Dr. Jennifer Smith has returned to the Canine Concierge podcast, “From A Dog’s Eye View” to discuss two misunderstood aspects of dog behavior - reactivity and aggression. Dr. Smith is a trauma-informed behavior specialist in Cleveland with extensive experience working with and training dogs. She brings her unique expertise of both humans and dogs to explain the neurological escalation cycle that drives these behaviors. She will also provide practical insights for pet parents struggling with reactive dogs. Together, we hope to help you understand what is happening in your dog’s brain and what you can do to manage and reduce the reactivity and/or aggression.

According to Dr. Smith, reactivity is the dog’s expression of how they are interpreting their environment. They assess everything they smell, see, and hear, in that order. This determines what type of reaction they will have. Reactions are the dog’s way to communicate about what they are experiencing. If they are left to express their own reaction to a particular stimulus, they can get in a rut and repeat that same reaction over and over again. It is up to us as handlers to teach them to have a different reaction.

“All reactions are communicative in nature.” Dr. Jennifer Smith

Reactivity is not always an outwardly visible and audible response, like lunging and barking. It is also a passive reaction, such as Dr. Smith’s poodle named Blue, laying in the studio with us. He was told to lie down and stay. He is communicating that he feels safe and will successfully hold that stay until he is released. If he didn’t feel safe, he would be pacing, whining, panting and possibly drooling - all signs of stress.

Aggression is the dog’s outward expression that is more severe than their initial instinct to investigate a stimulus they are unsure of. In my opinion, the most dangerous type of aggression is the quiet dog that is not showing the typical signs of an imminent attack. When dogs are improperly trained not to react to stimuli, they can suppress the typical initial signs of possible aggression such as barking and lunging. The dog will react in an explosive manner and go from the green zone to the red zone in a second.

Reactivity is not always aggression. There are many factors that play a part in a dog’s reaction to stimuli. To name a few, a dog that is in pain can have an aggressive reaction when touched, but does not mean he is aggressive. A dog that is restrained and can’t reach the desired target can have an aggressive reaction, but should not be labeled aggressive. When dogs are playing, one dog can bark and bite the other dog when there is a disagreement. This may look like an aggressive act, but it is really a form of dog communication. As Dr. Smith mentions how mama dogs scold their puppies when they start getting obnoxious, is not a form of aggression, but a way to communicate to them to settle down.

Certain breeds have traits that are more prevalent in some than in others. Some breeds are protective of their territory or owner, causing certain reactions. It is important to know these traits so you can manage them better. Just because your dog lunges and barks at other dogs, doesn’t mean that your dog is now labeled an aggressive dog. Could that dog’s reaction turn into aggression? Absolutely! Depending on the circumstances, your dog may have to defend himself from being attacked and bite the attacker. If your dog feels threatened and pressured enough by the stimulus, he can strike out. All of these factors come into play when assessing reactivity and aggression.

Terriers are known to have stronger prey drives than other breeds. Their motivation and persistence when chasing their prey escalates as they pursue their prey more intensely than a dog that is known to retrieve prey. Dogs can be trained to chase but not kill. They can also be trained to maim or kill their prey. They can be trained to pursue and alert their owner where the prey is. It is how the dog is trained to move through these escalation cycles that determines the control you have over your dog.

The average dog owner does not pursue this type of advanced training. Therefore, dogs that have not been taught the skillset to move through these drives can become so dangerous to people and animals that they become a liability to their community. This will be discussed in detail with Gary Flynn from The Dog Advocate when we talk about training hunting dogs.

It is important to point out that our reactions can be totally different than our dog’s reaction even though we are experiencing the same stimuli in our environment. Their reaction can be starkly different when the dog is experiencing something they smell, see or hear, especially for the very first time. If it becomes a pattern, make a note of your dog’s reactions as they may be triggers for certain behaviors. As “my dog trainer friend”, Gary Flynn, always comments about this subject:

One instance does not a behavior make”

This means that just because your dog had a particular reaction to something or someone once, it doesn’t mean he will always have a reaction to the same thing again. It is when the dog has this reaction several times to the same trigger that it becomes predictable, is it now an issue that needs to be addressed. For example, just because your dog backed up and was not interested in meeting a random man with a hat on, doesn’t mean that your dog is afraid of all men with hats. However, if your dog only has this type of reaction to several men with hats in different places, then you will want to take precautions when introducing him to men with hats.

For example, we humans may know that the garbage bin on the side of the road poses no threat to us. However, our dog may start growling, barking, and resisting by backing up. These are all signs of feeling uncomfortable and unsafe with the garbage bin. The worst thing we can do is force the dog towards the garbage bin while vocalizing in a frustrated tone and energy that there is nothing to be afraid of. The reaction in the dog is real and should not be discounted by the pet parent. We don’t want to make the dog feel that they cannot trust their own skillset because you are telling them they should be reacting in a different way. Instead, validate how the dog feels and then take action to fix it.

A way to help the dog is to implement what I call the distance formula - find that distance from the garbage bin where your dog can sit by your side without growling or barking. Then, step by step with substantial time in-between each step to recover, slowly approach the bin until you are right next to it. Keep your leash loose with each progression. Then, leave it up to the dog to investigate the garbage can by sniffing it. This may take several days. You can never be in a hurry when conditioning your dog to have a different reaction than their original reaction.

Why Reactivity is Common Today

Reactivity has become a buzzword in the dog community. So many more people have dogs today than when I grew up. There are many stores that are dog friendly. You can travel with your dog and stay in designated dog friendly hotels. There are patios where you can eat and have drinks with our dogs at our side. However, not every dog is as comfortable as we are with these different places. Not every business owner is a dog person. We must respect that.

Every place and every activity is not for every dog. Be aware of your dog’s limits as a social being. Don’t force them into those situations just because you want a dog that can accompany you everywhere you go. It is a balance you must strike. You don’t want to limit and restrict your dog from certain experiences. but you also don’t want to expose them to situations you know they are uncomfortable with.

Aggression is best explained by Dr. Smith’s chart below. The schematic below shows which part of the brain is activated during each cycle of escalation and what visible signs are noticeable during each phase.

The Green Zone

The part of the brain that is colored green in the schematic is the executive functioning part. It is the CEO of the brain. The dog is in a relatively calm state. They use their sense of smell to explore, their body is relaxed, their eyes are soft (the whites of their eyes are not showing), and they accept treats. This is the only zone when they can take in new information. This is the zone that is necessary for learning in my obedience classes. When I notice dogs starting to move into the yellow zone, I tell the pet parent to move their dog to a different place where the distractions aren’t as high.

In the green zone, the dog may be lying on his side. This reflects a different state of mind than when they lie in the sphinx position where they can erupt and get up very quickly. The dog will feel safe enough to engage in play. It must be noted that play can encourage a dog to move to the next levels of escalation. If you have a dog that moves through the escalation cycle rather quickly, you must know when to end the play session so that your dog does not get to the red zone.

The Yellow Zone

The yellow and orange zones are the emotional parts of the brain right above the brainstem. The dog is processing a stimulus in their environment that we refer to as a trigger. This can be another dog, person, squirrel, or anything that moves. Their head raises up, their ears are alert and they may sniff the air. When they start to focus in and stare at the trigger, the first sense that is affected is their sense of smell. They are not able to sniff and hone in on a target. You may have to repeat a command a couple of times because now they are distracted enough to not execute the command you give them on the first try. You may have to use the scent of treats right up to their nose to get their attention first and then tell them the command. They can still execute the command.

If they are getting fearful, they may sidle up to you or stand behind you. They may even jump up on you as if to solicit your help. Realize that this is happening, but remember if you reward this behavior by petting, hugging or picking them up, they will continue this until you show them how to manage their fear. The best thing to do in this instance is to acknowledge they are fearful but to not vocalize it. Just remain calm. Your dog will sense your energy through the leash.

If your dog is out in front of you, bring them in to your side and react from a position of leadership. If the dog stays out in front of you, they think they have to handle the object that is making them nervous all by themselves. This increases their anxiety. Most dogs want a leader to follow. They want someone else to make the decisions and keep them safe. When they feel they have to make the decisions, they become out of balance.

“Our number one job is to keep our dogs safe.” - Dr. Jennifer Smith

Our promise to our dogs is to keep them safe. The more you do that, the more they will trust you. If you don’t help them get out of situations that are stressful for them, if you wait for them to manage them on their own, now you become part of the reason why they started to escalate in the first place. They start seeing you as part of the trigger. If you let your dog continue to escalate, and you are not breaking that cycle, their brain cannot logically function to deescalate. They are beginning to enter the orange and possibly the red zone.

When dogs are in the yellow zone, they can still return to the green zone. The further up the escalation cycle, the harder it is to come back down. They get more protective of themselves because they are not trusting their environment. It is essential to recognize your dog’s signs when they are not at ease and are starting to escalate. You can still sway them to calm down by providing more distance between the trigger and themselves. You can also use treats to get the focus back on you and not the trigger. This is very important. Your dog should think that you are the best thing in the world to them. More valuable than any trigger. I teach this in my obedience classes. The problem is, overtime, most people abandon this skill.

In the picture below, Rosie is focused on something outside. Her tail is up, her mouth is closed, her stare is intense, and her legs are stiff. She either is about to bark or is taking a quick break from barking. She has also climbed up on the bed not only to see out the window better, but also to feel in a more dominant position to the object outside. She is in the yellow zone, but will be able to return to the green zone with some coaxing from her pet parent.

The Orange Zone

When dogs move into the orange zone, the handler must be very attentive to take action quickly so they do not escalate into the red zone. Their body is stiff and the corners of their mouth are tight. However, when your dog is in the orange zone, the last thing you are looking at is their mouth! I have seen too many times how pet parents will stay in place in front of the trigger and have their dog out in front of them while the dog is barking and lunging. They get frustrated at their dog for continuing to bark and lunge. Your objective should be to move your dog to a safer place that will calm your dog down. At this stage, they will no longer take treats. You have to physically remove them. This is when your dog can be more powerful than you and can actually take you down if not handled properly.

“Triggers are not going to remove themselves. You have to remove the dog.” - Dr. Jennifer Smith

The Red Zone

As the dog moves up the escalation cycle, the part of the brain that is activated moves further down. The brainstem is activated in the red zone. This is the fight or flight response. It is the oldest part of the brain and sometimes referred to as the caveman’s brain. Upon birth, it is an expert at what it does. The fight, flight or freeze responses are its only skills. If your dog has escalated to the red zone, there is no longer voluntary learning. Its only job is to keep itself safe. A dog’s skillset becomes very limited and will take it upon himself to attack if necessary or to run away. They may freeze, which will leave them vulnerable, but for some, their only way to cope with this situation is to freeze. No logic can be mustered up. It’s all about survival at this point.

In the picture above, the classic signs that a bite is most likely imminent: ears are drawn back, whites of eyes showing, pupils are dilated, the corners of the mouth are tight and drawn in, teeth are barred, and the paw is stiff and extended to get the person to stop manipulating them. This dog is most likely more fearful than forward moving dominant because of his position of leaning slightly backwards.

I have experienced plenty of red zone cases where the dog will attack or run away. I have seen dogs freeze because they were so scared of their environment. I have also seen dogs shutdown and freeze when their pet parent has corrected them too much with their voice and their collar. Sensitive dogs can be very quick to freeze, especially those who have experienced trauma. It takes an extremely patient handler to work with dogs like this. They have to be calm yet assertive, and not too assertive. This is a difficult lesson to teach my clients, but most have been successful. The dog can remain cautious and fearful but still live a good life.

The same effects of trauma happen in the human world. One client I had froze when his girlfriend was being attacked by their dog. Now I know why the boyfriend had that reaction. Both the boyfriend and the dog activated their caveman brain! I had to intervene to put an end to the attack. Luckily the woman had on a thick enough jacket that the dog didn’t pierce through, but the bite was vicious. He bit and thrashed her arm from side to side almost taking off her loose coat. I’m lucky I didn’t get bit.

In cases where the dog has experienced repeated trauma at a young age, the brainstem can actually grow and bump into the adjacent part squeezing out the ability of that part to develop. If that happens, then that part of the brain and neuropathways get pruned. If the dog stays in the red zone, those pathways will never develop.

Temperament Testing

Temperament testing is the functional assessment of a puppy or dog through observation. A professional will look for patterns the dog manifests when exposed to stimuli. It is not just limited to puppies. Puppies change as they mature according to their experiences. However, Dr. Smith believes that as soon as the sperm hits the egg, the temperament is born. This is why show dog breeders and service dog organizations heavily emphasize the temperaments of many generations of the male and female breeder dogs. Even though the genetic line is exemplary, each dog still requires a temperament test.

When I go to a client’s home for the first time, I start by telling them to let the dog(s) come to greet me. The client is usually worried about the dog jumping on me. I tell them that I can tell a lot about how the dog(s) behave around me. I always enter the house and just stand there without looking at or touching the dog(s). I have to make sure the client understands why I do this. Otherwise, they think I am being rude to their dog(s) by not acknowledging them.

After the greeting process, then I observe how each family member interacts with the dog and what their response is. Sometimes, I will ask the family members to leave temporarily in order to evaluate if their behavior is affected by them. I make mental notes of where the dog positions themselves in relation to myself and other family members. In a multi-dog household, I observe if there is a dominant dog and how that dog affects the behavior of the other dogs. Finally, I ask the client to show me how they feed their dog and how they walk their dog. I will also walk the dog to see how receptive he is to my energy and leadership. After all of those factors, I can begin to develop a plan to improve these behaviors and help train the dog so that everyone can live harmoniously under the same roof.

According to Dr. Smith, changing a human’s or dog’s behavior is extremely challenging. Sometimes with little to no results. It depends on how receptive and committed the human is to change. It takes consistency to stick to a rehabilitation program and knowledge of dog behavior. The motivation to change is key. It is amazing what people will put up with from their dogs. Sometimes, clients don’t even realize they can change their dog’s behavior. My success as a professional dog trainer is by proving to the client that the dog can change. I accomplish this by successfully demonstrating what they thought was impossible.

I would like to conclude this post by recapping the key takeaways in defining reactivity, aggression, and the escalation cycle. First, reactivity is simply how dogs interpret and respond to their environment. It is not always aggression. Every dog reacts to stimuli, but the key is understanding when those reactions indicate stress or fear versus curiosity or excitement.

Second, the escalation cycle shows us that dogs move through four distinct brain zones. The green zone is where voluntary learning happens. Your dog is calm, accepts treats, and responds to cues. The yellow zone is the emotional response where dogs become alert and their ability to learn diminishes. They are still able to return to the green zone.

The orange zone is also an emotional response area but more intense. Dogs are no longer exploring their environment through their sense of smell. If not removed from this zone, they can easily escalate to the final zone, the red zone. This is the fight-or-flight response, where dogs have limited options and can no longer process incoming information. Signs of aggression can be imminent if not restrained.

Third, understanding your dog’s temperament is crucial. Temperament is presented from birth. While you can’t change it, you can work with it. Some dogs are naturally more excitable, others more cautious. Knowing your dog’s baseline helps you recognize when they are escalating.

Fourth, consistency is everything. Dogs learn through patterns and repetition. If your dog reacts the same way to the same trigger every day, they are becoming an expert in that reaction. You must intervene and teach alternative responses with the help of a qualified professional trainer.

Finally, your vital role as the handler is to keep your dog safe. When your dog escalates, remove them from the triggering environment. You are their protector. Building that trust is essential for helping them feel secure.

Please remember, not every dog needs to go everywhere and do everything with you. Respect your dog’s limits while working to expand their world safely and gradually. If you are dealing with serious aggression, seek professional help immediately. Your safety and your dog’s well-being depend on it.

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