Today I am speaking with Alexandre Gabriel. Alexandre is the founder of Maison Ferrand, Citadelle Gin, and Plantation—now Planetary—Rum. 

Expect to learn how a Burgundian farm boy turned his hand to bartending in New York and then went on to innovate across the categories of cognac, gin and rum. We take a deep dive into the production of Cognac - terroir, grape varieties, distillation, maturation, and discuss the changing market of cognac in France and abroad.

From there we turn to gin, covering the birth of Citadelle in 1996 and the challenges of establishing the world’s first modern craft gin distillery. 

The conversation then shifts to rum—Alexandre’s early encounters, the founding of Plantation, double maturation, Jamaican and Barbadian styles, muck, dunder, and the acquisition of West Indies Rum Distillery. We taste our way through the Rockley still, and high-ester ferments, and discuss geographical indications, tradition and community. 

We also discuss the decision to change the Plantation brand name to Planetary, and much more.

00:00 Introduction & Clarification on Jamaican Rum GI

05:16 Origin Stories - Childhood, Farming, Marc de Bourgogne, Growing What You Sell, Wine vs. Brandy, Bartending in NYC
16:06 Cognac - Acquiring Ferrand, The Cognac Market
18:16 The Cognac Regions, Cognac Houses, Geology & Flavour, Terroir, Yeast
30:56 Grape Varietes in Cognac - Ugni Blanc & Colombard - Acidity, Stability, Producing Seasons
33:36 Emphasis of Distillation over Fermentation
37:18 Maturation in Cognac - Coopers, Elevage, Limousin Oak, Gastronomic Approach, Trancais, Fill Strength
51:41 Tasting Ferrand 1840 - Finding old Cognac, Perception of Flavour based on Dilution, Historical Recipes, David Wondrich & Mint Juleps, Ancient Still Designs, The Evolution of Tradition
1:04:09 Dosage in Cognac - Methods, Purpose, History - Physiology of sweetness and salt perception, sugar quality
1:11:59 Changing Perceptions of Cognac - Cognac highballs, Misconceptions and Understanding
1:17:52 Creating Citadelle Gin - Gin Market in 1996, First Craft Gin Distillery of Modern Era, Growing Juniper, Legislation, Plymouth Gin, Ferran Adrià
1:32:24 Rum: Alexandre’s Early Experiences with Rum
1:34:16 Thierry Gardère and Barbancourt, buying barrels, the origins of Plantation, Navy Rum & Mr Fogg
1:42:56 Establishing the Plantation Brand - Nicolas Wine Shop Distribution, Naming the brand Plantation, First products, West Indies Rum Distillery team, Amaretto Cask Rum
1:47:04 Double Maturation in Rum - Tropical and Continental - History, Benefits
1:52:06 Jamaican Rum GI - Regulation Regarding Overseas Ageing, Myers, Captain Morgan - comparison to Single Malt Scotch
2:00:18 Clarendon & Long Pond Distilleries - Southern vs. Northern Distilleries Styles in Jamaica - Historical reasons for styles, Esters, Export
2:06:16 Muck, Dunder, Cane Vinegar & Bacteria in Rum Fermentation
2:09:12 Acquisition of West Indies Rum Distillery (WIRD) in Barbados - George Stade (Founder), Origins of NRJ
2:19:41 Stade’s Rum - Rockley Still: World’s Oldest Rum Still, Restoration, First Distillation
2:26:22 What is Barbados Rum? Varieties of Stills, History, Using Seawater in Rum Production
2:30:58 Tasting Hogo Monster - 2000ppm Esters
2:36:05 Stiggin’s Pineapple Rum, Pushing the Limits
2:38:16 Barbados Community, Growing Cane on Barbados, Curacao
2:41:49 Next Steps: Cognac grapes, Renovating more stills, Navy Rum R&D, Paraguay
2:46:41 Changing from Plantation to Planetary - Language, History, Consultation

Episode Sponsored by Fever-Tree