Location: Mozambique

Summary:

Today I left Maputo after spending a bit of time exploring the city. Following Rick's suggestion, I visited the Tunduru Gardens near Independence Place, which made for a nice walk. I was really impressed by the Maputo-Katembe Bridge connecting southern Mozambique to the capital, so I decided to drive across it. Catembe itself didn't have much going on — no improved roads besides the main one — and it cost me 200 of the local currency for the round trip. Still, it was a fun drive and I was glad to extend my reach to the southern point of Mozambique. After that, I followed the coast toward Xai-Xai (spelled X-A-I, X-A-I). The distance was manageable and the coastal scenery was absolutely stunning — hard to put into words. When I arrived, I learned Xai-Xai has two parts: an inland section and a beach section. I opted for the beach area. Near the Holly Motel, a local person eagerly tried to show me around and steer me to other accommodations. We followed some sandy paths and he showed me a few rooms I passed on, plus another hotel that was too expensive and fully booked anyway. I ended up back at the Holly Hotel, which worked out perfectly. It had a restaurant on-site, which I always appreciate because I can just park the car and be done for the day. The area in front of the hotel was a big open square and very quiet. The beach was interesting too, with natural barriers creating calm pools where you could get into the water without dealing with the surf. Driving beyond the hotel through the sandy streets was really enjoyable — the sand was packed hard enough that it wasn't a problem. No rain either, which helped. Another fascinating and exciting day exploring coastal Mozambique.

Location: Eswatini

Summary: Today, Friday March 27th, I had an evening meeting planned with Rick, his wife Rachel, and daughter Claire. I first met Rick in Angola at the Flow Hotel — he works for the Canadian High Commission, which covers Angola and Eswatini from their base in Mozambique. Since I was only about 2 kilometers from their place, and Rick warned me that Friday afternoon traffic would be terrible, I decided to walk rather than drive. It turned out to be a great decision. Walking toward the waterfront, I got to enjoy the beach scenery, see little fishing boats bobbing in the water, and watch fishermen repairing their nets. I also noticed long lines at a gas station — apparently fuel prices are about to go up and there are concerns about potential shortages, so everyone was rushing to fill up. I was glad I wasn't stuck in that traffic for a mere 2-kilometer drive. The beach area had some impressive hotels, a casino, and people selling art. I eventually reached the compound where Rick's family lives — a protected area with fancy homes arranged by the embassy for their staff. Before arriving, I grabbed a coffee at a place across the street from their compound. The visit itself was wonderful. It was great to reconnect with Rick and get to know Rachel and Claire better. We covered a lot of ground, sharing stories about their embassy life and my travel experiences across the continent. It was a really enriching exchange of perspectives — someone working in an official diplomatic capacity versus someone like me who's just traveling around Africa. I want to thank them again for having me over. It was a fantastic evening, and I'm grateful for the hospitality and conversation.

Location: Eswatini

Summary: Today was March 26th, and I had about 300 kilometers ahead of me to reach Maputo in Mozambique. Knowing that border crossings take time, I opted for an early start and was grateful the restaurant accommodated me with an early breakfast, so I left close to 8 in the morning. I chose a longer route through a place called Piggs Peak because the name sounded intriguing and the map suggested beautiful scenery. And it delivered — the scenery was absolutely stunning. Piggs Peak itself is a nicely appealing town, though I wouldn't necessarily visit just for the town. It's the landscape before and after that really takes your breath away. Soon I entered sugarcane country. About 60 kilometers ahead, a sign announced a sugarcane museum, so I kept my eyes open. Shortly after, the paved road ended and turned to dirt, which slowed things down to about 30-40 kilometers per hour, but the roads were still manageable. The hills covered in sugarcane were glowing and the scenery was astounding. Eswatini also has a lot of pine trees and is big on producing building materials. I saw lots of processing operations and trucks loaded with cut wood. At the sugarcane museum, I met an interesting gentleman who had been working there for 8 years. My main takeaway was learning about two methods of harvesting sugarcane — one where they burn the fields first to reduce the volume before cutting and transporting, and another where they cut it green. I had no idea they would burn it first. Leaving Eswatini was easy, but since I was heading to Mozambique instead of back to South Africa, I needed my Carnet de Passage signed off. The border official seemed unfamiliar with the process, but I helped him through it. Entering Mozambique was a different story. I had to buy insurance for 1,700 meticals (their currency, which trades at about 4 to 1 South African rand). I also paid a road tax — supposed to be 100 rand but ended up being 200, though that's only about 3 extra dollars. Finding my way into Maputo was slow going since it's a massive city, and I had accommodation booked near the center. Pre-booking was mandatory — Mozambique requires a first-night reservation as a condition for entry. I had booked two nights based on my plans once I arrived. Another wonderful day on the road. They just keep coming.

Location: Eswatini:

Summary:

Today, March 25th, I left the Waterside Lodge and headed into town for breakfast — sausage rolls, or saucijzenbroodjes as the Dutch call them. My first destination was the Mahamba border crossing, where I entered Eswatini from South Africa. The process was simple: just passport stamps for leaving South Africa and entering Eswatini. I learned that Eswatini has its own currency but accepts South African Rand at equal value, which is convenient. However, South Africa does not accept Eswatini money in return, so it's good to be aware of that. The countryside in Eswatini is beautiful. In the north there's a lot of sugarcane, while the south has more cattle. Near Manzini, I spotted a sign for a place called House on Fire and decided to stop. What an amazing venue! It hosts the Mountain Bushfire festival, one of Africa's seven big music festivals. The site features restaurants, gift shops, mountain views, and a huge lawn that can accommodate massive outdoor concerts. They were preparing for an upcoming event, though no festival was happening at the time. I really enjoyed spending time there. I then made my way to Lobamba, which is near the capital and where most tourist activities take place. I stayed at the Montenga Lodge, which turned out to be a fantastic place — its own restaurant overlooking lush greenery, a swimming pool I made use of, friendly staff, and a reasonable price. There was a bit of a climb to reach my room, but that was fine. In the evening, I explored a nearby touristy area with local carvings, crafts, and food. I didn't buy anything since I don't want to carry extra stuff, but it was a fun atmosphere. I also had a great conversation with a gentleman who works for an investment firm with stakes in KFC and grocery stores. He usually flies in and out the same day for business but had more meetings this time. Overall, the accommodations and environment in Eswatini have been wonderful. It's a pleasure to travel through this part of southern Africa.

Location: Lesotho

Summary:

On March 24th, I had a cloudy but pleasant driving day. My Garmin suggested a southern route with more freeways, which seemed fine given the overcast skies. My other navigation systems proposed northern routes, but neither had particularly interesting features, so I went south. The estimated travel time seemed high, but it actually took much less time than indicated — around 5 hours to reach Mkhondo, also known as Piet Retief. I stayed at the Waterside Lodge, a large property that also features the Grotto restaurant, designed to look like an actual grotto. There was significant road construction happening right in front of the lodge. When I chatted with the owner, he explained that the construction didn't really affect lodge bookings, but it hurt the restaurant business during the day since townspeople avoided the area. As a result, they only opened the restaurant at 5:30 in the afternoon. Despite the construction, the lodge turned out to be a lovely spot. It sits on a lake with interesting birds on an island. The owner has a large red building where he keeps his car collection — he's clearly a car enthusiast — and another large building used for weddings. The property was very tranquil with plenty of space for a generous walk. The town of Mkhondo itself is pretty basic, but it served as a good stopping point. It was a quieter day overall, but that's what makes the more exciting days stand out. It all evens out in the end.

Location: Lesotho

Summary:

Today, March 23rd, I wrapped up my stay and headed for the border crossing from Lesotho into South Africa. Leaving Lesotho was easy, but entering South Africa again proved a bit tricky since my original entry was on an emergency passport, which confused the border officials. We got it all sorted out eventually. The first town I passed through was Fouiesberg — a small, quiet place. Along the way, I picked up a hitchhiker named Ben, who was originally from Lesotho and wanted to get to Harrismith. My main goal for the day, though, was to get a feel for Clarens, the next town. Ben was happy to hop out there and try for another ride. In Clarens, I stopped to fill up on diesel, but the power went out mid-fill! I waited about half an hour while they brought in a generator to get the pumps working again. I walked around town and visited a bakery, but the whole town was without power and wouldn't have it back until around 4 PM, so my visit was cut short. Back on the road toward Harrismith, I found Ben still waiting for a ride, so I picked him up again. His English was limited, but we managed well enough. We stopped at a national park area with incredible scenery and had coffee at a shop Ben knew about. The lodge there looked impressive from the outside, though we didn't get to visit it. The highlight was a cultural village exhibit showing how people traditionally lived in Lesotho. I paid for Ben to see it too. It walked us through different stages of house building and explained that men in Lesotho can have up to 10 wives, with houses arranged in specific locations for each wife. Apparently, the current king of Lesotho is the second of 67 children from the same father — truly mind-blowing. As we approached Harrismith, Ben pointed out a place to stay near a Wimpy restaurant, which is a common chain in South Africa. We found the spot, which turned out to be a great shopping area with plenty of food options. I enjoyed a delicious lamb pie for dinner. Ben headed off to his place up the hill from where we were. The scenery throughout the day was absolutely stunning. South Africa continues to amaze me. Thanks for being along for the ride!

Location: Lesotho

Summary:

I woke up on March 22nd in a cold round brick hut with a grass roof in Lesotho. They had offered to light a fire the night before, but I declined since I was only up for about 15 minutes before bed. The place had a solar-powered ceiling light and a generator running from 6 to 10 in the evening — quite comfortable given the circumstances. The leader of the Dutch mission group, who also drives a Land Cruiser, noticed my mud flap had come loose and fixed it with spare nuts and washers he happened to have. He didn't even tell me until after — what a helpful gesture! We all had breakfast together and then loaded up to head to a small church where local shepherds gathered for a service. The shepherds walked in from nearby houses over the course of the service. We sang, talked, and they even invited me to say a few words, which was truly moving. The pastor, who is from Lesotho, translated everything from English into the local language and seemed to do a wonderful job. After saying goodbye, I was the first to head out across Lesotho — truly the kingdom in the sky. The road was amazing and stayed paved as it wound around peaks at about 9,000 feet elevation. There weren't many villages along the way; I can only recall one significant settlement. I was heading to Butha-Buthe on the other side of Lesotho. By the time I arrived, I had descended quite a bit in elevation. Unfortunately, all the accommodations I knew about seemed to be fully booked. Since I was close to South Africa, I decided to head that direction and keep my eyes open. Sure enough, just outside town I found the Caladon B&B a little off the main road. They had a room available, and the lady running it was very enthusiastic about hosting guests — breakfast was included too. All in all, it made for two wonderful nights in Lesotho. I've only seen a sliver of this beautiful country, and there's so much more to explore. Maybe another time, who knows. Thanks for coming along!

Location - South Africa

Summary:

Today, March 21st, turned out to be one of the most special days of my journey. I've been making a point to keep my diesel tanks topped up — my Land Cruiser holds 180 liters across two tanks, and with concerns about diesel availability, I try to refuel about 60 liters after every day of significant driving. My first stop was in Heimveld at the Country Goat Cafe. The owner came right outside when she spotted my orange Land Cruiser, and it turned out her cafe sign is the exact same shade of orange as my vehicle! She was thrilled and we took a photo together with the car and the sign. The weather wasn't great, and I wasn't sure I'd get good views on Sani Pass. But after checking the forecasts and seeing no improvement for several days, I decided to just go for it rather than wait around. After a wonderful lunch at the cafe, I headed for Sani Pass. The road was paved all the way to the South African border post, but from there to the top — about 10-15 kilometers — it was unpaved rocks, getting steeper and steeper with many switchbacks. The silver lining of driving through the clouds was that I couldn't see the terrifying drop-offs beside me. It was absolutely mind-blowing and the steepest climb I've ever done with this Land Cruiser. I felt like a mountain goat. About 10 four-wheel drives passed me coming down — part of organized 4x4 tour groups. This is definitely not a road for anything less than a proper 4x4. I made it to the top by mid-afternoon and crossed the border into Lesotho, which was straightforward. A helpful border agent even assisted me since my steering wheel is on the opposite side. To my pleasant surprise, the road was paved again once I crossed into Lesotho. I found a lodge just 1-2 kilometers from the border. A church group of 10 people from City Hill Church in Durban was staying there, and fortunately one cabin opened up for me when a guest didn't show. My motorcyclist friend on the BMW 1250 never appeared — I suspect he wisely decided not to attempt Sani Pass after his recent accident. The evening became truly magical. I joined the church group on their mission to a small church about 5 kilometers away, where they hosted dinner for local shepherds. This group visits three times a year to support a local pastor who ministers to the shepherds. The gathering featured testimonies, guitar music, singing, and the shepherds even used their sheep-herding whistles as part of the songs. It was a deeply moving, once-in-a-lifetime experience. I met fascinating people, including a 14-year-old girl named Ella visiting from England and a woman of Indian descent who owns an insurance agency in Durban. What a privilege to be part of such a special day.

Location: South Africa

Summary:

Today is March 20th and I started the day at Elliot/Koa where I chatted with a group of 5 or 6 guys who had arrived in the dark with two four-wheel drives. They had been scaling mountain passes and having a blast. They were very interested in my car and amazed that I had driven it all the way from the Netherlands, which always feels great to share. My destination for the day was Køgstad, and the scenery along the way was absolutely mind-blowing — though I can only share a few pictures to give you a sense of it. When I arrived near Køgstad, I stopped at a lovely riverside coffee place that also sold plants. It had been in operation for about two years and the people were incredibly friendly, so it was a great spot for a coffee and a bite to eat. Across the street there was a lodge that didn't look very promising, but I decided to stay there anyway. The service was minimal, but it was situated by a small lake, and when it started raining, the sound of rain on the roof made it a really atmospheric place to be. It was also a place where I could have dinner, which is always a bonus because once I settle in somewhere, I prefer not to have to drive again. I didn't get to properly explore Køgstad that day — that was saved for the next morning. But this trip continues to be incredibly special. Every day brings something new and exciting, and I'm grateful to have you along for the ride.

Location: South Africa

Summary:

Today, March 19th, I left East London and headed inland rather than continuing along the coast. The reason for this change of plans was based on conversations I've had with locals about the dangers further down toward Durban, where travelers have been sidetracked off the road and robbed. Since that's already happened to me once, I decided to take a safer route and bypass those risky areas. My destination for the day was Khowa (also known as Elliott), which is getting closer to the Lesotho border. There wasn't much in the way of accommodation in town, so I ended up staying at a lodge just outside Khowa that was part of a farm. I noticed at least four donkeys on the property, and the owner is quite the multitasker—running both the restaurant and lodge while also operating a tire shop in town. Never a dull moment! The mountains in the area are absolutely mind-blowing. They appear to be covered in grass and are truly fascinating to look at. The scenery alone made the inland detour worthwhile. Later, a motorcyclist pulled in and set up camp. He turned out to be from Port Elizabeth, a major industrial city. He works for a company that manufactures axles for cars—they even export them. He's been doing that work for 21 years and has a wealth of knowledge about the industry. We had a great conversation that touched on the challenges of hiring in South Africa. He explained how at some point, the standards for certain school tests were lowered to help more people pass, but he acknowledged that this approach ultimately backfires when it comes to job readiness and qualifications. He was riding a BMW 1250 and was on a multi-day ride away from home, planning to visit several towns that were also on my route. He mentioned wanting to climb Sani Pass on Saturday, which happens to be on my schedule too. We had a really great time talking and I genuinely enjoyed his company. Looking forward to what tomorrow brings!