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Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a position statement paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected and presented.
Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association Position Statement
By: Nick Draper, David Giles, Volker Schöffl, et al; published in Sports Technology, 2016.
*Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode:
Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbing By: Nick Draper, Jorge Couceiro, Simon Fryer, Tabitha Dickson, David Winter, Greg Ellis, Michael Hamlin, Jerry Shearman, and Chris North; published in Isokinetics and Exercise Science, January 2011.
Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share!
And please tell all of your friends who are confused and overwhelmed by the amount of jumbled and conflicting training info out there, that you have the perfect podcast for them.
Better Call Paul | Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.
Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram
Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram
If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.
Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.
View all episodes
By Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing
4.2
2020 ratings
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a position statement paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected and presented.
Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association Position Statement
By: Nick Draper, David Giles, Volker Schöffl, et al; published in Sports Technology, 2016.
*Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode:
Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbing By: Nick Draper, Jorge Couceiro, Simon Fryer, Tabitha Dickson, David Winter, Greg Ellis, Michael Hamlin, Jerry Shearman, and Chris North; published in Isokinetics and Exercise Science, January 2011.
Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share!
And please tell all of your friends who are confused and overwhelmed by the amount of jumbled and conflicting training info out there, that you have the perfect podcast for them.
Better Call Paul | Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.
Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram
Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram
If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.
Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.
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