Have you ever visited a Japanese izakaya before? These lively establishments are the lifeblood of Japan’s eating and drinking scene, and provide a peak into the country’s unique social and drinking culture.
1. Irasshai! Irrasshaimase! いらっしゃい！いらっしゃいませ！
Don’t run out by the loud voices welcoming you into the izakaya! This is a typical greeting you will get when entering an izakaya. It often signifies the level of customer service you’ll get. The louder the better! Once the staff greet you, just bow your head slightly in acknowledgement and hold up your fingers to show how many people are in your party.
2. Toriazeu nama! とりあえず生！
This will make you sound like a local. It means, “A draft beer to start!” Many Japanese people – thirsty after a hard day’s work or from strolling around the busy streets – will start with a beer to quench that thirst. Most izakayas will have a “house” draft beer (e.g. Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo, Ebisu). Oh, they are all so good, though our fav is Ebisu. Some locals will only go to izakayas where their nama/draft beer of choice is on tab. You can say, “Toriaezu nama” and then hold up your fingers to show how many namas you want (as you’ve noticed, fingers to indicate quantity are quite handy)!
Toriazezu nama! A nice cold one to start
3. Otōshi お通し
There are many tourists who come to Japan and are surprised (and perhaps slightly miffed) to see a charge for otōshi on their bill at the end of their fab izakaya experience. Otōshi is basically a cover charge, which can range from 200 to 500 yen. In return for this charge, izakayas will often serve a small dish when you get settled at your table. These are usually yummy – edamame, some soy-sauce simmered delight perhaps, macaroni salad, or sometimes popcorn at more casual joints. Tip: if you don’t want the otōshi, you can sometimes decline this and get the charge waived, but most people don’t do this. Think of it as a service charge. There is no tip in Japan, so we often consider the otōshi in place of that!
4. Sumimasen! すみません！
This is a handy phrase to remember. It literally means “Sorry!” and is the way to get the server’s attention. If you need another beer or need the menu again just say, “Sumimasen!” The servers will then jaunt over to you. Some larger izakaya chains will have a handy buzzer at your table, which you can also use to call your server. It always reminds me of the episode of Curb Your Enthusiasm where Larry wanted a bell for servers. Well this is it!
5. Cash is king/queen
While Japan is beginning to catch up to the rest of the world in terms of digital payments, it is still primarily a cash-based society. There are many izakayas, especially small ones, which will only take cash. Credit card companies still charge quite a hefty percentage for services, and some izakayas just opt not to use them. Remember to have some cash on hand when you go to izakayas, and if you forget, just swing to the nearest convenience store, where there is usually an ATM.
Make sure to have some bills in hand!
6. Smoking
Smoking is now banned in most izakayas in major cities like Tokyo. However, some small eateries continue to allow smoking, and as you get further away from the capital, the most places you will find that allow you to light up. If you’re a smoker, you should look out for the small green sign that designates a smoking-only establishment. But as the times are changing, more and more restaurants and bars are now non-smoking.
7. Nomihodai 飲み放題
Nomihodai, or free-flow, all-you-can-drink plans are very popular in Japan, so if you like drinking a lot during an allotted time, then check to see if your izakaya has a nomidai plan by asking, “Nomihodai arimasuka – 飲み放題ありますか？” These plans are usually 1 or 2 hours, and the izakaya will give you a menu of drink that are on the nomihodai plan – usually draft beer, simple cocktails, and house wines. Happy hours can be harder to come by, but some izakayas do offer happy hour from their opening hour to about 6 or 7 pm.
Popular nomihodai option: lemon sour
8. Tachinomi 立ち飲み
Tachinomi are basically standing bars. After a long day at work or walking around Tokyo, the prospect of having to stand while drinking may not sound appealing, but please give it a try! You will have noticed that Japan likes to fit shops into small spaces. This means that you’ll find wonderful hole-in-the-wall joints all around Tokyo. Tachinomi are usually bustling after work with salary workers either just starting their night of drinking or finishing it off. The small quarters means that you might encounter a chummy Japanese patron wanting to make some chitchat, as it’s easier to make conversation standing within those small confines than across tables in a larger restaurant.
9. Otsumami おつまみ
Nibbles while drinking, or otsumami おつまみ, are a staple of any drinking establishment in Japan. Drinking in Japan is always paired with eating! What a delight! So you will always find something to nibble on. These are usually small dishes, like tapas. Edamame (or boiled soybeans in their pod) are the most popular otsumami. But you will also find lots of fried nibbles (french fries, fried chicken or kara-age 唐揚げ) as well as healthier options like raw cabbage or raw cucumbers with miso (soybean paste). It may sound strange, but try it!
Some typical otsumami dishes
10. Dietary restrictions
Please check out our handy translation sheet for dietary restrictions. It can be somewhat difficult to navigate izakayas when you have dietary restrictions, but there should be something for everyone! As noted under otsumami, there are quite a few vegetarian options. Also ask if they have any vegetable tempura (野菜天ぷら).
11. Okaikei お会計
You can say, okaikei when you’re ready for the bill. The global signal if signing a check usually works as well. Or the Japanese version is to cross your fingers in an X, which signifies that you are finished. No need to tip, but you may see a cover charge as we’ve mentioned in #3 (otōshi). Sometimes izakayas will just give you one total number on a piece of paper without any details. If you want to see all the details to check the bill, ask for a meisaisho (明細書) and the restaurant should oblige.
X signifies that you want the bill
12. Gochisousama ごちそうさま
Gochisousama is a typical phrase you say to the restaurant staff as you leave the restaurant. If you enjoyed your meal, please say goshisousama to the staff on your way out. They will love it! It basically means, “Thank you for the meal” and shows your appreciation. It’s a nice way to end your izakaya experience.
With these tips, we hope you visit as many izakayas as your tolerance and tummy allows! Many Japanese people will visit 2 or 3 in one night or as we call it hashigo (はしご) or barhopping!
Cheers to that! Kampai!
