Nutrition is defined as the process of consuming, absorbing, and using nutrients from food that is necessary for growth, development, and maintenance of life. In my July 15, 2026 podcast, I provided information about what must be included in the meals we provide for our pets in order for them to survive. I like to go a step further and add food that is nutritionally more beneficial to their diet so they can not only survive but thrive and live a happy and healthy life. Of course, hereditary and environmental factors can influence the expression of diseases. However, I believe healthy nutrition can stunt and even suppress the onset of these diseases.

In part one, I focused on the four main components humans, dogs and cats need to sustain life: protein, carbs, fat, water, vitamins and minerals. If the quality or quantity of any one of these components is substandard, health issues can arise. In this episode, I will explain how this leads to an inflammatory response, which leads to an imbalance in your immune system. I will also guide you through a process you can follow in order to make the best food choices for your dogs and cats.

Over 15 years ago, I had several appointments with Dr. Debbie Decker, a holistic vet in Westlake, Ohio, to give me professional advice on what to feed my cats. As I mentioned in part one, it was because of my cats that I started to look into finding out if it was the food that was making them vomit so often.

I also started to follow a nationally renown holistic vet, Dr. Karen Becker. She has a website with frequent articles about animals - focusing especially on cats and dogs. She wrote a book which I recommend, “ REAL FOOD For Healthy Dogs & Cats”. It fine-tunes the amounts of protein, organ meat and supplements needed to prepare a balanced homemade diet for your cat or dog. I chose to embark on the journey of making my own cat food with the help of Dr. Debbie Decker because of all of the symptoms they were experiencing.

Making your own food isn’t something you can just guess and make up as you go. Your pets have certain nutritional requirements that must be met or else metabolic issues can arise that can turn disastrous. Dogs have different requirements than cats. It is important to work with a vet who can best advise you on what and how much to feed your pet. I have simply outlined what has worked for my cats and dog, but your cat or dog may have specific health issues that require additional food groups and supplements.

I remember making the switch from processed dry food, or kibble, to homemade food for my cats. I felt overwhelmed to the point where I almost gave up. I knew if I gave up, I would most likely have to deal with all the puke again! That was a big motivator for me to continue the transition. Another driving force to make the switch was learning that I can control the quality of meat I purchase that will be fed to my pets. When you purchase any kibble, unless it is labeled as “human grade”, the meat used is generally sourced from animals or animal parts that have been deemed unsuitable for human consumption under USDA regulations.

A disclaimer reminder - I am not a veterinarian or a nutritionist. The information below is a result of my research and experience transitioning my cats and dogs to a more balanced, species appropriate diet.

Let’s begin!

In part one, I ended the episode describing the importance of healthy fatty acids. I mentioned that in order to preserve the integrity of the fats, proper storage is critical. Oxidation occurs when food substances are exposed to oxygen. For example, bananas oxidize as they ripen. When you cut into a banana, the end exposed to the air will turn brown. It actually has a different taste to it.

Oxidation in pet foods causes:

* the quality of nutrients to degrade

* the foods with fatty acids to become rancid - can produce a distinct foul smell

* the development of molds and mycotoxins - dogs can pick up on the scent of molds that we cannot see or smell and may refuse their food

* insect infestations which can cause allergic reactions

Mixed tocopherols are added by pet food manufacturers to slow down the oxidation process. They are a natural form of Vitamin E. Natural tocopherols are safe and beneficial to your pet. Whereas chemical preservatives like BHA and BHT are artificial. You will see tocopherols, BHA and BHT as an ingredient on the bag or box of food for your pet. As I stated before, I prefer to provide food that doesn’t have either one of these preservatives.

Solutions to avoiding oxidation in pet food

* Store food in its original bag off the floor and inside an airtight container

* Store food for only 2-3 weeks

* Store the remainder in freezer bags in your freezer

* Look for a “Best Before” date on the unopened bag

* Don’t force your pet to eat the food if he or she refuses, especially if you have left the food uncovered overnight

* Maintain a consistent feeding schedule with your dog or cat. If they don’t eat all the food in one sitting, cover and refrigerate it. Avoid leaving out a dish of unfinished kibble

Foods Never to Feed Your Pet

* Onions - can cause anemia

* Raisins and grapes - can lead to kidney failure

* Macadamia nuts - toxic to pets

* Chocolate, especially dark chocolate - contains caffeine and theobromine which can cause heart issues. This warrants a call or more likely an emergency visit to the vet if ingested.

* Brewer’s yeast - can be allergenic

* Fish high in mercury and raw fish - be aware of bones that can pose a choking hazard. Fried and/or seasoned fish is not healthy.

The quantity of any one of these ingredients and the weight of your pet are really the key factors in these foods to avoid. If you have a medium to large sized dog, a few onions, grapes, raisins, or a milk chocolate candy bar are no reason to panic and rush your pet to the vet.

Reasons Not to Give Your Dog Peanut Butter

* Contains aflatoxins - naturally occurring mycotoxins, produced by the fungus Aspergillus, which causes cancer.

* Contains harmful fats - hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated oils (trans-fatty acids ) which cause inflammation. This is explained in more detail in the next few slides.

* Contains sugar - make sure NO xylitol is present

* Peanuts are a legume*

*Legumes are plants with a pod, i.e. dry beans, peas, chickpeas, lentils, lupine and soybeans. They contain phytates and lectins which carnivores cannot break down due to a lack of the enzyme phytase. Phytates bind with minerals like zinc, iron, calcium, and magnesium and leech them out of a pet’s body.

Just as in the foods to avoid above, it’s the dosage and size of your pet that matters. I used to give my Corgi peanut butter on a daily basis until I figured out that it caused him to vomit. Now, I just recommend almond butter to be on the safe side. A healthy alternative to peanut butter is almond butter. Almonds are a great source of Omega 3’s and a healthy fat. Almond butter is high in fat which can trigger stomach upsets or pancreatitis if given in large amounts. It can be a healthy way to help an underweight dog gain weight when fed in moderation.

Controversial Additives in Pet Food and Treats

* BHA/BHT - an antioxidant added to oils and fats to prevent oxidation. BHA has been classified as a possible carcinogen by several major health organizations. More research is needed to confirm this.

* Carrageenan - derived from specific seaweeds that may cause and induce inflammation.

* Natural Flavors - could be anything derived from plants, animals or mined sources. Always creating suspicion. However, they have to be deemed safe in order to be added to pet food.

* TBHQ - a fat preservative to increase shelf life. Used as a stabilizer for explosive compounds and to make varnishes, lacquers, and resins.

* Propylene Glycol - added to preserve moisture content. The FDA has banned it in cat food but not dog food yet.

* Propyl Gallate - a preservative which may be able to mimic the negative effects of the female hormone, estrogen. More research is necessary.

* Ethoxyquin - a chemical preservative with limited allowable uses in pet food and animal feed as an antioxidant to prevent fats and fish meal from going rancid.

** MSG is listed on the slide but I have never seen it as an ingredient in dog food or treats.

Inflammation

Inflammation is a body’s natural way to respond to infections, injuries, or ingested food and fluids. If left unchecked, it can cause long term health issues. There is acute inflammation, which is a short term injury, like a sprained ankle, that can heal back to its original state in a reasonable time. There is also chronic inflammation, which causes constant, longterm symptoms such as fatigue, mood changes, joint stiffness, digestive issues, and skin rashes.

Factors contributing to chronic inflammation:

* Incorrect choices of food for a particular species

* Poor digestion - constipation, diarrhea, bloating

* Environmental toxins - skin rashes, cancer

* Stress - overactive “fight or flight” response, adrenaline and cortisol dumps

* Imbalance of Omega 3 and Omega 6 fats - fatigue, joint discomfort, slow healing, dry skin

* Antibiotics and Steroids - affect the balance of good and bad bacteria in your gut

Examples of Inflammatory Foods for Cats and Dogs

* Added and refined sugars - sweets, fruit juice, soda, table sugar

* Legumes - chickpeas, lentils, navy beans, peas, peanuts, edamame

* Starches - potatoes, rice, oats, corn, and wheat. Excludes sweet potatoes since they are a root vegetable

* Grains - rice, corn, wheat, oats. Gluten free grains are an exception - quinoa, millet, buckwheat, amaranth, sorghum

* Toxins in tap water - PFAS (chemicals in non-stick pans), lead, arsenic, nitrates, flouride is controversial

* GMO foods (Genetically Modified Foods) - soybeans, sugar beets, corn, canola. Alternatives: organic foods, wild caught vs farm raised seafood

* CAFO Meats ( Concentrated Animal Feeding Operation) - grain-fed beef, factory-raised chicken, and pork

* Food additives - refer to list above

Another reminder that the dosage of each one of these inflammatory foods for pets and the size of the pet must be taken into account.

Immune System and Gut Health

All living beings have an immune or defense system which varies amongst species. Our gut health is comprised of the stomach, small and large intestines. It is a complex system of good and bad bacteria. It regulates digestion, produces and metabolizes vitamins, and protects the body from infection. When the immune system is working properly and fighting off infections and foreign invaders, the result is a body functioning like a well oiled machine. We all have both good and bad bacteria in our gut, but the good is supposed to ward off the onset of the proliferation of bad bacteria. Even with an optimal balance of good and bad bacteria, we will have an immunological response to diseases that we contract from our environment. Our bodies will fight that disease until the body heals and is restored to health. It’s when our bodies are constantly in a deficit of good bacteria that we may experience digestive issues, illnesses and a degradation of our overall health.

Causes of a Compromised Immune System

* Nutrition - an unbalanced diet in protein, fat, and carbohydrates

* Environment - toxins in the household, pesticides, cigarette smoke, plastics

* Emotional - fight or flight response

* Antibiotics, steroids, vaccinations, and other pharmaceuticals

Solutions for Maintaining a Healthy Immune System

* Transition to a more balanced, species appropriate diet of either fresh or raw food

* Introduce a high quality probiotic - a wide variety of different strains of bacteria

* Reduce environmental exposure to toxins - stay off of chemically treated lawns

* Reduce stress - a lot easier said than done

Benefits of a Balanced Diet

* Healthier cells - ability to fight off disease

* Healthier brains

* Stronger hearts

* Keeps extra weight off - quantity of food I feed my cat vs canned food

* Reduced chance of common health issues

* Reduced expression of genes that promote inflammation

* Lower risk of cancer

What to Look For When Choosing a Good Quality Kibble and Treats

When looking for the best, most affordable food for your dog or cat, consult www.dogfoodadvisor.com. This website was founded by a dentist, Dr. Mike Sagman, in 2008 after he lost his dog to the effects of poor quality commercial dog food. He retired in 2023 but sold his information and website to Wag! They have reviewed over 5,000 brands of dog food and rated them based on a 5 star system. They will highlight controversial ingredients and advise of any recalls on a particular brand in Canada and the United States.

When reading the ingredients of any dog or cat food, always look at the first five ingredients. They make up the largest portion of the food and are present in the greatest amounts. If there is “ chicken/turkey/lamb meal” as a top ingredient, this means that the meat has been rendered to the point where it is like a powder. The moisture and fat have been removed from the process.

Treats are just as important as the kibble. Look for single ingredient treats like dehydrated salmon, chicken or beef. Stay away from hard treats that are made with wheat. There are gluten free hard treats. Small shaped bones are easy to handle for training purposes but they may have no nutritional value. They also may contain mystery meat: “Meat and Bone Meal”. Whenever you see this as an ingredient in treats or dog/cat food, stay away from it. You don’t know what kind of meat it is.

Please keep in mind: No Dairy, No Corn, No Soy, No Legumes, and No Wheat.

Rice is a common ingredient and is frequently listed among the first five ingredients in many dog foods. Rice is a starch and a complex carbohydrate. This means that when our bodies process it, it turns into sugar. It can provide energy when broken down by the body. However, yeast consumes the sugar and if the sucrose is consumed in great amounts, it can cause yeast infections. I covered this briefly in part one when I listed symptoms caused by certain foods. The excess yeast can cause itchy skin, yeasty ear infections, and Frito smelling paws.

Some people think that brown rice is healthier for dogs than white rice. In my opinion, no matter what the color, rice is still a carbohydrate. As I mentioned before, dog and cat food are already high in carbohydrates. When rice is listed among the first five ingredients, it further increases the carbohydrate content of the food. I add peas and rice as ingredients to the five listed above to avoid when selecting a dog or cat food.

How I Finally Settled on a Diet for Ebi

When I brought Ebi home, I knew she was going to be over 100 lbs. That’s where I drew the line. I wasn’t going to cook and prepare 5-6 cups of food twice a day for her. I first tried to give Ebi Bil-Jac dog food. That’s what the breeder fed her Mom while she was pregnant. I had such great luck with it with Hank, my Corgi, that I gave it a shot with Ebi. To my surprise, I noticed that Ebi’s poop wasn’t as firm as it should be. It wasn’t mushy - it just wasn’t able to be picked up without leaving a schmear of it on the grass. I made sure she was tested for any parasites just in case that was causing her poop not to be firm. The tests were negative for parasites, so I figured it was something in the food.

The proof is in the poop!💩

I then switched to a different kibble. I liked that food because it has ancient gluten free grains in it. However, Ebi started having digestive issues. She was spitting up bile and sometimes the whole food that never got digested. That was too reminiscent of Hank’s symptoms, so I consulted Dr. Debbie Decker, a local holistic vet, for advice. She suggested The Honest Kitchen and that is what Ebi has been on for the past 6 years. I change up the protein for variety. Her diet is below. She has been very healthy (knock on wood) for 8 years and we hope to get many more years out of her! I owe part of that to her breeder and the other part to her diet.

Transitioning to New or Raw Food

A very important thing to remember when changing foods is to take at least 7-10 days to slowly transition from the old to the new food. As you slowly introduce a little of the new food, subtract that same little amount from the old. Do this for two days. If no stomach issues arise, increase a little more of the new and take away the same amount of the old. Continue this over a period of a week to 10 days until there is no longer any old food in your dog or cat’s meal.

“Start Low, Go Slow” - Dr. Karen Becker, DVM

Follow this same transition regimen if switching to raw food. However, there are guidelines to follow depending on the age and health of the cat or dog. It is strongly advised to seek the guidance of an integrative or holistic vet with experience in introducing raw food. Older pets have difficulty changing from a processed diet to a raw diet. Their digestive systems are used to digesting the processed diet. Cats are that much more challenging. It took me a lot of patience and time when I transitioned all of my cats over to a raw and cooked, prepared diet. I almost gave up. It took many days just to add a teaspoon of raw egg to their meat! Cats actually prefer cooked eggs as opposed to raw eggs.

Once you have successfully transitioned to the new food, you can change up the protein source to provide some variety to your pet’s food. For example, if you are feeding a kibble that has chicken and sweet potatoes, switch to another protein like beef and rice, as long as your dog doesn’t have any sensitivities to different proteins. If you stay in the same line of food, there should be no need to transition to the new protein source.

The Formula to Calculate How Many Calories to Give Your Cat or Dog:

Vets will frequently recommend gently cooked meats, mostly chicken, and rice after bouts of diarrhea. I prefer to use cooked white ground turkey and pumpkin - a no starch diet. White turkey is the easiest to digest. The pumpkin should be without any seasoning - organic is preferred. One teaspoon to one tablespoon of pumpkin for every 10 lbs of body weight is recommended. Start out small so you can add to the amount if needed. This is the easiest diet for the dog or cat to digest when rehabbing a sensitive stomach. To calculate how many calories your dog should consume to maintain their weight is:

Weight of dog/cat in kg (divide pounds by 2.2) X 30 + 70 = Total calories/day

For example, my dog Ebi weighs 110 lbs. (52.2 kg) X 30 + 70 = approx. 1,570 calories per day. I will adjust that depending on her activity level that day.

If I wanted Ebi to lose weight, I would use the same formula, but plug in the desired weight. For example, if I wanted her to lose 5 pounds, the formula would be: 105 lbs (48 kg) X 30 + 70 = 1,502 calories or a reduction of 68 calories. It is highly recommended to measure and count calories. Maintaining a healthy weight can also help your pet live a longer, healthier life. Please consult a vet when helping your dog lose weight. Cats cannot lose weight quickly due to their biological makeup. A vet must be consulted to ensure a safe and slow way to lose weight.

What I Feed My Dog, Ebi (110 lbs.)

Morning:

* 2 cups The Honest Kitchen dehydrated food (either grain free beef, chicken or turkey)

* 1/2 cup cooked ground meat (beef, turkey, chicken, or lamb with 1/4 tsp added salt) cooked in either olive oil or coconut oil. This is omitted on sardine day.

* ¼ cup of beef or chicken bone broth (low sodium of 8%) or Goat Milk

* On alternating days, 3 egg yolks with 2-3 sardines with skin and bones (depending on the size). Canned salmon with skin and bones can replace sardine day. I give Ebi the inner membrane peeled off of each egg shell for the benefit of its natural glucosamine.

* Supplements: A probiotic for the immune system, a glucosamine and chondroitin, a Yeast/Fungal Detox to counter all the carbs in the food, and an Omega-3 for healthy fur/skin. I can push the pill size capsules into the Honest Kitchen and then sprinkle the probiotic on top. Dr. Decker recommends placing the supplements in treats if your cat or dog won’t take them in their food.

Evening:

* 2 cups The Honest Kitchen dehydrated food

* 1/2 cup cooked ground meat

* ¼ cup beef or chicken bone broth or Goat Milk

* Supplements: glucosamine and chondroitin, Yeast Fungal Detox and Omega-3

Socks ( 9 lb. cat)

Morning:

* 1/3 cup cooked ground meat (beef, turkey, or chicken with added salt)

* 2 teaspoons raw organ meat (homemade from chicken gizzards, hearts and liver ground up by food processor)

* Supplements: ¼ tsp psyllium fiber, 250mg Taurine, 1/2 scoop probiotic

*alternating days of ¼ egg yolk with 1-2 sardines, depending on size

Evening:

* 1/3 cup cooked ground meat

* 2 tsp raw organ meat mixture

* Supplements: ¼ tsp psyllium fiber, 250mg Taurine, 1/4 tsp Bone Meal

Regardless of the dog food you choose, always follow the guidelines above in the “What to Look For When Choosing a Kibble and Treats” section when selecting a food within your budget. It is so difficult to find a kibble that doesn’t have rice, chickpeas, lentils or peas in it. Legumes are cheap crops for food manufacturers to procure and contribute to the high carbohydrate content that can cause health issues in dogs and cats. Even the top of the line dog and cat food will include them in some of their recipes. I recommend searching for that recipe and remember to:

READ THE LABEL, READ THE LABEL, READ THE LABEL!

I even go as far as telling people to read the ingredients label every time you purchase your dog or cat’s food. Food manufacturers will add or omit certain ingredients without announcing it to the public. Remember from Part One, the AAFCO does not enforce real strict rules when considering which ingredients to add or remove from dog or cat food. In 2024, the FDA has been working towards a more structured regulatory scheme with the AAFCO to be fully overseen by FDA.

Some of My Suggestions of Dog Food (in random order)

* Lotus - baked kibble with human grade ingredients

* Bil-Jac - slow-cooked, vacuum drying method. No need to transition.

* Farmina - kibble with ancient gluten free grains

* Lake Erie Pet Food - local company with home delivery

* +Primal - raw dehydrated and frozen

* Northwest Naturals - raw dehydrated and frozen

* Stella and Chewy - raw dehydrated and frozen

* A Pup Above - frozen fresh prepared meals. no need to transition.

* The Honest Kitchen - real Whole Foods gently dried to remove moisture while locking in nutrients. No need to transition.

* Open Farm - prepared frozen meals. No need to transition.

Contact Info for Recommended Holistic Vets in the Greater Cleveland Area

* Synergy Veterinary Care, LLC

Dr. Debbie Decker

29217 Center Ridge Rd.

Westlake, OH 44145

Tel. 440-499-7100

Email: [email protected]

Website: synergyvetcare.com

* Dancing Paws Animal Wellness Center

Dr. Neal Sivula

4646 W. Streetsboro Rd.

Richfield, OH 44286

Tel. 330-659-3441

Website: dancingpawsawc.com

Recommended books:

* “REAL FOOD For Healthy Dogs & Cats” by Dr. Karen Becker

* “Unlocking the Canine Ancestral Diet” by Steve Brown

I am always amazed when I browse the pet store aisles at how many new foods are available and new ways that the food is processed. There are so many more options for frozen fresh foods today than ever before. This can be a great option for either daily or occasional feedings. You don’t have to slowly transition to them since they are fresh, real food.

I realize that my suggestions of food are on the pricey side. Beware that all of the food manufacturers listed above have recipes that include ingredients that may be deemed safe for consumption but not necessarily the ingredients that are biologically appropriate for your pet. This is why reading the label and being aware that certain ingredients can cause adverse symptoms is so important. Your dog or cat may do just fine on a processed kibble. It ultimately is an experiment to find the brand of food that agrees with your pet without symptoms.

Just because a food is not on my recommended list, doesn’t mean that I wouldn’t recommend it. Hopefully I have empowered you to make a more educated decision on which food you think is best for your budget. Always seek the advice of an integrative or holistic veterinarian when making changes to your pets’ diet. I am also happy to provide a nutrition consultation. My number is below.

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Welcome to “From A Dog’s Eye View”. I’m your host Susan Coleman. Today I will be talking about a subject that overwhelms most pet parents - what to feed your dog or cat. As I am talking to you, I am sharing a power point presentation I prepared for my clients, created by Shih Ying-Fa.

This presentation will be divided into two separate podcasts. In part one, I will be sharing with you some history on how and when pet food started to be sold in stores, how it is processed, and what ingredients are mandated by the regulatory agency that oversees pet food manufacturers. In part two, which will be released in two weeks, I will help you make the best and most affordable decision on food for your dog or cat, which ingredients are healthy and which ones to avoid. I will also give you some suggestions and personal favorites, including what I feed my cat and dog.

I have to preface this presentation by disclosing that I am not a veterinarian or a certified pet nutrition specialist. However, I am a certified herbalist and can suggest herbs/supplements for various health conditions or for just maintaining optimal health.

While I was conducting my research (which is an ongoing process) about pet nutrition, it propelled me to research human food. I started looking at ingredients of the everyday food I was consuming and was shocked. I thought I was eating healthy, but I wasn’t. I took a class from a naturopath about how what we expose ourselves to, can directly affect our health. I learned about ways to use food and supplements as medicine and as an alternative to pharmaceuticals. I will share the supplements I currently give my cat and dog in part two of this presentation.

I recommend consulting a holistic or integrative veterinarian for professional advice when considering making any changes to your pet’s diet. It is wise to make sure your pet is in good health before making any drastic changes such as introducing new and/or raw food. I will briefly discuss the benefits of raw food and when and how to make that switch over. I will also provide names and contact info of two holistic vets in the Cleveland area. I have contacted both of them expressing my interest in having them as a guest, so hopefully in the near future I will be able to share their expertise.

So, let’s get started.

How To Select the Best Food For Your Pet and Why It is So Important

With so many dog and cat food brands available, choosing the right one can feel overwhelming. When talking about pet food, I feel it is important to make people aware of the following:

* the evolution of the dry food many of us feed our pets

* the regulatory commission that overseas the pet food manufacturers

* how a dog and cat’s anatomy determines what they should consume

* ingredients to avoid

* ingredients that are beneficial

My Mission

My goal is to increase your awareness of the importance of making healthy food choices for your pet so that they can not only live, but also thrive on the food you give them.

My Motivation

My presentation also addresses some cat nutrition since it was due to my cats and dog at the time that propelled me to research this broad and confusing subject. I had four cats (one is not pictured) and a dog who were all having symptoms. My cats were throwing up frequently and one of them was actually pulling out his fur because he itched so much. My dog, Hank the Corgi, would have intermittent bouts of throwing up bile and sometimes undigested kibble. Hank also would have diarrhea that didn’t even resemble diarrhea. I was getting very tired of picking up puke!

When and Why I Changed What I Feed My Pets

Every one of my pets were tested by a veterinarian for parasites and several health conditions that could cause some of these symptoms. They were all under 5 years old and every single test came back clear and free of disease. I was beginning to think that these symptoms were normal. I asked if it was food related, but I never got a definitive answer.

It was around this time, in 2016, that I started working at Petco as a dog trainer. The first question I asked the manager was “With all of the food in this store, what is the best food for my dog and cats?” The manager directed me to the aisle where the highest quality (supposedly) of food was. I tried one on Hank and within days, he had the absolute worst gas you could imagine. I know some of you listening can relate to this! There was something in that food that did not agree with Hank. This doesn’t mean that every dog who consumes that brand of food will have gas. It just means that it didn’t agree with my dog.

My life was about to change as far as what I would ultimately feed my cats and dog. There was a mandatory meeting for all of us Petco employees.with a rep from Bil-Jac dog food. The rep started describing symptoms that dogs can have that may be related to the food they eat. He asked if anyone was experiencing these symptoms with their dog. I immediately raised my hand and told the rep he was describing my dog Hank’s symptoms to the “T”.

The rep gave us some samples of food and told us that Bil-Jac is one of the rare baked dog foods on the market that you don’t have to take 10 days to transition your dog to. It is due to the lower temperature the food is baked as compared to the standard kibble most pet parents feed their dogs. You can start feeding your dog Bil-Jac dog food for their next meal and they won’t have any stomach upsets. I was too nervous to transition immediately. Instead, Hank was switched over to Big-Jac within 3 days. All of his symptoms disappeared! I must emphasize that I am referring to Bil-Jac dog food sold in a bag, not the frozen kind.

After seeing how Hank improved, it confirmed to me that there was something in the food that did not agree with him. I just couldn’t believe that dog and cat food manufacturers would put ingredients in their food that pets can’t even digest! Why don’t they have the pets well-being in mind when formulating the recipe? Hence, my extensive research and discoveries that I am sharing with you.

It got me thinking that maybe there are things in human food that make us not feel well too. I decided to get an appointment with a naturopath right down the street from me named Dr. Jane Semple. I thought I was eating healthy, but Dr. Semple recommended I start keeping track of the food I typically ate and to look up the sugar content of every item. I was shocked! It was about 3 times the daily amount one should have.

I was convinced that food really does matter. If I noticed my dog’s symptoms clearing up and even my own symptoms, there is something to say about “We are what we eat”. My mistake was trusting that food manufacturers prioritize our health and well-being over profit.

Since then, I believe pet parents can always feed their dog or cat something better than what they are conveniently giving them. It can never hurt. Real food is better than processed food. However, homemade diets need professional supervision. A lack in vitamins and minerals can cause serious health issues if you don’t know exactly what you are doing.

In part two, I will provide resources to help guide you if you decide to transition your pet to a healthier diet. I will also share with you what I currently give my dog and cat. They are both in very good health in their senior years. We all want our pets around a lot longer than their life expectancy. If feeding them healthier food makes that possible, then why not make some changes now?

The symptoms listed on this next slide and below can be attributed to underlying health conditions that are not necessarily due to dietary reasons. This is why it is highly recommended to be under the care of a veterinarian. Please refer to the podcast with Dr. Randy from Animal Clinic Northview dated May 19, 2026, “Allergies and Arthritis”. Not all allergies are food related. There can be a hereditary and/or environmental factor. Your vet can help identify the root and possible remedies. Regardless of the root of the symptoms your pet is having, it is always a good thing to give them the best food possible.

Symptoms of Food Sensitivities/Inflammation

* Itchy, flaky skin - you can see dandruff in their fur/indicates dry skin due to difficulty digesting certain ingredients in food and/or lack of healthy fats

* Hot spots - areas that have been itched so much they form sores

* Loose stools - formed but not firm or just downright mushy

* Gurgling stomach sounds - sometimes accompanied by vomiting or loose stools

* Vomiting - sometimes blown up kibble, digested food, or bile

* Gas - silent but deadly!

* Ear infections - can be caused by floppy ears that don’t get aired out/too many carbs in diet

* Eye discharge - difficulty digesting certain ingredients in food or quality of water

* Sneezing fits - same as eye discharge

* Lackluster fur (matted fur, pulling fur out) - does not shine/coarse

* “Frito” paws - pads of paws smell like fritos/yeast overgrowth

* Halitosis/gingivitis and other dental issues - can indicate dysbiosis of gut bacteria

* Stiff, arthritic joints - certain foods can cause inflammation of the joints like unhealthy fats

* Lack of energy - lack of healthy nutrition affects energy level

History of the Pet Food Industry

To fully understand the importance of selecting the appropriate food for your pet, it is helpful to explore the history of how pet food came into being, and how we transitioned from feeding table scraps to relying on commercially produced pet food sold in stores. We have to remember that pet ownership prior to World War II was utilitarian, meaning dogs had jobs to do on the farm and cats were used to keep mice out of the barns. Pets primarily lived outdoors and were given leftover table scraps and some canned foods. During WWII, tin and metal were rationed which severely impacted the canned food industry. This became an impetus for developing dry dog and cat food that I will be referring to as kibble.

Manufacturers partnered with cereal makers who had already invented shelf stable food. This was the optimal collaboration for pet food manufacturers to eventually mass produce kibble and meet the demand of the growing population of pet owners.

Soon after the war, during the late 40s and early 50s, people and their pets started to migrate to the suburbs and pet ownership started to increase. The demand for more convenient ways to feed their pets was also increasing. It is very easy to open a bag of dog or cat food and pour it into a dish for our pets. As I will be demonstrating in this presentation, convenience isn’t always the answer to a long and healthy life.

The Pet Food Industry

Today, the pet food industry is a booming business. Since 1994, sales have increased $2 to $3 billion dollars each year. As of 2025, $69.3 billion were spent on pets, of which 1/3 of it was spent on food. Of course, pet food manufacturers want to get on the band wagon to profit from this ever growing business. This means cutting corners on the cost of certain ingredients to increase profit. These shortcuts do not necessarily keep your pet’s health in mind. Certain ingredients, additives, and the process of making kibble drastically reduce the nutritional benefits. I will be detailing ingredients to avoid in part two of this podcast so that you can make the best decisions when choosing pet food.

After the war, the rendering process was developed. This is when by-products from the human food industry is recycled and used for other things. Pet food manufacturers take advantage of these products. They are cheap and readily available. Remember: these are not human grade ingredients. They are rejects from the human food supply. If the food is so contaminated, we have to trust that the USDA will regulate the manufacturers to destroy it. Otherwise, it can be used for pet food. This may include meat that doesn’t meet aesthetic standards, or internal organs or other parts that normally are not used for human food. You don’t quite know what your pet is eating. I highly recommend human grade food for this reason.

If you don’t recognize an ingredient on the label, there’s a good chance it’s not something your pet should be eating.

Understanding the Kibble Manufacturing Process

The process of creating a kibble by mixing ingredients together and forcing it through an extruder to form the kibble shape is called extrusion. A picture of an extruder is on this slide in the powerpoint presentation. The kibble is then baked at least at 400 degrees. There are several problems with extruded kibble, such as:

* mixing all the ingredients into a dough like substance makes it easier to disguise its quality.

* starch must be added so the kibble retains its shape. Starch makes the kibble harder to digest.

* fatty acids are added after the baking process in order to preserve the integrity of the fats. Kibble becomes rancid because of the added sprayed on fat within 3 weeks, if not properly stored.

* baking the kibble at such a high temperature decreases the nutritional benefits of essential vitamins and minerals.

* moisture levels required for healthy pets are very low. This is especially important in regards to cats.

Who Regulates the Pet Food Industry?

The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) is the pet food regulator for the sale and distribution of pet food and drugs. It is separate from the FDA and USDA. It is a non-profit organization that establishes the nutritional standards, ingredient definitions, and labeling guidelines for pet and animal feed in the United States. Its members consist of local, state and federal regulatory officials, and even some veterinarians. It does not test, approve, certify, or regulate the food itself.

On every package of dog and cat food, you will find listed:

* Ingredients

* Guaranteed Analysis - the breakdown in percentages of protein, fat, fiber, moisture, and sometimes taurine (a non-essential amino acid).

* Calorie content

* A statement that it is AAFCO approved

* Recommended serving size according to weight

The AAFCO does not require a standard for the types of ingredients that the manufacturers can and cannot put in their food. In fact, if an ingredient’s quantity is less than 2% of the total ingredients, it is not obligated to list that as an ingredient. In other words, your cat or dog may have a reaction to a particular brand of dog food, but not another one with the same ingredients. It is possible that an ingredient which is 2% or less is causing the symptoms. The vet may even recommend changing foods. Veterinarians can conduct an extensive allergy test concentrating on different proteins. This is what commonly causes allergic reactions.

Dietary Requirement Differences Between Humans, Dogs, and Cats

Humans are omnivores. This means we consume a variety of food from both animals and plants. We get our nutrients from protein, carbohydrates, fiber, fats, minerals, vitamins, and water. Most of us get our food from the grocery store where everything is packaged and sold to us. We have to make decisions on how much and what we consume. Dogs and cats depend on us to make those decisions. There are some very picky cats and dogs, but in my experience, most dogs eat anything! Cats are the ones that are more picky.

Dogs are scavenging carnivores. If left to fend for themselves in the outside world, they would hunt and eat mostly fish and animals. However, they also can manage to digest and derive nutrition from plant material. They can consume a vet recommended vegetarian diet in order to resolve some kind of health issue, but this should only be temporary. In addition to deriving their protein primarily from meat for their protein requirement, they also require fats, fiber, minerals, vitamins and water. They will also feed on dead carcasses.

Cats are obligate carnivores. This means that their main source of protein must be from meat or fish. They lack the necessary enzymes to digest carbohydrates. I tried giving my cats a teaspoon of a ground up homemade cooked veggie mix and they threw it up. Remember, the last thing I wanted to do was feed them something that would make them vomit! Cats require fats, fiber, minerals, vitamins, and water. They will not eat dead animals unless they are freshly killed.

Species Appropriate Diet for Dogs and Cats

Now that you know some of the dietary requirements of dogs and cats, I’m going to break down and demonstrate the differences in kibble and fresh food appropriate for their species. Ideally, their diet should be high in moisture and protein, moderate in healthy fats, and low in carbohydrates. The ancestral diet is composed of:

* 49% protein

* 44% fat

* 6% carbohydrates

* roughly 2-5% crude fiber (to be determined by a veterinarian/holistic vet)

* water - measured in ounces to equal approximately one ounce for every two pounds of your cat/dog’s body weight; for example: a 20lb. dog requires at least 10 ounces of water depending on the activity level.

Processed dry kibble consists roughly of:

* 25% protein

* 32% fat

* 43% carbohydrates

* barely 10% moisture ( this is very important when referring to cats)

As you can see, the vast differences between the ancestral diet and kibble is staggering. By eating processed kibble, dogs and cats are lacking in both protein and fat and consuming excessive amounts of carbohydrates. In my opinion, this substantial gap in what is biologically required for dogs and cats and what is found in the majority of kibble, is the cause for a variety of health issues. The same thing can be said for the disparity in human consumption of protein, fat, fiber, carbs, and water and what is recommended. We will experience health issues if we consume too many carbs. Even lack of water consumption will cause us to have symptoms. Our bodies are designed to consume certain amounts of each essential food source just like cats’ and dogs’ bodies. When we consume too much or not enough of one of these sources, we experience some kind of symptom.

Proteins

To break down the ancestral diet of cats and dogs, it is beneficial for you to know why protein, fat and carbohydrates contribute to the optimal health of your pet. Starting with proteins, they are the foundation of a carnivore’s diet. They are an integral part of every cell in the body. Proteins are necessary for the formation of cells, enzymes, hormones, ligaments, tendons, organs and protective tissue. They manufacture amino acids which are necessary for proper cell functioning. However, some essential amino acids still need to be added to a carnivore’s diet. For example, cats do not make taurine, but need it to live. Food manufacturers must add it to the food and must be supplemented if it is homemade.

Healthy Proteins for Dogs

According to your budget, the best proteins are grass-fed beef, meats with no antibiotics applied to the animal, wild caught instead of farm raised seafood, organic and cage free eggs. I go as far as to try giving my pets the highest quality meats that I can afford because whatever the animal feeds on is being consumed indirectly by us. Livestock consuming corn, wheat and soy, which are crops that are heavily doused with pesticides, can be harmful to living beings. For more information on this subject, please refer to The Center for Food Safety and research Concentrated Animal Feeding Operation (CAFO). Good sources of protein are as follows:

* grass-fed beef

* Chicken*

* Lamb*

* Turkey*

* Sardines

* Wild caught Alaskan salmon

* Eggs*

* Nuts and seeds - almonds, pecans, walnuts, sunflower and pumpkin seeds. NO macadamia nuts or peanuts.

*should be organic, cage free and antibiotic free meats and eggs

Proteins to Avoid

Just as with humans, certain ingredients can trigger negative immune responses in dogs and cats too. I recommend avoiding them all together. This way, it helps eliminate the root of particular symptoms your dog or cat may be having. These questionable ingredients are as follows:

* Dairy - many dogs are lactose intolerant due to not producing enough lactase to break down the lactose.

* Soy - a common food causing symptoms listed above due to its phytoestrogens which can disrupt hormone balance.

* Beans - legumes such as chickpeas, lentils, navy beans, peas, peanuts. Dogs and cats lack the proper enzyme to break them down

* Wheat - a common ingredient causing symptoms listed above due to an allergy or intolerance.

Two proteins that are debatable are yogurt and peanut butter. I prefer alternatives such as dairy free yogurt (made by Silk) and almond butter. I also give my pets a daily probiotic supplement which has a variety of bacteria in it instead of just the main one that is found in most yogurt brands - lactobacillus acidophilus. This way it is easier to avoid any possible symptoms from developing.

Carbohydrates

Carbohydrates are organic compounds found in both foods and tissues. When we speak of carbohydrates or carbs, we think of sugars. Starches are also considered carbs which turn into sugar. This is important when looking for pet food with few carbs. As I mentioned before, only 6% of a dog’s diet should be carbs. Not that many people realize that in the Guaranteed Analysis in your box or bag of dog or cat food, there is no category of carbohydrates. If you add up the protein, fat, fiber and moisture, the total is just over 50%. What is the rest of the percentage? Carbohydrates! Some of these are healthy carbs and some are starches that are processed by the body into sugars.

Examples of healthy carbs are:

* sweet potatoes

* pumpkin

* spinach

* carrots

* celery

* broccoli

* cooked green beans

* sprouted grains

* apples

* berries

* pineapple

* bananas

Just remember that fresh fruits and veggies can be given as a treat or in addition to your dogs’ daily meals. They are low in calories and high in nutritional value. Even if all you can afford is kibble, adding fresh fruit and veggies will always be beneficial. I try very hard not to waste any meats, fish, fruits or veggies. When I know that fruits or veggies won’t be eaten before they go bad, I will give them to my dog. She eats everything except spinach leaves!

Fatty Acids (Fats)

Fatty acids are necessary for reproduction, cell membrane synthesis, healing, healthy skin and coat, and the regulation of inflammation. There are different types of fats:

* Saturated fats - meats, tropical oils, baked goods, fast foods

* Monounsaturated fats - nuts and seeds, avocados, plant oils

* Polyunsaturated fats - salmon, walnuts, soybean and sunflower oil

* Trans Fats - fried foods, baked goods, hydrogenated oils

We all know the fats we should stay clear of, but we also must consume healthy fats for the reasons listed above. Processed dog and cat food use the cheapest products which aren’t always the healthiest products.

Healthy sources of fatty acids include:

* egg yolks, preferably raw or lightly cooked

* sardines with skin and bones

* salmon oil or canned salmon with skin

* coconut oil

There are also essential fatty acids which our body needs but cannot produce on its own. We must get them from food sources or supplements. The AAFCO requires only Linoleic acid for dogs and arachidonic acid for cats. There are dog and cat foods that add Omega-3 fatty acids to the kibble. That all sounds good, but when the kibble is baked at high temperatures, not only do the fatty acids become less beneficial, but so do the vitamins, minerals, and probiotics. They are more biologically available when added to the food before serving. Therefore, I recommend adding high quality supplements before serving them to your cat or dog. We will dig deeper into this subject in part two of this podcast.

Concerns about fatty acids in pet food

* fatty acids are very fragile and are susceptible to changes in temperature

* fatty acids become rancid when exposed to oxygen and high temperatures

* rancid fats can cause symptoms such as diarrhea, liver and heart issues, and cancer

* According to Steve Brown, an expert on pet nutrition, “No fat is better than rancid fat”.

Proper storage of your pet food is highly recommended. This will be covered in more detail in part two of this podcast. Good quality coconut and olive oil can be added to their food. I recommend staying clear of canola oil in pet food since this is inflammatory and can cause health issues. My cat and dog will eat solid coconut oil whenever I give it to them. If you are interested in doing this, please consult either me or a veterinarian.

I’m sure many cat owners have caught their cats licking the butter dish. Cats instinctively know they need fat, but they don’t know whether the butter is a high-quality or healthy source of fat. This is where it is up to the humans to provide an affordable source of fat like fish oil or sardines. Remember to always introduce anything new to cats and dogs (especially cats) a little bit at a time so as to prevent stomach upsets.

I believe that a clearer understanding of what exactly is in our food supply empowers us to make healthier choices not only for ourselves but also for our pets. A better understanding of the organization that regulates the pet food industry, what a cat’s and dog’s anatomy dictates they consume, which ingredients to avoid and which nutrient-rich ingredients to look for, can help us make the best decisions for our pets.

We all want our pets to live long, healthy lives. We also have financial limits that can restrict us from providing the highest quality of food. However, fresh food is always better than processed food. We know if we only eat fast food for every meal, we will eventually have some kind of health issue. There are still many dogs and cats that eat only processed kibble and still live beyond their expected lifespan. From my experience with my clients, they are the exception rather than the rule, especially within the past 10 years. Your veterinarian would have better statistics about this because they see many more pets than I have during this time. I also believe that kibble produced 25-30 years ago was of higher quality than much of what is available today. Modern pet foods often contain more additives, and in many cases, the quality of the ingredients has declined.

Too many pets die too soon. Whether you’re adding some fresh, real food to your pet’s kibble, feeding a high-quality diet at every meal, or simply offering healthier food occasionally throughout their life, I’m all for that!

Dogs and cats can be picky eaters. Please leave me a comment on what challenges you have experienced trying to find the right food for your cat or dog. Also, let me know what solutions you discovered by changing their food or routine.

Thanks for reading From A Dog’s Eye View! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.

The Italian Greyhound, or Piccolo Levriere, is one of the oldest dog breeds in the world. Drawings of sighthounds resembling the modern day Italian Greyhound are found on Pompeiian frescoes dating back 2000 years. They are also painted on ancient Egyptian artwork from roughly 6000 years ago. They were bred to hunt hare and rabbits, but were kept mostly as a companion dog. They were popular amongst European royalty, including Queen Victoria and King Louis XIV.

Today, Italian Greyhounds are enjoyed by thousands in the United States and around the world. They have been recognized by the American Kennel Club since 1886 and their popularity as a family pet has grown in the last five years. They are true sighthounds, but are very content with being lap dogs, provided they get enough daily exercise. Sighthounds use their keen sense of sight, speed, and strong prey drive to hunt down small animals. Please refer to my podcast with Gary Flynn where we talk about different hunting dog breeds.

Italian Greyhounds are the smallest member of the sighthound family weighing between 7 and 14 lbs. Sighthounds include well known breeds such as Greyhounds, Whippets, Afghan Hounds, Irish Wolfhounds and Salukis. All of these breeds have bodies that are built for speed with long slender legs and deep chests. The Greyhound is the fastest dog breed in the world reaching speeds of up to 45 miles per hour. The Italian Greyhound can reach up to 35 mph. They look like cheetahs running through the savanna. Whereas the Greyhound is faster than the Italian Greyhound, its endurance is not as great.

My guest, Cheryl Bendik, is a proud pet parent of two Italian Greyhounds, Mia and Luna. Cheryl was intrigued by the breed when she met two of them who belonged to her son’s girlfriend at the time. She kept wanting to borrow them until her son convinced her to get her own. Cheryl contacted a breeder but had to wait quite some time for one. In the meantime, Cheryl decided to adopt one. As fate would have it, as soon as she adopted Luna, Mia was born two weeks later! Luna is a Beagle/Italian Greyhound mix. Her most noticeable feature is her floppy Beagle ears, but she has the body of an Italian Greyhound. Mia and Luna are eight months apart and have a very close bond. When they were little, they both loved to run around and zip in and out of each other looking like a chocolate and vanilla swirl ice cream cone.

Luna was placed in a kill shelter in Columbus by a family with small children. She was then transported up to Vermilion, Ohio where Cheryl adopted her. She had a scar on her head from a previous injury and was very fearful of children and small women with blond hair. She also did not like noisy toys. She still is leary of noisy toys and young children with erratic movements. She lost her fear of small blonde women later in life. Thank goodness Luna ended up in her forever home with Cheryl!

Luna has the temperament of an Italian Greyhound and the prey drive of a Beagle. Cheryl says Luna’s nose is always to the ground like a Beagle’s and has brought home several “presents” after a romp in the backyard. Chipmunks, baby rabbits and squirrels are her preference. One day, Luna emerged from the bushes with a 5 point deer antler in her mouth. Cheryl’s daughter thought Luna had killed a deer (an impossible feat!), but it was only an antler from a deer in rut (breeding season). Cheryl kept that antler as a fond memory.

Mia enjoys chasing after small animals like her pal Luna does. She likes to catch small critters and deposit them inside the house. She also likes to birdwatch as they fly around above her. When they were younger, Mia would go tell Cheryl in her own way that Luna had escaped. Luna was notorious for running away in pursuit of a squirrel, chipmunk or rabbit, expressing her true Beagle nature. Mia would guide Cheryl to Luna. The two of them would lay down and start howling the way Italian Greyhounds do and Luna would come running back.

Common nicknames for Italian Greyhounds are “Iggy” and “IG”. Cheryl advises prospective pet parents if you don’t want a dog next to you or behind you all the time, then an Italian Greyhound is not the breed for you. They are even referred to as “Velcro Dogs”. Their sweet, gentle and loving temperament makes it very easy to cuddle up with while enjoying a favorite book.

Italian Greyhounds require a lot of exercise. Cheryl has walked Mia and Luna daily in all kinds of weather since she brought them home. Even when Cheryl was recovering from meniscus surgery, she had family members walk “the girls”. All dogs require daily walks. For some breeds, if they don’t get their walk in, and an outlet is not provided to release pent up energy, they can go a little crazy. Italian Greyhounds would fit that description.

Caring for Italian Greyhounds is fairly easy. The biggest challenge pet parents need to watch for is leg injuries, as their dogs’ legs are very thin and prone to fractures. Pet parents must ensure their dogs don’t jump from excessive heights or run on slippery surfaces.

Mia and Luna are bigger than the average size for Italian Greyhounds but still have very low body fat. This combined with their short fur makes them sensitive to cold weather. In the video of the podcast, Cheryl shows the audience the flannel coats that include coverage on their legs and boots for their paws.

Grooming and hygiene are simple. Bathing is recommended only when absolutely necessary so as not to dry out the skin with frequent shampooing. Their nails grow quickly and need to be trimmed often to prevent joint strain on their thin legs. Also, Iggy’s are susceptible to dental disease. Daily brushing and professional cleanings are highly recommended.

About 10 years ago, Cheryl started volunteering for the Italian Greyhound Club of America (IGCA). She fostered a total of at least 5 dogs, but when COVID hit, the restrictions forbade people to visit one another. During this time, Cheryl could not have inquisitive dog lovers come to her home to check out the Italian Greyhounds she was fostering. So, she continued to volunteer by making phone calls to prospective adopters, screening them to ascertain if they were good future pet parents of an Italian Greyhound.

People frequently ask me if I know anyone who is looking for a dog. I never had any luck finding a forever home for anyone, until recently. One of my friends, Dan, called me saying that his friend’s daughter had a 3 month old Italian Greyhound who was just too much for her to handle at this point in her life. She couldn’t provide the exercise and care that was needed and thought it was best to find a better home for him.

I immediately thought of Cheryl in hopes that she could connect me to someone who could help. Instead, Cheryl contacted one of her friends whom she had found an Italian Greyhound for before, just to see if he was in the market for another one. Lo and behold, he was! Within hours, the deal was sealed and Vito was on his way to his forever home soon after.

Vito is co-shared by his pet parents and currently resides in two different households with two other Italian Greyhounds named Colby and Roo. They all get along very well. They play and cuddle with each other and their owners. On weekdays, Vito accompanies Keith to work where he has his own little bed. As difficult as it must have been for the original owner to surrender Vito, she can rest assured that he is getting the best care ever. As Cesar Millan always says, “Happy Dog, Happy Human, Happy World”. Who could ask for a better outcome?

Over the years, Cheryl occasionally has met other people with Italian Greyhounds while out in public. She would exchange phone numbers with them if they were interested in getting their dogs together with other Italian Greyhound owners. Through word of mouth and referrals, this group of 20 meets every other week for play dates. However, due to some health issues “the girls” have had lately, Cheryl hasn’t been able to attend the get togethers. Dog support groups like this one are a fun way to exchange information about the breed and have the dogs interact with one another. Most purebred breeds have clubs nearby where you can meet new people. I highly recommend joining one.

Mia and Luna are considered senior dogs at 13 and 14 years old, respectively. The average lifespan of an Italian Greyhound is between 13 and 15 years old. Just within the past few years, they both started experiencing health issues. Mia was diagnosed with inflammatory bowel disease(IBS) and Luna was diagnosed with cancer in her leg. As with humans, it’s no fun getting old!

Three years ago, Cheryl was noticing that Mia was frequently having diarrhea. Her vet put Mia on prednisone. She remained on that for 3-4 months, but they weren’t seeing the results they were hoping for. Mia was also losing weight. She was already thin to begin with, so losing weight was worrisome. The vet recommended Dr. Crandell, a board-certified Small Animal Internal Medicine Specialist at MedVet in Akron, Ohio. He recommended that Mia start taking a chemotherapy drug called Chlorambucil to treat her IBS symptoms. The dosages have diminished as the years have passed but she will most likely have to remain on it for the rest of her life.

Cheryl has to be very careful what she feeds Mia. Due to her IBS condition, she can only eat a prescription diet where the protein in the food is hydrolyzed. This means that the protein is already broken down so that the dog’s immune system cannot recognize it. This prevents gastrointestinal issues. Royal Canin, Hill’s Science Diet, and Purina all have prescription formulas that your vet can recommend. Cheryl has to alert pet parents not to give Mia any treats. She can only have her diet food as treats. She can also have some fruits and vegetables as treats or mixed in with her food.

Mia gets her bloodwork done every few months to make sure certain levels have not changed. So far, the results have been relatively the same but not enough to go off the chemo drug. Cheryl adds Vitamin B12 and a supplement for liver support called Denamarin to Mia’s food. She keeps a watchful eye on Mia for any changes in her eating habits, behavior, and overall health. She keeps in close touch with her vet to make sure she is enjoying a good quality of life while managing her IBS.

Luna has had her share of health issues in her senior years, the most notable one being her cancer diagnosis. As I mentioned before, Cheryl had meniscus surgery a year ago in April and had family members and friends walk Luna and Mia while she recovered. They would come back from the walk reporting that Luna didn’t want to walk and only wanted to go back home. They thought maybe the reason she didn’t want to walk was because she was separated from Cheryl. However, they also noticed that Luna’s leg was stiffening up. By the end of April, Cheryl noticed that Luna would hold her one leg up periodically and walk on the other three legs. Now Cheryl knew there was something not quite right and had to take action.

Cheryl took Luna to the vet. After the initial visit, Luna was prescribed muscle relaxers to see if that would help, but advised to return in a week. On the second visit, x-rays were taken, but did not reveal anything. The vet recommended to get an appointment with an internist. Cheryl already knew an internist because of Mia’s IBS issues. She returned to the same internist who ordered blood work to be done. Nothing was revealed in the bloodwork. So, he recommended physical therapy.

Cheryl made an appointment with Dr. Letosky at Avon Lake Animal Clinic. She is a veterinarian who specializes in Canine Rehabilitation. Dr. Letosky observed Luna and upon that initial assessment, deduced that Luna had cancer. This was confirmed through an ultrasound which showed her muscles in her left leg were crooked and had pockets of blood that were cancerous. Cheryl noticed that the stiffest area of Luna’s leg was between the knee and elbow joints, which is where the cancer had settled. Treatment options were discussed, but amputation was recommended.

In my May 5, 2026 podcast with Dr. Randy from Animal Clinic Northview, he shares with us the predicament pet parents face when their dog or cat is diagnosed with cancer. Depending on the cancer and where it is located determines the treatment. Chemotherapy, alternative therapies, and amputation are all available options presented to pet parents. Cheryl made the decision to have the leg amputated and Luna has been cancer free ever since.

Cheryl was advised to maintain a physical therapy routine for Luna for the remainder of her life. This is an easy task to fulfill since Cheryl religiously walks Mia and Luna daily. She just has to add hills to the walk to build up Luna’s muscles. In fact, the vet told Cheryl that Luna recovered so well from the amputation because she had walked her so much before the surgery. Her muscles were already strong which helped the recovery period.

Life as a ‘tripod’ has been manageable. Since Luna expends almost three times as much energy as a quadruped, she gets warmer and tired faster than most dogs. Cheryl now has a stroller for Luna for those situations. The stroller also came in handy while Luna recovered from recent eye surgery performed by Dr. Vogel at MedVet. She had a growth removed from her eyelid due to calcium deposits on her cornea. I recently overheard someone talking to Cheryl about Luna and the person was expressing concern and sadness for Luna’s condition. Cheryl had the perfect response, “ Don’t feel sorry for her, say ‘You go girl!’ instead”

Dogs are amazing for so many reasons. Cheryl, Mia and Luna are a loving, bonded trio who take what life throws at them with amazing and admirable coping skills. I believe that owning a dog isn’t always easy and fun. Along the way, obstacles and unexpected challenges can force us to make difficult decisions. How we respond to those moments ultimately reveals our character and the depth of our commitment to our dogs. Unfortunately, some of these decisions ultimately come down to finances. However, being unable to afford an operation is not necessarily a reflection of how deeply someone loves their dog.

Thanks for reading From A Dog’s Eye View! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.

It’s springtime and that means allergy season is in full swing! The emergence of budding leaves and flowers can cause great distress to humans and dogs alike. Whereas humans tend to have runny eyes and noses with a tickle in their throat, allergies tend to manifest differently in dogs. It is common for dogs to start itching, sometimes constantly, leaving them with abrasions, and feeling downright miserable. We’ll cover how to recognize the signs, what’s changed in treatment options, and the latest immunotherapy breakthroughs that are giving dogs real relief without the side effects of old-school steroids. My guest, Dr. Randy Hutchison has some solutions for allergy sufferers that can provide relief almost immediately.

The most common allergic reaction in dogs

Allergic reactions can be caused by the environment, fleas, or food allergies. The most common reaction to all of these culprits is itching. Dr. Randy states that the location of the itching is a good indicator as to what the cause is. For example, itching from flea bites caused by the saliva in fleas, is mostly found at the base of the tail. Dogs will tie themselves into pretzels to try to reach that area. You will notice they will try to bite back there with their little incisor teeth.

When dogs lick their feet a lot or itch their nose, face, and lower legs, this usually indicates something in their environment. In springtime, pollen from budding trees falls on the grass they walk and lay in. In the fall, there are certain weeds and molds on leaves. All of these outdoor elements can cause allergic reactions. Dr. Randy can almost predict to the day when clients will bring their dogs in because they started itching a lot. Once a dog has allergies, they almost always will for the rest of their life.

Allergic reactions don’t form after the initial exposure to an irritant. In fact, Dr. Randy says if a puppy comes in for an appointment due to itching, he can start a history of the dates of the itching, but can rule out allergies as a probable cause. It takes over a year or two of exposure to an irritant for the body to react. As time goes on, the length of the allergic reaction will be longer and more pronounced.

Reverse Sneezing

Another reaction that can be caused by allergies is reverse sneezing. This is when your dog rapidly inhales air through their nose creating a honking sound. It can be triggered by excitement, prolonged tension on their collar, or allergies. It quickly subsides and the dog returns to normal breathing. The first time I experienced this with my dog Hank, I thought he was choking and couldn’t breathe and was having some kind of seizure. It was frightening to say the least.

Symptoms of food allergies

Food allergies are similar to seasonal allergies. Dogs can be allergic to certain foods, most commonly, certain proteins. They can cause dogs to itch all over their body and lick their paws. I have seen dogs’ paws that have turned raw and become a rust color because they have been licked so much. There are a lot of additives in dog food that their bodies have difficulty digesting and ultimately causing an allergic reaction. I have seen the itching subside after changing the protein source from chicken to turkey or other proteins. Prescription dog foods that hydrolyze the protein for easier digestion and relief from allergic reactions can be recommended by your vet. I will be discussing this further in a future episode concerning nutrition.

Allergy Testing and Shots

Allergy shots are available which involve injecting small amounts of specific allergens to build up tolerance. Dr. Randy states that if a client chooses this option, they have to commit to a long term plan. This is not a quick fix.

Allergy testing through blood samples and intradermal skin testing are also available. This can be costly and intradermal testing can be invasive, requiring mild sedation. This is usually done when immunotherapy drugs and protein elimination have failed. Specific blood panels can be ordered to pinpoint the irritant causing the reactions. It will test for approximately 60 different environmental factors and will identify food allergens as well. However, testing for food allergies does not yield as reliable results as environmental influences do. This type of testing and allergy shots used to be very popular before immunotherapy drugs were available.

Immunotherapy Drugs to Alleviate Allergic Reactions

The biggest advancement in veterinary medicine over the past five to ten years is immunotherapy treatments. Before then, when dogs and cats had allergic reactions, the only option was to prescribe steroids or antihistamines. Most of the time, they would stop the itching, but the side effects prevented them from being used long term. Antihistamines do not get absorbed to the level they need to be to become effective. Nowadays, two immunotherapy drugs are commonly prescribed for allergies: Apoquel and Cytopoint. They have revolutionized allergy treatment. However, certain cases still require administering steroids. Prescribing them has dramatically dropped with the introduction of immunotherapy drugs.

Apoquel is not an allergy pill. It is not a steroid or an antihistamine. It is an immunotherapy drug. It inhibits the attachment of specific molecules to receptors that trigger an itching and inflammatory response. According to Dr. Randy, it is very effective and can be prescribed to dogs 12 months and older. It can work almost immediately with little to no side effects. In fact, if it doesn’t work within approximately 48 hours, a different option will have to be explored. A higher dosage is not an option. Apoquel has also worked to relieve allergic reactions to food and proteins.

There is a misconception about Apoquel that it can cause cancer. Dr. Randy debunks this myth. Since Apoquel is an immunotherapy drug and suppresses the immune system in a particular way, it is not recommended for dogs who have been diagnosed with cancer. Their bodies need all the help they can get to fight cancer cells.

Cytopoint is an injection that is effective in eliminating the itching response and can last up to two months. Both Apoquel and Cytopoint can be stopped and started at any time that is recommended by your veterinarian. Cytopoint is different than Apoquel in that it targets a specific protein that is responsible for sending signals to the brain to stop the itching. Due to the difference in how these two immunotherapy drugs work, Cytopoint can be given to dogs diagnosed with cancer and to those with compromised immune systems.

A key takeaway when calculating the possibility to prescribe either Apoquel or Cytopoint is to ascertain the reasons for using them. It is essential to determine the root cause of the itching. Both of these drugs are very effective but costly to pet parents. Dr. Randy likes to be sure that he prescribes them for the right reasons. He believes that immunotherapy is the wave of the future for treating not just allergies, but also for treating other common conditions he sees in dogs and cats.

My dog’s history of allergic reactions

It took me a few years to realize that my Leonberger, Ebi, was allergic to something in the environment in the fall. One August, I was visiting my parents in Rochester, New York. I had been warned that pesticides had been applied to the grass in their townhouse community to kill crab grass. By the time I got back home to Cleveland, Ebi was itching almost constantly. In a few days, she stopped. I never went to the vet because it started to subside quickly. I thought maybe she had a reaction to the pesticide used to kill the crab grass.

The following year, around the same time of year, Ebi started itching again. This time it lasted longer. I noticed abrasions and scabs on her sides and belly when she would lay on her back. It went away in about a week to 10 days. I did not go to the vet this time either. Then, around the same time of year as before, I went to Rochester again and Ebi started itching so much that she could barely sleep (neither could I). I finally started to believe that she was allergic to something in Rochester. By the time I got back home, the itching subsided, but it lasted longer.

I didn’t want to put Ebi through that ever again! So, as soon as she started itching the following August or September, I took her to Dr. Randy and told him my story. He gave her a Cytopoint injection which stopped the itching almost immediately.

Just last year, I tried a supplement for seasonal allergies around mid-August until the end of September. That worked! However, I am noticing for the first time, Ebi is itching a little more than usual this spring. She is now 8 years old with an 8 year old immune system that doesn’t work as efficiently as it used to. Dr. Randy says that dogs can have allergies year round. Once they manifest symptoms, they can last longer each time. It is very rare to see dogs or cats become less allergic to things over time.

Arthritis in Dogs

Just as humans suffer from arthritis typically in their senior years, so do dogs. Arthritis in general is referred to as osteoarthritis or OA. A type of arthritis that is familiar to most of us dog lovers is hip dysplasia. This is when the ball and socket of the hip joint does not form a tight fit with enough cushion around it. Instead of rotating smoothly with movement, it is more of a pounding bone on bone action causing discomfort and inflammation.

Osteoarthritis can be caused by the following:

* Hereditary factors - large and giant breeds are more susceptible

* Strenuous exercise - repetitive jumping

* Excess weight

* Previous injury

* compensatory damage due to lessening the load on the affected joint

According to Dr. Randy, when dogs walk, they carry about 60% of their weight in the front and 40% in the back. Therefore, if a back leg or hip is hurting, more weight will be put on the front legs. Over time, this will contribute to the wear and tear on the front limbs, compounding the existing problem. As osteoarthritis progresses, the cartilage in the affected joint deteriorates causing inflammation and irritation. Pain management is critical to keeping the pain in check.

A way to confirm that a dog has arthritis is to take an x-ray. This can be a very challenging procedure that sometimes requires mild sedation. Not all dogs will lay on their side or back and be perfectly still for several seconds! Vet techs will try to keep the dog as calm and comfortable as possible. Dr. Randy believes this method of diagnosis is crucial in order to avoid prescribing medication for a condition that possibly does not exist. Certain conditions can get worse by adding incorrect treatments.

“Know what you are treating”. - Dr. Randy

Common myths that Dr. Randy hears about arthritis:

* glucosamine and chondroitin prevent arthritis

* walking your dog short distances will prevent arthritis

* arthritis can be cured

* it only affects older dogs

* a few extra pounds won’t affect the arthritis

* treating arthritis will prevent further degradation of the joints

* dogs should not exercise when diagnosed with arthritis

Osteoarthritis is a progressive, incurable disease that can affect young and old dogs alike. Treating arthritis with various medications and alternative medicine will help manage the pain associated with it. If the synovial fluid around the joint is lacking, and the cartilage is compromised, inflammation and pain will result. Therefore, managing the pain is crucial. This can be difficult to initially diagnose without x-rays since cats and dogs are good at masking their pain. However, if you notice your dog being reluctant to climb stairs, struggling to get up from lying down or being more lethargic than usual, this may indicate they are suffering from stiff, arthritic joints.

If pet parents suspect or just want to find out if their dog has arthritis, they can first seek the counsel of a veterinarian who can properly diagnose it through x-rays. One of the worst things pet parents can do is to stop taking the dog for walks and cease all activity. Regular activity like walking can strengthen the muscle around the affected joints, improve circulation around the arthritic area and nourish cartilage that exists.

It also helps maintain a healthy weight. Your veterinarian can tell you the ideal weight for your dog. You may have to start counting calories and measuring their daily food instead of just eyeballing it. A few extra pounds is more to carry around and puts more stress on the joints.

The good news is there are several options to keep your pooch comfortable:

* non-steroidal anti inflammatories such as Galliprant and Rimadyl

* immunotherapy drugs such as Librela for dogs and Solensia for cats

* alternative medicines such as acupuncture, laser therapy, water therapy, shockwave therapy, swimming, and massages

* platelet rich plasma (PRP)

* Arthramid - hydrogel injected directly into the joint

* All natural supplements including Omega-3, glucosamine and chondroitin, and MSM

When pet parents get a diagnosis before the arthritis has progressed too far, they can start managing the pain as needed with an anti inflammatory medicine. However, this is not for long term daily usage as they affect internal organs. As the arthritis progresses and noticeable symptoms appear, such as limping and favoring a particular side when lying down, an immunotherapy drug such as Librela will be recommended. This is administered by a veterinarian as a monthly shot. As with any drug, there can be possible side effects. Dr. Randy stresses the importance of confirming the diagnosis of arthritis before starting this type of treatment. The story below illustrates accurately how Dr. Randy handles arthritic dogs.

I can attest first hand to the effectiveness of Librela. Dr. Randy diagnosed my friends’ German Shepherd, Heidi, with arthritis - more specifically hip dysplasia. It was confirmed by an x-ray when she was young. It was nothing to be alarmed about, but something to keep an eye on.

Dr. Randy took another x-ray a couple years later to see if it progressed. There wasn’t a lot of difference in the hip dysplasia, which was good but later x-rays showed arthritis in various parts of her body. Heidi was able to continue her daily walks and had arranged play dates often with no noticeable discomfort.

Not until she was about 9 years old were her symptoms more obvious. She started hesitating walking up stairs, and then later injured her CCL (the equivalent of the ACL in humans). The injury was not bad enough to warrant surgery. In fact, she recovered after not being as active for a period of time. She did re-injure the same CCL and it took longer to recover. Her pet parents gave her anti-inflammatories to manage the pain.

Occasionally, I walk Heidi for my friends. I noticed the progression and how it seemed Heidi was struggling while walking. She was limping and panting from the stress and pain. That’s when Heidi’s pet parents took her back to see Dr. Randy. He suggested the Librela shot. From that point on, I notice when Heidi gets the shot, she walks more comfortably. When it is time for another monthly shot, she is more uncomfortable, so I won’t go as far as we usually do. Heidi started receiving laser treatments under the supervision of Dr. Grace Schmeiser. She was mentioned in an earlier podcast about the therapy programs offered at Animal Clinic Northview. I walked Heidi a few days ago and she lasted the entire walk like we usually do. She still limps a bit but seems to be in less pain.

Other types of therapy mentioned earlier that is offered at Animal Clinic Northview are swimming in a pool, underwater treadmill, laser therapy, shock wave therapy, and acupuncture. In addition to these modalities are supplements such as glucosamine and chondroitin, Omega-3, and MSM. Please seek the guidance of your vet or a holistic vet. I am a certified herbalist and can advise on correct dosages.

A more up-to-date way to treat arthritis is Platelet Rich Plasma or PRP. This is when blood is drawn from the dog, is centrifuged, and then injected back into the affected joint. The purpose is to reduce inflammation which helps manage the pain, improve joint mobility, and accelerate healing for injured ligaments. It is a safe alternative to medications and steroids. Your veterinarian can discuss with you if this is a good option for your dog.

Arthramid is another option for treating arthritis. It is a hydrogel that can restore the elasticity of the synovial fluid and can provide relief for up to 2 years. Again, your veterinarian will determine if your dog is a good candidate to Arthramid.

The very last option for dogs suffering from hip dysplasia is hip replacement surgery. It is difficult to find doctors who specialize in this operation. Dr. Randy will refer these patients to The Ohio State School of Veterinary Medicine. As with any surgery, there are risks involved such as infection. The rehabilitation can be challenging for the dog and the pet parents. Some pet parents who find themselves in this predicament will choose alternative methods, immunotherapy drugs, and/or supplements instead.

I would like to personally thank Dr. Randy Hutchison for once again sharing his expertise and giving us a clearer picture of what our dogs are going through every allergy season. The big takeaways: know the signs — itchy feet, rubbing faces, reverse sneezing — and know that there are real, effective options beyond steroids, including Apoquel and Cytopoint.

Dr. Randy also shares his highly proficient knowledge on how to diagnose and treat arthritis in dogs. X-rays provide the concrete evidence of the prevalence of arthritis and where it is located. There are many options to treat arthritis depending on the location and severity of the symptoms. If your dog is struggling, don't wait — talk to your vet.

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Have you ever been petting your dog and suddenly felt something — a lump, a bump, something that wasn’t there before? My returning guest, Dr. Randy Hutchison of Animal Clinic Northview, walks us through exactly what to do when that happens. From simple fatty lipomas to cancer diagnosis and cutting-edge immunotherapy treatments — this episode covers it all.

Improvements continue to be made in the rehabilitation department. Not all injuries require surgery. Animal Clinic Northview has a new and expanding rehab facility. Dr. Grace Schmeiser oversees canine patients in need of rehabilitation from arthritis discomfort, sports injuries and surgeries. Many different therapies are offered: acupuncture, shock wave therapy, laser therapy, and massages.

Dr. Randy also shares with us some new capabilities which improve the overall recovery process for canine patients. Animal Clinic Northview has equipped their ICU unit with central lines - an advanced way to administer medications quickly. They also reduce the stress and pain by allowing multiple treatments and drawing blood samples through one port.

Another improvement to the ICU is the addition of high flow oxygen. This provides more direct oxygen flow to canine patients via nasal cannulas who may be in respiratory distress. Oxygen can be delivered via these cannulas before, during, and after surgery. Patients can also receive oxygen via their state- of-the-art environmentally controlled Snyder oxygen cages. Recently, Dr. Randy shares with us how the high oxygen flow process aided in ensuring that a bulldog who came in for airway surgery received the appropriate amount of oxygen. He believes this accelerates the recovery process and promotes a swift recuperation.

Animal Clinic Northview employs a full time doctor, or hospitalist, whose sole responsibility is to oversee the ICU and make sure it runs efficiently. The ICU can accommodate up to 40 patients. This relieves the 34 veterinarians in the practice of checking in whenever they have a spare moment to visit their critically ill patients while also maintaining a heavy client workload. Having a hospitalist on duty is an excellent way to give the patients the attention they need. They also rely on the staff dedicated to working and assisting with cases that are admitted to the ICU. Dr. Randy says “From the technicians to the assistants to the kennel staff - they are really the heroes. They’re the ones that are in it minute by minute, hour by hour, taking care of these patients.”

Vets are expected to be jack of all trades. This can be very challenging. However, Dr. Randy’s staff has the freedom to choose what they would like to specialize in. He always tells his new doctors they are allowed “five No’s”. It is important to know the types of cases they are uncomfortable with and leave them to other vets who want to be treating them. He wants them to choose what they are passionate about so they become very good at what they do. This allows Dr. Randy to direct specific issues to vets who see these types of cases often.

“It’s all about putting patients in the hands that are most likely to give them a chance to help them.” - Dr. Randy

One common reason to bring your dog in for a checkup is when you notice a lump or bump. You may notice a lump while petting your dog. You may see it when they roll over. The lump could be as innocuous as a wart, a skin tag, or the result of an allergic reaction. Others could be a fatty lipoma, a sebaceous cyst or a mass. Some dogs have a predisposition to forming lumps and bumps. Certain breeds are prone to them. However, every dog is susceptible. Dr. Randy always recommends bringing the dog in to get it checked out.

Sometimes, groomers find lumps that the owner never saw or felt. Lumps can be in hard to see areas and places you don’t typically touch. For example, a groomer will feel inside a back leg while they are combing the dog’s fur or they have to shave the rear end and a lump is discovered. In my podcast about grooming, Sharyn Ugan has found lumps on dogs that the pet parents had no idea were there.

When Dr. Randy is assessing a lump or bump, he typically manipulates it with his fingers. He can feel if it is hard or soft. The dog usually does not seem to be in any discomfort. The texture and the look of the lump does not indicate whether it is benign or malignant. In fact, he has learned over the years - never assume anything.

Screening is necessary to determine exactly what the lump is. It is done with a fine needle aspirate of the lump. A needle is injected into it to draw a sample of cellular material. This is transferred onto a slide to be examined and will reveal two things immediately: whether it is benign or malignant.

The cells in the sample may be benign cystic junk aspirated from a sebaceous cyst. These lumps can fill up with cystic debris so much that they can burst. This can be painful for the dog. Once it bursts, the process of forming and filling up can resume as long as the lining inside them keeps secreting the debris. Surgical removal of the entire cyst, including the lining, may be recommended.

Another type of benign lumps are fatty lipomas. They have clear fatty cells inside them with no cellular makeup. They can grow to be huge and located in cumbersome spots on a dog’s body. In both of these types of lumps, the pet parent is advised to keep a watchful eye on them. If they change color or size quickly, it should be checked out as soon as possible.

Depending on the location and the size of the lump, surgery may be recommended. For example, if the fatty lipoma is located on the dog’s side and it bothers them when they lay down, then the pet parent may want to remove it. Dr. Randy has experienced the pet parent initially deciding not to surgically remove a decent sized lipoma, but then later changed their mind. After the removal of the lipoma, they noticed their dog moving around more freely and even acting a lot happier.

Dr. Randy and his staff are accustomed to looking at certain cells from the different types of lumps mentioned above. It’s when abnormal cells make an appearance that require the expertise of a pathologist. Animal Clinic Northview is equipped with one of Dr. Randy’s favorite instruments called a digital cytology unit. This instrument scans the slide of cellular material collected from a lump and sends it to a pathologist somewhere in the world. They will get results within hours! Before the digital cytology unit was available, results were sent to a laboratory somewhere in the U.S. and results were not available for days. The expediency of the digital cytology unit results provide comfort to the pet parents so they can start making decisions that are best for their dog.

When talking about lumps that may be malignant, it is important to understand the difference between what a cytology is and what a biopsy is. A cytology is squirting material from a lump on to a slide and determining what type of cells are present. It may not tell the doctor everything, but it may provide some clues as to what it is. If it is viewed by a pathologist who determines there are some cells that have changed, then a biopsy will be recommended. This is when the lump is surgically removed and the whole mass is sent out for pathology.

Sometimes the lump is from a family of tumors called a sarcoma. One of the characteristics of a sarcoma is they like to adhere to muscles, nerves or bones, making them very difficult to remove. They are not necessarily aggressive, but they are invasive. The decision to remove some of the sarcoma, or to possibly have to remove a limb affected by it, is a difficult one to make. It is essential to have all the facts in place so that the best decision can be made. Sometimes CT scans or ultrasounds reveal that the removal of the tumor is not advisable due to the location and what it is attached to. Dr. Randy has to have an open and honest discussion with the client as to what will be the next course of action.

As in human medicine, cancer has become an increasingly prevalent occurrence. Over the years, Dr. Randy has seen a rise not only with cancer in dogs, but also cancer in younger dogs.

“Cancer is not an old age problem”. - Dr. Randy

Dr. Randy often gets asked by clients looking for puppies if he can recommend a breed that won’t get cancer. There is breed disposition, especially in Golden Retrievers, Boxers and giant breed dogs. In fact, when Dr. Randy was in vet school, he would go to a park and watch the different breeds go by. When he would see certain breeds, he would come up with 3-5 diseases they were prone to get. However, all breeds have the possibility of getting cancer. He advises the clients to get the dog that fits their lifestyle instead of basing their decision on a hypothetical.

If all of the tests come back positive for cancer, then the decision will now be to treat it medically or surgically. Another option is to not treat the cancer and instead provide comfort to the dog through pain medications and other therapies. Treating cancer in dogs medically means to treat the patient with traditional modalities such as chemotherapy or radiation. Animal Clinic Northview does not have radiation equipment. If the client wishes to choose this option, university teaching hospitals or specialized veterinary oncology centers provide this treatment.

One thing Dr. Randy wants his clients to keep in mind when faced with this difficult decision is how to provide the best quality of life. His ultimate desire is to find the best treatment that allows the dog to still run and play and be a happy dog, even with the diagnosis of cancer. In human cancer diagnoses, the goal is to cure the cancer. As much as veterinary medicine would like that goal to be the same, most veterinarians agree they are giving the dog the best quality of life possible. Even though Dr. Randy believes dogs do better with chemo treatments than humans do, there are still side effects. This is due to dosages not being as strong and the frequency of treatments may be more spread out than those for humans.

The most common cancer Dr. Randy treats with chemotherapy is lymphoma. He will see dogs with big lymph nodes under their jaw, shoulder, or knee. The most common protocol for this type of cancer is the Wisconsin Protocol, often called CHOP. This determines the type of drugs, a schedule of frequency, and the amount of medicines the dog will receive. All of this is adjusted based on the side effects the dog may experience.

Another option to treating lymphoma besides the Wisconsin Protocol is two recent drugs available on the market. Scientists have conducted so much research in ways to combat canine lymphoma by identifying specific cells to target that are essential for fighting infection. They can also suppress the immune system’s response to cancer which can ultimately kill cancer cells and slow down the spread of them.

Tanovea is a drug to treat canine lymphoma. It is commonly recommended when the lymphoma has relapsed using standard protocols. It is an injection that is scheduled according to the veterinarian’s advice. Another drug is called Laverdia. It is administered in a convenient pill form which can be given at home. It is not chemotherapy, but works with the immune system to inhibit a specific protein, and ultimately prevents the spread of the cancer cells.

Dr. Randy believes that immunotherapies are the new age cancer therapy and will continue to improve. There already are immunotherapy drugs to successfully treat melanoma. One can hope that more solutions will be invented and approved to help our canine companions fight the increasing threat of this deadly disease.

In conclusion, don’t assume — get it checked. A simple fine needle aspirate can give you answers fast, and catching something early can make all the difference. If this episode helped you, share it with a fellow dog parent.

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Regulated hunting in the United States is a safe activity enjoyed by over 14 million adults. The Ohio Department of Natural Resources recorded almost 400,000 paid hunting license holders. This number includes hunting of birds, small animals and deer. Regulations exist to preserve, protect and control wildlife populations. Hunting can bring communities together and help feed those in need. It is a skill that can be learned through hunting clubs and trusted family members.

In Part One of the Hunting Dogs podcast, my guest, Gary Flynn, shares stories about how he learned about the many facets of hunting from family members. Not all hunters use dogs, but Gary’s initiation to the world of hunting at a young age included neighborhood and family dogs to help in the process. He was able to witness how motivated a dog can become while pursuing their prey. He also experienced a “pecking order” amongst dogs gathered under a tree with a raccoon hanging on for dear life. Everyone knew which dog had the tenacity and skills to snatch the coon out of the tree. It helped Gary learn about individual and pack dog behavior.

Living at home versus living in kennels

Hunting dogs can live in the house with their humans. Gary can’t imagine not having his dogs live in his house. He trains them with obedience skills that are a necessity when out in the field. He also makes it a priority to teach them manners so he can socialize them inside hunting clubs and with guests coming to his house.

Many hunters will keep their dogs separate from social gatherings inside the clubs. They do not go to the extent that Gary does in socializing and training his dogs. Some are of the opinion that hunting dogs will not be effective hunters if they become family dogs. Some hunters prefer to board their dogs at kennels. It provides a safe environment for hunting breeds who like to run and roam over great distances. They will climb over fences and dig their way out of a common crate. These kennels are designed with secure slats that are impossible to bend and are cemented to the ground. The boarding staff is often trained on the specific traits of the different hunting breeds. They are also exercised daily so they stay in good shape in between hunts and during the off season.

Over the past 15 years as a dog trainer, there are hunting breeds I frequently see in my obedience classes and private home sessions. I work with a lot of doodles that have either Golden Retriever or Labrador Retriever combined with a poodle, as well as many from the terrier group. It is important to remember that all three of these breeds are hunting dogs by nature. There are also breeds I have never seen before. For example, the Black and Tan Coonhound, pictured on top of the video of the podcast above, the Plott Hound or the Mountain Cur. Regardless of the type of hunting dog you may have, it is highly recommended to fulfill their physical and mental needs in order to maintain a balanced dog.

Plott Hounds

As with many hunting breeds, Plott Hounds have a unique bark that can drive a lot of families crazy. They require lots of daily exercise with plenty of space to roam. They are used primarily for hunting larger animals such as bears and boars. They are an intelligent breed which means they need to be challenged not just physically but also mentally.

As Gary mentions, some breeds like the Plott Hound can be a challenging family pet due to their high energy and strong prey drive. They can also be difficult to potty train. They may eliminate whenever and wherever they feel like it. Gary advises families with Plott Hounds to put in durable, waterproof vinyl flooring. It may take awhile to fully potty train them!

Bloodhounds

Another hunting breed that can be challenging to have as a family pet is a Bloodhound. I have only experienced one Bloodhound in my career as a dog trainer. A woman brought one to Petco for my six week obedience class. He lasted two weeks. He was already a huge dog at 10 months old, which made it difficult to control his urge to jump on everyone and everything. Petco discouraged and forbade their dog trainers from using pinch collars, but when my manager saw how out of control this dog was, he handed me one! Gary jokes about how many Bloodhounds should be in an obedience class - one! Their independent nature requires very patient and consistent training. Their intense tracking instinct sets them in a class above all others. Gary has fond memories of working search and rescue sites with a man who handled Bloodhounds.

Tracking vs Trailing

We have all seen our dogs sniffing the ground wherever they walk. If you observe your dog long enough as they are sniffing, sometimes they sniff intensely and seem to follow a path. This is called tracking. When this is done in a hunting environment, it is sometimes done as the dog drags a long leash or the handler is holding a leash. Handlers use the keen sense of smell of scent hounds to detect, follow and locate a specific scent, such as a wounded or dead deer. Most of us have seen shows on television where the scent hound is used in search and rescue missions. Handlers will have their dogs search for a scent left by footprints, blood, or broken vegetation where animals may have passed through.

Trailing dogs follow a specific scent in the air or around obstacles. They can locate a deer that may have fallen when wounded, but then got back up and kept walking. Their heads are usually level or held in the air. They are usually ahead of their handler and operate independently. If they lose the scent, they will start to circle around to find the scent again. Many dogs will be adept at both tracking and trailing to assist the hunter. Gary talks about how dogs are highly skilled at staying on the scent trail. They know that the scent is stronger on the shady side of a hill covered with dew in the morning versus the sunny side where the scent has been baked off.

Another type of hunting dog is a scent dog. Their powerful sense of smell allows them to track prey over long distances. Their alluring long ears is a characteristic that aids them in sweeping the scent of their prey towards their nose. Beagles, Bloodhounds, and Coonhounds are all scent dogs with the Bloodhound being the apex scent dog. Just look at those ears in the picture above!

Beagles make excellent hunting dogs and family pets. They are known for their nose to the ground while running approach to sniff out and direct rabbits and small game towards their hunter. They work well in a pack to flush out bunnies in the brush. Their baying (type of bark) is unique and can alert their hunters from far away. If you have ever heard a beagle baying, I think you would agree with me that it sounds like he’s being tortured. We had one in our neighborhood we called Torture Dog! However, their curious, clown-like nature makes them fun family pets. They do very well in obedience classes and can learn any skill presented to them.

When referring to hunting dog breeds, there are sight hounds like the Greyhounds, Whippets and Salukis. They rely on their sense of sight over their sense of smell to spot and chase prey. They are notorious for their incredible speed and aerodynamic build. They also make wonderful couch potato loving companions but must be socialized and exercised daily.

Training Hunting Dogs

According to Gary, the most important skill you can teach your hunting dog is the recall, or the “Come” command. Most 8 week old puppies have an innate desire to follow you around. Foster that instinct and develop it by increasing the distance between you and your puppy. At that stage, all you have to do is just look and smile at them, and they will come running to you. When they get distracted by something, go hide behind a tree not too far away. Let them look for you and use their nose to find you. When they do find you, make a big deal out of it. You don’t want to create what Gary calls a “bootlicker” - a dog that won’t wander off on their own and prefers to stay by your side.

The Recall or “Come” Command

As the dog matures, get them used to dragging a long leash around. Gary recommends a Biothane leash that won’t get tangled in bushes. This will be your tool to follow through to make sure they come to you. In the early stages of the recall on leash, keep the distance short and the distractions few. Repeat, repeat, and repeat some more. Add the command “Come” as they are in the act of running to you. Dogs associate commands with the action they are performing at that moment. Only say the command once. If they don’t come, follow through with a tug on the leash until they come to you. It is important that they come right to your feet. Finish the recall with a nice sit and the dog looking at you. Reward them with a toy or treat and lots of praise. We have to make it worth it to the dog to come to us. Have an energetic way of calling your dog’s name to you. Keep it positive. Why would a dog want to come to their handler if they are consistently being yelled at to come?

The “Leave It”/”Drop It” Commands

Another very important command to teach your hunting dog is “Leave It” and “Drop It”. Work with a trainer to help move your dog through the stages of escalation as they pursue a moving target. The dog should be able to leave or drop the lure while they are excited. This can come in handy when your dog is pursuing a skunk!

Some ideas your pet hunting dog can do to fulfill the instinct to hunt without actually hunting:

* train your dog to have a reliable, consistent recall

* Contact the American Kennel Club , NSTRA (National Shoot to Retrieve Association) or a local hunting club to attend hunting breed specific training and trials

* take them for a “sniffari” (walking on a long leash in the woods)

* play hide and seek with your dog

* set up a scent trail of hidden treats or a squirt bottle trail of pureed meat and have your dog follow the trail

* invest in a flirt pole designed to have dogs chase, catch and release a toy lure at the end of the pole (advisable to work with a trainer)

* bury a valuable treat or bone for your dog after they have chewed on it and watch them find it and dig it out (great for hunting breeds known to dig out small prey from their burrow)

* enroll in obedience classes for mental and physical stimulation throughout the dog’s lifetime

* attend pack walks in wooded areas that also do obedience skills with the pack

So many different hunting dogs make great family pets. As I mentioned in my previous podcast, it is important to know the characteristics of the breed you wish to have as a family member so that you can genetically fulfill their needs. We all can get in a rut and get lazy with our dogs. You will notice a difference in their behavior when you drain their energy with one of the many ideas mentioned above. They will be more calm and obedient. Make a commitment to your dog to walk them daily to drain their pent up energy. Do some research on the breed, join a breed specific club, and most of all, have fun with your dog!

Dogs come in all shapes and sizes. There are over 400 different breeds, but they all stem from the Canis Lupus Familiaris species - the literal translation from Latin to English meaning Dog Wolf Domestic. Different breeds were created to serve different functions for humans. For example, some were created to help farmers herd livestock back to their housing quarters. Others were developed to protect livestock from intruders. In this episode, Gary Flynn from The Dog Advocate and I will be focusing on hunting breeds.

It is difficult to quantify how many hunting dog breeds exist, however, they can be broken down into categories such as hounds, gun dogs, retrievers and terriers. They all have their specialties. The type of game you will be hunting will determine which breed you will choose. Gary is partial to German Shorthaired Pointers. They are highly intelligent, athletic and commonly known for hunting fowl. However, he has trained his dogs as versatiles: hunting fur and feathers. Gary recounts colorful stories in our podcast about hunting pheasants, turkeys, and small birds with his client’s and his own German Shorthaired Pointers. According to Gary:

“German Shorthaired Pointers stay locked in pursuit of the holy grail!”

When Gary is working with German Shorthaired Pointer puppies, their instinct to point already exists. He recounts how fun it is to observe a bunch of puppies who are all in point looking at a bubblegum wrapper, a bee, or anything that moves. This is not something that is taught. It is pure instinct. The puppies will learn as they mature to focus that instinct on birds or small animals. Pointing is how the dog communicates what is next. It is a pause before the pounce. If well trained, they will point exactly to what they found and wait for their handler to guide them to what comes next. It is a very intense and focused behavior, but Gary’s dogs will still obey commands while pointing.

When older dogs point in a group, one dog may be pointing at another dog that is pointing to even another dog who is pointing at the location of the animal. They form a chain of pointers. This is called “honoring”. The dogs who come onto the scene where a dog is in a point, respects that dog by waiting and not stealing the prey. This prevents premature pursuit of the prey and demonstrates the discipline required to avoid chaos and an inefficient hunt. As the hunters approach the group, they must assess what they have come upon. They are able to handle the situation without interference from the dogs.

Please keep in mind that the Ohio Department of Natural Resources Division of Wildlife (ODNR) oversees hunting and fishing by issuing licenses, establishing regulations and managing wildlife populations. Game wardens ensure laws are enforced. This is to prevent extinction of certain species and people shooting at game from their cars, etc. Gary mentions there is etiquette to follow when hunting. For example, it is unethical to shoot at birds that are out of range which can only wound and not kill. Suffering of an animal should be avoided. The mission statement of ODNR is:

“To ensure a balance between the wise use and protection of our natural resources for the benefit of all.”

Before I elaborate on the different hunting breeds Gary and I discussed, I would like to address the topic of hunting in general. Some people may not want to listen or read this post because it has to do with the demise of living beings. As an experienced hunter, Gary has observed time and time again how matter of fact dogs are about death. There is no remorse. The only emotion you could attach to the experience is gratification. They are satisfying an instinct. Sometimes, the dogs will flip the dead animal up in the air just to see if they can do it all over again. They couldn’t be happier.

We have to remember, before our meat was already wrapped in cellophane to be sold in a grocery store, hunters had to go out and lure, trap, kill and gut animals daily. We all have the instinct to hunt. That means when we are forced to, we will try to live off the vegetables and fruit of the land and/or kill other animals in order to survive. A way we can simulate that instinct to hunt is to shop. The thrill of finding exactly what we are looking for is a form of hunting. We are excited when we find what we were looking for and we are disappointed when we don’t. This can result in pure exhaustion too!

It is us humans who get in the way of our dogs doing what dogs are born to do. So often I have heard clients tell me similar stories about how they punished their dog for digging a hole to catch and kill their favorite chipmunk named Chippie. The dog had no emotional attachment to “Chippie” and couldn’t logically reason with themselves to not kill it just because you loved watching it frolic around your backyard. Pet parents must ask themselves if they are positively or negatively reacting to their dog when they are fulfilling the instinct to hunt. If they do not provide the structure and environment to fulfill these needs, adverse behaviors can arise. Gary drills in his client’s heads:

“Stay out of the way of your dog and don’t interrupt the hunt”.

Gary talks about how dogs feel when it’s an “off day” when the hunters are unable to find what they were looking for. It’s just like going fishing and the fish aren’t biting that day. If the dog doesn’t get rewarded with the hunt, Gary notices their behavior change. They actually seem to sulk and mope around.

You always want to set the dog up for success no matter what skill you are teaching them. When Gary is working with puppies, he always ends a hunting session on a positive note. If nothing was caught, he will tie a long string to a bird wing and fling it around causing them to point. They can chase and catch that as their reward. Sometimes he will sneak away into some tall grass, make a lot of commotion, get the puppies to come check it out. A bunny might be in there. Whether they catch the bunny or not, it was still important to them because a bunny was there.

It is worth mentioning that all dogs have a prey drive. They are predators. The instinct to hunt, chase and kill prey emanates from one of the four responses processed in their brain to ensure survival and continuation of the species: fight, flight, feed (eating) and breed (reproducing). Hunting is not part of the feed response. It is part of the fight response. Gary will return for a future podcast where we will delve into the prey drive and how he manages it so that the dog remains clear-headed as it escalates through this fight response.

The instinct to herd animals also comes from the fight response. A border collie’s locked-in stare and posture when herding sheep looks different than a Bluetick Coonhound holding a racoon in a tree, but it comes from the same fight response. As a trainer working with different breeds, it is critical to understand what to expect from each breed.

“Breed traits are real.”

I don’t own a gun and have never hunted. However, when talking about dogs who were bred to perform specific tasks, there is something special about watching them do what comes natural to them. I love watching dogs work. There is a certain energy they exude while they are performing that instinctual act.

My dog Ebi is a Leonberger. They were bred in Germany to pull carts on farms and to be reliable watchdogs. They also are known to be excellent swimmers and are still used in water rescues due to their size and strength. Their paws are webbed making them effective swimmers. Several years ago, I simulated a water rescue at the old Canine Country Club in North Olmsted. I had a floating device with a handle. I bobbed up and down shouting “Help!” Ebi swam over to me, I showed her the handle to grab with her mouth, and she pulled me to the ramp! I did not train her to do that. I unleashed the instinct which is in her DNA. It was an awesome experience.

I also fulfilled Ebi’s instinct to haul carts by fitting her with a special harness and rigging up leads attached to a sled so she could pull my neighbor’s son on the snow covered sidewalk. As soon as I got her started, the instinct to pull took over and she pulled him right along as shown in the video below.

Gary uses the term genetic fulfillment when talking about this innate, instinctual drive in dogs. I was fulfilling my Leonberger’s genetic makeup by simulating a swim rescue and pulling a sled. The activities I have chosen for her align with the original purpose of the Leonberger breed.

In my opinion, a well balanced dog is one that gets their needs met in addition to the obvious eating, drinking and sleeping. They get plenty of exercise that includes structured and unstructured time. This includes structured walks with their leader and unstructured exercise rooting around in the backyard or playing with other friendly dogs. A well balanced dog is provided with activities that simulate or duplicate their specific needs as a breed. They also know their boundaries and limitations as set by their leader. Finally, they receive affection at the appropriate time - while they are calm and submissive. If these needs are not met, behavioral issues can arise.

Gary recounts a story about clients of mine who were having a slew of behavioral issues with their Redbone Coonhound they purchased from a pet store. The adolescent puppy was eliminating all over the house, would not stay in a crate, and constantly broke away from them. These are all common behaviors of the breed, especially when they are not provided structure and getting their needs met. The clients actually wanted to make him a hunting dog and had aspirations to train him to do so. I reached out to Gary for his expertise since I didn’t know how to train hunting dogs. It required work that the client eventually realized they could not provide and ended up finding a new home for the dog.

Some clients I have come across prefer hunting dog breeds. I understand why. As puppies, they are adorable with their big floppy ears that are almost as big as they are! The bright blue eyes of a German Shorthaired Pointer puppy or the droopy faces of Bloodhound puppies are irresistible. We also can’t forget that Labradors and Golden Retrievers are hunting dogs too. No matter what the breed, puppies melt our hearts. According to Gary, the worst reason to get a dog is how it looks. Instead, match the breed with your lifestyle based on what you currently do now, not what you are going to do.

Puppies grow up to be beautiful dogs from an esthetic point of view, but can wreak havoc on their pet parents when their needs are not met. I hope I have sparked some motivation in you to reflect upon if and how you are genetically fulfilling your dog. You will also benefit from the feeling you will witness when you unleash that skill your dog’s DNA is yearning to express.

Please share in the comments below what you currently do or would like to do for your dog so they can express and enjoy what they were bred to do.

Thanks for reading From A Dog’s Eye View! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.

Dr. Jennifer Smith has returned to the Canine Concierge podcast, “From A Dog’s Eye View” to discuss two misunderstood aspects of dog behavior - reactivity and aggression. Dr. Smith is a trauma-informed behavior specialist in Cleveland with extensive experience working with and training dogs. She brings her unique expertise of both humans and dogs to explain the neurological escalation cycle that drives these behaviors. She will also provide practical insights for pet parents struggling with reactive dogs. Together, we hope to help you understand what is happening in your dog’s brain and what you can do to manage and reduce the reactivity and/or aggression.

According to Dr. Smith, reactivity is the dog’s expression of how they are interpreting their environment. They assess everything they smell, see, and hear, in that order. This determines what type of reaction they will have. Reactions are the dog’s way to communicate about what they are experiencing. If they are left to express their own reaction to a particular stimulus, they can get in a rut and repeat that same reaction over and over again. It is up to us as handlers to teach them to have a different reaction.

“All reactions are communicative in nature.” Dr. Jennifer Smith

Reactivity is not always an outwardly visible and audible response, like lunging and barking. It is also a passive reaction, such as Dr. Smith’s poodle named Blue, laying in the studio with us. He was told to lie down and stay. He is communicating that he feels safe and will successfully hold that stay until he is released. If he didn’t feel safe, he would be pacing, whining, panting and possibly drooling - all signs of stress.

Aggression is the dog’s outward expression that is more severe than their initial instinct to investigate a stimulus they are unsure of. In my opinion, the most dangerous type of aggression is the quiet dog that is not showing the typical signs of an imminent attack. When dogs are improperly trained not to react to stimuli, they can suppress the typical initial signs of possible aggression such as barking and lunging. The dog will react in an explosive manner and go from the green zone to the red zone in a second.

Reactivity is not always aggression. There are many factors that play a part in a dog’s reaction to stimuli. To name a few, a dog that is in pain can have an aggressive reaction when touched, but does not mean he is aggressive. A dog that is restrained and can’t reach the desired target can have an aggressive reaction, but should not be labeled aggressive. When dogs are playing, one dog can bark and bite the other dog when there is a disagreement. This may look like an aggressive act, but it is really a form of dog communication. As Dr. Smith mentions how mama dogs scold their puppies when they start getting obnoxious, is not a form of aggression, but a way to communicate to them to settle down.

Certain breeds have traits that are more prevalent in some than in others. Some breeds are protective of their territory or owner, causing certain reactions. It is important to know these traits so you can manage them better. Just because your dog lunges and barks at other dogs, doesn’t mean that your dog is now labeled an aggressive dog. Could that dog’s reaction turn into aggression? Absolutely! Depending on the circumstances, your dog may have to defend himself from being attacked and bite the attacker. If your dog feels threatened and pressured enough by the stimulus, he can strike out. All of these factors come into play when assessing reactivity and aggression.

Terriers are known to have stronger prey drives than other breeds. Their motivation and persistence when chasing their prey escalates as they pursue their prey more intensely than a dog that is known to retrieve prey. Dogs can be trained to chase but not kill. They can also be trained to maim or kill their prey. They can be trained to pursue and alert their owner where the prey is. It is how the dog is trained to move through these escalation cycles that determines the control you have over your dog.

The average dog owner does not pursue this type of advanced training. Therefore, dogs that have not been taught the skillset to move through these drives can become so dangerous to people and animals that they become a liability to their community. This will be discussed in detail with Gary Flynn from The Dog Advocate when we talk about training hunting dogs.

It is important to point out that our reactions can be totally different than our dog’s reaction even though we are experiencing the same stimuli in our environment. Their reaction can be starkly different when the dog is experiencing something they smell, see or hear, especially for the very first time. If it becomes a pattern, make a note of your dog’s reactions as they may be triggers for certain behaviors. As “my dog trainer friend”, Gary Flynn, always comments about this subject:

One instance does not a behavior make”

This means that just because your dog had a particular reaction to something or someone once, it doesn’t mean he will always have a reaction to the same thing again. It is when the dog has this reaction several times to the same trigger that it becomes predictable, is it now an issue that needs to be addressed. For example, just because your dog backed up and was not interested in meeting a random man with a hat on, doesn’t mean that your dog is afraid of all men with hats. However, if your dog only has this type of reaction to several men with hats in different places, then you will want to take precautions when introducing him to men with hats.

For example, we humans may know that the garbage bin on the side of the road poses no threat to us. However, our dog may start growling, barking, and resisting by backing up. These are all signs of feeling uncomfortable and unsafe with the garbage bin. The worst thing we can do is force the dog towards the garbage bin while vocalizing in a frustrated tone and energy that there is nothing to be afraid of. The reaction in the dog is real and should not be discounted by the pet parent. We don’t want to make the dog feel that they cannot trust their own skillset because you are telling them they should be reacting in a different way. Instead, validate how the dog feels and then take action to fix it.

A way to help the dog is to implement what I call the distance formula - find that distance from the garbage bin where your dog can sit by your side without growling or barking. Then, step by step with substantial time in-between each step to recover, slowly approach the bin until you are right next to it. Keep your leash loose with each progression. Then, leave it up to the dog to investigate the garbage can by sniffing it. This may take several days. You can never be in a hurry when conditioning your dog to have a different reaction than their original reaction.

Why Reactivity is Common Today

Reactivity has become a buzzword in the dog community. So many more people have dogs today than when I grew up. There are many stores that are dog friendly. You can travel with your dog and stay in designated dog friendly hotels. There are patios where you can eat and have drinks with our dogs at our side. However, not every dog is as comfortable as we are with these different places. Not every business owner is a dog person. We must respect that.

Every place and every activity is not for every dog. Be aware of your dog’s limits as a social being. Don’t force them into those situations just because you want a dog that can accompany you everywhere you go. It is a balance you must strike. You don’t want to limit and restrict your dog from certain experiences. but you also don’t want to expose them to situations you know they are uncomfortable with.

Aggression is best explained by Dr. Smith’s chart below. The schematic below shows which part of the brain is activated during each cycle of escalation and what visible signs are noticeable during each phase.

The Green Zone

The part of the brain that is colored green in the schematic is the executive functioning part. It is the CEO of the brain. The dog is in a relatively calm state. They use their sense of smell to explore, their body is relaxed, their eyes are soft (the whites of their eyes are not showing), and they accept treats. This is the only zone when they can take in new information. This is the zone that is necessary for learning in my obedience classes. When I notice dogs starting to move into the yellow zone, I tell the pet parent to move their dog to a different place where the distractions aren’t as high.

In the green zone, the dog may be lying on his side. This reflects a different state of mind than when they lie in the sphinx position where they can erupt and get up very quickly. The dog will feel safe enough to engage in play. It must be noted that play can encourage a dog to move to the next levels of escalation. If you have a dog that moves through the escalation cycle rather quickly, you must know when to end the play session so that your dog does not get to the red zone.

The Yellow Zone

The yellow and orange zones are the emotional parts of the brain right above the brainstem. The dog is processing a stimulus in their environment that we refer to as a trigger. This can be another dog, person, squirrel, or anything that moves. Their head raises up, their ears are alert and they may sniff the air. When they start to focus in and stare at the trigger, the first sense that is affected is their sense of smell. They are not able to sniff and hone in on a target. You may have to repeat a command a couple of times because now they are distracted enough to not execute the command you give them on the first try. You may have to use the scent of treats right up to their nose to get their attention first and then tell them the command. They can still execute the command.

If they are getting fearful, they may sidle up to you or stand behind you. They may even jump up on you as if to solicit your help. Realize that this is happening, but remember if you reward this behavior by petting, hugging or picking them up, they will continue this until you show them how to manage their fear. The best thing to do in this instance is to acknowledge they are fearful but to not vocalize it. Just remain calm. Your dog will sense your energy through the leash.

If your dog is out in front of you, bring them in to your side and react from a position of leadership. If the dog stays out in front of you, they think they have to handle the object that is making them nervous all by themselves. This increases their anxiety. Most dogs want a leader to follow. They want someone else to make the decisions and keep them safe. When they feel they have to make the decisions, they become out of balance.

“Our number one job is to keep our dogs safe.” - Dr. Jennifer Smith

Our promise to our dogs is to keep them safe. The more you do that, the more they will trust you. If you don’t help them get out of situations that are stressful for them, if you wait for them to manage them on their own, now you become part of the reason why they started to escalate in the first place. They start seeing you as part of the trigger. If you let your dog continue to escalate, and you are not breaking that cycle, their brain cannot logically function to deescalate. They are beginning to enter the orange and possibly the red zone.

When dogs are in the yellow zone, they can still return to the green zone. The further up the escalation cycle, the harder it is to come back down. They get more protective of themselves because they are not trusting their environment. It is essential to recognize your dog’s signs when they are not at ease and are starting to escalate. You can still sway them to calm down by providing more distance between the trigger and themselves. You can also use treats to get the focus back on you and not the trigger. This is very important. Your dog should think that you are the best thing in the world to them. More valuable than any trigger. I teach this in my obedience classes. The problem is, overtime, most people abandon this skill.

In the picture below, Rosie is focused on something outside. Her tail is up, her mouth is closed, her stare is intense, and her legs are stiff. She either is about to bark or is taking a quick break from barking. She has also climbed up on the bed not only to see out the window better, but also to feel in a more dominant position to the object outside. She is in the yellow zone, but will be able to return to the green zone with some coaxing from her pet parent.

The Orange Zone

When dogs move into the orange zone, the handler must be very attentive to take action quickly so they do not escalate into the red zone. Their body is stiff and the corners of their mouth are tight. However, when your dog is in the orange zone, the last thing you are looking at is their mouth! I have seen too many times how pet parents will stay in place in front of the trigger and have their dog out in front of them while the dog is barking and lunging. They get frustrated at their dog for continuing to bark and lunge. Your objective should be to move your dog to a safer place that will calm your dog down. At this stage, they will no longer take treats. You have to physically remove them. This is when your dog can be more powerful than you and can actually take you down if not handled properly.

“Triggers are not going to remove themselves. You have to remove the dog.” - Dr. Jennifer Smith

The Red Zone

As the dog moves up the escalation cycle, the part of the brain that is activated moves further down. The brainstem is activated in the red zone. This is the fight or flight response. It is the oldest part of the brain and sometimes referred to as the caveman’s brain. Upon birth, it is an expert at what it does. The fight, flight or freeze responses are its only skills. If your dog has escalated to the red zone, there is no longer voluntary learning. Its only job is to keep itself safe. A dog’s skillset becomes very limited and will take it upon himself to attack if necessary or to run away. They may freeze, which will leave them vulnerable, but for some, their only way to cope with this situation is to freeze. No logic can be mustered up. It’s all about survival at this point.

In the picture above, the classic signs that a bite is most likely imminent: ears are drawn back, whites of eyes showing, pupils are dilated, the corners of the mouth are tight and drawn in, teeth are barred, and the paw is stiff and extended to get the person to stop manipulating them. This dog is most likely more fearful than forward moving dominant because of his position of leaning slightly backwards.

I have experienced plenty of red zone cases where the dog will attack or run away. I have seen dogs freeze because they were so scared of their environment. I have also seen dogs shutdown and freeze when their pet parent has corrected them too much with their voice and their collar. Sensitive dogs can be very quick to freeze, especially those who have experienced trauma. It takes an extremely patient handler to work with dogs like this. They have to be calm yet assertive, and not too assertive. This is a difficult lesson to teach my clients, but most have been successful. The dog can remain cautious and fearful but still live a good life.

The same effects of trauma happen in the human world. One client I had froze when his girlfriend was being attacked by their dog. Now I know why the boyfriend had that reaction. Both the boyfriend and the dog activated their caveman brain! I had to intervene to put an end to the attack. Luckily the woman had on a thick enough jacket that the dog didn’t pierce through, but the bite was vicious. He bit and thrashed her arm from side to side almost taking off her loose coat. I’m lucky I didn’t get bit.

In cases where the dog has experienced repeated trauma at a young age, the brainstem can actually grow and bump into the adjacent part squeezing out the ability of that part to develop. If that happens, then that part of the brain and neuropathways get pruned. If the dog stays in the red zone, those pathways will never develop.

Temperament Testing

Temperament testing is the functional assessment of a puppy or dog through observation. A professional will look for patterns the dog manifests when exposed to stimuli. It is not just limited to puppies. Puppies change as they mature according to their experiences. However, Dr. Smith believes that as soon as the sperm hits the egg, the temperament is born. This is why show dog breeders and service dog organizations heavily emphasize the temperaments of many generations of the male and female breeder dogs. Even though the genetic line is exemplary, each dog still requires a temperament test.

When I go to a client’s home for the first time, I start by telling them to let the dog(s) come to greet me. The client is usually worried about the dog jumping on me. I tell them that I can tell a lot about how the dog(s) behave around me. I always enter the house and just stand there without looking at or touching the dog(s). I have to make sure the client understands why I do this. Otherwise, they think I am being rude to their dog(s) by not acknowledging them.

After the greeting process, then I observe how each family member interacts with the dog and what their response is. Sometimes, I will ask the family members to leave temporarily in order to evaluate if their behavior is affected by them. I make mental notes of where the dog positions themselves in relation to myself and other family members. In a multi-dog household, I observe if there is a dominant dog and how that dog affects the behavior of the other dogs. Finally, I ask the client to show me how they feed their dog and how they walk their dog. I will also walk the dog to see how receptive he is to my energy and leadership. After all of those factors, I can begin to develop a plan to improve these behaviors and help train the dog so that everyone can live harmoniously under the same roof.

According to Dr. Smith, changing a human’s or dog’s behavior is extremely challenging. Sometimes with little to no results. It depends on how receptive and committed the human is to change. It takes consistency to stick to a rehabilitation program and knowledge of dog behavior. The motivation to change is key. It is amazing what people will put up with from their dogs. Sometimes, clients don’t even realize they can change their dog’s behavior. My success as a professional dog trainer is by proving to the client that the dog can change. I accomplish this by successfully demonstrating what they thought was impossible.

I would like to conclude this post by recapping the key takeaways in defining reactivity, aggression, and the escalation cycle. First, reactivity is simply how dogs interpret and respond to their environment. It is not always aggression. Every dog reacts to stimuli, but the key is understanding when those reactions indicate stress or fear versus curiosity or excitement.

Second, the escalation cycle shows us that dogs move through four distinct brain zones. The green zone is where voluntary learning happens. Your dog is calm, accepts treats, and responds to cues. The yellow zone is the emotional response where dogs become alert and their ability to learn diminishes. They are still able to return to the green zone.

The orange zone is also an emotional response area but more intense. Dogs are no longer exploring their environment through their sense of smell. If not removed from this zone, they can easily escalate to the final zone, the red zone. This is the fight-or-flight response, where dogs have limited options and can no longer process incoming information. Signs of aggression can be imminent if not restrained.

Third, understanding your dog’s temperament is crucial. Temperament is presented from birth. While you can’t change it, you can work with it. Some dogs are naturally more excitable, others more cautious. Knowing your dog’s baseline helps you recognize when they are escalating.

Fourth, consistency is everything. Dogs learn through patterns and repetition. If your dog reacts the same way to the same trigger every day, they are becoming an expert in that reaction. You must intervene and teach alternative responses with the help of a qualified professional trainer.

Finally, your vital role as the handler is to keep your dog safe. When your dog escalates, remove them from the triggering environment. You are their protector. Building that trust is essential for helping them feel secure.

Please remember, not every dog needs to go everywhere and do everything with you. Respect your dog’s limits while working to expand their world safely and gradually. If you are dealing with serious aggression, seek professional help immediately. Your safety and your dog’s well-being depend on it.

Thanks for reading From A Dog’s Eye View! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.

 My guest, Brendan McCarthy, is the operations manager and one of four founders of Doggy Style. Brendan’s company sells their own line of pet care products. What separates retail dog grooming products from Doggy Style products is the quality and uniqueness of the natural ingredients. Most of the ingredients are plant based.

Work experience

Before Brendan formed his own company, he worked for Park Ohio Industries in Cleveland. He ran their operations for 12 years by revitalizing local companies that were run down and needed improvements. This experience led to his next job working in operations, quality control and sales for Blue Buffalo, the #1 - selling pet food brand. They were one of the first national companies with an all-natural ingredients dog food.

Blue Buffalo is a family run business that started in 2003. When the family’s Airedale, named Blue, was diagnosed with cancer, they started looking into giving him the best quality food possible. What a motivator to create their own all natural food with quality ingredients!

The founding members of Doggy Style are Brendan, his brother, his cousin, and a good friend from the Blue Buffalo family. They were talking one day about creating shampoo for dogs. They noticed that it was hard to find a good dog shampoo, especially one with natural ingredients. Brendan was intrigued by this concept since one of his dogs was plagued with itchy, irritated skin. The shampoo he was using could have contributed to that.

One of the team members was in the ingredients business. He had knowledge and exposure to plant-based products for humans. The four compadres all loved dogs and thought it would be innovative to invent a recipe for a shampoo. They wanted their product to be good not just for the dog, but for the pet parents and their home/environment. They didn’t know it at the time, but they were to become a team and create a whole line of pet products.

Doggy Style Shampoo

Brendan remembers the day they all got serious in creating an all natural dog shampoo. It was August 23, 2023. Some ingredients they wanted to include were coconut oil, olive oil, and natural soaps. It was important to them that the remaining ingredients were all natural and plant-based.

Doggy Style shampoo is both a hypoallergenic shampoo and conditioner. It only takes a little shampoo to produce a lot of suds. The best way to apply it is putting a little bit on one of their massaging brushes and gently rubbing it into the dog’s fur.

In order to make a shampoo, an elastomer is required. Most elastomers are man-made and silicone based. Doggy Style shampoo uses an all-natural elastomer called Gransense, which has only been on the market for approximately 5 years. It binds the other ingredients in the shampoo with different oils to produce a moisturizer type feel to the shampoo. This benefits the dog by making their fur stay soft for days and weeks.

The other plant based ingredient is Sage Balance. It has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. It is also anti-odor and anti-dander. The antimicrobial agents destroy microorganisms such as bacteria, viruses and fungi that can cause itchy skin. Doggy Style shampoo is the only shampoo on the market with both Gransense and Sage Balance.

Doggy Style shampoo doesn’t claim to be a whitening shampoo. However, it does whiten dog’s fur because it removes the unnecessary oils and returns them back to their natural pure color. I refer you to my previous podcast dated 10/14/25 about grooming with Sharyn Ugan, a dog should not be fully bathed every day or every week. Once a month is adequate. Bathing too often can strip the natural oils in a dog’s coat.

If it is necessary to bathe your dog more often, using Doggy Style shampoo is much safer than other shampoos on the market due to the natural ingredients. It is based off a baby formula, so you could bathe your dog twice a week and it wouldn’t hurt. It would actually help in the case of hot spots or itchy skin. Brendan recommends a couple of baths within the first week of the onset of skin irritation. The itching will most likely disappear unless an internal problem exists, such as allergies or other conditions. Please seek the advice of a veterinarian to identify the root problem.

Deodorizer Spray

If there is a need to freshen up your dog’s fur or just make it smell better, Doggy Style makes a deodorizer spray that also acts as a conditioner. This is a top seller for Doggy Style. Brendan suggests carrying a bottle in the car and having one on hand in the house. Sometimes I feel the need to freshen up my dog in between baths. This spritz smells very fresh and pleasant. Brendan suggests to spritz a little on your wrist to smell it first to see if you like it. After all, it is you who will be smelling it the most!

Doggy Style chose Grant Industries as one of their main suppliers. Grant Industries is a leading global provider to the personal care and beauty industry. They pride themselves in providing materials that are safe for consumers. One of their products is essential oils which are derived from plants and contain aromatic compounds. Brendan’s team tried many different ones until everyone agreed on The Ocean. This is what makes their shampoo and spritzer so pleasant. The scent is for the humans, of course. Dogs can roll in dirty diapers and be happy, but their pet parents won’t be!

Paw Protector

Another great product that Doggy Style sells is a paw protector. This product can protect paws from cracking, bleeding and getting chapped from very cold, dry temperatures. Exposure to snow, salt, ice, and chemical de-icers can irritate the pads and become problematic. The best time to apply the paw protector is right before heading out for your daily walk. It is also advisable to wash and wipe off the pads when returning home from the walk. If there are any injuries or small fissures, apply some more protector to the pads. The same product that protects, also heals.

Many pet parents may not use paw protector because they are concerned it is not safe for their dogs if they lick their paws. However, Doggy Style’s paw protector is lick safe and will not cause any stomach upset if ingested. There is actually some charcoal in the product to deter the dogs from licking it. After all, you don’t want to make it so appealing that the dog enjoys licking it and negates the whole reason you are applying it in the first place!

The variety of oils: coconut, olive, sunflower seed and sweet almond, combined with the sage balance is what produces the healing properties of the paw protector. It can also be used to heal hot spots, dry spots, and even can be used on their nose and crusty elbows. It is soft enough to scoop easily and apply just the right amount.

Scrub Brushes and Regular Brushes

As mentioned above, the best way to apply Doggy Style shampoo is with a scrub brush pictured below. A little bit can go a long way. The scrub brush also helps spread the shampoo more evenly. The shampoo is thicker than most dog shampoos, so squeezing it out directly on the dog makes it more difficult to spread around.

Personally, I love the scrub brush better than scrubbing my dog’s fur with my fingers, especially around the back end! It acts as a massager too. Just as a massage feels good for us, the scrub brush can act as a massager as well. Brendan’s dog Maggie isn’t a fan of baths but she perks right up when she sees the scrub brush.

The scrub brushes come in two different sizes. The smaller one is for short fur and smaller dogs. The bigger one has longer bristles and can cover more territory for larger dogs. Both the scrub brushes and the regular brushes are made out of bamboo and are tightly sealed with high quality silicone. This prevents mold from forming. Bamboo is durable and water resistant but is not waterproof. It is advisable not to expose it to prolonged moisture.

Towel

Doggy Style also makes a 20”X40” towel for drying the dog off. It is 87% cotton and 13% charcoal fused rayon. When you dry your dog, the charcoal pulls any odors and oxidants out of the skin and fur. The charcoal is activated by the heat from the friction of drying the dog off. The charcoal is good for the life of the towel. Putting it through a wash cycle and then in the dryer will not degrade the effectiveness of the charcoal.

Doggy Style is currently working on a larger version of the towel. It will be the size of a bath towel - great for larger dogs. They are also working on developing all natural disposable paw wipes - great for spot cleaning dirty paws.

How Doggy Style Got Its Name

Doggy Style strives to keep as much of their products manufactured first in Ohio (as close as New Albany) and then within the United States. However, they had to source out the cap of the shampoo overseas in order to get the green color they wanted. So much more goes into not just developing the product but also finding a company to manufacture the container it is sold in.

Now that the team had a specialty product available to market, they needed to come up with a name. Brendan’s brother Dan interviewed over 500 people in Washington, D.C. where he lives. He asked people walking with dogs 6 questions about grooming their dogs. He asked questions about where and how often they bathe their dogs. He also asked what shampoo they use or what their groomers use and if they would prefer an all natural dog shampoo. Some people knew the name of the shampoo they used but many did not. That’s when he decided that the name of their shampoo had to be catchy and memorable. Doggy Style achieves that! Every dog has their own style!

Doggy Style Logo

Doggy Style found an exceptional Cleveland based brand company called New Baum. Brendan and his team wanted their own dogs to be part of the logo. Instead, they compromised and chose an Irish Wolfhound because of their heritage. Irish Wolfhounds are huge dogs with huge character. It just fit their Doggy Style image. When Brendan is exhibiting his products at a convention, inevitably people with Wolfhounds will come up and approach him.

Where to buy Doggy Style Products

Doggy Style products are sold first and foremost on their website. They are also sold in over 60 stores in the Cleveland area, the east coast, and in Florida. Some of the stores where they can be found locally are Pets General in Lakewood, Lake Road Market in Rocky River, and Pet-Tique in Cleveland. They are looking to expand in other retail stores that sell all natural products. When ordering products via the Doggy Style website, enter the discount code: 10_OFF_WELCOME to receive 10% off your first order.

I highly recommend and use all of the Doggy Style products. I take Ebi to Pet Supplies Plus to bathe her. In my opinion, they have the best self-serve pet wash in town. Their state of the art bathing station at their Fairview Park store includes an operator friendly dial to control a rinse, shampoo, and conditioner cycle. You can also bring your own shampoo. They provide plenty of towels and an apron so you don’t get soaked when your dog decides to shake off excess water! After the final rinse, there is an attachment for drying your dog.

I started using Doggy Style products last summer and was hooked after the first time. Ebi’s fur stays soft and looks so shiny and healthy for at least a week after her bath. In between baths, I use the spritz to freshen up the typical dog smell. She doesn’t care for it when I spray the deodorizer spray directly on her fur, so I spray a some on the brush and brush her out. She still tries to rub it off on the floor unless I immediately put her leash on and we go for a walk.

The all natural ingredients in Doggy Style products resonates with my holistic approach to nutrition and wellness treatments for pets. In the near future, I will have a podcast dedicated to this subject. After all, we are what we eat and the environment around us has an impact on our health and well being.

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Before I had the honor of meeting my two guests, Zaron Van Meter and Stefanie Mowrey, the information I had about puppy mills was based on second hand knowledge. I also learned a lot from a book that a client/friend gave to me entitled, “The Doggie in the Window” by Rory Kress, pictured below. My very first exposure to the existence of puppy mills happened about 25 years ago. I remember exactly where I was. I had just finished playing tennis with a weekly women’s league. We were all talking in the lobby of the North Olmsted Rec Center. One of the ladies was asking for signatures on a petition that had to do with puppy mills and the welfare of the puppies born and raised in them. Someone had to explain to me what puppy mills were. I was horrified to say the least.

My Exposure to Puppy Mills

I am originally from upstate New York. I thought at the time that the existence of puppy mills was an Ohio issue. I was in disbelief anyone could treat dogs with anything but love. Jump ahead 25 years, I never dreamed I would have a venue such as this podcast to spread awareness of this sensitive subject. Additionally, to be able to host two dedicated dog advocates who are fighting for more effective and efficient enforcement of legislation protecting the welfare of dogs in high volume dog breeder facilities, known as puppy mills.

Zaron and Stefanie have taught me so much about the regulations puppy mills are supposed to adhere to and the current oversight that exists. In both episodes of our podcast, they talk about this and the effects puppies and dogs have after growing up in a puppy mill. It is not just the physical, but also the mental toll it takes on them.

Before I became a dog trainer in 2012, I volunteered at the Cuyahoga County Animal Shelter for almost a year. I knew that I wanted to work with dogs and thought this would be a good way to get hands-on experience with all types of dogs. I don’t ever remember anyone telling me that certain dogs were from a puppy mill. When I look back on that experience knowing what I know now, I think about particular dogs behaving in a way that could have indicated they were distrustful of humans for one reason or another, or they were from a puppy mill. We were told to just put the bowl of food in their crate and not to take them out for a walk. They were terrified and shaking. Their pupils were dilated and they were practically glued to the back of the crate.

As I mentioned to Zaron and Stefanie, there was a computer station at Petco when I started working there in 2012 that allowed customers access to websites selling dogs. The general consensus was that this was a great idea - better than buying a dog from the newspaper, like my family and I did with our Corgi, Hank. By the time I left, the computer was gone. We weren’t told why. We all assumed that it was because it didn’t work anymore. However, Zaron and Stefanie revealed to me that puppy mill breeders can also be licensed brokers. They could be the ones selling these cute puppies online or part of a network of high volume dog breeders.

When I think about certain dogs I trained in obedience classes, they too could have come from puppy mills. No one ever told me they knew they adopted a dog from a puppy mill. I recall soon after I was hired at Petco, I asked the dog trainer I replaced if he thought dogs could have “a screw loose”. I don’t really remember his answer. At that time, I was experiencing a young dog that was so out of control and unpredictable that nothing worked. One minute he was happy go lucky and the next minute he was attacking whoever had the leash, even his owner. The owner purchased the dog to be a therapy dog. Well, the dog ended up getting rehomed and the owner’s dream dashed of making him a therapy dog. At the time, I chalked that one up to my inexperience as a dog trainer.

Current notoriety of puppy mills

When I think about the dog I tried to train at Petco with the knowledge I have now, there was something wrong with the dog. Perhaps the dog’s behavior was due to poor breeding and was possibly from a puppy mill. Today, it is more and more common to hear that people knowingly adopt a puppy or dog from a puppy mill. Individuals at shelter and rescue agencies, including Stefanie, are familiar with the urgency that arises when breeders surrender unwanted dogs or puppies to a shelter. This situation occurs after breeders receive a two day notice of an inspection. Please refer to her story in Part 1 about the Rottweiler puppy she adopted within the past two years.

It has reached a point where rescue agencies are tapped out. Volunteers and fosters are in short supply. There are just too many dogs being born that are suffering due to the lack of care inside these puppy mills. Additionally, the people who rescue or purchase them can be riddled with vet bills due to diseases, physical, or behavioral issues. There are just not enough people to care properly for them.

This issue is not improving. It is only getting worse, to the point that puppy mills are no longer a hush-hush word. Puppies and dogs need to be rescued when puppy mills are violating regulations after being inspected, and they need to get rid of dogs. Too many dogs are disposed of either by dumping them on the side of the road, or ethically or unethically euthanized. It is difficult to state accurately what they do and how widespread it is since reporters and the public have difficulty gaining access to this information.

How Ohio rates in regulating puppy mills

Ohio is second in the nation for having the most egregious violations found by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA)inspectors. This is backed up annually by “The Horrible Hundred” published by The Humane World for Animals.

Some issues that are commonly found by inspectors in “The Horrible Hundred” list itemized by state are:

* too many dogs per crate

* unsanitary conditions

* sick or injured dogs

* inadequate and substandard veterinary care for surgical procedures

* problematic veterinary check ups of female dogs suitable for breeding

According to inspection reports that are available to the public, docking of tails have been performed using carpet knives. I remember a client of mine with a Corgi whose tail was cut off right at the base of the tail. It made an impression on me because my Corgi’s butt did not look like that. I also have seen Corgi tails cut off about 4 inches from the base of the tail, like a boxer’s tail. I have seen a Boxer’s stub infected when the puppy was picked up. At the time, I knew what I saw wasn’t quite right, but I didn’t know what I was really looking at.

Cropping ears used to be legal only if done by a licensed vet. However, in 2022, the Joint Committee on Agency Rule Review (JCARR) ruled in favor of the breeders. Now, ears can be cropped by the breeder. We can only hope that both the docking of tails and cropping of ears are done under anesthesia by a licensed vet in the puppy mills. PPOV is trying to reverse this procedure back to where only a licensed vet can perform the cropping of ears.

Stefanie tells us the Humane Society she volunteers for accepted 1,000 puppies and dogs in 2023. Almost half of them came from puppy mills. According to the intake person at the rescue agency, the biggest problem she sees is how many emergency medical issues exist with the puppy mill dogs such as C-section complications on female breeder dogs, dental issues, and the effects of the amount of stress endured at the facility. Whether the breeding process is done naturally or by artificial insemination, it has to be very stressful on both the male and female dogs. When ethical breeders get the male and female together to mate naturally, that process is stressful for both. I can only imagine how puppy mill breeders conduct the mating process.

Oversight for high volume dog breeders

High volume dog breeders in Ohio are regulated by the Ohio Department of Agriculture. These breeders must obtain proper insurance or surety bonds, breeders licenses, and adhere to existing laws ensuring the welfare of the puppies and dogs housed on their premises. Ohio regulations classify high volume dog breeders as an establishment that keeps, houses, and maintains 6 or more breeding dogs and does at least one of the following:

* sells 5 or more adult dogs or puppies to brokers or pet stores in one year for a fee or consideration

* sells 40 or more puppies or dogs to the public in a year for a fee or other consideration

* houses and maintains more than 40 puppies under 4 months old, bred on premises and have been primarily kept, housed, and maintained from birth on the premises of the establishment.

Currently, there are over 900 licensed breeders in Ohio. According to Ohio Department of Agriculture, there are 468 licensed high volume dog breeders. There are 453 licensed brokers. It is possible for a breeder to also be a broker. This means that a breeder can sell their dogs on the side of the road to paying customers like us. However, due to their high volume of dogs, they will also use brokers to pick up puppies and dogs to be sold to pet stores and online sites. Brokers pay the breeders for the cost of the dogs. They in turn will charge the pet store or online brokers a fee to recover their costs.

Legislation intended to protect the welfare of puppy mill

The last time legislation was passed concerning high volume dog breeders was in 2012. Senate Bill 130 (or SB130), section 956.04 took 7 years to pass. This bill established criteria for high volume dog breeders to follow. These are outlined in Part 1 of this podcast. Two of the stipulations have to be reintroduced due to lack of adherence by the breeders and lack of enforcing. One provision is the “no-knock” inspection. Inspections are to be unannounced so that inspectors see the real conditions of the facility. The other provision that needs to be reintroduced is the proper, ethical docking of the tails and trimming of the ears by licensed veterinarians.

Senate Bill 232

Zaron and Stefanie founded Passion & Purpose for Ohio’s Voiceless (PPOV) two years ago. Their mission is to educate the public and advocate for the welfare of dogs in puppy mills. Although the state has some of the strongest laws in the country, loopholes allow ongoing violations that jeopardize animal welfare. PPOV is collaborating directly with Senator Casey Weinstein, who has re-introduced and sponsored Senate Bill 232. There are four parts to this bill:

* increase the number of establishments that are considered high volume dog breeders to be subject to regulation under the law governing breeders

* require that all euthanasia and surgical procedures be performed by a licensed veterinarian

* add tail docking, dew claw removal, and ear cropping as surgical procedures to be performed by a licensed veterinarian

* require the Director of Agriculture, or an authorized representative to conduct inspections of high volume dog breeders during regular business hours without prior notice

How everyone can help

Senator Weinstein has asked PPOV to rally support for this bill. Legislative action depends on clear evidence that the community stands behind this cause. Your voice is critical in demonstrating to the legislature the urgent need for reform of the management of puppy mills. If you are willing to help, please strongly consider providing written testimony when the General Assembly reconvenes in February. A few days before the Senate Agriculture and Natural Resources Committee meets to hear testimony from us citizens, PPOV will be provided with a link to submit your written testimony.

I will be sending out a separate post including a template with suggestions to follow for the testimony. Even if you have never had a personal experience with a suspected or known puppy mill dog, you can still voice your displeasure with how puppy mills are run. You can prepare your testimony now so that it is ready in a moments notice. I will be sending out a text only podcast notification of the date to submit your written testimony, as soon as I hear from Zaron and Stefanie. There is power in numbers - if we all work together, we can achieve our goal of adding legislation to help give a voice to the voiceless. We appreciate your support!

Who to contact if you experienced fraud

What you can do to speak up for the voiceless is to report any discrepancies in the required criteria for ethical breeding when purchasing a puppy or dog. If you feel that you have experienced fraud in any way, please contact the Attorney General of the State of Ohio, David Yost at tel. 614-466-4320.

Stefanie recounts a story that a Facebook subscriber on the Passion & Purpose for Ohio’s Voiceless page, shared about how she received a dog that was different than the puppy she thought she purchased. She thought she was getting a puppy, but a vet determined it was at least two and a half years old! The “puppy” was sold online by an entity based out of Pennsylvania, the “puppy” was actually located in Ohio, and then was transported to Michigan and delivered to the customer’s doorstep. No paperwork was accompanied with the “puppy”. The woman did not want to try to return the dog for fear of what would happen back in the hands of this unethical breeder. The picture of the puppy was still listed as available on the website months later. This would be a classic case of fraud to be reported to the State Attorney General.

Spread awareness of puppy mills by word of mouth

Another way for people to help is to spread awareness of the signs that puppies or dogs may be part of the puppy mill network. When you hear about a friend or family member thinking about getting a dog, tell them to do their homework. You can even refer them to part 1 and part 2 of this podcast.

We can fight for more and new legislation for our beloved canines, but it is up to the general public to report any offenses of existing laws to the proper authorities. By increasing awareness to your friends and family about puppy mills, we can all push back against the agencies regulating them. For example, if you know of anyone who volunteers as a transporter from the mills to the rescue agency, encourage them to learn about what is within the law or when the law is being broken. Violations must be reported.

Who to contact if questioning the legitimacy of your breeder

Please refer to the signs that your puppy may have come from a high-volume dog breeder in Part 1 of this podcast. One of these signs include paperwork that must accompany every dog which includes the breed, age, and name and address of the breeder. If you do not go home with the proper paperwork, or you have repeatedly asked for it with no success, find out the name and address of the breeder and report it to The Department of Agriculture. For enforcement issues, contact Jason Davis at tel. 614-549-0158. For all other issues, contact Donna Potter at tel. 614-728-6350.

Also, please call the contacts above if you discover that the breeder you are dealing with does not have a breeder’s license. Refrain from buying the dog or puppy. Instead, do more research to find ethical breeders. A place to start is online for breeder specific clubs. These clubs are made up of people who care deeply about the dogs they find homes for. They can tell you where breeders of your desired breed are located near you. I suggest attending dog shows where ethical breeders have booths set up to answer any questions you may have about their specific breed. Dr. Jennifer Smith talks about this in our podcast entitled “Best in Show”.

In my opinion, the existing problems with puppy mills can only be remedied through stricter regulations that are enforced. Not to diminish any onus on The Department of Agriculture, but I respectfully ask how 5 inspectors in the entire state of Ohio can properly manage over 450 high volume dog breeders. How many breeders exist under the radar, referring to unlicensed breeders? There are over 300 licensed breeders who don’t get inspected because they don’t meet the criteria for being a high volume dog breeder. I believe all breeders should be licensed and inspected. This will never happen with only 5 inspectors. Everyone involved is overworked and frustrated at the constant barrage of puppies and dogs that need homes right away.

This podcast isn’t just for people who may have purchased or rescued a puppy mill dog. It is for anyone considering purchasing a puppy from a reputable breeder or rescuing a dog from a shelter or rescue agency. I hope to have provided some insight into this eye-opening issue of where puppies and dogs were bred and the conditions under which this occurred.

^1 “Ohio department of Agriculture”, https://www.agri.ohio.gov, last updated 1/18/26.

^2 “Ohio department of Agriculture”, https://www.agri.ohio.gov, last updated 1/18/26.

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