Situated across the once idyllic now infernal MacArthur Park since 1947, Langer's Delicatessen has emerged as a symbol of what's at stake (and at pastrami) in the battle for the soul of L.A. Owner Norm Langer treats me to a #19 before letting loose on the mayor race, the deli business, the history of the neighborhood, and what it will take for the last "premier deli city in America" to survive.

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