Beyond Soap

In this episode:

A very special interview with Bernadette Morra!

—Bernadette leads one of the most exciting fashion magazine reinventions in years, with this month's gender-blind relaunch of FASHION magazine for all.

—Morra is one of the leading journalists in the Canadian fashion scene and has interviewed everyone from Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford and Gianni Versace. 

—on the cover, Morra put a selection of people she thought are helping to redefine gender and other stereotypes in fashion and beauty, including:

• Donté Colley, on the 'gram @donte.colley
• Elizabeth Mitchell, on the 'gram @mitchellgirl3 
• Ladyfag, on the 'gram @ladyfag
• Aleece Wilson, on the 'gram @oddfreckles

—Men and women have different skin, but it's not that different. There's no reason why they can't use the same sunscreen, the same retinol, the same moisturizers. Check out the episode for more!

Also:

—Sandy is excited about the first new retinoid acne drug in 20 years, which is called Aklief.

—Chan's concerned about her eyebrows—and Sandy suggests Latisse.  

Don't forget to subscribe and rate us on Apple Podcasts. It really helps us to make more episodes. Have a question? Send it to [email protected]. And check out our Facebook group by searching on Facebook for "Beyond Soap podcast."

Follow us on Instagram: @DrSandySkotnicki — @ChantelGuertin — @BeyondSoapPodcast

This episode was produced in conjunction with Ghost Bureau and audio producer Russell Gragg. Recorded at Toronto Podcast Studio.

Ever wondered why you lost that hair during that stressful spell at work? Or why a third of those strands fell out during your pregnancy? Sandy and Chan go deep on the three types of hair loss that affect one in five people. Hair loss can be caused by many reasons: pregnancy, stress, trauma, disease, treatment for disease (such as chemotherapy) or the natural aging process. Scientifically, these types are known as  male-pattern hair loss, female-pattern hair loss, alopecia areata, and a thinning of hair known as telogen effluvium. 

Here are some of the treatments and products we mentioned in the episode: 

Oral Minoxidil -- here's a great article, 10 things you need to know about minoxidil for hair loss from Dr. Jeff Donovan, a Canadian dermatologist, who's at the forefront of using minoxidil to treat hair loss. 

And here's a study from Dr. Renee A. Beach, another dermatologist using minoxidil to treat hair loss -- even in women.

Rogaine

Viviscal

Saw Palmetto

Don't forget to subscribe and rate us on Apple Podcasts. It really helps us to make more episodes!

Visit our website at beyondsoappodcast.com. Have a question for us? Send it to [email protected]. And check out our Facebook group by searching on Facebook for "Beyond Soap podcast."

Follow us on Instagram: @DrSandySkotnicki — @ChantelGuertin — @BeyondSoapPodcast

Our first listener questions episode in AGES! Sandy and Chan take their first-ever live listener question, and it's about the horrors of teen acne, and the way some simply dismiss what can turn into a life-changing problem. A question by voice memo from Nancy inquires about post-menopausal acne. "Plumpuffs" from Instagram seeks recommendations for chemical exfoliators for women in their 40s. Via Instagram, X-Martin asks why skin reactions happen with products you've used in the past without problem. Plus: @bigdunkel wonders about the timing of transitioning babies from skincare products for infants. AND whether exercise is good for the skin! 

(We love questions by voice memo—simply record them on your smartphone's voice-recorder app and email the file to [email protected].)  

In the baby skincare answer, Sandy references the commentary she wrote about Pediatric Dermatology. Here's the link: Commentary on "'Hypoallergenic', 'Sensitive Skin', and 'For Kids': Has industry improved labelling standards when it comes to sunscreens?

The anti-aging exercise effect is described by Dr. Mark Tarnopolsky in the 2015 study, Exercise‐stimulated interleukin‐15 is controlled by AMPK and regulates skin metabolism and aging. And then the New York Times' Well blog wrote up Tarnopolsky's research based on a presentation he did at a scientific conference: Younger Skin Through Exercise. 

Don't forget to subscribe and rate us on your favourite podcast app! 

Visit our website at beyondsoappodcast.com. Have a question for us? Send it to [email protected]. 

And check out our Facebook group by searching on Facebook for "Beyond Soap podcast."

Follow us on Instagram: @DrSandySkotnicki — @ChantelGuertin — @BeyondSoapPodcast

Probiotics and prebiotics are all the rage in skincare, but do these buzzwords actually mean anything? What is the microbiome? And what does it have to do with the fight against aging? To find out, Sandy and Chan interviewed Dr. Jack Gilbert (@gilbertjacka), microbial ecologist at the University of California (San Diego) and co-author of Dirt is Good: The Advantage of Germs for Your Child's Developing Immune System. 

But before we get to Jack, let's talk about Sandy's latest challenge! Chan sent her to Hoame in Toronto, to its salt cave. Interested in learning more? Check it out at hoame.ca.

Now for the microbiome! Learn more about Dr. Jack A. Gilbert: 

• His book is Dirt is Good.
• He's a professor at UCSD in Pediatrics and the Scripps Institution of Oceanography. Here's his academic profile. 
• He cofounded the Earth Microbiome Project and the American Gut Project.
• He's on Twitter @gilbertjacka  

Go deep on the microbiome:

• New Insights into the Intrinsic and Extrinsic Factors That Shape the Human Skin Microbiome
• New York Times story on a microbial therapy for eczema pioneered by one of Dr. Gilbert's colleagues: The Solution for Skin Ailments Could Be Right Under Your Nose
• Plus the research paper that inspired the NY Times article
• More about the relationship between bifidobacterium longum infantis and sticky baby diapers: Bifidobacterium longum subsp infantis CECT7210-supplemented formula reduces diarrhea in healthy infants: a randomized controlled trial
• More about the relationship between acne and the microbiome: Potential Role of the Microbiome in Acne: A Comprehensive Review

Don't forget to subscribe and rate us on your favourite podcast app! 

Visit our website at beyondsoappodcast.com. Have a question for us? Send it to [email protected]. 

And check out our Facebook group by searching on Facebook for "Beyond Soap podcast."

Follow us on Instagram: @DrSandySkotnicki — @ChantelGuertin — @BeyondSoapPodcast

Everybody's talking about the Goop Lab, the Netflix show starring Gwyneth Paltrow and her $250-million lifestyle brand—which, incidentally, deals with much of the same self-care anti-aging subject material as Beyond Soap. So we decided it would be fun to talk to the global expert on Goop and its sometime aversion to science-based therapies: Timothy Caulfield, author of Is Gwyneth Paltrow Wrong About Everything? and Relax, Dammit!: A User's Guide to the Age of Anxiety, out spring 2020. 

Caulfield also is a law professor at the University of Alberta, and maintains a really fun Twitter feed. Plus, his own TV show is really cool: A User's Guide to Cheating Death.   

For your reference, check out the Goop Lab on Netflix. (The anti-aging show is episode four.) Find Goop here. 

Don't forget to subscribe and rate us! Visit our website at beyondsoappodcast.com. Have a question for us? Send it to [email protected]. And check out our Facebook group by searching on Facebook for "Beyond Soap podcast."

Follow us on Instagram: @DrSandySkotnicki — @ChantelGuertin — @BeyondSoapPodcast

Andrea Derby received the text from her husband asking her to go to the Oscars just three weeks before last year's ceremony. And she's going again this year. We chatted with her about her dresses, makeup and her skincare routine. 

Andrea mentioned that she likes using the What Happened Last Night sheet masks the night before a big event. (Target and Amazon used to sell them, but seem to be sold out right now--let us know if you have found it somewhere else!)

Looking for a stylist to help you choose the right dress? If you're in Toronto, ask for Marlo Sutton at Holt Renfrew Bloor Street or follow her on Instagram @marlofrance. 

Want to rent a frock? We like Rent Frock Repeat and The Fitzroy. 

We got some great tips from makeup artist Amy Janisse. Follow her on Instagram at @AmyJanisse. 

Chantel also updated listeners on her challenge to use Vichy Mineral 89 Skin Booster. She's been using it twice a day, layering Dr. Roebuck's No Worries Hydrating Face Moisturizer overtop--and in just five days her moisture level has gone from 16% to 24%. 

Sandy prefers Dr. Roebuck's Pure Moisturizer for its minimal ingredients. She features it on her Product Elimination Diet website; but it's been discontinued and replaced by Dr. Roebuck's Nuddy Ultra Hydrating and Repair Cream.

Sign up for our newsletter or send us a question at [email protected]. Follow us on Instagram: @DrSandySkotnicki — @ChantelGuertin — @BeyondSoapPodcast.

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Our first-ever interview! With Victor Casale, the genius co-founding chemist behind M.A.C cosmetics AND CoverFX, about his latest skincare brand, Pure Culture Beauty. Also contest winners, why hand sanitizer is better than washing—and the best non-drying hand sanitizer. 

Beauty industry legend Victor Casale was just 19 and in his first year at University of Toronto chemistry when his girlfriend's brother, Frank Toscan, asked him whether he knew how to make lipstick. He lied, said yes and figured it out—and became the science guy who cofounded the world's most successful cosmetics company, M.A.C. Casale also recounts the behind-the-scenes origin story of his other big brand, CoverFX—and tells Sandy and Chan all about his next thing—due out in the fall of 2020. 

Thanks for listener feedback and questions from Dannyelle from Louisville and Shannon via email!

Sandy's favourite fragrance-free, non-drying hand sanitizers: 

Avagard Foam Hand Antiseptic

Avant Hand Sanitizer

We announced the winners to the three skincare contests! Thank you to Cerave, Uriage and Bioderma for sponsoring the podcast—and to everyone who entered! 

Sign up for our newsletter or send us a question at [email protected]. Follow us on Instagram @beyondsoappodcast. Sandy's on Instagram @drsandyskotnicki and Chantel's @chantelguertin.  

Question #1: Is eye cream BS?

Sandy points out that eye cream is moisturizer. If it has peptides, you may see some reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. But often, eye cream is full of hyaluronic acid, which will help make you look less dry but there's no long-term benefits.

Have you heard of this gimmicky "miracle" eye cream? Don't buy it!

We also discuss how HEV (high-energy visible or blue) light can interrupt your skin's ability to repair itself while you're sleeping and whether it's possible to block its damage by using a physical sunscreen.

Question #2: I use toner in the morning, do I also need to use it at night?

If you're using a foaming cleanser that's stripping your skin. Perhaps if your toner is lowering your pH level, it might help. Do you use a toner that's lowering the pH levels in your skin? Let us know the brand!

Question #3: What does caffeine in skincare really do?

Caffeine in beauty products are generally marketed towards: cellulite creams and products to reduce undereye puffiness/dark circles.

Caffeine has some antioxidant benefits, but most products don't contain high enough concentration of caffeine, penetrate the skin to do any good.

Question #4: Is it safe for my skin if I add a few drops of essential oils to the inside of my pajama top to add some scent?

If essential oils aren't coming in contact with your skin and don't irritate your skin, they're probably fine—but not for kids.

Question #5: What do you recommend I do to help fade a post-acne spot on my face?

If you're getting recurring acne or cysts, you should try to prevent the acne before it occurs than to deal with the spots afterward.

As for decreasing melanin production and fading dark spots, hydroquinone is the most common. In small concentrations it's the best and safest.

Question #6: I'm in my 50s and still getting hormonal acne on my chin. What to do?

Aside from taking the birth control pill (or other hormone replacement therapy), there's not much that can be done to resolve hormonal acne. (Sob!)

Question #7: Are tanning beds that bad?

Yes! They're proven to cause skin cancer. You could die. If you use tanning beds, stop. Try a glow moisturizer that subtly darkens your skin by staining the upper layers. We like Jergens products but there are lots of great ones out there. Is there a self-tanner you love? Let us know by sending us an email to [email protected].

If you have a question, send it to us!

Thanks to our episode sponsor, Uriage.

In this mini-episode, hosts Dr. Sandy Skotnicki and Chantel Guertin immerse themselves in a giant pool of parabens! Just kidding. Actually they examine the hype and hysteria around the controversial preservative. Do parabens cause cancer? Are they safe to use in skincare products? In the end, Sandy and Chan reach some wholly surprising conclusions.     

Okay, now that we have the show summary out of the way, let's wade in to PARABENS!

Parabens, one of the least allergenic and non-irritating preservatives out there, were discovered in 1924. Think of everything from shampoo to moisturizer. All of it has water in it, and anything with water can go bad, especially if it's in a humid environment like the bathroom. To avoid having to keep these products in the refrigerator, manufacturers tend to put preservatives in these products, to give them a longer shelf life and protect against bacteria and fungus. 

Four types of parabens are in use:

Methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben. 

Then in 2004, Philippa Darbre at the University of Reading, in England published a pivotal study that detected parabens in 18 of 20 samples of tissue from breast tumour biopsies. Her study didn't prove parabens cause cancer, only that they were easily detected among cancerous cells. The study was criticized for not comparing paraben levels in normal tissue, but nevertheless, the results triggered concern in the industry about the use of parabens in beauty products.

Since 2015 the EU banned two parabens in all personal care products, and these parabens are also banned in personal care products in 10 southeast Asian countries. In the US many major retailers have planned or have in place active bans or restrictions—Whole Foods bans all 4 parabens. CVS has committed to removing them in their stores by the end of this year. Target has committed to removing them in all beauty, personal care and baby products by 2020. 

But Sandy points out that the dangers from parabens is probably overblown. Health Canada, the FDA and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review have all said parabens are safe at current exposure levels when concentrations range between 0.4-0.8%. And in fact, parabens are ubiquitous in our environment and have been documented in pond water, tap water and house dust. Some naturally occurring sources of food, like blueberries, produce a type of paraben. And the exposure is higher from foods than via skincare products due to poor absorption from skin compared to foods. In an interview with L-Official, clean beauty guru Tiffany Masterson, the founder of Drunk Elephant, said she thought parabens were fine. 

And the problem is, companies still need to preserve their skincare products. Otherwise we'll have to refrigerate them. Some manufacturers started to use a product known as MI—methylisothiazolinone. But that turned out to be much more allergenic and irritating than parabens. In fact, in 2013, the American Contact Dermatitis made methylisothiazolinone its contact allergen of the year. 

Speaking of academic papers, the medical journal Dermatitis recently selected parabens as its (non)allergen of the year, saying, "Paraben reactions are quite uncommon and generally relevant. Parabens remain one of the least allergenic preservatives available. The unsubstantiated public perception of paraben safety has led to its replacement in many products with preservatives having far greater allergenic potential."

Finally, speaking of preservatives, the PAO symbol on cosmetics refers to the "period-after-opening," and refers to how long the product is safe to use once you've opened it. Learn more. 

Hey, we now have a website! Visit us at www.beyondsoappodcast.com! Subscribe to our newsletter or ask us questions at [email protected]. Don't forget to rate and review our podcast on your favourite podcast app! 

This episode was sponsored by the Silk'n ReVit Prestige Microdermabrasion Device.

In this feature episode, Sandy and Chan take on ski-trip skin care and all that entails, including how to protect your lips from winter wind, the nastiness of hot tub folliculitis and lip-balm dependency. Plus Sandy reports back on Chantel's challenge regarding the rose quartz guasha stone and a listener question on mechanical vs. chemical exfoliators!

In 2012, Sandy helped to write a book with Xiaolan Zhao, a doctor of traditional Chinese medicine. You can buy Inner Beauty, on Amazon. 

Sandy was a guest on Dr. Michael Roizen's podcast: You The Owners Manual Radio Show. Her episode drops on January 6. 

You can take the RealAge quiz here -- to determine your "real age" based on your lifestyle.

Our listener question was about mechanical vs chemical exfoliators. 

Mechanical exfoliators have little beads, seeds, or some sort of gritty substance, which "mechanically" exfoliates the dead dry skin. Chemical exfoliators use a form of acid to exfoliate. 

Here are a few chemical exfoliators we mentioned: 

Paula's Choice has many AHA and BHA exfoliating products --  and here's an interesting article about how to determine the right AHA for you, and an article about the difference between AHA and BHA exfoliators (BHAs are the little, lighter sister to AHAs).

Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Extra Strength Daily Peel

In the dermal dive, we tackled ski trip skincare. 

We discussed: 

Hot tub folliculitis (yuck!)

Protecting your skin with a barrier or skin repair cream. Here are a few that we mentioned: 

• La Roche Posay Cicaplast Baume B5
• Avene Cicalfate Restorative Skin Cream
• Bioderma Cicabio

Sandy mentioned her trip to the Magnetic North Pole with True Patriot Love foundation. You can read about the trip in this National Post article and see a picture of Sandy in the Magnetic North Pole. She mentioned that L'Oreal sponsored the trip and donated La Roche-Posay's Anthelioso SPF 60 to protect the team's skin from the sun.

Hot tip: Use a stick sunscreen so you can easily reapply it while you're on the ski hill. 

Lips: Avoid lip balms with added scent -- they dry out lips and make chapped lips worse. Lip balms we like:

Uriage Bariéderm Repair and Insulation Lip Balm

Bioderma Atoderm Lip Stick

Lanolips

Dr. Lipp

Sandy's challenge to Chantel for the next two weeks is to use the Cerave Hydrating Cleasing Bar.

If you have any questions for us, send them to [email protected].

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This episode was sponsored by:

• Uriage
• Esthederm
• Silk'n
• Bioderma