Location: Malawi

Summary:

Today I left the Mushroom Farm Eco Lodge, where I had met some fascinating fellow travelers, including a Swiss couple on a year-long sabbatical touring Africa by public transport. I headed down a very steep hill toward Kondowe on Lake Malawi — it reminded me of Sani Pass. The descent was full of rocks, ruts, and hairpin turns, and I took it very slowly in my Land Cruiser. Halfway down, I picked up an older couple carrying buckets and bottles of honey they needed to sell to help fund their son's studies. I gave them a ride to the bottom where they could find buyers. After reaching the coast, I had to drive back up the hill toward Mzuzu to eventually reach Nkhata Bay. On the way up, I encountered a long line of trucks waiting because a jackknifed fuel truck was blocking the entire road. Fortunately, there was just enough room for my vehicle to squeeze past. I later learned a road grader was on its way to help clear the obstruction. I passed through Mzuzu and continued down to Nkhata Bay, where I checked into the Soul Rebel Lodge and Backpackers. The highlight was getting a room built over the water on Lake Malawi — a real novelty. I was advised to keep the deck door locked when I wasn't around because locals could paddle by in boats and pay an uninvited visit. I met a South African riding a yellow BMW 1250 motorbike, walked through town, and enjoyed dinner at the lodge. There was also a big group of Danish students doing a cooking event in the communal area by the water. A great day of driving through beautiful Malawi countryside with plenty of interesting encounters along the way.

Location: Malawi

Summary:

Waking up at the mushroom farm in Malawi was an exciting experience. The cabin sits on a steep drop with barely any fencing, and one wall of the restroom building is essentially open, offering a stunning panoramic view all the way to Lake Malawi. The accommodation is a cozy Kopp house with room for four, though I had it all to myself. They use composting toilets and have hot water for each building, plus reliable Starlink Wi-Fi. The farm is a vegan place, which I can handle for a few meals. In the morning I ordered a big French press of Malawi coffee — three full cups of incredibly strong local coffee, comparable to Ethiopian coffee in strength. That turned out to be a mistake given I'd been mostly drinking Nescafé lately. After finishing the coffee, I booked a coffee tour for about 20,000 kwacha, roughly $15. Lyson, a local coffee farmer, came to pick me up for what became a leisurely two-hour walk up to his home above 3,000 meters (9,000 feet), which is the altitude where coffee grows. He's a small farmer with about 1,250 coffee plants that take two to three years before producing beans. The land can't be purchased — only leased from the government, and some farmers even sublease from other leaseholders. The walk was incredibly scenic but involved crossing a creek on unstable tree trunks. The three cups of strong coffee had made me jittery enough that I felt unsafe walking across, so I lowered myself and carefully made my way over. The paths don't allow cars, so everyone in these hills stays remarkably fit simply from daily life. At Lyson's place, he roasted beans right there for me and I got to drink freshly roasted coffee on the spot. He also showed me a shared facility used by about 42 farmers in a co-op arrangement where they shell the coffee and either sell it green to wholesalers or roast and sell it themselves. I learned that altitude is the crucial factor for growing coffee — the lower areas had none. On the way back, we took a different route to avoid that sketchy log bridge. I stopped by some wood carvers and picked up a couple of souvenirs, probably overpaying as tends to happen. Back at the farm, I noticed the owners have an orange Prado that's currently not running. I ended the day with another delicious vegan meal. Coffee wins every time.

Location: Malawi

Summary:

Today on April 15th, I left Mzuzu heading for the Mushroom Farm Eco Lodge, a ride of about 130 kilometers. The scenery along the way was even more beautiful than what I had seen on the road into Mzuzu. The roads were a mixed bag with plenty of potholes to watch out for. Along the route, I noticed tobacco fields and drying facilities, a reminder that tobacco farming is still very much alive in Malawi. As I got closer to my destination, the road became unpaved, and at one point road workers had blocked it and were collecting money from anyone who wanted to pass. I paid my share. I can only imagine how challenging that road must be during the rainy season. In other news, I received word from Dr. Vincent Moyo, the vice medical director at Nakoma Mission Hospital about an hour outside Lilongwe, Malawi's capital. He expressed interest in taking over responsibility for my Land Cruiser. The hospital has been hit hard by funding cuts, particularly due to changes in US aid, so they're eager for any help they can get. I let them know the vehicle is left-hand drive, which isn't ideal for Malawi where they drive on the left side of the road, but it turns out they already operate some left-hand drive ambulances. That's essentially what the Land Cruiser would become for them, so this could work out well. Arriving near Livingstonia at the Mushroom Farm was exciting. The lodge sits on the edge of a hill with sweeping views over a valley and Lake Malawi in the distance. The people running the place are very enthusiastic, and I'm looking forward to spending a few days here. What a memorable day of travel.

Location: Malawi

Summary:

Today, April 14th, I headed north in Malawi to explore more of the country before I need to leave. Julie is occupied with her conference and interviews, so I set off on my own. My first destination was Mzuzu, about 350 kilometers away. The road was mostly in good condition, though large stretches are still under construction — meaning I often drove on temporary roads and had to navigate bypasses where bridges are being built. Despite some soft spots, I never needed four-wheel drive. Coming from the flat Netherlands, I was struck by the dramatic mountain formations along the route. There aren't many towns on that stretch, but I managed to grab a quick snack along the way. Once in Mzuzu, I found a place called Chaya Yay accommodation, which offers self-contained units where you can cook your own meals — convenient since they don't have a restaurant. The access road to the accommodation was extremely challenging for about a kilometer, though my car handled it fine. Smaller cars struggle but still manage somehow. The place had Wi-Fi, which I rely on, and I chose the self-serve option so I didn't need to go out for dinner. Instead, I used my emergency food packages that I brought from the Netherlands and Norway. All in all, it was a successful day, though 350 kilometers at variable speeds really does take the entire day. More adventures ahead!

Location: Malawi

Summary:

Today, April 13th, a Monday, I took it easy for most of the day before heading to the conference center. My goal was to interview Dr. Seke Kayuni along with Julie Jacobson from Britain, who works with BridgesToDevelopment.org, about WHO's designated 21 neglected tropical diseases. Getting there was easy since it's not far from where I'm staying. Even though the conference ran an hour longer that day, we had communicated about the timing. We ended up being a group of three for the interview, as Stella Kepa from Kenya, who has known Julie for a long time, joined us. We found a relatively quiet spot in the conference hall to sit down and conduct the interview. I was able to record the interview from two angles using both my iPhone and my pro camera, so hopefully the footage will turn out well, though it will take some time to process. It was very nice meeting both Dr. Seke and Julie — both are very active in their respective fields. After the interview, everyone had things to attend to. Dr. Seke lives in the Longwe area so he headed home. Julie has a big task ahead of her — she wants to interview as many people as possible during the conference, and with only a few days to do it (the whole conference is 4 days and day 1 was already over), she needed to get moving. I grabbed a bite to eat at the Kitini Hub restaurant across the street from the hotel. It was a nice place, though not many people were there — understandable for a Monday night; I was surprised they were even open. I also treated myself to a cappuccino there. I enjoy having a cappuccino or espresso before going to sleep, which may not work for most people, but it works for me. All in all, it was a splendid day in a beautiful environment. I tried not to get back to the hotel too late since driving in the dark is always a bit of a challenge and more dangerous. Thank you for coming along — see you tomorrow!

Location: Malawi

Summary:

Today, April 12th, 2026, was a very special day. I picked up Julie Jacobson at the Kamuzu International Airport in Lilongwe, Malawi. Julie, who also lives on Vashon Island, is deeply involved with BridgesToDevelopment.org, which addresses the 21 neglected tropical diseases as nominated by the World Health Organization. She flew in to attend a WHO conference in Lilongwe, expected to draw around 200 people from all over the world. I left my lodge, the New Area 3 Lodge, and made my way toward the airport. On the way, I stopped at the Food Lovers Market, a supermarket chain found across several southern African countries. I had coffee and chatted with the staff, who even asked about the car I've been driving and what I might be asking for it—something I'm still figuring out. The road to the airport had its share of potholes and narrow stretches, very typical of the roads here in Africa. The airport is located in Area 52, essentially the small town of Lumbazi. It's a pretty straightforward airport. I paid a small fee—about 1,000 to 2,000 kwacha, roughly a dollar or so—to access a viewing area where you can watch planes come in. While waiting, I had a conversation with a truck driver who turned out to have worked at Nkhoma Mission Hospital, which will come back into the story later. I was so engaged in conversation that I only spotted Julie's plane after it had already landed. I watched her come down the airplane steps and walk across the tarmac to a bus—there was no jet bridge. Eventually Julie came through, and she was very happy to see me. The WHO had organized transportation for conference attendees, but this seemed like the only window I'd have to spend time with her, so I drove her myself. We stopped again at the Food Lovers Market coffee shop and caught up over food and drinks. Then I took Julie to the President Hotel, which is right next to the Bingu International Umudzi Park Resort and conference center. It was conveniently located so she could just walk to the conference venue. Besides attending the conference, Julie mentioned she had another goal: to interview as many attendees as possible. We had planned to do an interview ourselves, but decided to push that to the next day, Monday. I dropped her off and headed back to the New Area 3 Lodge. It's a basic place and a bit hard to find, but it works. All in all, it was a fabulous and memorable day.

Location: Malawi

Summary:

Today on April 11th, I left Liwonde and headed toward Lilongwe, the capital city of Malawi. Since I had stayed in town rather than at the Kutschaer place, it was easier to get going in the morning. Liwonde sits along the Shire River, and while there are hippos and crocodiles in the area, I couldn't see them from where I was staying. I did enjoy a lovely breakfast looking out over the river though. I learned about the barrage on the bridge over the Shire River, which is designed to control water flow from Lake Malawi to preserve water levels for electricity generation during dry times. The Shire River eventually joins the Zambezi River near Chirummo in Mozambique before flowing to the Indian Ocean. The roads out of Liwonde weren't great, but they improved after a while until I hit a long stretch of road construction. They're essentially building a brand new road with a temporary detour alongside it. They seem to work efficiently, but the sheer scale of the projects means it takes a long time. Despite the construction, it was a comfortable ride, and the scenery was absolutely stunning — the mountain shapes were endlessly beautiful and rewarding. I paid a road toll at one point, which wasn't much, and I was happy to contribute. When I arrived in the capital, I found the New Area 3 Lodge. The main road to get there was under construction, so I had to navigate around closures, which took extra time. The city is divided into numbered areas, which I haven't fully figured out yet. The lodge was reasonable and had Wi-Fi, which is a must for me to stay connected without burning through my data plan. They only serve breakfast though, so I decided to go to a Chinese restaurant nearby. I was advised not to walk there at night, so I drove the long way around. The restaurant had walls and security guards — just the African way of doing things. The food was absolutely delicious. I had a wonderful soup, and I made sure to order the small size since Chinese restaurant portions can be enormous. It was a great end to the day. Looking forward to tomorrow!

Location: Malawi

Summary:

Today on April 10th, I headed to Liwonde National Park in Malawi after a great breakfast. My Garmin directed me to the south entrance, and I needed four-wheel drive to cross a river just before the park. The park entrance has two gates with electrified fencing and ground wires to keep animals from escaping. Entry cost about 65,000 Kwacha (under $40) for the car and myself, and I hired a guide for 15,000 Kwacha (less than $10) for a 2-3 hour game drive. I knew early morning is best for game drives, but I didn't start until around 10 AM. My guide had already been out that morning and had spotted lions. My main goal was to see elephants up close, as I'd only seen them from a distance so far. The roads were challenging but manageable since it was dry season. We spotted a crocodile on dry land, waterbuck, and other animals, though no hippos, zebras, or giraffes. After leaving the park, I stopped at a coffee spot and discovered Malawian coffee, which was excellent and reminded me of Ethiopian coffee. There I met Samuel (Sam), owner of the Kutcheyr Lodge. His story was incredible — he bought land inside the game park from a local chief for just $800 about eight years ago. He had no money to develop it, but when some foreign visitors arrived, he borrowed mattresses from a store, hosted them for one night, and charged $6-$10 each. The group loved his vision so much that each person gave him $1,000. He used that money to buy the mattresses permanently, purchase concrete, and start building. Now the lodge accommodates 100 people, with 80% of guests coming from the Netherlands. I visited the lodge and it's basic but incredibly special — you might literally find a crocodile at your doorstep since it's inside the park fence. Signs are in Dutch, and I met four Dutch medical students from the University of Groningen doing hospital internships in Malawi. I wished I could have stayed there but had already committed to my own accommodation. I also checked out the Hippo Lodge, a massive facility along the river with capacity for 500 people. It was clean and well-kept, and I enjoyed an amazing Chinese-style soup at their restaurant. Room rates were 160,000 Kwacha per person — more affordable than some places but still 2.5 times what I'm currently paying. What a full and fascinating day in Malawi!

Location: Malawi

Summary:

Today I left Blantyre after sorting out my car information and headed toward Liwonde National Park, hoping to do a game drive the next day. The roads were decent with occasional potholes — just enough to keep you on your toes. Along the way, I had a wonderful surprise: I spotted the Ekoa stove facility, which originated from the Burn Design Lab and is primarily manufactured in Kenya. It turns out they've expanded into Malawi, and Peter Scott is leading the effort here. They employ about 80 people producing the stoves and sell them at just 10% of production cost. The idea is to give people a stake in ownership so they value the stoves more than if they were simply given away, while still making them affordable. These stoves save wood and effort, and the facility has plenty of room to expand. It was a brief but fascinating visit. Arriving in Liwonde, the roads got significantly worse, especially in the southern part of town. I crossed the Shire River, which connects to Lake Makombe and ultimately Lake Malawi. Accommodation options were either very expensive or unavailable, but I found Villa Leonde. The road to get there wasn't great, but the location on the Shire River, looking across at Liwonde National Park with mountains in the background, was absolutely stunning and restful. The host promised Wi-Fi and delivered excellent connectivity. The river is known for hippos and crocodiles, though I didn't spot any during my stay. For dinner, I walked a few hundred meters to the Water's Edge Lodge. For comparison, my accommodation cost 70,000 kwacha with breakfast, while the Water's Edge charges 330,000 kwacha. Their dinner menu was reasonable though, and I enjoyed a nice soup with great ambience. Hopefully tomorrow the game drive works out!

Location: Malawi

Summary:

Today I set out in Blantyre, Malawi, to gather important information about my Toyota and what my options are for potentially selling or importing it. I started by visiting a Toyota dealer, where the receptionist quickly connected me with a knowledgeable technician. My first priority was determining the exact manufacturing year of my car, since US import regulations depend on the fabrication date. The car was registered in the Netherlands in July 2007, but it was originally manufactured in Japan and shipped via Dubai, so I had no proof of the actual build year. The technician knew exactly where to look — he found a label near the passenger seat belt attachment point on the body of the car, which confirmed it was manufactured in 2006. That was a huge relief. He also explained what's required to import the car into Malawi and advised that I'd likely need to import it first before selling it, which raises its own set of challenges. He directed me to the Malawi Revenue Authority (MRA) to find out the import tax, which depends on the vehicle's age, make, and value. I decided to visit the MRA office in Blantyre even though I might end up selling the car in Lilongwe, the capital. Finding the office wasn't straightforward — the entrance wasn't obvious and I needed help from a kind stranger working nearby. Once inside, it took about five different people to work through my inquiry. I didn't get an official assessment, but I received an informal estimate: roughly $10,000 in import duties, based on the $25,000 (or €22,000) purchase price I could prove with my agreement. I arrived just before lunch, so I had to wait an hour and a half while the staff took their break. During that time, I chatted with the person who had helped me find the office. I also learned that this MRA location handles both inland matters and clearing goods that arrive by truck without having been properly cleared beforehand, so they take their documentation seriously. After getting all this valuable information, I headed back to the hotel feeling like I'd taken a meaningful step forward in figuring out my next move. It's great to have concrete numbers and details to work with as I narrow down my options.