BETA 5

BETA 5

By Matt ChapmanHealth & Fitness
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BETA 5 episodes

  • Ingredients: A Second Interview with Natalia Grossman

    E17: In this first episode of Season 2, we chat with Bouldering World Champion, Natalia Grossman - about her first World Cup win earlier this season, idiotic comments on social media, preparation for competition, the practice of gratitude, and chocolate cake!

    Natalia Grossman winning her first Bouldering World Cup, in Salt Lake City: (1:42:34) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXC52wxDCGg

    Follow her on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nataliaclimbs/?hl=en


    15 min
  • Eating Disorders & The Climbing Ratio: An Interview with Kai Lightner

    E16: In this, the final episode of Season 1, we chat with Kai Lightner about the climbing ratio: strength to body weight. Kai also shares about his non-profit C4C, Climbing for Change, and the amazing work they are doing! *Please note, the issues we discuss in this episode my be triggering for some. Please see below for support resources.

    Kai's Post: "Reflections on my Rock climbing Journey:" http://www.kai-lightner.com/blog/reflections-on-my-rockclimbing-journey

    Climbing 4 Change: https://climbing4change.org/

    Support Resources for Eating Disorders: 

    US: https://www.nationaleatingdisorders.org/

    US: https://anad.org/

    CAN: https://www.eatingdisorderstreatment.ca/

    CAN: https://nedic.ca/contact/


    22 min
  • Working Out Self Love: An Interview with Daniel Ramalho

    E15: In this episode we chat with a young up-and-coming artist about his story of coming out, and how learning to value who he was became the onset of his success story. Whether or not you are a high performance athlete, we can only ever be the best version of ourselves, when we learn to love and value who we are.

    Daniel's website: https://www.danielstudio.org/art

    Daniel's Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realtimeartho/?hl=en

    13 min
  • 4 Rules for Getting Stronger

    E14: In this episode I share 4 foundational rules for getting stronger. I also share a little of my growing up story, and how I built a fitness and training methodology that stayed with me for 35 years.

    Link to the Guinness World Record for the 1 finger / 1 arm pull up:

    https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/423701-most-one-finger-one-hand-chin-ups-in-one-minute

    14 min
  • Letter to the Olympians

    E13: In this episode we explore why people always seem to trip when running away from zombies... And how this is directly connected to the Olympics and competition climbing. Why do athletes “choke” in a competitive environment? What is "pressure," and how does it affect us? We cover some essential mental skills for preparing athletes for the big event, or for preparing anyone to face the moment that counts.

    Video of Natalia Grossman on the final boulder of the World Cup in Salt Lake City: (time code: 1:42:35)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXC52wxDCGg

    12 min
  • Fear And Falling: An Interview with Nina Williams
    E12: In this episode we chat with pro climber Nina Williams. On the hit list: managing fear, practicing falling, the gremlin voice, going into the shadows, and pushing our limits! Plus Nina reveals an incredible new coaching initiative that she will be launching in the summer of 2021.
    LINK to Nina Williams on Ted Talks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUDggpV4FfE
    Nina Williams on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sheneenagins/?hl=en
    23 min
  • The Psychology Toolkit: An Interview with Andrei Mandzuk
    E11: In this episode we chat with mental performance expert and master of exercise psychology, Andrei Mandzuk. Andrei takes us through the top three skills in The Psychology Toolkit for athletes: 1. Goal Setting. 2. Visualization. 3. Focus of Attention. Get your notebook ready!
    Website:
    https://www.mzkperformance.com/
    Podcast:
    https://open.spotify.com/show/46t0QXAZV1NO5hfJhnxFfr
    YouTube:
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAljr-lM4RNCq14bh27_OXg
    24 min
  • Brain Beta: How to Learn Faster & Grow Better
    E10: In this 10th episode of BETA5, we get to know the brain - that fat lazy kid who lives in your skull. We take a close look at how neuroplasticity allows us to break through training plateaus, and to learn new and complex movements for climbing; even as we get older (meaning any age over 4 years old).
    Link to Janja Garnbret's top of W1, at the Climbing World Championships, Innsbruck 2018 (timecode: 38:10):
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxAL5UaRXJ8&t=2337s
    Link to the insanity that is competitive Jump Rope (huge benefit to train jump rope for competition climbing):
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xck4kabiKKw
    Link to Moonwalking With Einstein, by Joshua Foer: 
    https://www.amazon.ca/Moonwalking-Einstein-Science-Remembering-Everything/dp/0143120530
    12 min
  • Empty Boxes: An interview with Nathaniel Coleman

    E09: In this episode we hear from Olympian Nathaniel Coleman, on his latest World Cup experience in Meiringen. Nathaniel talks self-belief, strategies for competition climbing, and shares a powerful visualization that seems to transcend the sport.

    To see Nathaniel's Top of M4:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sO7KPBUeDWY

    Time Code: 1:43:18

    14 min

About BETA 5

From the publisher's feed

BETA 5 aims to cultivate ideas around human development and best practices for building a stronger psychology for competition and limit climbing.