Artist Kirstie Macleod has dedicated much of her career to a single piece of work called The Red Dress Project. It centers on a single red gown, which provides an artistic platform for people to tell their stories through embroidery. It’s become a global endeavor, with 380 people from more than 50 countries contributing to the dress.
But back in 2009, Macleod could never have imagined what the project would become.
“My intention was purely just making sure to create this cross-cultural dialog, and I wanted it to spread the globe,” Macleod told The World. With that idea in mind, she started sending out small panels of burgundy-colored silk to people all over the world.
“With FedEx or DHL. And often hand carried, actually, because some of the countries — the postal services weren’t so reliable, so it would involve human chains of people,” she explained.
The “From Darkness to Light” panel of the Red Dress was created by six female embroiderers in Rwanda.Courtesy of Nicole Esselan
Along with each blank panel, Macleod sent a pretty loose brief “asking the individuals to create something of their own identity and the culture that they’re from.
“So, for the most part, I would never know what was coming back,” Macleod said.
Catalina Sanchez, an ecologist from Colombia, is one of the embroiderers who worked on the project.
The Red Dress displayed at the Fuller Craft Museum in Massachusetts in 2024.Courtesy of Kirstie Macleod
“I really, really wanted something colorful and joyful and tropical, you know,” she told The World. Wanting to highlight Colombia’s enormous number of bird species, Sanchez embroidered a toucan with its signature orange beak, plus pink flowers and green palm leaves. “For me, that represents my country.”
Hamida Gabaly from Egypt embroiders her panel of the Red Dress in 2015.Courtesy of Kirstie Macleod
Designs on the dress really vary depending on the country. An Irish woman added a small, green shamrock, while an anonymous artist from Iran used red, yellow and orange thread to write “Woman Life Freedom.”
A contribution from South Africa shows a scene from the countryside, with a farmer ploughing a field, a guitar and a mother gently tending to her children.
And from northern Canada, an Inuit woman embroidered an Indigenous Medicine Wheel sometimes known as the Sacred Hoop.
“It has been used by generations of various Native American groups for health and healing. It embodies the Four Directions (north, south, east and west), as well as Father Sky, Mother Earth and Spirit Tree — all of which symbolize dimensions of health and the cycles of life,” wrote the artist, Shirley Steenberg, on the project’s website.
Ruriko Wyborn sent in a silk panel from Japan.
“Japan is famous for cherry blossom[s]. So, I put [a] cherry blossom,” she told The World. She also added a kimono and a few kanji characters meaning fortune, congratulations and dream.
Artist Macleod said the commissions’ uniqueness extends past the design to the materials used, since all of the artists used their own threads.
“So, you have everything from hand-dyed cottons to silks to sequins, there’s bits of paper on there, there is a scarab shell, there’s wool, cording, beading. So many different materials,” Macleod said.
“And I love that because it’s real, isn’t it? It’s authentic, it’s what the world is — it is diverse.”
The Red Dress being embroidered onto by refugee women from Ukraine in Warsaw, Poland. The project has become a global endeavor, with 380 people from more than 50 countries contributing to the dress.Courtesy of Kirstie Macleod
Macleod has lived in a diverse group of places, herself. While she’s based in England now, her father’s job took her family all over the world as she was growing up.
“I was born in Venezuela. We moved as a family to Barbados, Nigeria, Japan, Holland, Canada,” she said, adding that she picked up embroidery at age nine while living in Nigeria.
“I went to a craft class that was held by a really dynamic Indian teacher. And she was the one that taught me how to embroider. And yeah, just ever since then I’ve just absolutely loved it.”
Macleod went on to study art and textile design in school, and got the funding and idea for The Red Dress Project in 2009, a few years after graduation. The Red Dress was finally completed in 2023. It’s a burgundy gown with a full skirt, fitted bodice, V-neck and long sleeves.
Kirstie Macleod poses next to the Red Dress just after its completion in 2023.Courtesy of Mark Pickthall
It weighs nearly 15 pounds and still functions as a real dress. But only certain people can wear it: the people who made it.
“Just some of the embroiderers, really,” Macleod said. “I get asked by a lot of people for weddings, proms, birthdays, performances. I even got asked by a princess from Madagascar if she could wear it to her coronation. I just say no. So, I’m not interested in any of that. It’s purely for the embroideries so they can have their moment.”
Lekazia Turner is one of the embroiderers of the Red Dress and is originally from Jamaica.Courtesy of Mark Pickthall
Embroiderer Sanchez, from Colombia, hasn’t been able to see the finished dress in person, let alone wear it. But she said she feels lucky just being part of the project.
“Bringing together so many identities, cultures, backgrounds, beliefs — like, being able to be together through this project, for me, was amazing,” Sanchez said.
The main embroidery on this panel was done by Zenaida Aguilar in Mexico.Courtesy of Sophia Schorr-Kon
The Red Dress is now primarily shown across the world as an exhibit in galleries and museums. The dress has mostly stayed in the UK this year to promote Macleod’s new accompanying book, “The Red Dress: Conversations in Stitch.”
Next year, though, she’s taking it back on the road, with plans to exhibit in Australia, Rwanda and the Netherlands.
“I can’t believe it. Every day I’m like, how did this happen?” Macleod said. “Like my little project, how did it grow into this? It’s amazing. It’s humbling, very humbling.”
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