The Podcast on alanarnette.com

Ed Viesturs has joined David Scheffer's Himali gear company. I interview the pair about how they met, Ed's contribution to an updated product line, and Ed's project with Inspiration4 - the first civilian space flight in history.

University of Colorado graduate, David Schaeffer started the outdoor gear company, Himali, in 2014 along with Tendi Sherpa. Today, the Boulder, Colorado company has grown nicely and, in my opinion, is about to really take off. Ed Viesturs, known globally as an author, speaker, and the only American to have summited all 14 of the 8000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen have come together. They will introduce a new line based on Ed's input this autumn. 

I spoke with both about how they came together and their plans, and an interesting project Ed is working on, the first full civilian space travel in history, Inspiration4. Also, Dave plans to make Moon Suits!!

Climbers in the Western Cwm are extending their stays to avoid EBC with the current spat of COVID evacuations. Good weather is allowing climbers to tag Camp 3 at almost 7,000-meters. The rope fixing teams reached the South Col. I expect the summit in a few days.

With climbers enjoying excellent weather while in the Western Cwm, meteorologists are seeing a strange phenomenon - a missing jet stream. These high winds aloft are the key for summiting Everest in particular. When the jet is off the summit, the winds drop below 30 mph, the maximum most guides will let their clients climb in. When on top of the peak, which is almost all year long, the summit is too dangerous. Climbers have been known to be blown off mountain tops.

This could foretell good luck for the crowded mountain. In 2018 there were 11 consecutive days of low winds that allowed crowds to spread out. Of course, the nightmare scenario occurred in 2019 when there were only three suitable days of low winds thus hundreds of climbers were squeezed into those few days creating massive lines high on the peak.

I spoke with meteorologist Chris Tomer about the Jet Stream and other elements of mountain weather and forecasting for Everest climbers. Chris forecasts the weather for KDVR FOX-31 and KWGN Channel 2 in Denver. He also provides weather forecasts for climbers throughout the world.

The headlines for last week are COVID and record permits. Four people have been evacuated either from Everest Base Camp or very close with symptoms of COVID-19. Once in Kathmandu, they tested positive for the virus. It's a similar story for a few Sherpas. Look for the ropes to reach the summit this next week.

Without a doubt, the virus is in the Khumbu and spreading. The open question will be if it can be contained at EBC. Complicating the situation is Nepal's limitless issuance of permits, now topping 400, blasting through the 2019 record year of 382. Meanwhile, there are 40 people on the Chinese side that include 21 climbers.

While there are many books about Everest, only a few rise to a level above the rest. For me, it involves excellent storytelling, a unique point of view, a highly personal angle, and perhaps a bit of history. Well, The Third Pole by Mark Synnott ticks all these boxes.  For those who may not know Mark, he is a Noth Face sponsored athlete, New York Times best-selling author, and has also worked extensively in the film and television industry, both in front of and behind the camera.  He is a world-class big wall climber who had zero interest in ever climbing Everest. In fact, he was part of the crowd that snubbed his nose at the peak and those who attempted it. But his interest was sparked at a presentation about Mallory and Irvine and their ill-fated 1924 Everest climb. In 2019 he found himself on an Everest expedition looking for the body of Sandy Irvine and, hopefully, the Kodak camera that might solve the mystery once and for all as to if they summited.  He chronicles the story in his new book The Third Pole that is on sale now. I was fortunate to review his book a few months ago and found it to be a fascinating story that weaves history and modern-day technology to investigate the greatest mountaineering mystery ever.  Mark likes to support local bookstores and made this comment about his local bookstore in North Conway, New Hampshire, White Birch Books, .. said ”  Laura still has a stack, and can ship them anywhere in the world. She can also arrange a personalized inscription. And if she runs out, which has already happened a few times, I simply stop in and sign a few more.”  The Third Pole is available at Amazon, Barnes and Noble, Powell’s, BAM , Hudson Booksellers, Bookshop.org, IndieBound, Target , Walmart and in Audio at Apple Books and Libro.fm.

I caught up with Everest Guide Mike Hamill owner of Climbing The Seven Summits (CTSS) live at EBC to discuss Base Camp luxuries for #Everest2021.

CTSS was founded by Mike after years of serving as a lead guide for another major company. He has a loyal following of clients and has set long-term goals to be a significant player in the global mountaineering market. Mike's vision is to meet his client's needs and expectations and appears to be a leader, not a follower when it comes to base camp services. While some people may not understand this level of service at a place like Everest Base Camp, Mike feels it's entirely appropriate as he explains in the interview.

The 2021 spring Everest season continues pretty much on track in spite of a few developments. The climbing permits issued by Nepal are approaching the 2019 record numbers so look for crowds similar to 2019 in the usual spots. The weather has been pretty normal as well.

An avalanche off the West Shoulder of Everest made a direct hit on the Khumbu Icefall blocking the route on Tuesday, April 20, 2021. The Icefall Doctors suggest it will take five days to repair.

Now, Jim takes us on another journey, this time to Mt. Everest. A life-long dream, Jim starts the book remembering being at Camp 1 in the Western Cwm at 19,700-feet on Mt Everest when the 7.8 magnitude earthquake struck the region. I was a bit higher in the Cwm that day at Camp 2.  Reading Jim's description of the harrowing events, rescues, courage, and loss of life brought back vivid memories. But Jim does more than tell an earthquake story. He takes us inside his tent as he and his tentmate thought an avalanche would take their lives. He puts us in the helicopter to fly over the Khumbu Icefall and back to a decimated Everest Base Camp where almost 100 people were injured, and eventually 19 died. He deals with situations most of us will never face.  With his 2015 effort over, Jim ponders if he'll ever return to Everest or move on with life. What I enjoyed most about his book was, clearly, the mountaineering stories, but also how Jim weaved life lessons he learned from his Dad, Joe, and his Uncle Bob as a teenager painting almost anything near Concord, Massachusetts.  I won't spoil the ending of "The Next Everest," but I highly recommend buying "The Ledge" now and placing an advance order for "The Next Everest."  "The Next Everest" will be widely available on April 20, 2021, but can be pre-order now from online sources Amazon, Barnes & Noble, Tattered Cover plus your local bookstore. If you preorder from the publisher, Macmillan, where you can get a limited-edition The Next Everest mini-carabiner.

Everest Base Camp is quickly filling up. Sherpas are busy establishing and stocking Camps 1 and 2. Thus far the fixed ropes have been set to the Yellow Band around 24,000-feet. As previously noted, there are few trekkers this spring so the teahouses and trails feel empty to those I’ve spoken with. Internet at EBC is sketchy at best. There is one 40-person Chinese national team on the Tibet side, otherwise, it’s closed to foreigners. They established their base camp this past week.

I caught up with Everest Climber Eric Gran from Dingboche. This is Eric's first trip to Nepal and he describes the journey thus far for #Everest2021.