📍 Location

Mbour & Bandia Reserve, Senegal → Kaolack, Senegal (en route to The Gambia)

📝 Episode Notes

Today was supposed to be our travel day to The Gambia, but it quickly turned into an unexpected adventure. In the morning, I met a French family who had a driver organized to visit the Bandia Reserve, about 20–25 km from our location. It turns out Bandia Reserve is where most of Senegal’s wildlife can be seen, so I decided to tag along, even though it was in the opposite direction of our intended route.

On the way, we had to pass through parts of Mbour policed by the Salih Police Department. Of course, we got stopped again. This time, the issue was our back-tinted windows. I already had four previous tickets, but the officer argued those were only valid for 24 hours. Using my half-French, I eventually managed to explain that the car wasn’t registered in Senegal. After some back-and-forth, the officer canceled the ticket, and we retrieved our driver’s license, though the original officer was not happy about it. Lesson learned: avoid that route in the future.

Back on track, we reached Bandia Reserve and took a guided tour. It was incredibly fun and informative. We saw giraffes, zebras, rhinoceroses, crocodiles, and more. The facilities were very good, and though probably not cheap, it was completely worth it—without this detour, we wouldn’t have seen any of these animals in Senegal.

After the wildlife adventure, we continued our journey toward Kaolack, but only arrived around 6 p.m., which wasn’t enough time to reach The Gambia. We ended up staying at the Paris Hotel—not ideal, but it got the job done. We found a spot in town for dinner, and it was a good evening overall. Tomorrow will bring the border crossing and a longer drive to finally reach The Gambia.

⏱️ Key Moments

• 00:00 – Planning to travel to The Gambia
• 01:00 – Meeting a French family headed to Bandia Reserve
• 02:00 – Police stop in Mbour for tinted windows
• 03:30 – Resolving the ticket with half-French negotiation
• 05:00 – Arriving at Bandia Reserve
• 06:00 – Guided wildlife tour: giraffes, zebras, rhinos, crocodiles
• 08:00 – Reflection on facilities, cost, and value of the reserve
• 09:00 – Continuing the journey toward Kaolack
• 10:00 – Arrival at Paris Hotel and dinner in town
• 11:00 – Preparing for tomorrow’s border crossing into The Gambia

📍 Location

Mbour, Senegal — Hotel Coeur Maracas and the local beach/fish market

📝 Episode Notes

Today I’m at the Hotel Coeur Maracas, right on the beach in Mbour. The beach itself isn’t ideal for swimming because of all the rocks, but luckily the hotel has a small pool that came in handy. I decided to take a walk towards town and explore Mbour’s amazing fishing community.

The fishing scene here is fascinating. Boats of all sizes come in and out, with manpower to move them to and from the beach. The biggest boats stay out for four to five days, thanks to ice keeping the fish fresh, sometimes going as far as 100–200 km offshore. There’s serious competition from Chinese fishing boats, which use radar and process fish onboard, threatening the livelihoods of local fishermen.

Walking along the beach, I noticed piles of garbage, mostly plastic and fishing nets, which is concerning. At the fish market, I saw everything from huge fish to tiny ones, trucks exporting fish to various places, and people cleaning or cooking fish right on site. Between the boats, there were donkeys and even horses helping to move them. I also saw creative boat repairs using rebar to fix missing pieces — it was incredible to watch.

After a long day of walking, I returned to the hotel and had one of the most delicious fish and vegetable dishes I’ve ever eaten — a freshly cooked sole that I still remember fondly. The hotel pool was perfect to cool off after the walk, and overall, Mbour offered an incredible flavor of Africa.

⏱️ Key Moments

• 00:00 – Arrival at Hotel Coeur Maracas, on the beach
• 01:00 – Observing the rocky beach and hotel pool
• 02:00 – Walking towards Mbour town and exploring fishing activities
• 03:30 – Watching boats of different sizes and understanding their ice usage
• 05:00 – Reflection on competition from Chinese fishing fleets
• 06:30 – Noticing pollution on the beach and environmental concerns
• 08:00 – Exploring the fish market, seeing exports and fish cleaning stations
• 10:00 – Observing donkeys, horses, and boat repairs
• 12:00 – Returning to the hotel after a long walk
• 13:00 – Enjoying a memorable fish and vegetable dish
• 14:00 – Evening relaxation and reflections on Mbour’s local life

📍 Location

Dakar, Senegal → Mbour, Senegal

📝 Episode Notes

In this episode, it’s business time in Dakar. The day begins with a mission — to secure a visa for Guinea — and quickly becomes an odyssey through embassy relocations, long waits, and chance encounters. From the old embassy address to the new one near the African Renaissance Monument, every step is an exercise in patience and persistence.

Along the way, we meet Daniel from Hungary, a traveling tour guide caught in his own visa delay, and a convoy of six overlanders from xoverland.com, each chasing their own route through West Africa.

After several misdirected visits to customs offices, countless logbook entries, and the ever-present waiting breaks, success finally comes — visa in hand and customs cleared. The day ends in Mbour, a peaceful coastal town where palm trees and rocky shores bring a sense of calm after a bureaucratic marathon.

⏱️ Key Moments

• 00:00 – Arriving in Dakar for official business
• 01:15 – Searching for the Guinea embassy (and finding it moved)
• 04:00 – Meeting Daniel, a Hungarian tour guide in visa limbo
• 06:10 – Embassy visit, paperwork, and meeting the ambassador
• 08:00 – Finally getting the Guinea visa (and a WhatsApp copy)
• 09:15 – The carnet de passage challenge: navigating Dakar’s customs offices
• 12:00 – Connecting with the Exoverlander group
• 14:30 – Finding the right customs office at last
• 16:00 – Leaving Dakar and heading to Mbour
• 17:00 – A relaxing evening at a beachside hotel

📍 Location:

Mbour, Senegal

📝 Episode Notes:

It’s a quiet Sunday morning in Mbour — the kind of morning where the streets breathe slowly and the city feels half asleep. Johan and I set out in search of a proper bakery, only to discover that “bakery” here means one thing above all else: bread. We wander through a maze of baguettes, bicycles, and early risers hauling loaves across town, each bakery bursting with the scent of fresh dough but no sign of coffee.

Along the way, I find a street vendor with rows of thermoses offering hot, sugary Nescafé — simple, but welcome. The morning turns into a gentle exploration of the rhythms of local life: people working, resting, selling, and improvising. I make my way toward the China Mall — a multi-story market of everything imaginable — and later return to Brioche Dorée, where a mysterious line still snakes out the door.

A brief encounter with a horse and its owner brings a moment of local humor and perspective, before the day winds down back at the hotel — ready for another Monday on the road.

⏱️ Key Moments:

• 00:00 — A calm Sunday morning walk through Mbour
• 02:10 — The meaning of “bakery” in Senegal — endless bread, no coffee
• 04:30 — Street-side coffee from thermoses and the art of Nescafé
• 06:50 — Discovering China Mall: a world of imported goods
• 09:10 — The horse photo incident and the light-hearted exchange with its owner
• 11:00 — Reflections on generosity, poverty, and everyday encounters
• 12:30 — Wrapping up the day and preparing for Monday’s journey

📍 Location: Dakar, Senegal

🗒️ Episode Notes: October 18, 2025 — Today we left our beachside paradise in M’Bour and made our way to Dakar. It was a late morning start after picking up our laundry, and the drive took us mostly along the toll road — about 1,400 CFA this time. Dakar greeted us with its usual energy and movement, but finding our stay turned into a small adventure. Johan had found what looked like a great two-bedroom apartment in the north of Dakar, but getting there was a bit of a challenge. Even with GPS and locals' help, we couldn’t find it until the owner sent someone to meet us — turns out, we were parked right in front the whole time!

The apartment was on the fourth floor with no elevator, so it was quite the climb with luggage. It’s in a lively, tight-knit neighborhood with narrow streets and plenty of activity — the kind of place where you can hear the life of the city from your window. We had a great meal at a small local restaurant run by two women who said they were open seven days a week. Local dishes, simple and good — a perfect welcome to Dakar.

We’ll be here through the weekend to get a few things done on Monday, like handling customs paperwork and visas. For now, it’s time to soak up the vibe of this incredible city. And if you ever need a haircut in Dakar — don’t worry, there’s always someone ready, any time of day!

✨ Key Moments:

• 00:00 – Leaving M’Bour: Packed up after a relaxing stay and hit the toll road to Dakar.
• 04:10 – The Dakar Maze: Struggled to find our Airbnb despite being parked right in front.
• 07:25 – Fourth Floor Climb: No elevator, but worth it for the view and neighborhood atmosphere.
• 10:15 – Dinner with Locals: Enjoyed a traditional meal from two hardworking women running a small restaurant.
• 13:40 – Settling In: Plans for paperwork, visas, and some exploration before moving on.
• 15:30 – Everyday Life in Dakar: From narrow streets to 24/7 barbers, there’s always something happening.

Location: M’Bour, Senegal

Episode Notes: Today was a special one — my 72nd birthday! And what better place to celebrate than right here on the Senegalese coast. The plan was simple: take it easy, enjoy the warm air, and have dinner in town to mark the occasion.

It made me think back to another memorable birthday years ago — this one on the opposite side of Africa, when I was on Mount Kilimanjaro, which I’ve climbed twice. In case you’re ever planning to go, here’s a tip: you don’t need fancy gear for Kilimanjaro — it’s a walk-up mountain. What you really need is time to acclimatize, ideally five days (three and a half up, one and a half down). The climb is pricey these days, but with guides and porters included, it’s worth it for the experience.

Here in M’Bour (pronounced… well, however you manage!), life is full of movement. The traffic is chaotic, the roads outside the main ones are just sand and rocks, and navigating means dodging donkeys, goats, horses — and sometimes people. But it’s all part of the rhythm of life here.

We took care of some laundry and then ventured into town for dinner. Ordering turned into its own little adventure. I tried to order two milkshakes — one chocolate and one vanilla-coconut — but my French wasn’t quite up to the task. We ended up with a mix of both flavors in one! A funny mistake, easily fixed by ordering another.

Despite the dust and the bumps, I found M’Bour to be a lively and surprisingly tidy town. Garbage collection is an issue across much of Africa, but here, people genuinely make an effort — trucks run, and streets get cleaned.

All in all, it was a simple, happy birthday. A day full of small stories, smiles, and the sound of life around every corner. I couldn’t have asked for a better place to turn 72.

Key Moments:

1. Birthday Reflections – Turning 72 and reflecting on another memorable birthday atop Mount Kilimanjaro.
2. Kilimanjaro Climbing Tips – It’s a walk-up, not a technical climb; take your time and enjoy the journey.
3. Life in M’Bour – Navigating sandy, bumpy roads full of traffic, donkeys, and goats.
4. Laundry and Local Life – Everyday tasks like laundry and finding dinner turn into little adventures.
5. The Milkshake Miscommunication – A French mix-up leads to an accidental blend of chocolate and coconut flavors.
6. Appreciating Clean Efforts – Noticing how M’Bour stands out with its active garbage collection and cleaner streets.
7. A Perfect Birthday Abroad – A calm evening, good food, and a sense of gratitude for life’s ongoing journey.

Location: St. Louis to Saly (via Kaolack and M’Bour), Senegal

Episode Notes: Today’s journey took us from St. Louis toward Dakar — not quite into the capital itself, but close enough to handle the essential errands that come with overlanding across borders. I needed to get the vehicle’s carnet de passage officially signed off at the customs office in Dakar, since the temporary paper we had was only valid for seven days. In addition, we were hoping to organize visas for Guinea-Bissau, Guinea, and Sierra Leone, so Dakar became our next necessary stop.

The drive south brought plenty of surprises — from police stops to roadside coffees and a few lessons in local bureaucracy. In Kaolack, we paused for a short break where I discovered “long coffee,” a small but tasty cup poured back and forth between two cups from a distance to cool and froth it — a surprisingly good technique. I also found bissap, a delicious hibiscus-based drink that’s both refreshing and healthy (and even made into jam).

Of course, it wouldn’t be a day on African roads without a few run-ins with the police. The first one caught me without a seatbelt barely a kilometer after leaving — resulting in a fine of 3,000 CFA (about $5) after some polite negotiation at the police station. Not too bad. Later in Saly, another officer decided our car documents had “problems” — first a missing corner, then tinted windows — and we ended up paying another 12,000 CFA ($20) at the local station. At least the process was quick, and we managed to keep our spirits high.

By evening, we arrived at Hotel Blue Africa in Saly, a lovely spot right on the beach lined with palm trees. The ocean invited us for a quick swim, though the rocks made it tricky. Dinner was simple — grilled fish, fries, and a cold Flag beer — but after the day’s chaos, it tasted perfect.

Despite the tickets, confusion, and questionable roads (including one water-filled stretch that nearly rattled the car apart), it was a day full of stories — the kind that remind me why travel in Africa is never dull.

Key Moments:

1. Leaving St. Louis for Dakar – Setting off for the capital to sort out paperwork and upcoming visas.
2. The Long Coffee of Kaolack – Discovering a local coffee ritual involving a pour from high above — surprisingly smooth and tasty.
3. Discovering Bissap – A refreshing hibiscus drink with a tangy twist and local charm.
4. First Police Stop – Caught without a seatbelt and fined 3,000 CFA; a small reminder to buckle up fast.
5. Second Stop in Saly – A questionable citation over car documents and window tinting that cost 12,000 CFA.
6. Hotel Blue Africa Arrival – Beachfront palm trees, warm ocean water, and a much-needed place to unwind.
7. Dinner and Reflection – Fish, fries, and Flag beer to close the day on a calm note after a string of chaotic moments.

Location: St. Louis, Senegal

Episode Notes: In today’s episode, I share my first full day exploring St. Louis, Senegal — a place full of color, noise, and warmth. The day began with a small but heartwarming encounter back at Rosso: someone had washed our car without asking, and with just $2, we managed to leave a positive impression on both sides.

Once settled in St. Louis, we decided to explore the island next to ours, connected by a bridge. It’s a lively area, full of people, markets, and business — the kind of place where every corner feels alive. Interestingly, the northern part of the island actually belongs to Mauritania, so we stayed clear of the gate to avoid unnecessary border drama.

We found Hotel La Porta, where we were able to exchange money — 650 CFA per euro and 550 CFA per dollar. Senegal feels more relaxed and vibrant compared to Mauritania, and being able to enjoy a cold beer again certainly helped. The local Flag and Gazelle beers were refreshing, even if they weren’t my usual dark favorites.

Breakfast at our guesthouse came with a cultural moment — two locals having a loud conversation in Wolof while guests tried to eat. I gently mentioned it the next day, which led to some smiles and understanding. The day continued with a walk around town, some good food, and time spent relaxing on the rooftop terrace as the heat set in.

That night, I attempted a video call with Fashion Island — but in my tired state, I completely messed up my phone’s zoom setting and couldn’t undo it. A small frustration at 1:00 a.m., but one that reminded me how travel keeps you humble (and sometimes sleep-deprived!).

It was another good day — simple, lively, and full of local color. Life on the road through Africa continues to surprise me in all the best ways.

Key Moments:

1. Unexpected Car Wash at Rosso – A kind gesture at the border earns a smile and a story.
2. Exploring St. Louis – Discovering the charm and chaos of the island city, and realizing how close Mauritania still is.
3. Currency Exchange Adventure – Finding Hotel La Porta and learning the local exchange rates in CFA.
4. First Taste of Flag and Gazelle Beer – Enjoying Senegal’s local brews after weeks in dry countries.
5. Breakfast Etiquette Lesson – Navigating cultural differences during a loud morning meal.
6. Rooftop Rest and Reflection – Relaxing under the Senegalese sun and taking in the local rhythm of life.
7. Late-Night Tech Troubles – A failed video call and an accidental phone zoom that turned into a lesson in patience.

Location: Mauritania to Senegal (via Rosso Border Crossing)

Episode Notes: In today’s episode, I take you through the challenges and triumphs of crossing the Mauritania-Senegal border, a journey that tested patience, trust, and a fair bit of luck. The day began with a visit to a local fish market—an intense, bustling place full of sights and sounds. We also had the chance to try some incredible Yemeni food the night before. Then, the real adventure started: deciding which border crossing to use between Rosso or Germany.

Spoiler: We chose Rosso, despite its less-than-stellar reputation, hoping for the best. But crossing into Senegal wasn’t easy—there were multiple stops, numerous fees, and a ferry to navigate. Along the way, we enlisted the help of a trustworthy guide who made the whole process a bit less confusing (and a lot more efficient). Still, the border crossing was anything but smooth, requiring us to hand over passports, car papers, and ultimately wait in uncertainty for hours.

We also explored the unique and somewhat chaotic ferry system before finally arriving in St. Louis, Senegal, where we checked into a modest but comfortable bed-and-breakfast on a small island. After a long day of navigating bureaucracy and unmarked offices, we managed to find some calm and celebrated with a cold Heineken—something we hadn’t had in weeks.

Despite the setbacks and moments of anxiety, we made it through and learned a lot about the realities of border-crossing in this region. Tune in for the full experience and hear about the unexpected challenges and victories that made it all worth it.

Key Moments:

1. Fish Market Morning: Walking through a busy fish market in Mauritania and taking in the sights of countless boats and fish.
2. The Border Dilemma: Choosing between Rosso and Germany for the border crossing and opting for Rosso despite its tough reputation.
3. The Trustworthy Guide: Meeting a local on a motorbike who helped us navigate the convoluted process of leaving Mauritania.
4. The Ferry Crossing: Crossing the river on a makeshift ferry that required driving straight through the water.
5. Document Drama: Handing over passports and car papers, with anxiety building as we waited for hours to get everything sorted.
6. Celebration in St. Louis: After a long, intense day, finally arriving in St. Louis, Senegal, and celebrating with a cold Heineken in a cool, calm spot.
7. A True Test of Patience: The border crossing took about four hours, full of uncertainty and tension, but we made it through and ended the day in a new country.

📍 Location:

Nouakchott, Mauritania

📝 Episode Notes:

Good day! October 13th brought a mix of everyday challenges and new discoveries in Nouakchott. Signing up for a hotel turned out to be an adventure in itself. Johan usually finds something on the way and books it for a night, only to find out the actual cost on site. Today, at the Aloe Amirah Hotel, they quoted €110 at the front desk, while Johan had secured a deal online for about €72. Trying to extend the stay proved tricky, as common sense wasn’t exactly prevailing on the hotel’s side.

Next up: refueling. Diesel is available everywhere, but paying for it? That’s the real puzzle. We tried to use a VISA card at multiple stations—ten attempts, all “cash only.” Finding a bank or money exchange became the next mission. With some help from our electronic devices, we explored much of Nouakchott, only to arrive at the Chosin Bank 15 minutes after it closed. Eventually, we found a place with a favorable exchange rate, giving us enough cash to finally fill the tank.

Nouakchott is a bustling, intense city. People are always on the move, though finding a good coffee spot is another story. In the evening, sitting with a coffee in front of our hotel made the day feel complete.

Of course, the day included a small mishap: I missed a stop sign, and a local policeman noticed. A minor payment later, and that little adventure was resolved quickly—just part of traveling in Mauritania!

Thanks for joining me on another day of discoveries, frustrations, and small victories.

⏱ Key Moments:

• 00:00 – Checking in at Aloe Amirah Hotel and navigating online vs on-site rates
• 01:10 – Searching for diesel and the challenges of paying with a card
• 02:05 – Exploring Nouakchott while trying to exchange money
• 03:15 – Successfully exchanging currency and filling the tank
• 04:10 – Observing the intensity and rhythm of Nouakchott
• 05:00 – Evening coffee at the hotel to unwind
• 05:30 – Minor traffic incident and dealing with a local policeman