Beauty by the Beaker

Do you know truth behind terms like "non-comedogenic"? Most skincare claims are based on estimates and outdated science, 

In this eye-opening episode, cosmetic chemists Sadie and Natalie reveal the hidden flaws in skincare labeling, and why "non-comedogenic" means little without proper evidence, and how marketing exploits consumer fears.

If you have shopped for cosmetics you have probably come across the term non comedogenic, but what does that really mean? In this episode we are talking all about what it actually takes to be permitted to legally use the words non comedogenic on your product, shockingly its not much. We are introducing a new more robust term, acnegenic, which tells us more about the likelyhood of a clogged pore actually leading to acne.  We are also talking about some different ways that you can find products that work well with your skin and don't break you out. 

In this Episode we cover: 

Why the term "non-comedogenic" is virtually unregulated and how companies often label products without rigorous testing

The differences between non-comedogenic, non-acnegenic, and their relevance for acne-prone skin

How current testing methods like rabbit ear studies and acne checkers often give misleading results

The truth about FDA regulations, recent legislation like MoCRA, and why most cosmetic claims are just marketing

Practical advice on patch testing, ingredient concentrations, and how to avoid pore-clogging ingredients without falling for buzzwords

Empower you to ask better questions and make smarter choices. Perfect for skincare enthusiasts, dermatology skeptics, and anyone navigating the confusing world of beauty marketing, this deep dive will have you questioning labels and understanding what truly matters when it comes to healthy skin.

Science is still learning, and skincare brands are often a few steps behind—don't be fooled by marketing. Arm yourself with knowledge and make decisions grounded in real science, not just buzzwords.

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Most people believe certain ingredients or products cause acne, but the truth is far more complex, and surprisingly outdated. This week we are diving into the real science behind the popular non-comedogenic claim that’s been shaping skincare for over 50 years. This episode unpacks the origins of the Rabbit Ear Study, revealing why its findings are not super reliable. If you’ve ever read a label claiming “non-comedogenic” and wondered what it really means, this is your essential guide to understanding the truth about acne-causing ingredients, and spoiler: it's not what you think.

Sadie and Natalie, cosmetic chemists with over a decade of experience, break down the belief that certain ingredients block pores and cause breakouts. This idea was born in the 70s using animal testing. You’ll discover how early studies overstated the impact of individual ingredients, and why the finished product’s formulation, ingredient purity, and application hygiene matter far more than isolated components. We explore how modern science challenges the simplistic idea of “bad” ingredients, emphasizing that the overall formula matters, and not just one ingredient on a list.

Key Topics:

• The history and origins of the "non-comedogenic" claim, starting from the 1972 rabbit ear study by Albert Kligman and Otto Hills.

• The limitations and flaws of animal testing models, specifically how they overpredict comedogenicity compared to human skin.

• How formulations and the overall chemistry of a product impact its likelihood to cause breakouts, not just single ingredients.

• The myth that certain ingredients inherently cause acne, emphasizing the importance of dilution and formulation context.

• Insights into how modern studies and testing methods have evolved, including human trials and revisiting old assumptions.

• Why consumer-facing lists of "bad ingredients" oversimplify the complexity of skincare formulations.

• The influence of marketing, misleading claims, and the importance of understanding how products are tested and regulated.

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Timestamps:

00:00 - What does "non-comedogenic" really mean and its misleading origins

02:22 - The 1972 rabbit ear study and its flaws as a predictor of human acne

05:21 - Differences between cosmetic acne (acne cosmetica) and hormonal acne

10:07 - How animal models compare to human skin in skincare testing

13:28 - Revisiting the "rabbit ear" study and its relevance today

17:22 - The role of dilution and overall formulation in comedogenicity

20:34 - Limitations of small sample sizes and outdated testing methods

24:39 - Why individual ingredients are less important than the complete product

27:00 - The impact of application habits and hygiene on acne

30:36 - How marketing simplifies complex science to sell products

33:37 - Modern research and reevaluation of old theories on acne and cosmetics

35:44 - What's next: Regulation, testing, and consumer guidance

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

How do we know which skincare ingredients actually work? Do cosmetics even work? Or are over the counter topical drugs the only way to reliably treat problem skin? In this discussion episode, hosts Natalie and Sadie reveal why some treatments are prescription-only while others are OTC, and why this matters more than you think. This week we are continuing our retinol conversation, and also revisiting some of our other recent topics like PDRN and Reale Actives, and explaining why cosmetic brands have no incentive to do good scientific studies. 

Discover how the FDA's outdated definitions make it tricky for brands to bring effective ingredients to market, and learn why some companies boldly blur the lines with ambitious claims. Uncover the real science behind retinoids, PDRN, and other active ingredients, debunking myths about strength, formulation, and regulation.

We are breaking down why tretinoin is prescription-only, but other retinoids aren't.

The complex dance between FDA definitions, bioavailability, and product efficacy, and why some ingredients get labeled as drugs while others stay in the cosmetic market, despite similar effects. We’re chatting about practical tips for choosing safer, more effective skincare, whether you’re a novice or seasoned professional. 

In a world flooded with confusing claims and fluctuating regulations, knowing the difference could save you time, money, and skin misery. This episode is perfect for anyone overwhelmed by skincare choices or curious about the real science behind the products you use daily.

Join us as we navigate the regulatory retinol maze, and remember that slow and steady wins the vitamin A race. Your skin will thank you. 

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products, and we aren't afraid to bust some myths while doing it. Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Retinoids, the skincare ingredient powerhouse that everyone talks about but few truly understand. Whether you're battling acne, fine lines, or just trying to maintain youthful skin, this week we are revealing the science-backed secrets behind how retinoids work and how to incorporate them safely into your routine. Discover why some forms are more effective, how your skin metabolizes each type, and why patience is the ultimate key to getting real results.

We delve into the different types of retinoids, from Retinyl Esters, Retinol, Retinal and Retinoic Acid, we are breaking down their conversion processes and potency levels. Learn how your skin transforms these molecules into active vitamin A, and why some products require multiple steps to release their full potential, while others work instantly. Plus, find out how formulation stability and packaging can make or break your anti-aging efforts, so you can choose wisely and avoid wasting money.

We are diving into the science behind retinoids and why retinoic acid is the most potent form, 

how topical and oral retinoids differ in effectiveness and safety, and the importance of slow, consistent use to avoid irritation and purging. We explain why starting low and going slow saves you from misery and maximizes benefits. We are helping you get started by telling you about the importance of the packaging, and additional ingredients. 

This episode is for you if you have ever considered starting retinoids, have struggled with uneven tone and texture, or want a clear understanding of how these ingredients can truly transform your skin. Whether you're a skincare novice or a seasoned enthusiast, gain the confidence to make informed choices and see real results without the frustration or confusion.

Hosted by cosmetic chemists with deep expertise, this discussion cuts through the hype, explaining complex concepts in plain language. Get ready to demystify retinoids and unlock radiant, healthier skin.Your best skin journey starts here, don’t miss out! 

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products, and we aren't afraid to bust some myths while doing it. Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

PDRN is the trending skincare ingredient derived from salmon sperm that promises rapid skin repair. Is all the hype justified, or is it just another trendy ingredient with little scientific backing? Before you decide to spend your money on PDRN, this episode is a must-listen.We are Sadie and Natalie, two cosmetic chemists who love to chat. This week we are pulling back the curtain on PDRN’s fishy origins. You’ll discover the biggest hurdle when formulating with this ingredient, size limitations of molecules, and whether it truly penetrates the skin or just sits on the surface. We are breaking down the difference between topical and injectable studies, reveal why most of the science so far is weak, and question whether the ingredient is as miraculous as marketing suggests.We cover the ‘evidence’ that makes PDRN a perfect example of the “miracle ingredient” trap. Touting claims that it heals wounds, supports DNA repair, and rejuvenates skin without solid evidence. You'll learn what the real science says about skin penetration, whether plant-based PDRN is a marketing gimmick, and what ingredients are actually doing the heavy lifting in those luxury serums. Plus, get the inside scoop on why this salmon-derived component may be more wasteful than sustainable, and whether current regulations are actually protecting consumers, or just letting false claims slide.Essential listening for skincare enthusiasts, trend skeptics, or anyone tired of miracle marketing. If you're questioning the true value of the latest trend, this episode will help you cut through the hype with science-backed insights and honest analysis. Should you run from PDRN or explore its potential? Tune in to find out, and decide for yourself.Curious about how much of what you’re told about skincare ingredients is marketing magic? This episode is your guide to navigating the murky waters of beauty claims, and whether PDRN deserves a place in your routine. Get ready to rethink what “regenerative” really means, and discover what science (and common sense) have to say about this trendy ingredient.Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products, and we aren't afraid to bust some myths while doing it. Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.CORRECTIONS: PDRN is primarily sourced as a byproduct of the food industryHuman Stem Cells are not used in cosmetics, but Stem Cell conditioned media is. Go Check Out Chemist Confessions Take on PDRN: https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/pdrn-skincare-hype-vs-realityVisit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!@beautyxbeaker@natbxb@sadiebxbContact us at [email protected] thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

We are two cosmetic chemists, and in this mini episode we are chatting all about one particular TikTok it-girl, and her highly anticipated new skincare line. Of course we are going to be addressing all the controversy. There is at least one thing that Sadie, Natalie, and Alix all have in common, and thats a history with Isotretinoin (Accutaine), and we are diving into the ethics of creating and marketing cosmetics aimed at acne prone skin while not being transparent about your how you achieved your own results. 

But beyond perfect skin, we are talking about how brands use selective marketing terms to avoid conflict with the FDA. We are 'clearing up' some of the clever ways that heavy marketing implications keep brands "Free-from"OTC claims. Like what does Breaking Out Free actually mean? 

And while we dont think an 8% Mandelic Acid serum is the silver bullet to clearing cystic acne, we discuss the tricky situation that brands are put into when it comes to balancing innovation and medical claims.

And while the packaging is super cute, you can't trick us into paying $36 for 2oz of product. Do we think this is just a cash grab? Or should women be allowed to start businesses that align with their personal brand without being questioned? Find out Now!  

Products Mentioned: 

GoDeep Serum ($39): Marketing ingredients - 8% Mandelic Acid

Pore Power Cleanser ($28): Marketing ingredients - LHA & BHA

Barrier Boosting Moisturizer ($36): Marketing ingredients - Shea Butter & Ceramides

Makeup Melting Balm ($30): Marketing ingredients - Lipid-rich emollients

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products, and we aren't afraid to bust some myths while doing it. Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

This week we are jumping into a highly requested topic - synthetic food dyes. But in order to really answer the question - Do we need to fear Red 40 - we first need to go over some of the history of Dyes. It turns out humans love colors, and we have for as long as we have been around. We talk about the first synthetic dye, mauvine, which was made on accident when an 18 year old chemist was trying to make medicine out of coal tar. We also talk about the first synthetic pigment, which was a much earlier - Egyptian Blue. We are discussing the history of synthetic dyes in food. And talking about the specific reasons why Red gets so much hate. We are talking about some of the big color events that shook the food industry and led to the banning of Orange 1, Red 2. And the more recent controversy surrounding red 3. Plus we are addressing some of the common claims around synthetic dyes and reminding you that natural doesn't always equal better. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products, and we aren't afraid to bust some myths while doing it. Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!@beautyxbeaker@natbxb@sadiebxbContact us at [email protected] thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Is the guy in the logo real? In our first solo mini episode, we are going to deep dive into the story behind the brand, Burt's Bees. Burt Shavitz wasn't looking for fame, so how did he go from a self described loner to arguably the most famous bee keeper in the world? It started when a 60s hippie left his life as a street photographer for Time-Life in Manhattan. Burt describes getting his hives as divine intervention, and started selling honey from his truck. In another turn of fate, he met a woman who would take his sweet and small operation to a 900 million dollar personal care company, Roxanne Quimby.

Although today cosmetics are the brands sole focus, that certainly wasn't where this started. So what is the real story? Was it a love affair, a dynamic duo, or complete exploitation? We do our best to uncover it.

In this episode we are talking about the burts, so we needed to cover the bees. What makes the honey bee so important? We are talking about different types of bees, and how honey and beeswax are made. Is honey just bee vomit? And did this insect invent the worlds first plastic?

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products, and we aren't afraid to bust some myths while doing it. Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start

Listen to the EcoWell Podcast for great information on sustainability: 

https://www.theecowell.com/podcast/wren-montgomery

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

This week we are putting an end to greenwashing in cosmetics! (If only it was that easy) 

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products, and we aren't afraid to bust some myths while doing it. Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start

CHAPTERS

00:00: Catching up about being the luckiest girls in the world

05.59: Greenwashing! What is it? Who is doing it? Who does it affect? Breaking down some of the sneaky marketing tricks that companies use to make their cosmetic products seem better for the environment than they actually are. We are going over the 7 sins.

09:40: Sin 1, the Sin of The Hidden Trade Off. The company might be making small efforts that appear to be sustainable - is this a positive solution, or a distraction to a larger problem?  

13:59: Sin 2, the Sin of No Proof. Companies who make claims about their sustainability efforts, but don’t have the receipts. Discussing future washing, and one very big example of greenwashing: reef safe sunscreen. We hate to break it to you, but switching to mineral sunscreen isn’t going to save our coral. 

19:32: Sin 3, the Sin of Vagueness. You have probably heard of ‘clean beauty’ but what does clean even mean? Turns out, companies have found a lot of wording loopholes to market their products, and if you can’t define something you can’t deny it either. This strategy relies on consumer confusion, and allows companies to benefit from association without actually doing anything. Boo

24:04: Sin 4, the Sin of Irrelevance. This is kind of like companies giving themselves participation awards and we see it all the time. Paraben Free? Good for you! So is everyone else (mostly, and unfortunately)!  So this is when a brand will say things just to say them, does it have anything to do with their product? No. 

27:31: Sin 5, the Sin of the Lesser of Two Evils. Some things are just inherently bad. Luckily you guys are smart, so this strategy isn’t very successful. 

29:24: Sin 6, the Sin of Fibbing. This one is illegal. So it's also not common, especially in the states, because we like to sue.   

30:27: Bonus Sin 7, the Sin of Worshiping False Labels. Everything looks great from the packaging, but that's as deep as it gets.

32:17: Brownwashing, or Greenhushing. These strategies aren’t new, and consumers are already recognizing them. If they spot ‘greenwashing’ this can cause distrust in the brand. Have you ever questioned the motives behind a ‘kind’ act? This added layer of confusion doesn’t make finding environmentally conscious brands any easier. 

39:32 Combating Greenwashing: We talk about how consumers can challenge greenwashing, and have a positive impact on the earth. Micro vs macro impact, which is really important to recognize if we ever want to make a difference. Buying new things is a net negative, so the best we can do is learn to be conscious consumers! Everyone has a small improvement they can make, and a small effort from a large group of people will go a long way. 

We are leaving you with an extremely helpful source to learn more - Greenwash Action Lab: 

www.greenwashaction.com

Read the 2007 article on the sins of greenwashing: 

https://www.ul.com/insights/sins-greenwashing

Listen to the EcoWell Podcast for great information on sustainability: 

https://www.theecowell.com/podcast/wren-montgomery

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Welcome back to another Wednesday! This week we are giggling about gold. This beautiful metal has been popular throughout all of history, but why is that? In this episode we are explaining the science behind this unique material. Its variety of uses range from traditional medicine to jewelry, but does it have potential to be a skincare miracle worker? We are discussing nanoparticles, and how gold can be complexed with beneficial active ingredients - but not all that glitters is gold. Pull up a chair and laugh along with us. 

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products, and we aren't afraid to bust some myths while doing it. Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

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SHOW NOTES

03:15: Catch up: Talking about birthdays, Valentines Day, Wuthering Heights. We get a little personal about holiday expectations, and decide once again that our differences make us great! 

08:02: Important Podcast News updates! This show is still self funded, you can contribute by liking, subscribing, commenting, and if you are feeling extra generous, sharing the episode. 

10:45: The history of gold, how it's been used in cosmetics, and whether or not it is the anti-aging miracle some people claim it to be.  We give a big disclaimer for this episode, which is that it's going to be a fun one, so maybe don’t take it too seriously. 

12:14: Gold in Ancient Egypt. HThis segment is a bit hard to follow, so we we hope you are also the luckiest girl (or anyone) in the world, you’ll need it. 

17:10: Gold in Medicine: Traditional holistic medicine, originating in India and Nepal, Ayurveda, uses a gold preparation called Swarna Bhasma. This is intended to be ingested, which despite some marketing claims, is different than putting it on your skin. 

18:55: What are Nanoparticles? We are talking about some scientific advancements, and a couple not-so-scientific ones too. When it comes to active ingredients, size matters, particle size that is. And the smaller the thing, the more likely it is to pass through you, and like with all science, it's not all good or bad. 

20:45: Why do humans love gold? We are discussing this element's unique properties, and how those make it such a great material for jewelry, but also safe to eat.

24:40 Surface Plasmon Resonance, and why it makes very small particles of gold appear red or purple. We got off topic pretty quickly though. 

27:07 Properties of Gold nanoparticles make them interesting for Biomedical Research, but are they useful in skincare? High-end Gold-infused skincare. 

28:21: Is Using Gold Skincare Safe? Why it's hard to study the efficacy of gold nanoparticles. 

30:08: Revealing the secret to anti-aging. **disclaimer - lots of joking in this section. 

31:39: Humans love Gold. That's why we typically give gold to the ones we love - in the form of a wedding ring! All jokes aside: 14k is the ‘gold standard’ when it comes to jewelry. 

32:43: It's getting late, and things are starting to get extra silly. 

34:25: Gold symbolizes exclusivity. Weird, humans have always been super logical when it comes to luxury. We conclude that gold is super fun to look at, but when it comes to fixing your skin issues, your money might be better used on a more scientifically backed ingredient. 

36:43: Teasing this month's episodes, and a gold product we are both loving.