-yellow flowers in late spring.

Another delightful flowering nut tree that is usually associated with warm climates is the common almond (Prunus dulcis). By selecting cold-tolerant cultivars like ‘Hall’s Hardy’, you can grow almonds as far north as Zone 5. The fragrant pale-pink flowers are reason enough to grow almonds, and your first crop of creamy-white nuts will literally add icing to the cake.

The American hazelnut, or filbert (Corylus americana), rarely grows over 12 feet tall, making it a good tree for cramped places. The fluffy yellow male flowers, called catkins, are attention-getters in early spring, and the unpredictable fall foliage ranges from pale yellow to fiery red. If left unpruned, hazelnuts tend to shoot up suckers and become shrubby, making them a nice choice for hedges or screens. Expect a harvest of sweet plump nuts in two to three years from the time of planting.

Hazelnuts and certain other nut trees require cross-pollination for fruits to form; this means that you’ll need to plant more than one variety together. For self-fruitful nuts, such as walnuts, you don’t need two varieties, but it’s best to plant at least two of the same type of tree to ensure complete pollination. Besides, what could be more fun than having a couple of nuts hanging around to brighten up your yard?

This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor.

Those Itsy Bitsy Spiders

More than 30,000 species of spiders have been discovered so far. Most of them are itsy bitsy indeed, some smaller than the head of a pin, but there are big ones, too. Certain tarantulas found in tropical South America have a five-inch-long body with a leg span of ten inches and often dine on frogs and small lizards.

Although spiders are feared by many, they almost never bite unless disturbed, and very few are poisonous to humans. In fact, spiders are garden heroes that kill more insects than any other creature on Earth. Spiders are not insects but instead belong to a class known as arachnids, which includes ticks and mites, and are distant cousins of scorpions and crabs.

The majority of spiders are web builders that trap their prey in silken snares. The silk is produced in glands in the spider’s abdomen and discharged through spinning tubes in long liquid strands that harden when they come in contact with the air.

Even though web-building spiders have eight eyes, they have poor eyesight and locate their victims through vibrations in the web. When an insect becomes tangled in the sticky trap, the spider binds it in strands of silk. Then it literally sucks the life out of its prey’s body, leaving just the hard shell. Oil secreted by the spider keeps it from becoming trapped in its own web.

Not all spiders build webs. Some hunt in plants or on the ground. The wolf spider is equipped with keen vision and powerful legs for running down its prey; it then kills the victim with quick stabs from its venomous fangs.

The trap-door spider lives in a burrow lined with silk and covered with a round silken lid. When the spider feels the vibrations of an approaching insect, it springs from its hiding place and pulls its victim underground.

As ferocious as spiders are to other bugs, they are quite vulnerable; they are attacked by wasps, birds, frogs, and even other spiders, and are highly sensitive to pesticides. Considering the quantities of harmful insects that they eat, perhaps we should hold off on spraying our gardens and give the spiders a chance to solve our pest problems.

This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor.

Grow Garlic for the Health of It

For ages, garlic has been revered as food and medicine and for the magical properties it was once thought to possess. The Chinese knew of its healing and disease-preventing properties 5,000 years ago. It was fed to the builders of the Great Pyramids and was hung on the outside of houses throughout Europe to protect those within from witches and vampires.

Today, it is known that garlic can lower cholesterol, reduce high blood pressure, and destroy bacteria and fungi. Studies indicate that it may even play a role in preventing heart disease and treating certain types of cancer. A sulfur-based compound known as allicin is responsible for garlic’s health-giving benefits as well as its pungent smell. Cooking will tame garlic’s pervasive odor and sweeten its taste, but high heat or overcooking may remove some of its beneficial properties.

Garlic just about grows itself, and if you cook at all, you should include some in your garden. There are two types of true garlic: hard-neck varieties, which are favored by experienced cooks for their rich flavor and ease of peeling, and the productive soft-necks, which are known for their keeping qualities.

Plant garlic in the fall after the first hard frost; this should give the plant time to establish good root growth before the ground freezes. Choose a sunny spot with fertile, well-drained soil. Separate the individual cloves from the bulbs, and plant them five inches apart and two inches deep with the pointed end facing up. Keep the soil moist during this critical rooting period. In areas where temperatures fall below 0°F (–18°C), apply a six-inch-deep layer of straw or pine needles as a winter mulch. The garlic will be ready to harvest in mid- to late summer, depending on the variety. As the bulbs mature, the foliage will start to brown. When only five to six leaves remain on the plant, dig up the bulb as you would an onion.

Garlic is a proven pest repellent, and when planted throughout the garden, it protects other crops from insects and animal pests. It seems that garlic is just as beneficial for plants as it is for us.

Plants may not need 8 glasses of water each day, but they appreciate a drink on a fairly regular basis. Listen to learn how best to give them their required dosage of H2O so that they are as fit as a fiddlehead.

This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor.

 

The art of watering is one of the most difficult skills for gardeners to master. More plants die from improper watering (too much or too little) than from any other reason.

To tend to your plants’ water needs, first look at the soil. For healthy growth, plants must take in both water and oxygen through their roots. Soils containing mostly clay easily become waterlogged and have almost no air space. On the other hand, coarse sandy soils have plenty of space for air but drain water too quickly. Adding organic matter such as compost will improve both of these soils and help maintain the balance of water and air.

Plants grow best when given long, deep, infrequent waterings, which encourage deep rooting. Frequent light waterings encourage roots to grow too close to the soil surface, where they dry out quickly.

Most gardens and lawns need between 1 and 2 inches of water per week to completely saturate their root zones. To see how much water your sprinklers are applying, place cans around the area and measure the depth of water in each after you’ve finished watering. The amount of water that your plants actually need will depend upon weather and the site. Plants growing in shade, and those that are heavily mulched, may go for days without needing a drink; those exposed to wind and sun may require more frequent soakings. Don’t trust what you see on the surface of the soil to determine when to water; dig down 6 inches or more to see if it is moist in the root zone.

Old gardening wisdom tells us to water only in the cool of the evening or in the morning before the wind comes up, but absolutely never in the heat of mid-afternoon. Watering at cool times will conserve water that otherwise might be lost to evaporation, but from the plants’ point of view, a cool shower on a sweltering afternoon is quite beneficial. Studies show that wetting the foliage during the hottest part of the day prevents wilt and encourages stronger turf, larger crop yields, and prolonged bloom on flowering plants. Hopefully, your plants will benefit when you follow a little watering advice that’s not all wet.

Humans are about 60 percent water; watermelons are about 90 percent. It makes sense, then, that these melon marvels are looked upon as refreshing, juicy summer treats. Listen to learn how to raise these remarkable fruit grown as vegetables.

This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor.

 

What better way to top off a summer picnic or barbecue than with a juicy slice of sweet watermelon? Although watermelon may seem as traditionally American as apple pie, it is actually a native of Africa and is grown in 96 countries.

Watermelon is a tropical plant that requires high temperatures and a long growing season. Large varieties like ‘Georgia Rattlesnake’ (the kind sold in supermarkets) require at least 90 to 100 days to ripen. In areas where the growing season isn’t long enough to raise standard-size melons, the midget or icebox types are best. ‘Festival’, ‘Sugar Baby’, and the yellow-fleshed ‘Sunshine’ are three fast-growing melons that will produce 8- to 10-pound fruits in about 75 days.

For best growth, watermelons need daytime temperatures of 80°F (27°C) or more and warm nights. Gardeners in cold climates should start seeds indoors at least 4 weeks before they are to be set out. Watermelons are commonly grown in hills, because the soil stays warmer when mounded. Hills are usually fashioned 4 to 6 inches high and 2 feet across, and spaced 4 to 6 feet apart. Watermelons are gluttonous feeders and will benefit from plenty of rotted manure and 1⁄3 pound of 5-10-5 fertilizer spaded into each hill.

Allow two plants per hill, or if seeding directly, sow four to six seeds—evenly spaced and 1⁄2 inch deep. When seedlings appear, thin out all but the strongest two. Continue to feed the plants every 2 to 3 weeks with 5-10-5 fertilizer. Because watermelons are more than 90 percent water, they will require lots of irrigation, especially in the first few weeks and during dry spells. A thick covering of straw mulch will help conserve moisture and provide a cushion for the melons to rest on.

Ripe melons lose their shiny appearance and take on a dull look. The spot where the melon sits on the ground should be buttery yellow, and the tendril closest to the stem should be browning or dead. Once harvested, watermelons will keep 7 to 10 days, but we’ve got a hunch that a fresh melon from your garden won’t last nearly that long.

Variety is the spice of life. So, why not add lesser-known fruit to your garden? Listen to learn about these “berry good” options: American elder, Jostaberries, Juneberries, lingonberries, and mulberries.

This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor.

 

Backyard berry growers usually direct their efforts to raising strawberries, raspberries, and blueberries but there are many less familiar berries that are packed with flavor and nutrients and are very easy to grow.  Many originated from native species and require little care other than occasional weeding and watering.

            Shad or Juneberry is an extremely hardy plant native to almost all of North America.  Its twenty-five or so species may take the form of multi-stemmed shrubs or small trees that occasionally reach 30’.

            Truly a four-season plant, shad makes a great landscape addition, especially in a wooded setting.  In early spring, flurries of small white flowers cover the branches followed by bluish to purple blueberry sized fruit.  Its blazing red, yellow, and orange fall foliage even rival the maples for attention; and it’s fissured gray bark becomes its dominant feature in winter.  The sweet juicy berries are delicious eaten out of hand or made in to pies and sauces.

            Mulberry is an often-overlooked tree that yields scrumptious inch long fruits that resemble blackberries and are used much the same way.  Be careful where you plant this medium sized tree, because the dark pigmented berries drop readily and will stain patios and outdoor furniture.

            For a low shrub or ground cover, you can’t beat Lingonberry for its beauty and flavor.  The 10” high evergreen produces masses of red berries that resemble and taste much like cranberries.  European cooks consider them indispensable for making jellies, jams, and sauces.

            If you like both currants and gooseberries for preserves, jellies, and pies, you might want to grow Jostaberries, a cross between the two.  Each plant can produce over ten pounds of mouth-watering fruits that are rich in vitamin C.  Jostaberries are quick to establish and are cold hardy to 40° below zero.

            Elderberries are an old fashioned favorite with many gardeners.  The attractive shrub has flat creamy white flowers and small deep purple berries that make a jelly as pretty as it is delicious.  The berries are a tasty addition to salads and deserts and can be brewed into a strong aromatic wine that will, indeed, give you cause to respect your elders.

            There are many other over-looked plants that will add unique colors and flavors to your berry basket.  A few to try are minty checkerberries, mountain cranberries, and tayberry, a delicious blackberry-raspberry cross.

            By planting some of these not so well known varieties, your back yard may become a berry unusual place indeed.

If you object to having brussels sprouts on the menu, perhaps you haven’t sampled those sweetened by frost and picked at the peak of freshness. For best flavor, timing is everything. Listen to learn how to grow a delectable harvest of these unusual vegetables.

This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor.

 

            If you really don’t like the taste of Brussels Sprouts, you may want to grow some in your garden this season.  This may seem some what of a contradiction but if you’ve formed your opinion about these miniature cabbages by eating sprouts bought at the supermarket, you may do an about face once you’ve sampled fresh Brussels Sprouts harvested at their peak of freshness.

            The fact is that Brussels Sprouts must experience a stiff frost or two before they develop their sweet mild flavor and are absolutely at their best when served up the same day that they are harvested.

            This unique plant that often grows to three feet tall is almost indistinguishable from cabbage in its seedling stage, but as it matures buds or sprouts form in the joints where the leaves meet the stem.  As many as a hundred of these 1”-2” tiny gems may grow on one plant.

            With Brussels Sprouts, timing is everything; depending on the variety that you choose, seeds are sown 90-120 days before the expected date of the first fall frost.  In most climates, seeds must be started indoors four to five weeks before they are set out in the spring.  Space the plants at 18” intervals in rows 24”-30” apart.  Slip a paper or aluminum foil collar around each plant to discourage cutworms.  Fertilize two to three times during the growing season with a band of 10-10-10 garden fertilizer starting when the plants are 6”-8” tall.  Occasional weeding and a mulch to conserve soil moisture is just about all of the care the plants will require.

            Brussels Sprouts are the hardiest member of the cabbage clan and may be harvested up until the ground freezes.  When the sprouts at the bottom of the plant are pea-sized, remove the lower leaves; this makes the sprouts grow faster and facilitates picking.  Start picking at the bottom of the stem and work upward as the sprouts mature.  If you are freezing your crop, you may want all of the sprouts to mature at once.  To make this happen, pinch out the leafy growing tip of each plant in early fall about six weeks before harvest.

            In cold areas, you can extend the harvest season by digging up the entire plant leaving some soil on the roots, place it in a cold frame or unheated garage and the sprouts will continue to develop well in to the winter.

Dwarf conifers make excellent additions to the landscape when added to foundation plantings, tucked into rock walls, arranged artistically in ornamental beds, or placed strategically on slopes. Listen to learn more about this multitalented group of plants.

This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor.

 

When selecting trees and shrubs for your yard, you might find that by thinking small you can beautify your property in a big way.  Dwarf conifers lend an abundance of shapes, colors, textures and sizes to the landscape and there are so many varieties that even Snow White would have a hard time keeping track of them all.  They are ideal additions to rock gardens and water features, and just right for tight areas where a larger plant would soon outgrow the space.

                        “Coles prostrate” Hemlock is a dark green spreader that can be used as a classy evergreen ground cover or a unique cascading rock garden plant.  Unlike its forest relatives, this rich green ground hugger only grows a few inches high.

If you like the traditional look of a yew hedge but don’t enjoy the pruning that they require, try using the Dwarf Japanese Yew.  They top off at 4’ to 6’, are very dense growing and have large attractive red fruit.

            Pines are among the hardiest of dwarf evergreens.  One particularly striking specimen is the Blue Shag Pine, a globe shaped plant with unusually soft blue foliage.  Its diminutive size, (eventually growing to 6’) makes it an attractive choice for a foundation planting or in a spot where space is limited.

            The Japanese Garden Juniper is a low growing mounding spreader that creates an instant Bonsai effect, making it a rock garden favorite.  Its moss-like green foliage is tinged with purple in cold weather and becomes bright green in spring.

            Dwarf Alberta Spruce is one of the best known and most loved of any little plant.  It has a natural pyramidal shape that never requires shearing.  Grow it in a container, and you will have a living Christmas tree to use year after year.

            Most Arborvitaes are green, and many will soar to 30’ or more but not yellow ribbon.  The slow growing pyramidal shrub rarely reaches 10’ and retains its golden color year round.

            A centerpiece of many gardens, Dwarf Hinoki Cypress will not go unnoticed wherever it is planted.  It grows so irregularly that no two are alike.  Its twisted fern-like dark green foliage creates a feeling of movement even on windless days. 

            Try planting a few of these mighty midgets and you might just start singing Hi Ho, Hi Ho as you go off to work in your yard.

Ferns offer a wonderful range of textures and greens for the yard and garden. You’ll find varieties from those that do well in deep shade to those that bask in full sunlight. Their cool, feathery foliage provides a charming counterpoint to riotous perennial flowers. Listen to learn more about these long-lived gems.

This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor.

 

By the time the dinosaurs evolved, ferns had already been around for two million years and were among the largest and most common plants on earth.  Most ferns that remain today are of modest size, but some tree ferns still growing in the tropics may reach 50’ or more with fronds (leaves) as long as 20’, reminding us of this plants grand past.

            As ancient as ferns are, it is remarkable how easily they fit into modern landscapes and gardens.  They are just as much at home growing in a woodland planting as they are mixed with foundation plants or providing a background for perennials.

            Ferns are great problem solvers for a variety of difficult situations.  They make an excellent ground cover for embankments that are too steep or rough to mow and many will grow in deep shade and soil too poor to support other plants.  Planted against a stonewall they form a neat mowing edge that eliminates a need for trimming, and are a natural for making a graceful transition from lawn to woods.

            Most ferns prefer a moist shaded environment but some varieties perform well in full sun.  The Hayscented Fern that grows happily along roadsides is an aggressive spreader that tolerates sun well.  It forms a thick 20” tall ground cover that has the delightful aroma of freshly mown hay.

            Another choice candidate for a sunny spot provided it has moisture is the very showy Cinnamon Fern.  It has 3’ long fronds and stalks covered with fuzzy cinnamon colored hairs.  Its autumn color is a dazzling yellow-orange that appears after the first hard frost.

            Ferns display a remarkable range of textures and colors from the tough dark green leathery looking Christmas Fern to the delicate soft feathery Lady Fern with its cool green foliage that mixes well with perennial plantings. For a real attention getter try the Japanese Painted Fern.  It has silvery green fronds that are splashed with burgundy.  This fern will grow in light shade or full sun making it ideal for a wooded planting or as a rock garden specimen.

            Ferns are very long lived, many lasting 100 years or more so when you plant one in your garden, you could be getting a frond for life.

Are your taste buds clamoring for something new and exciting? Try edible flowers! Nasturtiums, pansies, and certain other blossoms are safe to eat and will add color and spice to meals. Listen to learn more about these versatile blooms and their do’s and don’ts.

 

This segment of The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Musings podcast series was written by George and Becky Lohmiller and is read by Heidi Stonehill, an Almanac editor.

 

            The next time you gather a bouquet of flowers to dress up the dinner table, try skipping the vase and putting them right in the salad bowl.  The flowers of many of the plants in your garden are as delicious as they are beautiful and will lend new tastes, textures and a rainbow of colors to your dinner table.

            Nasturtiums are among the most enjoyed salad flowers.  Both the leaves and the orangey red blossoms provide a peppery pizzazz and a hint of watercress to any bowl of greens.  Purple and white violets, and the bright faces of pansies and Johnny Jump-ups  are a colorful complement to lettuce or spinach and make a beautiful display when molded in to gelatin salads.  Try a sprinkle of marigold petals to add a golden garnish to a potato salad or a salad of dandelion greens decorated with their bright yellow flower petals.

            Herb flowers are a great way to spice up a basic bowl of greens.  For a spicy delight try using the blossoms of chives, dill, hyssop, and mint in place of or in combination with their leaves.

            Not all flowers are edible and some are even poisonous.  Read up on the subject or talk with an experienced flower feaster before trying new or unfamiliar blossoms.  A few safe choices that are considered salad shoe-ins by the experts are honeysuckle, hollyhocks, burnet, yucca, rose, and the cucumbery tasting borage and yes, please, please do eat the daisies.

            You won’t want to shop for salad flowers at your local florist because they may have been treated with pesticides and preservatives.  There are a growing number of farm stands and farmers markets that feature organically grown flowers or you may choose to grow your own for convenience and freshness.  If you do, we suggest that you plant them out of sight behind your house so that your neighbors won’t think that you’ve gone crazy when you start pulling all of the blossoms off of your plants.