After three years spent looking for stories about this incredible region of mine, coming back from a little break was never going to be easy. No matter how ahead you plan, the dread of being late or having chosen the wrong subject is always around the corner. Luckily, though, this land is so full of amazing things that you just need a bit of luck and inspiration. A while ago, as I was researching for stuff to talk about, I bumped into an article that was talking about a town in Maremma that I had heard something about a long time ago. As it's quite far from where I live I never actually visited it but then I read a couple words that almost prompted me to take the car and drive there immediately. What were those words, you might ask? Possibly the best nickname for a town I've come across in the past 10 years: "Little Jerusalem". Being an history buff I immediately started thinking about the Templar Knights, relics stolen during the Crusades but the explanation was much simpler and, possibly, more intriguing. This charming village earned its nickname by being one of the very few places where Jews expelled from Rome actually were free to live and prosper. This story was so interesting that I had to look into it, which explains why, this week, What's Up Tuscany will travel south, to the heart of Maremma, to tell you everything there is to know about Pitigliano, a tuff masterpiece of a town that has got to be seen to be believed.
If you listen to the full episode I will tell you about the many landmarks in this hilltop village, from a pretty church to a monumental fountain, from the aqueduct that was a gift from the Medici to an ancient monastery that became a fashionable palace in the Renaissance after being revamped by a famous architect. Then we will focus on the history of the Jewish community, how the ghetto grew with time and how the relationship between them and the general populace was strong enough to convince many regular families to risk their lives in order to hide their neighbours from the clutches of the Gestapo. The synagogue is still active and, even if the community is much smaller than in the past, people in Pitigliano still celebrate it by producing kosher wine and organising events to promote this interesting heritage. After some info on how to know the ghetto a bit better, I'll also point you to a couple amazing walks in the surrounding countryside that will let you know the mysterious and incredible Vie Cave, tens of metres deep man-made roads carved into stone that still baffle experts.
In the final chapter I'll provide you with plenty of tips on stuff to do, eat and drink in this part of the Maremma that has a lot of things to offer. If you know what's good for you, try a good acquacotta, the old-time soup that is part of local folklore but don't forget to try some of the sweets that are produced around here. Some, like the migliaccio or the cialdino del tufo, sound quite simple and similar to other stuff you find around Tuscany but there are a couple, from the "tortello dolce" to the "sfratto dei Goym" that you can find only in Pitigliano. We will wrap things up with two excellent local wines that are quite great and don't cost a fortune plus a bunch of events that you should sign on your calendar. The Count's Banquet in late August sounds like a very smart choice. This is not your regular Tuscany: it's a place that is at the same time very real, hearty and charming. Rather than cramming on the beach with thousands or fighting with random tourists in downtown Florence, spend some time here, in the heart of Maremma. You'll thank me later.
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LINKS TO SOURCES (ITALIAN ONLY)
https://www.expedia.it/stories/10-cose-da-vedere-a-pitigliano-e-dintorni/
https://pitigliano.org/palazzi-e-monumenti/fontana-delle-7-cannelle/
