All Things Iceland

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.

This is a relatively short folklore story but is one that might interest anyone who plans to visit or take a dip into a hot spring while in Iceland. There is a type of bird that is said to lurk around hot springs. Over the centuries the description has been that the birds are the size of small ducks. They have mostly dark feathers with some white surrounding their eyes. They have only been spotted around hot springs, which might not seem weird.

However, the catch is that when they are approached, they dive into the boiling hot water and might not be seen again. They have been spotted in the Hveragerði region where people often go on the Reykjadalur hot spring hike.

Well, these reports are from people back in the day but it is possible that visitors are encountering them but don´t know who they are seeing. There have also been sightings of these birds flying out of hot springs. It is a bit shocking to see a bird emerging from a bubbling hot spring. Just something for you to keep your eyes open for when you visit a hot spring in this country.

According to the book “Meeting with the Monsters”, there are about 700 hot springs and pools mentioned in a document from 1910 about Iceland.

Hverafuglar – hot spring bird

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.

Back in the 1100s, Sæmundur Sigfusson was the pastor at the well known ancient manor of Oddi in South Iceland. What was different about Sæmundur is that he had an interesting past with the Devil. It is said that Sæmundur was considered to be wise and he honed his wisdom in many ways over the years. He supposedly attended the Sorbonne in Paris, which has been referred to as the “Black School” in Icelandic because it had a reputation of teaching “black” or dark arts.

In this folklore story I am sharing a series of encounters that Sæmundur had with the Devil. At the Black School that Sæmundur attended, the Devil himself was the headmaster. One strange custom after the students graduated was that the Devil would keep the last student to leave.

To the relief of the other students, Sæmundur volunteered to be the last one to leave. That day Sæmundur was wearing a big coat. When he was walking out the door, the Devil grabbed him and said “You are mine”. However, Sæmundur slipped out of the big coat that the Devil was holding and was able to escape.

After leaving the school, Sæmundur became even more adept at outsmarting the Devil. He even went as far as to get the Devil to do various tasks for him. In fact, Sæmundur was able to get the pastorship for Oddi because he tricked the Devil into helping him.

When Sæmundur heard that the position was available he was abroad. He knew that many others were applying for the job so he had to get there as quickly as he could. After thinking about what he could do, Sæmundur called upon the Devil and told him that if the Devil could swim him to Iceland without wetting my gown, I will be at your mercy.

The Devil took Sæmundur at his word and turned into a seal to take him over to Iceland. Most of the way, Sæmundur was reading the book of Psalms. As they approached the shore of Iceland, Sæmundur hit the seal on the head, which caused it to sink under water. He got wet and then swam the rest of the way to shore. Because he got wet, the deal was off and Sæmundur could go on to become the pastor of Oddi.

There are many more stories about Sæmundur and this is just a taste of his interactions with the Devil

Sæmundur supposedly wrote the history of Norwegian kings in Latin but it is said to be lost. The one way that we seem to know that Sæmundur wrote things is because he has been referenced by Snorri Sturluson.

Sæmundur fróði – Sæmundur the learned

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

The Icelandic horse is a breed like no other, with a history that is deeply intertwined with the island nation itself. Brought to Iceland by Norse settlers in the 9th and 10th centuries, these horses have remained a pure breed for over a thousand years.

The isolation of Iceland has played a significant role in maintaining the purity of the Icelandic horse. No other horses have been allowed into the country since the original stock arrived, and once an Icelandic horse leaves the island, it can never return. This strict regulation ensures the breed remains free from diseases and maintains its unique characteristics.

Icelandic horses are a national treasure, and their care and preservation are of utmost importance. If you’re lucky enough to encounter these magnificent creatures, here are some guidelines to ensure a safe and respectful interaction:

By following these guidelines, you can ensure that your interaction with Icelandic horses is both enjoyable and respectful, preserving the well-being of these incredible animals and the cultural heritage they represent.

The Icelandic horse is one of the most colorful breeds in the world. It has over 40 colours and up to 100 variations and, with only few exceptions, most of the known horse colours can be found within the breed.

Hestur – Horse

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.

There is an old Icelandic folklore tale about a ghost named Hallbera. It is said that she resides in the Scouts Cabin. She specifically occupies one of the bunks.

Hallbera is known for her mischievous nature, playing pranks on those who sleep in one of the bunks. She might push the unfortunate sleeper onto the floor or give them unsettling dreams. Any strange occurrences in the cabin are often attributed to her. Legend has it that Hallbera once lived on the land where the cabin was built. When construction began, she was forced to leave, vowing to return and haunt the place forever.

The house that Hallbera haunts is part of the Árbær Open Air Museum in the greater Reykjavík area.

The Árbær Open Air Museum vividly depicts the small-town life and environment of Reykjavík in the 19th and 20th centuries. During the summer, museum staff can be seen dressed in period clothing, actively participating in events and exhibitions that bring Reykjavík’s history to life.

Skátarnir – the scouts

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.

One summer on a farm when everyone else where collecting hay, a woman and her child, a toddler, were in the house because she was doing chores. The child was well behaved, spoke fluently and, in general, didn’t make much of a fuss. At some point in the day, the woman needed to clean the milk troughs. Instead of taking him with her, she sat him on the steps right outside of the house so she could keep an eye on him.

When she came back to the house, she spoke to her child but instead of him responding in his normal intelligible and calm voice, he screamed and squealed at her. She was shocked because her child had never behaved like that before. However, it didn’t stop there. From that moment on, the child would either scream, squeal, or act foolishly when spoken to. She was baffled by this and felt so frustrated at his drastic change.

She went to seek advice from a neighbor about this strange change in her child. In the area, this neighbor was known to be wise and educated. After telling the neighbor about the change, the wise woman asked some questions to get as much helpful information as possible.

After getting the answers, the wise older woman asked the young woman if she thinks it is possible that who she is interacting with is a changeling. Basically, that her child had been swapped out for a creature posing as her child. The young woman didn’t know how to answer that because she was not familiar with changelings and didn’t know how to identify one.

The older woman explained that the way to find out is to leave the child alone in a room with a novel item, something they have never seen before, and observe how they interact with that object. If the kid is saying strange things about the object, go to the child and whip them mercilessly until something happens. Out of desperation, the woman of the child said she will give it a try.

The young woman went back home and thought about something novel to leave her child alone with. While the kid was out of the house, she created a long pole out of wooden shafts and put a small pot on the floor. The pole reached up into the chimney, which is quite long. She then put a spoon on the end of the pole, which was dipping into the pot on the floor. It kind of looked like a super long spoon in a pot.

She gets the child and puts him in the kitchen. After leaving the child in the kitchen alone, she keeps the door cracked so she can hear what is going on. At some point the child is staring at the pot and circling around it. The shocker is that she then hears her child say “I am as old as my beard implies and I have 18 children among the elves and yet I have never seen such a long pole in a little pot.”

Upon hearing that, the woman burst into the kitchen with a really big broom and starts to mercilessly beat whoever is posing to be her child. Not surprising, the changeling is screaming to the high heavens because it hurts. Not long after the beating started, a strange woman appears in the kitchen with the woman’s actual son.

Thankfully, the child looks fine and is just as well behaved as he was in the past. The mother of the child stops beating the changeling and looks at the strange woman who brought her child back. The strange woman expresses that she has been treating the child well and it’s not nice or equal treatment that this person has been beating the butt of her husband. After saying that, the strange woman sets the child down, takes her husband and leaves.

They disappear and neither the child nor its mother see them again. It is said that the child grew up to be just fine.

Changelings in Icelandic folklore show up in many different stories. They are part of the Icelandic Huldufólk. While it wasn’t the case in this story, some of them can be evil or showcase evil behavior.

Hamskipti – changeling

Að skipta um ham – to change mode

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.

Nykur is a water horse that is a gray color but it can shape shift into other things, living or dead. However, it’s said that it can’t take the shape of lambswool or peeled barley.

In most stories, when the Nykur shows up it is normally around water. It lures people in to ride it. The Nykur specifically hangs out around rivers or lakes that are difficult to cross so that you do want to mount it. When you approach it, the Nykur acts super docile and calm. You first think it is a wild horse that is just out and about minding its own business.

The Nykur is hoping that when you see that the river or lake is hard to cross that you jump on it to get a ride across. However, as soon as you mount the horse it immediately starts to gallop into the water. In the water, it turns on its side in the deep area, which catches you off guard. The Nykur uses its body weight to sink you deeper into the water and holds you down there until you drown. Definitely not a fun experience.

One very obvious difference between a Nykur and a regular horse is that it has inverted hoofs. Yes, their hoofs are literally backward

If you have already mounted the Nykur and it starts to gallop towards the water, saying its name “Nykur” will immediately make it throw you off of its back because it hates the sound of its name. It will then head into the water without you.

One story of a child that was able to survive a Nykur is that a young girl was sleeping out in the Icelandic wilderness near some water. A Nykur saw her and started to drag her into the water. She woke up and realized what was happening. Luckily, she was able to say “Leave me alone, Nykur”. Once it heard its name, the creature released her and raced back into the water.

Another way is to make the sign of a cross on the backside of the Nykur is another way to protect yourself.

A Nykur can mate with another horse that is not one of them and create offspring. The offspring look like a regular horse. A big difference is said to be that when water is poured on that horse, it will lay on it side and let the water be poured all over it. Also, if it is going to a river or a lake, it will want to roll over on its side.

Nykur can mean neck in Icelandic but in this context it is a water demon.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This is the fourth episode for my segment “Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland”. Thank you to everyone who sent in questions. If you want to submit a question, you can do it here.

You can check out previous Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland episodes here.

Tipping in Iceland is not expected, nor is the service you get dependent on it. While you can tip if you want to, it is certainly not a part of the culture, and some might even tell you that they don’t accept tips due to workers being paid a livable wage.

My favorite high end pools and spas are:

When it comes to natural hot pools, my favorites are in the West fjords. They are as follows:

For local swimming pools, I really like Lágafellslaug in Mosfellsbær and Laugardalslaug in Reykjavík.

Because Iceland is becoming an almost cashless society, using cash is not necessary. Even really small vendors take debit and credit cards. You are more than welcome to take out Icelandic Kronar if you want to but you don’t need cash.

There is no expectation or encouragement to tip your tour guide. Of course you can if you want to but it is not a custom in Iceland to do that.

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to find the show you watched on Icelandair. You can find some shows on RÚV that have English substitles. There is also a channel on RÚV that has educational content. However, it is only in Icelandic.

Here are the Icelandic news outlets online that are in English:

Yes, I have been to Inside the Volcano some years ago. I think the experience was unique and interesting. I know it looks quite pricey, but I felt like it was worth it. The inside of the lava chamber was mind-blowing to me.

Here is one place that I found where they rent cameras.

These are my favorite vegan hot dog places:

Many Icelanders found the movie to be funny and loved that Iceland was being featured in such a big movie with big movie stars like Will Ferrell and Rachel McAdams.

Many Icelanders miss having summers or just weather in general that has temperatures above 60-degrees Fahrenheit. It is common for many of them to vacation in Tenerife or other warm locations. Because many things in Iceland are expensive, so many Icelanders will take an extra, empty suitcase for shopping. They can shop for clothes, toys, shoes, and etc.
I miss some foods and restaurants, access to certain hair products, my family and less expensive prices for pretty much anything.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.

I’m sharing about a man and a polar bear in Grímsey, which is the northernmost inhabited island in Iceland. It is the only part of Iceland that is the Arctic circle. I’ve not been there yet, but I have heard it is beautiful. This story takes place many years during a harsh winter.

On this day, no one on the island could keep a fire lit. It seems that they were in short supply of resources for it, which was major problem since it was so cold. The intense cold froze the water in the sound between mainland Iceland and the island, which made it impossible for a ship to get to the island to provide more fire.

One solution was to walk on foot to mainland Iceland to get fire but doing that is a long journey that required resilience and endurance. They decided to pick three of their strongest men to make the journey. Early one morning the men set off on their way. Most of the journey was uneventful until they are halfway across the sound. There, they encounter a big gap in the sound. They are not sure how long and wide it is but it looks like it would be difficult to jump across.

Two of the men jump and barely make it. The last guy does not feel confident he can make the jump so he just stands there. The other two who made the jump suggest that he go back to the island because they need to keep going. Not wanting to give up so easily, the guy walks along the big crack looking for a place that might be easier for him to jump across.

As the time passes, it gets darker and colder. Also, a storm rolls in as well. That storm brings southerly winds that blow warmer air, which starts to melt the ice. He gets caught on a big piece of ice that broke off in the sound between the mainland island and Grímsey. That piece of ice just drifts off in the water. Eventually, the storm stops and the piece of ice he is floating on crashes into a large ice sheet.

At this point, he is really hungry, tired and he has no idea how he will get back home. To make matters worse, he encounters a polar bear. For those that do not know, Polar Bear are normally vicious hunters and will not hesitate to kill a person or another animal if they are hungry.

Rightfully so, he is scared. The polar bear has cubs and she looks up at him as he stands there stopped in his tracks. She gives him the once over and starts to circle around him.

When it seems that he is getting stronger after a couple of days, the bear is walking along with him the bear puts her head down and gestures for him to get on her back. When he does, she shakes violently, which makes him fall off immediately.

He has no idea why she did that but just left it alone. For the next few days, she continues to gesture for him to get on her back and shakes so hard that he falls off. At night, she keeps him warm and provides nutrition At one point, he is on her back and she shakes but he is able to hold on. That is when the bear jumps into the water with him on her back and starts swimming to Grímsey.

When they arrive to the island, the man wants to show his gratitude so he gives her milk from his best cows and slaughters some of his best sheep for her to take back to share with her cubs.

She is grateful for that and she heads back to her cubs with food. Everyone in the town is shocked that he had befriended a polar bear. Right after the bear left, they see a ship in the distance and the two guys from earlier in the story were on that ship. They were bringing supplies for fire back to the island.

According to a webpage about Grímsey, about 100 people live there but it is home to about 1 million sea birds.

Ísbjörn – Ice bear is the literal translation but it is the word for polar bear in Icelandic.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

At the beginning of 2025, a new travel authorization system called ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System) will come into effect. This new requirement aims to bolster security across Europe, addressing concerns related to terrorism and the influx of migrants and refugees.

Non-EU visitors who previously didn’t need a visa will now have to apply online for ETIAS, which will screen applicants against a database for criminal activities, prior overstays in the EU, and other security issues.

While Iceland is not part of the EU, it is a member of the Schengen zone, along with countries like Norway and Switzerland. The Schengen zone has uniform rules regarding entry and stay duration.

Therefore, Iceland will implement the same ETIAS requirements as other Schengen countries. This means that if you plan to visit Iceland and then travel to other European destinations, you will need an ETIAS authorization before landing in Reykjavik.

Upon arrival, your passport will be stamped for a maximum stay of 90 days, allowing you to travel freely within the Schengen zone during this period.

As long as Iceland remains in the Schengen zone, the ETIAS rules will apply. Whether you need to apply for ETIAS depends on your nationality. Citizens of EU countries will continue to enjoy unrestricted travel across Europe, including Iceland. Non-EU citizens are divided into two categories:

The ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System) is set to launch in early 2025. Following its implementation, there will be a 180-day grace period.

During this six-month grace period, non-EU travelers who previously did not need a visa will need to fill out an ETIAS application form. This period will allow travelers to become familiar with the new requirement and give European travel authorities time to train on the new protocols and address any technical issues that arise.

After the grace period ends, all third-country nationals will be required to have ETIAS approval to enter the Schengen zone.

The ETIAS online application will ask for basic information as part of the pre-screening check. Below is the information that is said to be required:

During the ETIAS application or appeal process, you may be asked about your:

According to the website about ETIAS applications, it will only take a few minutes for an application to be approved once the payment is completed. While that sounds great, I would not leave applying for ETIAS to the last minute to avoid any possible issues.

Iceland is a treasure trove of unique geological features, offering an abundance of geysers, bubbling mud pots, volcanoes, and lava fields. The country’s geothermal activity makes it a fascinating destination, even in winter, where you can relax in hot pools amidst snow and ice.

However, summer remains the ideal time to visit, especially if you plan to rent a car and explore beyond Reykjavik and Akureyri, Iceland’s two largest cities. If you plan to rent a car, I recommend using Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.

I use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.

They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.

With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.

With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.

You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsiceland
for the discounts.

Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.

For Go Car:
When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.

For Go Campers:
Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.

And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.

Don’t miss out on Iceland’s breathtaking national parks. Þingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is known for its historical and geological significance. Vatnajökull National Park boasts Iceland’s highest mountain, largest glacier, and extensive ice fields. You can use My Iceland Map to plan out your epic adventure.

As travel regulations evolve, staying informed is crucial for a smooth and enjoyable journey. With ETIAS in place, you’ll have peace of mind knowing that your visit to Iceland and beyond is secure and well-regulated. Enjoy your adventure in this land of fire and ice!

All foreigners visiting the United States must hold a valid visa or travel authorization (ESTA) unless they are green card holders. While visas are issued by U.S. embassies, travel authorizations are applied for and issued online.

The Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) is an online platform designed to streamline the application process for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program. For those planning to travel to the USA by air or sea, obtaining travel authorization through ESTA is a mandatory step before beginning their journey.

To apply for an ESTA (Electronic System for Travel Authorization), travelers must meet specific requirements and eligibility criteria. Here’s what you need to know:

Once your ESTA application is approved, you can update it with your final itinerary details before your departure. This flexibility allows you to finalize your travel plans with confidence.

By meeting these requirements, you can ensure a smooth application process and secure your travel authorization to visit the United States under the Visa Waiver Program.

Vegabréf – passport

Áritun – Signed document

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This is part of my Folklore Friday Series, where I am sharing an Icelandic folklore story every Friday in 2024.

In the Heimskringla saga of King Olaf Tryggvason, there is a captivating tale of King Harald Bluetooth’s failed attempt to invade Iceland. According to the saga, Harald tasked a sorcerer who transformed into a fearsome whale, with finding the island’s vulnerabilities. However, each time the whale-sorcerer tried to land, he was repelled by supernatural beings known as Land Spirits, Iceland’s guardians.

The whale-sorcerer’s first attempt to land was in the Eastern Fjords, where he encountered a ferocious dragon. This dragon was so powerful that it is said that its fiery breath could make the ocean burn. To add to that, the flaps of its wings sounded like thunder. Alongside the dragon were terrifying snakes, lizards, and slithering spirits. Fearing for its life, the whale retreated farther back into the ocean.

A little shaken but still determined, the sorcerer/whale found himself in the north of Iceland, aiming to land in Eyjafjörður. Here, a massive griffin with an immense wingspan descended from the skies. Countless birds with razor-sharp talons and beaks like battle axes came with it. Together, they drove the whale-sorcerer away.

For his third attempt, the whale tried to land in the Westfjords of the country, specifically Breiðafjörður, where an enormous bull awaited him. Unlike other bulls, this one was said to have a body as solid as the earth, bronze horns, and a hide as tough as stone. To add to its insane exterior, one bellow from the bull made the mountains shake. and a body as solid as the earth, the bull’s bellowing made the mountains tremble. Not surprisingly, the whale-wizard had no intention of going head-to-head with the bull, so it fled.

In a final desperate attempt to find a vulnerable spot on the island to report back to the King, the sorcerer aimed for the Reykjanes peninsula. Here, he faced an enormous giant whose head towered above the hilltops. Armed with an iron staff and with a formidable army of other giants, the giant sent the whale-sorcerer fleeing back to the sea, thwarting King Harald Bluetooth’s invasion plans.

These guardians protect Iceland, each overseeing a quarter of the island. To this day, these Land Spirits are deeply respected and are featured on the Icelandic coat of arms, as well as the Icelandic króna coins. They symbolize the protection and prosperity of Iceland’s land and its spiritual and physical inhabitants.

Landvættir is the Icelandic word for land spirits.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega