Location: Malawi

Summary:

Today I made my way to Blantyre, Malawi. I had changed my original plans to head north right away because I now have an engagement on Sunday the 12th to meet someone at the airport in Lilongwe, the capital. This gave me time to visit Blantyre and sort out a few things. The drive wasn't too long, which I appreciated because it meant I arrived in the early to mid-afternoon — a great time to find accommodation. The road had some potholes but nothing compared to the day before, and the scenery was never boring. Every country has its own flavors, and the street scenes in Malawi are no exception. Blantyre turned out to be more of a spread-out collection of little villages rather than a proper city. There isn't much of a downtown — just a busy area and that's about it. I found my way to the Chinyonga Guesthouse, taking some rough roads to get there. It's situated on a hill with lovely territorial views from the rooms, a small swimming pool, and built-in exercise from all the steps you have to climb to reach the rooms. It was reasonably priced too. The receptionist told me she started working there in 2012 when they only had 2 rooms, and now they have 14 with plans to add 2 more. Very friendly people — it was a great choice. At the guesthouse I met Eros, a Belgian who works in Germany and runs bubblesforfun.com. He's a street bubble performer who has been doing it for many years, including time in South America. At 45, he's now looking to settle down and find a more permanent situation. We had interesting conversations, including about my plans to sell my car. He connected me with a friend named Andrew in Lilongwe who suggested I just leave the car there and not worry about it. I think I'll need a bit more information than that before making any decisions. The guesthouse served dinner at their small restaurant, which is just for guests on an occasional basis. I always appreciate that since it means I don't have to drive anywhere. I also took a walk higher up the hill to enjoy more views. Blantyre is a fascinating place, but it's not really a city in my book. A good day overall.

Location: Malawi

Summary:

Today was an exciting and intense day as I drove from Tete, Mozambique, to cross into Malawi — hopefully my last country with the car. The road to the Zobue border, the N304, was a paved road that had never been maintained, making it full of terrible potholes. Honestly, a well-maintained sand road would have been better. Along the way, I picked up a lady with five little kids and gave them a short ride of about 5 to 10 minutes, which was a really fun moment. Once I hit the N7, the road improved significantly for the last stretch. At the border, leaving Mozambique was straightforward as usual. The bigger question was whether Malawi would grant me a visa on arrival, since their online information is a bit contradictory — they say visa on arrival is available but also suggest getting one online beforehand. Fortunately, they did offer visa on arrival at this crossing, but they needed $50 US in bills dated 2017 or later. I had no idea there was a year printed on every bill! Some of mine were from 2013 and 2007, withdrawn from ATMs in Liberia where they weren't as particular. After some running around to get proper change, the friendly border staff got it sorted. Next came the Carnet de Passage process. A helpful local walked me through all the offices I needed to visit. He was a religious man and asked if I was Christian. When I asked about payment, he said I could give whatever I wanted. My stay and insurance were both set at 30 days, and the insurance cost 150,000 Kwacha. A money changer gave me 3,000 Kwacha per euro without even negotiating — the bank rate was about 2,200, though I knew I could have gotten 4,000 elsewhere. The insurance was processed digitally with just a windshield sticker — impressively advanced. I gave my helper €10, which is a lot in Malawi, though he asked for €20. I felt an hour of work was fairly compensated. By the time everything was done it was dark, but I only had a few kilometers to drive to Mwanza where I found a decent hotel with a room available. Dinner wasn't formally offered, but I managed to order a bowl of soup at the outdoor bar. A very intense but rewarding day of border crossing and arriving in a new country.

Location: Mozambique

Summary:

Today on April 5th, I left Guru and headed for Tete, Mozambique — a fair distance to cover. While having a bite on the main street, I struck up a conversation with a container truck driver who was doing the Beira to Lilongwe route via Tete. He shared that he carries enough fuel for the return trip, using between 850 to 1,050 liters depending on whether he's hauling a loaded or empty container. It was a fun exchange. The scenery along the way was gorgeous — rivers where locals were doing laundry and washing, and mountainsides with fascinating features. I picked up a young lady named Mita along the way. Around lunchtime, she suggested we stop to eat at a place she knew. It was further along than I'd planned, but the chicken was excellent. The real limitation on my end is my Portuguese — I haven't spent enough time improving it, and being able to communicate truly makes a world of difference. Mita was also heading to Tete, and I managed to communicate that I was looking for a hotel. I thought I'd made it clear she didn't need to help me find one, but she had other plans. She ended up directing me all around town, across a bridge over the Zambezi River and a very long way out to a hotel she recommended. I didn't stop there though — I just wanted to drop her off at her destination. We ended up back near where we entered town, which is where she needed to be. Better Portuguese would have smoothed things out, but she was a nice person regardless. After dropping Mita off, I found a place to stay right on the Zambezi River. They had a reduced price of about 30% off, which made it affordable for me — normally it would be out of my budget. It was absolutely worth it. The Zambezi River in the background made for a beautiful picture. Tete has two bridges over the Zambezi, which is quite something. I had a fascinating conversation with the hotel manager. The property is owned by a large hospitality holding company listed on the South African Stock Exchange. He rotates between their properties, typically staying 5 to 10 years at each. When he arrived at this one, 80% of occupancy had come from mining workers. But the mining company changed hands, and the new owners decided to house workers closer to the mines. Overnight, 80% of the business disappeared. He managed to pivot and reposition it as a corporate hotel, attracting companies willing to pay more to keep their employees well-rested. There was also a Sunday afternoon singing event when I arrived, which I really enjoyed. Experiencing more African music was something I'd hoped for on this trip, though it requires staying longer in the right places. I had a great night in room number 8 by the Zambezi and caught up on some paperwork. Thanks for coming along!

Location: Mozambique

Summary:

Today on April 4th, I explored Chimoyo, which turned out to be a pleasant town with a lovely square, vivacious paintings and murals, and an interesting market. After that, I set off toward Tete, but at nearly 400 kilometers away, it was too far for a single day's drive. Finding accommodation along the route proved challenging as nothing was showing up on my maps. The countryside along this route was absolutely amazing. This is the main supply route from Beira to Tete and onward to Malawi, so I saw countless fuel trucks, container trucks, and goods vehicles. Seeing all those fuel trucks gave me some hope that fuel supply in Malawi might be okay. The road conditions reminded me why it's critical never to drive at night here. I came across one enormous pothole — a meter across and a meter deep — marked only by a piece of wood with a reflective safety vest. A large truck had gone off the road right at that spot. The truck drivers on this route are truly skilled magicians, and I respect their ability to navigate these conditions. I eventually stopped in a small town called Guro, where I found a basic but very reasonably priced pension. Dinner was a tiny hamburger from a takeout place, as there were no sit-down restaurants to be found. Being a Saturday, the town was bustling with vendors selling clothes, shoes, and all sorts of goods along the main street. The nightlife was loud — music blasting from multiple places that I could hear from my room well into the night, and it started up again early in the morning. Free entertainment, as I like to think of it! Despite my limited Portuguese making interactions a bit more challenging, the people were always nice and friendly. Guro was a fun little town to stop in, and I'm looking forward to continuing my journey tomorrow.

Location: Mozambique

Summary:

Today I had an early start, joining the scientists for a 7 o'clock breakfast near the hotel. Three of them went to the river to ask the police about doing volume tests, but after two hours they found out it wasn't permitted despite having other permits. They took it in stride and waited for their second vehicle to arrive. I decided to head out on my own toward a mango farm recommended by Chris, run by a Dutch guy named Willy Gaus. I needed to turn west at Chibamo towards Dombé to find the place. The roads were a mixed bag — some stretches were fine, others quite challenging. After the turnoff at Chibamo, it became a sandy track which slowed me down considerably. I found the mango farm but was disappointed to learn the owners wouldn't be back until next week due to the Easter holiday. They were apparently off on a short trip somewhere in Mozambique. I looked at the camping options but decided since my main goal had been to speak with the Dutch owners and learn about their operation, there wasn't much point in staying. I did get to see some of the young mango trees they were growing, so the visit wasn't a total loss. I continued on toward Dombé and picked up three kids who needed a ride about 10 kilometers. From Dombé, I headed north toward Chimoio. The road turned out to be surprisingly good, especially the first stretch — smooth with no potholes. The scenery after Dombé was absolutely astounding, just as Chris had recommended. Winding roads through lush green hills — stunning country. As I got closer to Chimoio, potholes started appearing, but I made it all the way. I found Villa Kilimanjaro hotel, oddly built at the end of an unpaved, poorly maintained dead-end street. It's been in business about 8 years. It wasn't perfect but served my needs well — affordable, included breakfast, and had a restaurant. Dinner was an interesting experience. They didn't serve alcohol, so someone helped me find a nearby bar for a beer while dinner was prepared. The lady brought out three frozen fish for me to choose from, and I had mine prepared with noodles. It was delicious and incredibly cheap — I'm not sure how they make any money. My biggest regret continues to be not speaking Portuguese. Knowing just a word or two isn't enough for real conversation, though I manage to get things done somehow. Note to self: brush up on Portuguese before visiting another Portuguese-speaking country. Another great day in Mozambique!

Location: Mozambique

Summary:

Today, April 2nd, I decided not to stay another night at my accommodation and instead explored the town before heading out. I drove to the beach and witnessed something amazing — it was low tide and a long line of people were standing in the water, pulling in fishing nets that had been set out by boat. It was quite a sight. I also stumbled upon the Kilimanjaro Hotel and Cafe, which grabbed my attention since I climbed Kilimanjaro twice back in the day with Encounter Overland groups. The cafe turned out to be high quality with great coffee. I then left Vila Nkulos heading north towards Chimoio. The road was brutal — endless potholes, speed bumps, heavy truck traffic, and fast-moving buses. The small buses in Mozambique are unique because they have little trailers for passengers' belongings. I couldn't find any hotels along the way and was prepared to camp if needed. Then I reached the town of Save, and sure enough, there was a Hotel Save right on the Save River, which flows all the way from Zimbabwe. But the real surprise came when I arrived just 30 minutes after a scientific expedition group had checked in. They were part of the Great Spine of Africa by the Wilderness Project. This team takes on rivers one at a time using canoes, with scientists doing research along the way. Two women scientists, Lauren and Kili, led the research, supported by experienced paddlers familiar with whitewater conditions. They had drones and all kinds of equipment. The ground crew consisted of two brothers driving support vehicles, staying as close to the river as possible during the three-week expedition in case of emergencies. The whole trip had actually been 27 days because they had to walk to the river to start. They had landed about two hours from Save that morning and were now waiting for their second vehicle before heading back to Zimbabwe. The timing of meeting them was incredible — I arrived just half an hour after they did. They invited me to dinner down the street where we had chicken. One of the guys helped me arrange a room since he could translate between English and Portuguese. The hotel didn't have Wi-Fi, but the expedition team had Starlink with them, giving them internet access anywhere. The group was wonderfully diverse — one scientist from Kenya, one from Cape Town, and the rest from Zimbabwe and Zambia. What an absolute privilege to have this encounter. These are the moments that make this trip so special.

Location: Mozambique

Summary:

Today was April 1st, 2026, and I was trying to leave Tofu in Mozambique. When I tried to start my car around 10 o'clock, the battery was completely dead. I have three batteries in my vehicle, and one was new from the Netherlands, but a beeping sound I'd been hearing turned out to be a low battery indicator. Sasha helped by asking a neighbor who had a jump-start box, but it wasn't fully charged. Luckily, someone with a Defender showed up at the Peri Peri place and helped jump-start me. I finally got going around 11 o'clock and took a beautiful detour on unpaved sandy roads off the hill. I switched to my sub-tank for diesel and headed to refuel, since fuel scarcity is becoming an issue in Mozambique and could be worse in Malawi, my next destination. At the Petro Moc station, they only let me buy 20 liters. After fueling, I turned off the engine—and it wouldn't restart. No power at all. Not even jump-starting worked this time. But it couldn't have happened at a better place. The gas station owner arranged for a car electrician to come help. When the first mechanic couldn't fully resolve it, the owner found an even more experienced one. Using simple testing methods like a bulb and wires, they determined that my second battery was extremely weak. The gas station actually sold batteries and had the right kind—about 12,000 Meticais (around $200 USD). The mechanics also fixed a front light that wasn't working properly, and I happened to have a spare bulb of the right kind. When it came time to pay, the station owner made things incredibly easy. He told me to just pay him 20,000 Meticais by credit card and he'd pay the mechanics their 8,000 in cash. What an incredible gesture of kindness. Despite losing about 3.5 hours, I decided to push on to Vilankulos. I arrived after dark with road construction making things challenging, but I found a guest house at a reasonable price with food available. What an amazing day—angels were truly looking out for me.

Location: Mozambique

Summary:

Today was March 31st, and I had been hoping to take another whale shark boat trip so I could capture some photos from a different angle. Unfortunately, high tides influenced by the moon and incoming rain clouds meant the owners cancelled the trip. So that plan literally fell in the water. Instead, I ended up at the Brunching Whale, a little coffee place in Tofo, where I ran into Anouk from Switzerland. She's staying at the same place I am and has taken six days off from her incredible cycling journey. Anouk traveled through Morocco for a month along the coast, made it to Marrakesh, then flew to Nairobi, Kenya with her bicycle. From there, she's been cycling through Rwanda, Burundi, Tanzania, Malawi, and now Mozambique, with the goal of making it all the way to Cape Town. She's incredibly determined and a lot of fun to be around. While at the café, we also met Jorge from Spain and his girlfriend from France, though they actually live in Portugal. We hit it off and made plans to have dinner together that evening to share more stories. When evening came, we headed to a place that was supposed to have live music, but it was completely packed — apparently a wedding party had taken over the venue. Then through conversation, we discovered that Heidi, someone I had met before, was actually Jorge and his girlfriend's landlord. They had rented a place from her for two weeks, so they knew exactly where Heidi's restaurant was. We headed there instead and found a quiet spot with great ambience and plenty of room, even though there was no live music. We had a wonderful dinner, and eventually Heidi herself showed up, which led to even more great conversation. If you're ever in Mozambique, Tofo is definitely a place worth visiting. It has an exciting, welcoming atmosphere. Heidi, who is originally from Germany and has lived in the US, has been in Tofo for about 20 years now. You might call it a bit of a hippie town, but it has a wonderful vibe to it. Thanks for coming along!

Location: Mozambique

Summary:

On March 30th, I had quite the adventure in Mozambique! I signed up for a 2-hour boat trip to try to spot whale sharks — the biggest sharks in the world, with some spotted at 9 meters in this area. I'm not typically a fan of being on the water since I get seasick, but I figured I better seize the opportunity. Sasha and Chris joined as well, since Sasha does whale shark research and goes on these trips whenever she can. The boat held 10 passengers plus a captain and a guide, and we were equipped with safety vests for getting through the surf, snorkel gear (no tanks), and the plan was to jump in the water once we spotted the whale sharks. We ended up finding dolphins instead, and most everyone except me jumped in to get a closer look — but nobody saw anything more than what we'd already seen from the boat. I felt pretty good about staying dry! Then dark rainy clouds rolled in and it started pouring, so I ended up soaked anyway. The group on the boat was a fun international mix — a girl named London possibly from England, some Dutch travelers from The Hague, and others from the guest house. Some had originally come to study in Cape Town and made their way to Mozambique from there. Getting back through the surf required a second attempt, and the landing on the beach was a hard bump. A tractor pulled the boat up on shore — everything was very well organized. We climbed up to the Peri Peri premises where we'd started and found a beautiful warm swimming pool, which was perfect since it was still raining. It felt almost like a sauna. The owner offered everyone a free second trip the next day since we didn't see whale sharks, but I declined — I'd had a great experience and wanted to leave the spots for others. That evening, I had dinner with some of the people from the boat, and it was just a wonderful, fun crowd. Later, wandering through town, I met Heidi from Germany who owns a restaurant and gallery. She'd been without power all weekend due to a broken breaker box, but neighbors had been running extension cords from their properties to keep her freezers going. It really showed what a tight-knit community this is. The town has great shopping, plenty of places to eat and drink, and is a surfer's paradise. There's even a small airport about 30 minutes away, and once you're settled, everything is walkable. A truly special place!

Location: Mozambique

Summary:

On March 29th, a Sunday, I left Xai-Xai and made my way to Tofu in Mozambique. The journey turned out to be quite interesting. Along the way, I stopped at the Önnham River for a bite to eat, where I met a couple from Singapore who had bought a Land Cruiser in Germany, shipped it to Cape Town, and were now wandering through southern Africa without a fixed plan. It's always fun to run into fellow travelers on the road. The scenery was absolutely exhilarating — driving through Africa is always such a joy. I followed the main road closest to the coast, and when it was time to head to Tofu, I had to turn off for about an hour or more. The detour wasn't the most exciting stretch, but arriving at Tofu made it all worthwhile. Sasha had recommended a rocky little road thinking I was on a motorbike, but it worked perfectly fine for my Land Cruiser. I found Chris and Sasha's guesthouse up the hill and was immediately impressed. It's a very unique place — they run it like a hostel with three separate rooms and a dorm, accommodating about 10 people at a time. It takes a moment to really comprehend what they've built there. Chris and Sasha are Dutch, which I didn't know beforehand. Years ago, they did their own overland trip down the east side of Africa from the Netherlands to Mozambique, fell in love with Tofu, and have been running their place for the past seven years. Chris is also a kitesurf instructor, so they combine that with the guesthouse business. I walked down to the beach, just 5-10 minutes away, and soaked it all in. It's a lively spot with lots of surfing, and kitesurfing takes place at a lagoon about 20 minutes away. What I loved most is how hands-on the owners are — they built the place themselves, spend quality time with their guests, and are genuinely happy with the life they've chosen. I truly lucked out finding this place and wouldn't have wanted to miss it for the world. Thanks for having me, Chris and Sasha!