D’Amato & Szabo: Wine Thieves

Send us Fan Mail

We’re back in the Napa Valley with stories about the early days of the re-birth of the Napa Valley from the 1970s and 1980s. We’ll hear about the hard work, the physical labour of establishing a vineyard, the uncertainty that hung over wineries at the time, and certainly the financial drain. John and Sara speak with two second-generation winemakers from the Napa Valley who both have stepped into the family business and taken the reins from their parents. It’s the sort of discussion and topic you’d think far more common in the old world, where multiple generations have been farming the same land and making wine, with family legacies stretching back in some cases several centuries.

The Thieves welcome Colleen Williams née Seps, who grew up at Storybook Mountain Vineyards in Napa Valley. A storied family affair that began inn 1976, when Jerry and his German-born wife, Sigrid, discovered an abandoned vineyard and ghost winery, with century-old caves, in the Mayacamas Mountains northwest of Calistoga in the far northern Napa Valley. They were captivated by this wild, high-elevation site, which dated to the 1880s when it was known as Grimm Brothers Vineyards & Wine Vaults, and the couple purchased the property, and set about replanting the historic vineyard, and constructed a new winery. Storybook quickly became one of California’s premier producers of Zinfandel and, in 1990, Jerry initiated the creation of Zinfandel Advocates & Producers, better known as ZAP, an organization dedicated to promoting the features and benefits of Zinfandel.

Christopher Vandendriessche of White Rock Vineyards in the Stag’s Leap District of the Napa Valley is also on the program. The original parcel was purchased by Dr. Pettingill in 1870 who was a globetrotter and bon vivant but he is also known to have been a dentist, brewer, winemaker, and horse breeder. The vineyard he planted was one of the earliest plantings in Napa Valley. In 1871, using only a hand saw to cut the white rock he quarried from the property, he constructed a winery and also designed two cellars, where he began the tradition of bottle aging his wine for 4 years before release- an approach still practiced at White Rock.

This episode was produced in partnership with Napa Valley Vintners.

Send us Fan Mail

This is not an episode about Napa's “icon wines” or “icon wineries” whose labels, rarity, and high cost cause a frenzy among consumers resulting in exclusive waitlists for the privilege of purchasing a bottle. No, today we’re talking about the “star” vineyards that, in some cases, have become brands in their own right. In Part One, we spoke with Andy Beckstoffer, the winegrower who turned Napa Valley’s grower-winery relationship upside down.  Today our illustrious guests include Paul Hobbs, Chris Tynan of Cliff Lede Vineyards, and Tom Hinde of Taub Family Selections to discuss what makes their vineyards so unique.  

Paul Hobbs is an esteemed international winemaking consultant with projects across the globe from Argentina to Armenia but his home base is at Napa Valley’s Paul Hobbs winery whose fruit is sourced from the sub AVA’s of St. Helena and Oakville. He works with Beckstoffer’s fruit from the notable To Kalon, Las Piedras, and Dr. Crane vineyards. He'll open up about his long-time relationship with Beckstoffer Vineyards plus the Nathan Coombs Estate on the foot of the Vaca Mountain range known for its volcanic soils and cool climate.  

Taub Family Selections represents top sites in St. Helena, Rutherford, Oakville, Yountville, Mount Veeder, and Howell Mountain. Through a relationship with Andy Beckstoffer, the Taub family has access to the vineyards of Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III (Rutherford) and Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper (Oakville) producing Cabernet Sauvignons since 2012. Winemaker Tom Hinde was previously known for his work at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates, Hartford Family Winery, La Crema Winery, Lakoya, Cardinale, Stonestreet, and Verite. We’ll tap into his experience at creating brands and a strong market perspective to give us insight into why these vineyards command such respect.

We’ll also be speaking with Christopher Tynan, winemaker of Cliff Lede Vineyards whose experience includes working with Helen Turley at Blankiet Estate in Yountville, as the assistant winemaker at Colgin Cellars where he worked closely with Vineyard Manager David Abreu. We discuss the famed Poetry Vineyard that is carved into a steep west-facing hillside, which reaches from the highest elevations of the Stags Leap District sub-appellation to the valley floor drawing its uniqueness from shallow, volcanic soils atop fractured shale planted by David Abreu with high vine density and proprietary clonal selection. 

Top up your glass with one of Napa's finest and join us as we hunt down some of Napa's most unique terroirs.

Send us Fan Mail

Join the Wine Thieves in Napa Valley this week for the first of a special two-part series on the "grand crus" of Napa Valley, that is, the very best vineyards, the historic and more recently famous sites that produce Napa's finest wines. Today we're going straight to the source to talk to the Napa Valley’s, and probably all of California’s, most famous grape grower, a man who has created as powerful a luxury brand as anyone in Napa without ever having bottled a single commercial wine of his own,  Andy Beckstoffer, a name intimately associated with, and prominently displayed on, bottles of Napa’s most expensive and sought-after wines.

Andy Beckstoffer is one of the early and most important leaders in the evolution of the Napa Valley to a world-class grape-growing region. Beckstoffer To Kalon, Beckstoffer Georges the III, Beckstoffer Dr, Crane, and other important vineyard names on a bottle of wine sends a shiver down the spine of Napa Valley wine lovers, no matter what producer’s name they’re associated with, and the price is guaranteed to be premium. The story of how and why this came to be is worth a listen in itself. Today, Beckstoffer Vineyards owns and farms over 3,600 acres of top-quality grape-growing properties in three Northern California wine-growing regions – the Napa Valley, Mendocino County, and the Red Hills of Lake County. Join us for a frank conversation with  Andy himself who will take us through his history in Napa Valley and how he came to develop an idiosyncratic business model that empowers the grower, self-regulates quality and may have contributed to the preservation of agricultural land in Napa Valley.

Photo credit: Beckstoffer Vineyards, To Kalon

This episode was created in partnership with Napa Valley Vintners.

Send us Fan Mail

In this important episode we connect with two of the many women who make up the fabric of Napa Valley's wine trade.  We speak with Megan Baccitich, a Healdsburg native and winemaker at the forward-thinking Geodesy Winery, and Ana Diogo-Draper, born raised, and educated in Portugal but in Napa for the last 15 years, and now  Director of winemaking at Artesa. We explore why discussions about women in wine are still relevant and necessary,  examine the importance of mentorship programs for women such as  the innovative WG EDGE (Women Gaining an Edge), a project led by Judy Jordan of Jordan Family of wines and founder of Geodesy. Both Ana and Megan tell their stories of how they rose to leadership roles in a historically male-dominated industry and give advice to women interested in pursuing careers in wine. We'll look at how Napa's wine community is supporting women in wine and the continuing need to increase the number of leadership roles held by women. Join us with a glass for a thought-provoking conversation.

This episode was created in partnership with Napa Valley Vintners. 

Send us Fan Mail

The Man, The Myth, The Legend. On occasion, the Thieves feature conversations with sommeliers and wine industry leaders with unique perspectives, who are great storytellers, and whose work they admire. In this episode, John and Sara speak with the one and only Paul Grieco, 'General and Manager' of Tribeca's Terroir wine bar in New York City, one of the finest not only in Manhattan but in the whole U.S. Canadian born, Grieco was initiated into hospitality at his family's restaurant La Scala, a Toronto institution from the early 60s until 1993 on the corner of Bay and Charles Street. But after almost 30 years now in New York City, Paul is a naturalized New Yorker, famous for his impassioned and unabashed opinions. 

Sara and John question Grieco about New York wines in the wake of their recent series on the wines of the Empire State, and the conversation flows naturally into running a much admired wine bar, building an uncompromising wine list, the state of global wine prices, and of course, the need to have 5 Vouvrays on by the glass. It's essential listening for anyone who operates or works in a wine-focused establishment, and entertainment for anyone who frequents them. Some explicit language punctuates much of that New Yorker conviction, so, tender listener, be forewarned! This episode is sure to prove perspective-changing as well as humorous so grab a glass of fine Finger Lakes riesling (a logical choice, as you'll hear) and join the discussion. 

Send us Fan Mail

Drink Chenin!
In honour of Drink Chenin Day, June 18th 2021, the Wine Thieves make a special trip to South Africa, a global leader in Chenin Blanc production with 55% of the world's plantings. It’s the #1 most planted grape of any colour in the Cape Winelands, accounting for 17.5% of national acreage. The grape has a complicated history but is likely to have been established in the Anjou region of France as far back as the 9th century when it was known as Chenère. It later became known as Chenin Blanc after Mont Chenin in the 15th century, just after it had been brought to the Touraine region of the Loire. In South Africa Chenin Blanc became known as "Steen" with its own contentious and befuddled backstory.

John and Sara welcome Ken Forrester, a founding member of the Chenin Blanc Association, from his winery Stellenbosch, Andrea Mullineux of Mullineux in Swartland and Sebastien Beaumont of Beaumont Wines in Bot River, Walker Bay, to their virtual round table. They delve into the history of Chenin Blanc from its days as a workhorse, brandy base to the world-beating  Lieberstein wine brand in the 1960s (the world's best selling wine for a stretch!) and its rise to quality prominence in the last 20 years becoming the industry’s driving and galvanizing force, and nº1 export. Find out how old bush vines, stainless steel and oak all play a role in stylistic differences, alongside terroir of course. As we'll find out, the age of vineyards plays a significant role in the character of Chenin, nowhere more apparent than in South Africa where almost 1/3 of the country's Chenin plantings are over 20 years old with over 700ha more than 40 years old. Join us with a memorable glass of Chenin to celebrate this captivating grape variety!

This episode was produced in partnership with the Wines of South Africa.

Send us Fan Mail

The Wine Thieves are thrilled to be back on home soil in beautiful southern Ontario investigating what might just be Ontario's finest and most reliable grape variety, Chardonnay. Of the 51 varieties authorized for VQA production, chardonnay is number one by volume accounting for 13% of total VQA production. This episode gives you an overview of Ontario appellations and sub-appellations, and explanations of some of the major differences we've come to expect from this chameleon grape variety across the province.

In discussion with winemaker friends Jay Johnston of Hidden Bench and Craig McDonald of Andrew Peller/Trius in Niagara, along with Dan Sullivan of Rosehall Run in Prince Edward County, John and Sara attempt to discover what makes chardonnay so popular with both producers and consumers, and why it is Ontario's signature grape. Value is always part of the equation, and John also makes a bold prediction on  future pricing. Join us with a glass and get prepped for the upcoming i4C, the 11th edition of the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration on July 23rd in Niagara, which showcases Ontario's finest in a global context.

This episode was produced in partnership with VQA Wine Country Ontario.

Send us Fan Mail

An episode devoted to a few lesser known topics relations to New York Wines including growing in the Hudson River Region, Lake Erie and the burgeoning urban winery scene. An historic growing region, the Hudson River Region is one of the oldest established AVAs in the US having received the designation in 1982. It's also home to the oldest commercial vineyard and the oldest continuously active winery, Brotherhood Winery (1839), having survived prohibition by making sacramental wine. Only a 45-minute drive from Manhattan, grape growing takes place largely on the western shores of the Hudson River Valley that stretch from just south of Albany to just north of the city, following the path of the river to its end in the Atlantic Ocean. We'll also take a look at the grapes grown on the southern shores of Lake Erie and although largely for juice and table grapes, also by a growing number of wineries.

Who says you can't make wine in big cites? The fact that there are no vineyards in the city doesn't seem to inconvenience the swelling number of intrepid New York urban winery owners who source their grapes largely from Long Island and the Finger Lakes. John and Sara investigate the challenges of trucking grapes in from nearby wine regions, the relationships they develop with growers and how they virtually transport city-folk into New York State vineyards. All this and more in this 5th and final episode of the New York wine podcast series.

Joining the Thieves in a round table discussion are  Matthew Spaccarelli of Fjord Vineyards in the Hudson Valley, Mario Mazza of Mazza Wines in Lake Erie, Colleen and Sebastian Hardy of Living Roots in Rochester and Christopher Nicolson of Red Hook Winery in Brooklyn, New York. 

This episode was produced in partnership with the New York Grape & Wine Foundation. 

Send us Fan Mail

The Wine Thieves are back in Europe this spring, the ideal time of year to rediscover Portugal's Vinho Verde. Crisp, delicately perfumed, dry to off-dry, low in alcohol and sometimes with the merest prickle of effervescence, these are classic descriptors of this northern Portuguese specialty (and mostly white, but there are rosé and red versions, too).

But as we'll discover, there is a great deal more to Vinho Verde than just refreshing spring sips. The Minho region, where Vinho Verde is made, is divided in to 9 diverse sub-regions, some heavily Atlantic-influenced, others further inland and sheltered. From Monção and Melgaço to Paiva, as these sub-appellations become more frequent on the label, John and Sara take a deep dive into their distinctive features including the rivers they flank, the grapes in which they specialize, and the changes we can expect on the labels this very vintage.

And from modern, varietally-specific labelling to traditional field blends, the Thieves investigate the range of styles within Vinho Verde. Alvarinho may be unrivalled in its fame but local varieties such as Avesso, and Loureiro (Sara's favourite to pronounce) are worthy bearers of the Vinho Verde flag. Let's not forget the red wines of Vinho Verde based on Vinhão, along with rosés and sparkling wines that are less likely to be found in export. Manuel Pinheiro, President of the Vinho Verde Commission, is this week's special guest as we unravel Vinho Verde, and also reflect on some of the more human aspects of the wine business, like the family and community bonding, and the creation of traditions that bring and bind people together, which winegrowing makes possible. This episode is a perfect listening match with sunning at the lake or grilling sardines this weekend.
Tchau!

This episode was produced in partnership with the Vinho Verde Commission (CRVV).

Send us Fan Mail

Continuing their journey through New York, John and Sara take a deeper dive into the red wines grown across the state in search of an elusive flagship variety. The Thieves make the call that New York's signature red grape must surely be cabernet franc, even if their wine producing friends are reluctant to say it themselves. Merlot may be more widely planted but it remains a Long Island specialty, pinot noir demands ultra-specific sites, cool syrah shows great promise but lacks critical mass for now, blaufränkisch performs admirably but is a mouthful to say (and its synonym, Lemberger,  is not particualrly attractive), and grenache, well, remains quixotic at best. One thing's for sure, New York winemakers don't like to be boxed in, which is why we see such tremendous diversity in the varieties planted and wine styles emerging from the state's 7 distinctive wine regions.

Our guests this episode are Josh Wig, co-owner of Lamoreaux Landing, a family-owned cabernet franc specialist located on the east side of Seneca Lake of the Finger Lakes, also specialists in grape-fed venison, Master Sommelier Christopher Bates, co-owner of Element Winery in the Finger Lakes,  a high-intervention cook and low-intervention winemaker,  and Christopher Tracy of Channing Daughters on Long Island, who talks field blends and the importance of diversity and expanding along with the universe.  Join us with a glass of cabernet franc, merlot, pinot noir or Lemberger (scratch that, blaufränkisch) in hand as we discuss the where and the how of the reds that New York does best.