Modern Homesteading 

Modern homesteading refers to a self-sufficient lifestyle—living autonomously, with minimum help from others. In a nutshell, it includes subsistence agriculture, renewable energy sources when possible, home preservation of food, zero-waste living, and, depending on your skills, even homeschooling, and craftwork.

Modern homesteading is a lifestyle, and not one for those afraid of a little manual labour. This approach to self-sufficiency incorporates traditional homesteading practices with modern technologies and sustainable living, the best of both worlds. While there is flexibility in how individuals interpret and implement modern homesteading, here are 10 key principles and features commonly associated with it:

Self-Sufficiency: Modern homesteading emphasizes self-reliance and reducing dependence on external systems by producing a significant portion of one's food, energy, and other essential resources. Depending on your skills and knowledge it could be as simple as a veggie garden and fruit trees, with a small flock of chickens. 

Or you could go next level with a large garden that you could sell or barter the excess, with a large flock of chickens that you sell excess eggs, and maybe even a “killer” lamb in the paddock that you raise to butcher and fill your freezer. 

My goals with Mojo Homestead are big! Go big or go home kinda big. Below is a list;

Feed and provide for my family

To grow enough garden produce and enough excess to preserve for the winter months, 

To have our own supply of goat and cows milk for cheese and yogurt, 

Grow our own beef cattle, goat meat and chicken meat for our freezer, 

Raw honey from our bees,

Fruit and nut trees,

Enough wool for craft projects,

Make our own soaps and candles,

Making an Income

To be selling pasture-raised eggs and chicken meat, 

To be selling raw honey and complete hives,

To be raising poddy steers to sell for meat

To be selling goats milk soap,

To be selling microgreens and vegetables,

To have a Shopify store/Amazon store for selling homestead-related products.

Sustainable Living: Modern homesteaders prioritize sustainable practices that minimize environmental impact. This includes using renewable energy sources, implementing water conservation strategies, practising organic gardening, and employing eco-friendly waste management techniques.

We are off-grid for power, water, gas and sewerage. We also have no garbage service.

We have solar panels and a small wind turbine with batteries to hold the energy. We do have a petrol generator but we are trying to build up a big enough bank to not need it.

We have gas in large cylinders, but we are looking at the biogas digester systems, not sure if it’ll work in the cold.

We have a 110,000-litre water tank and collect rainwater, we also have 5 dams. I’m looking into systems for slowing the water drainage on our property similar to Peter and Stuart Andrews's natural sequence farming techniques. I would love to do the Tawyn Park training courses for this. 

Sewerage is taken care of via an old septic tank (that will need replacing in the next year or 2). 

For the garbage we recycle glasses and plastics, the organic matter gets composted and paper waste gets burnt.

Small-Scale Farming and Gardening: Homesteaders often cultivate small-scale farms or gardens to grow fruits, vegetables, and herbs, and raise livestock for personal consumption. Or if they have a little extra space you could raise/ grow more and sell the excess.

Most homesteaders utilize organic methods, permaculture principles, or regenerative practices to maximize productivity and minimize ecological harm. It doesn't pay to homestead if you treat your soil like crap. 

Return on investment is important and gardeners that don’t look after their environment will never reap the benefits.

Food Preservation and Storage: Modern homesteaders focus on preserving and storing food for long-term use. My big goal at Mojo Homestead is to build an underground root cellar for the storage of food. Don’t tell the Handy Helper cause he will have to help me build it.

Techniques like canning, fermenting, dehydrating, and freezing are commonly employed to extend the shelf life of produce and reduce reliance on store-bought goods.

This means when you have an oversupply in summer you can preserve food for winter when your garden is not producing.

Melissa K Norris from the USA has some awesome tips and highly recommend following her on Insta. https://www.instagram.com/melissaknorris/

DIY Skills and Handcrafting: Homesteaders develop a wide range of DIY skills to maintain and repair infrastructure, build structures, create homemade products, and engage in crafts like woodworking, soap-making, knitting, or beekeeping. 

Being able to produce household items like soap and wool is one of my major goals. I would also love to get to a point where I can produce enough soap to sell it. 

And of course, these skills promote self-sufficiency and reduce dependency on external services.

Resourcefulness and Minimalism: Modern homesteading encourages resourcefulness and minimalistic living. While I definitely don’t consider myself a minimalist, I have way too much “stuff” for that. I do live fairly frugally, we don’t buy anything we don’t absolutely need. 

We are also very handy with collecting second-hand items and repurposing them. My milking station is made from a coffee table that we got at our local green shed. Is it perfect? No. Will I improve on it? Yes, when time and money permit.

Because we are in a tiny home, we really don’t have the space for lots of stuff. I do have plans to build an outdoor kitchen for summertime.

It involves making do with what is available, repurposing items, reducing waste, and embracing a simpler, less consumer-driven lifestyle.

Connection to Nature and Land Stewardship: Homesteaders value their connection to nature and prioritize land stewardship. 

While I would like to get all woo-woo about this it's actually very practical. If we don’t treat nature and our environment with care, we will not be able to utilise it. 

This is done through a variety of practices. Although they are all similar with only slight variations and could be listed as permaculture, regenerative agriculture, or sustainable land management. The main goal is to promote biodiversity, soil health, and ecosystem resilience.

Community Engagement and Collaboration: Homesteaders often foster connections with like-minded individuals, neighbours, and local communities. 

Unfortunately, in Australia, the movement isn’t as prominent as in the USA. I’m hoping that as more of us come to this lifestyle, community groups will grow. 

Having groups that engage in community-supported agriculture, bartering, or sharing knowledge and resources to build a supportive network would be awesome.

Education and Skill Sharing: Continuing on from point 8, modern homesteaders value ongoing learning and often participate in workshops, classes, or online communities to expand their knowledge. 

I love the phrase “You don’t know what you don’t know”. A key characteristic of modern homesteaders is their enthusiasm for learning new skills that will make them more self-sufficient.

Most homesteaders are happy to help out with “newbie” homesteaders questions and they are usually willing to share their expertise with others, teaching skills related to homesteading, sustainability, or self-sufficiency.

Flexibility and Adaptability: Modern homesteading acknowledges that every homestead is unique, and practices are adaptable to individual circumstances, geographical location, and personal preferences. 

Don’t ever feel that you have to do something just because other homesteaders are. 

Butchering your own livestock might be the last thing on your mind, and it's okay to say that is not what I want to be doing right now. In a couple of years, things could change and you might be ready to move towards that level of self-sufficiency. 

You may never feel comfortable with livestock dispatch and preparation, and that is fine too.

As a modern homesteader, you need to embrace flexibility and adjust your practices based on your specific needs and available resources.

You don’t need to be on 500 acres to homestead, realistically you don’t even need 100 acres like I have. 

You could start in your backyard! Certainly, I stretched my wings more when we moved to the small farm which was 2.5 acres. I had veggies gardens, fruit and nut trees on the horticulture front. Livestock included chickens, 2 milking goats and a beehive. 

Starting small allows you to cut your teeth before you moved to a larger homestead. And decide if it's really for you!

If urban homesteading suits your circumstances, then go for that and get a feel for it. 

If you’re like me, don’t be surprised if you want to move to the larger scale before too long.

Raising your own chicks can be an awesome experience, especially for a family to do together. Your children will enjoy watching the chicks grow and have a greater understanding of food production and the cycles of life.

You will also have the benefit of having hand-raised chickens! This means they, depending on the breed, will likely be very tame and happy to be handled. 

Choosing the Right Breed

In my chicken breeds Webinar, I go into a lot of detail on selecting the right breed, with the main points to consider being forage abilities, climate suitability, egg production, space requirements, noise levels, and breed availability. 

Choosing carefully can mean you have a flock that fits into your family and circumstances beautifully, ensuring a harmonious and thriving flock in your backyard.

Popular chicken breeds that are suitable for egg production include Australorps, Rhode Island Red, Plymouth Rock, Leghorn, Sussex, Orpington, and Wyandotte. 

All these breeds are stars of the backyard chicken-keeping scene with their size, temperament, and egg production all working well in backyard flocks.

Sourcing Day-Old Chicks

Day-old chicks are generally sourced from commercial hatcheries. This will mean they will come to you vaccinated and sexed if that's what you request. Some hatcheries are better than others when it comes to sexing chickens, but most will take any roosters off your hands if they have made a mistake. 

Don’t be shy to go to the hatchery and view the environment for yourself, just keep in mind this will be a commercial production and while animal welfare is a consideration, after all the hatcheries need healthy chicks to sell. You may be confronted with handling and living conditions that you are not used to. They are a business and the business is hatching and getting chicks out the door to their new homes.

Other options include your local produce store, which may well have older birds for sale also. I have also sourced chickens from Gumtree in Australia (I’m going to guess that Craigslist may be the US equivalent?). From these types of sources, it is buyer beware. I have purchased “fertile” eggs that were not all fertile, I have purchased 6 sexed chickens, only to have 2 roosters in the bunch. When buying from these sources you really don’t get any solid guarantees, but you can also get some bargains if you are on a budget.

Preparing the Brooder

To raise chickens from day-old up until they are 6-8 weeks they will need to have a heat source. This is called a brooder. It needs to be draft-free, with constant heat but also one they can move away from. If they cannot move away from the heat source they can overheat and die. The heat sources used by some people are a fire risk, and not recommended. We use a heat plate that will not burn you if you touch it and release an ambient heat the chicks really thrive on. 

The bedding needs to be absorbent and warm. We use pine shavings as we can add layers over a 2-week period to absorb manure and then clean it out and start again. The used bedding is a great addition to my compost.

You will also need feeders and waterers in the brooder, the kind that cannot be knocked over, spillage just makes more work. Also raising them slightly will prevent manure and bedding from being flicked into them.

Temperature and Lighting

The temperature for days olds needs to be at around 33 degrees Celsius ( 91F), but the best way to know if you have it right is to watch the chicks. If they are continuously under the heat source they are likely too cold, if they are at the other end of the brooder avoiding the heat then it's likely too hot. Ideally, you want to see them moving freely between food, water and heat. 

The temperature can be reduced each day if your heater has that ability. Our heat plate doesn't so we have doors and windows that can be opened for a couple of hours we also expand our brooder to give the chicks more space, and therefore more time away from the heat source.

Chicks cannot be left outside without heat until they are fully feathered, as their down feathers will not be enough. This is usually around the 6-week mark, depending on the breed. Once they are fully feathered is best to gradually give them time outside on the grass. Starting with maybe just an hour and building up to all day, and this should be by around the 8-week point. 

As long as you are not in the middle of winter and snow, your 8-week-old chicks will do fine outside as long as they have a shelter that is sun, rain and windproof. 

It's a good idea to have a light source in the brooder if there is no natural light. Ideally, have it set on a timer to coincide with the sunrise and sunset in your area. This will help the chickens regulate their own body clocks to the season before leaving the brooder.

The regulation of light will also assist your hens laying, as that is vital to controlling their egg production.

Feeding and Nutrition

Chicks need high protein feed, they are growing, and you’ll be surprised just how quickly they do, and need feed to help with the growth rate. Chick starter is usually 18-22% protein and they need this until around 8 weeks of age. They can then move to adult feed or grower feed until they begin egg production. At that point layer pellets are the best option.

Chick starter with the medication to prevent coccidiosis is essential. Coccidiosis will easily kill chicks. If you don't want to feed medicated you can purchase unmedicated but I don’t recommend that. 

It also goes without saying that they must have access to clean fresh water at all times.

Health and Disease Prevention

Vaccination!!!! I trust the science on this one, I have seen first-hand what Marek's disease can do, and it's not pretty. If you really don’t want vaccinated chickens that is your choice but you then must be prepared to dispatch any chickens that come down with these common and vaccine-preventable illnesses. 

So that said the main health issues for young chicks relate to hygiene. The bedding must be changed if it is too soiled. We find adding a layer when they are very young (1-2 weeks) but once they are around the 3-week mark it becomes necessary to clean the brooder about every 2-3 days. Once they hit the 6-week mark, and are outside during the day it's much easier to keep it clean. 

I also feed medicated chick starter as it will help prevent coccidiosis, which will kill young chicks. Some people are averse to feeding medicated feed but my theory is if humans are prepared to take Ivermectin then they should be fine with medicating animals. And as I said earlier if you choose not to medicate be prepared to dispatch sick birds.

Something to be aware of when raising chicks in a brooder is if one chick gets sick you need to be able to isolate. One sick chick in a brooder can easily turn in 5 sick chicks and the next thing you know you have lost the lot. 

Socialization and Handling

The best part of raising chicks in a brooder is that you will be able to handle them daily from day one. This means you will end up with tame, easily handled-chickens. As we have grown our flock in size we have lost some of this tameness. Which I find a real shame. 

Most important if you have small children always stay with them when they are handling chickens, in their excitement I have seen toddlers put a stranglehold on a chick and nearly crush it. It's vital to teach them to be gentle when handling chicks and this will help promote the chick's trust in humans and reduce stress.

Transitioning to the Coop

Around the 8-week mark, depending on the weather, chicks can be moved to a coop. I try to do it gradually by using a rabbit hutch to give them a week outside during the day before moving them to the coop permanently. 

If you have a sheltered coop they could go straight in, remembering my chickens are pasture raised and therefore are out in the open. 

It is a really good idea to have some small roosting bars when they first go into a coop particularly if they are moving into an already established flock. They will need to find their own place in the pecking order. Unless existing birds are very low in aggression I don’t recommend putting 8-week-olds straight into a coop with them, but rather gradually introducing them. 

Enjoying the Rewards

Congratulations! If you got your chicks to 10 weeks old you have done an eggcellant job! Mortality rates of 1-5% in the first 2 weeks are not uncommon or unheard of. 

You are now officially a chicken mama (or papa) and will become addicted to chicken raising very quickly. 

Whether you're a seasoned poultry pro or just dipping your toes into the feathered world of backyard flocks, one thing's for sure – chickens come in a dazzling array of breeds, each with their own unique personality and charm. 

In this egg-citing blog post, we'll take a look at some of the popular chicken breeds here in Australia and from around the world, and even delve into the intriguing world of eggs that come in a kaleidoscope of colours.

Classification of Chicken Breeds

Let's start by understanding the classification of chicken breeds. Heritage breeds, hybrid breeds, and bantam breeds each bring their own flair to the coop. 

Heritage

Hybrid

Mature slowly and live 6-12 years

Fast maturing and only live 3-4 years

Depending on breed lay 3-6 eggs a week

Lay an egg a day but only for about 2 years

Will go broody depending on breed and make great mothers

Rarely go broody

Self-sufficient, can thrive with foraging

Not great forages

Retains natural behaviors and instincts

Selectively bred for specific production traits

Long-established history and lineage, greater genetic diversity

Result of crossing different breeds so narrowing genetic pool

Wide range of appearances, sizes, and colors

More standardized appearance

Valued for historical significance and preservation

Bred for optimized production purposes

Well-suited for a variety of purposes

Specialized for specific production traits

May have longer lifespans and natural reproductive abilites

Primarily bred for commercial production, less likely to be used for natural breeding

Bantams

Some large chicken breeds have a bantam counterpart, sometimes referred to as a miniature. Miniatures are usually one-fifth to one-quarter the size of the standard breed, but they are expected to exhibit all of the standard breed's characteristics. A true bantam has no large counterpart, and is naturally small. There are only a few true bantams, with the Seabright being one.

Popular Chicken Breeds

First up, let's talk about some true-blue Aussie favorites. The Australorp, renowned for its exceptional egg-laying abilities, hails from Australia. These hardworking ladies can lay up to 300 brown eggs per year, making them a staple in many Aussie backyards. Their shiny black feathers shimmer like the night sky, and their friendly nature makes them a delight to have around.

Other beloved and well-known chicken breeds include the Rhode Island Red, Plymouth Rock, Leghorn, Sussex, Orpington, and Wyandotte All these breeds are stars of the backyard chicken-keeping scene. In my Webinar I go into a lot more detail exploring their size, temperament, and egg production to help you make an informed choice for your flock.

Specialty Chicken Breeds

Prepare to be dazzled by the unique and lesser-known chicken breeds. Silkies, Polish, Frizzles, Seramas, and Cochins boast distinctive physical features that set them apart. From fluffy feathering to extravagant crests, these breeds are sure to add charm and character to any coop. 

Some of these speciality breeds are especially well suited to a backyard environment due to their small size.

Dual-Purpose Breeds

Many of our heritage favourties fall into the dual purpose category, which is great for those seeking versatility, egg-laying and meat production. While some homesteaders are not interested in dispatching their own animals for meat, I have found those who are trying to homestead full-time or for an income, are very keen to become completely self-sufficient. Meat birds are a simple way to do this even with only a small amount of land.

Our favourites in the dual purpose world are the Australorp, Jersey Giant, and New Hampshire breeds, which excel in both meat and egg production. The benefit of raising dual purpose is you will always have meat and eggs! 

I have raised both hybrid meat and heritage meat, each having pro’s and con’s. Hybrid grow out within 8 weeks making them super cheap and efficient, however they seem prone to dying if you keep them past the 8 week mark. Heritage meat birds take longer to grow out but I find they are hardy healthwise and bigger, and I think, better quality meat.

Chicken Breeds that Lay Different Colored Eggs

I have a soft spot for my Easter Eggers, I think its so cool that nature has given us these amazing coloured eggs.

Breeds that lay unusual eggs are Aracuana, Ameraucana, Cream Legbar, Maran, Barnevelder, Welsummer, Olive Eggers and Easter Eggers. Olive and Easter eggers arent actual breeds but the result of crossing brown egg layers with the blue egg layers, given a genetic difference to the offspring. 

The colours you can get vary from very dark browns to blue, green and even a pink tone.

Hybrid Layers

Hybrid or sex-link chicken breeds are next on our list, bringing with them impressive egg production and efficiency. The ISA Brown, Golden Comet, and Red Star are renowned for their ability to deliver a consistent supply of delicious eggs. They are essentially laying machines, hence why they are the bird of choice for commercial egg producers. 

While I love all our girls I find these don’t have the same personality traits as our heritage breeds. There egg production will drop off after about 18 months and most commercial produces will remove them at that age as they are no longer feed to egg ratio efficient.

Rare and Exotic Breeds

Some breeds are much harder to obtain in either Australia or the USA and these include Ayam Cemani, Crèvecœur, Dragon Chickens, Phoenix, and Appenzeller Spitzhauben. Some of these birds are keep and bred for showing purposes due to their unique appearances. 

Groups like the Rare Breeds Trust are making conservation efforts to ensure the breed continues but you would likely find it hard to obtain these breeds.

Breed Selection Considerations

Before choosing a chicken breed, it's crucial to consider various factors and I go into detail in my Webinar on Chicken Breeds. The main considerations are forage abilities, climate suitability, egg-production, space requirements, noise levels, and breed availability. Choosing carefully can mean you have a flock that fits into your family and circumstances beautifully, ensuring a harmonious and thriving flock in your backyard.

Personal Preference

I have no problem in saying that personal preference plays a part in your choice, and so it should. When you choose to add a dog or cat into your home you would pick a breed that you prefer. Even if choosing a dog or cat from a shelter, personal preference will still be a factor. 

So don’t feel bad that you have a preference over chicken breeds! While I would like to have all the chickens, its not practical, so you need to narrow it down.

No matter which breed you choose, owning chickens is as varied as a dog or cat ownership. 

Each of our girls has their own special personalities and we love them all. Some are chatty, some will follow you around, some have beautiful or funny feathers and some lay coloured eggs.

Chicken Coops

Size and Space: The coop should be spacious enough to comfortably accommodate the number of chickens you plan to keep. As a general guideline, provide at least 0.3m2 (4 square feet) per chicken inside the coop and 0.7 - 0.9 m2 (8-10 square feet) per chicken in the outdoor run area.

Security: Even in an urban environment, chickens still have predators. It is vital that coops are predator-proof to keep your chickens safe from predators like neighbourhood dogs, cats, birds of prey and rats. Use sturdy materials, secure locks, and wire mesh with small openings to prevent entry.

Ventilation: Proper airflow is crucial to prevent moisture buildup and ammonia fumes. Include vents or windows that can be opened and closed to regulate temperature and airflow within the coop. The best way to tell if you need more ventilation is to put your head into your coop, if the smell of ammonia is strong to you then it's also strong for them.

Nesting Boxes: Provide comfortable and private nesting boxes for your hens to lay their eggs. Each nesting box should be around 30x30 cm and lined with clean bedding material, such as straw or wood shavings.

Roosting Bars: Chickens prefer to roost off the ground. Install sturdy and appropriately sized roosting bars or branches inside the coop, allowing 15-20 cm of space per chicken. This is way more important than new chicken owners think.

Easy Cleaning: Design the coop with easy access for cleaning. Include a removable tray or floor that can be easily cleaned and replaced with fresh bedding. New bedding options are crushed metal and coffee grounds. Poop can easily be collected with a kitty litter scoop.

Natural Light: Incorporate windows or skylights to allow natural light into the coop. Natural light helps regulate the chickens' internal clock and can positively impact their overall health and egg production. 

Weather Protection: Consider weather conditions in your area and ensure the coop provides adequate protection from rain, wind, and extreme temperatures. Proper insulation and weatherproofing can help keep your chickens comfortable.

Feeding and Watering: Include feeding and watering stations that are easily accessible and protected from contamination. Consider hanging or elevating feeders and waterers to prevent spillage and keep them clean.

Noise Reduction: Chickens can be noisy, especially if you keep roosters, which most councils will not allow. But even noisy hens can cause issues. If you have close neighbours, consider soundproofing measures or opt for quieter chicken breeds that don't produce loud crowing.

Remember to check your local council zoning regulations for any specific requirements or restrictions regarding coop construction and placement in urban areas. 

I have spoken before about fighting your council if they refuse. Gather information about victory gardens and regenerative agriculture, and prepare yourself for the arguments they may present. 

Prioritize the well-being, safety, and comfort of your chickens when designing and building the coop.

Link to some nice chicken coops (no affiliation ... yet)

https://mjbinspired.au/

Nutrition for Backyard Chickens

Balanced feed: I know a lot of people who are homesteading like the idea of making their own chicken feed, and indeed I think you could provide supplemental feed for chickens from homegrown produce. However, that being said, commercially formulated, balanced chicken feed will always meet the nutritional needs of your flock. And as we will discuss later it's the vitamin and minerals that need to be included to ensure abundant egg-laying.

Protein requirements: Chickens need a sufficient amount of protein in their diet, particularly when they are growing or laying eggs. Baby chicks have special dietary requirements but from 6-7 weeks onwards they need 17-18% protein, and laying hens need around 16%. During a moult or wintertime, they can be fed a diet of up to 20% protein.

Calcium for eggshell production: Calcium is crucial for strong eggshell formation, so make sure to provide a calcium source such as crushed oyster shells or calcium supplements.

Grit for digestion: Chickens don't have teeth, so they need grit (small rocks or commercial grit products) to help them grind and digest their food properly. There are two types of poultry grit: oyster shell grit and flint grit. Oystershell grit is a type of calcium that helps make eggshells stronger. Insoluble grit, also known as flint grit, helps chickens with digestion. You can purchase this with both types of grit premixed.

Freshwater: Ensure a constant supply of clean, fresh water for your chickens. Water is essential for digestion, nutrient absorption, and overall health. Drip feeders with stay cleaner but you need to ensure they are always working. Appropriate treats: While treats can be given in moderation, avoid excessive feeding of sugary, fatty, or processed foods. Stick to healthy treats like fruits, vegetables, and mealworms. If you want to feed scratch mix try to limit it to once a week as we have noticed performance drop when they are having too much scratch.

Access to forage: Allow your chickens to forage in a secure outdoor area if possible. This allows them to supplement their diet with bugs, worms, grass, and other natural food sources. Seasonal considerations: Adjust your chickens' diet based on seasonal variations in activity levels, temperature, and egg production. Certainly, you could purchase pellets with a higher protein content during the winter months.

Limiting toxins: Avoid feeding your chickens harmful substances like caffeine, alcohol, chocolate, onions, garlic, and mouldy or spoiled food. There is always debate about what can or can’t be fed to chickens.

Nutritional deficiencies: Be aware of common nutritional deficiencies in chickens, such as vitamin deficiencies (e.g., vitamin D, E, or B12) or mineral deficiencies (e.g., selenium, zinc, or iodine). Consult with a veterinarian if you suspect any deficiencies or imbalances in your flock's diet.

Calcium Deficiency: Calcium is essential for the formation of strong eggshells. A lack of calcium in the diet can result in thin or weak eggshells, shell-less eggs, or an increased likelihood of egg breakage.

Protein Deficiency: Protein is crucial for egg production. Inadequate protein intake can lead to decreased egg production, smaller eggs, or eggs with poor shell quality.

Vitamin D Deficiency: Vitamin D is necessary for proper calcium absorption. A deficiency in vitamin D can hinder calcium utilization, resulting in soft or thin-shelled eggs and reduced egg production.

Vitamin E Deficiency: Vitamin E plays a role in reproductive health. A lack of vitamin E may cause reduced fertility, decreased hatchability, or abnormal embryo development.

Vitamin B12 Deficiency: Vitamin B12 is important for energy metabolism and nerve function. Deficiency can lead to reduced egg production and poor eggshell quality.

Selenium Deficiency: Selenium is an essential trace mineral involved in various metabolic processes. Its deficiency can result in reduced egg production, poor hatchability, and weak immune function.

Iodine Deficiency: Iodine is necessary for proper thyroid function, which affects overall metabolism and egg production. A deficiency in iodine may lead to reduced egg production or delayed sexual maturity in pullets.

Omega-3 Fatty Acid Deficiency: Omega-3 fatty acids contribute to the nutritional quality of eggs. Chickens fed a diet deficient in omega-3 fatty acids may produce eggs with lower levels of these beneficial fats.

Remember, nutritional needs may vary depending on factors such as breed, age, egg production, and health conditions. If you are unsure find a produce or stockfeed shop near you and speak to someone there. They usually have a wealth of information about the different feeds.

Both of our local stockfeed stores have also ordered new feed in for us, and we have then given them feedback about the results from the feed to help improve their knowledge also. It's important to note that nutrition deficiencies are typically the result of imbalanced or inadequate diets.

I can’t stress enough that commercial well-balanced chicken feed will give your flock the best coverage for the least effort on your part. If you then supplement with appropriate treats, access to forage, and necessary mineral sources can help prevent these deficiencies and support optimal egg production.

Enrollments open on the 10th of June and close on the 16th of June. With the course starting on 17th and running for 6 weeks.

Perfect time to do the course if you are considering chickens in spring.

Go to the web page to get on the list and you can choose either a Free PDF with 7 must know’s or a webinar on which breed of chicken is right for you.

https://www.mojohomestead.net/7mustknows

https://www.mojohomestead.net/breedwebinar

The Great Plant-Based Con - is a fantastic book that explains regenerative agriculture really well.

https://thegreatplantbasedcon.com/

Why Should You Grow Your Own Eggs?

Enrollments open on the 10th of June and close on the 16th of June. With the course starting on 17th and running for 6 weeks.

Perfect time to do the course if you are considering chickens in spring.

Go to the web page to get on the list and you can choose either a Free PDF with 7 must know’s or a webinar on which breed of chicken is right for you.

https://www.mojohomestead.net/7mustknows

https://www.mojohomestead.net/breedwebinar

Getting Started with Backyard Chicken Keeping

The push for plant-based (vegetarian and vegan) diets uses the claim that is it better for the environment.

Farmers have got blamed for so long but it really comes down to how many flights and drives you want to take each year and humans need to have endless supplies of electricity to their houses.

Mono cropping is needed to produce the high level of demanded plant-based products. This style of agriculture affects soil health by damaging the ecology, reducing topsoil, increasing the need for synthetic fertilizers, increasing the use of pesticides and producing low-nutrient food.

Utilising livestock to increase soil health not only reverses all these things but it also prevents deforestation and desertification in large areas of the earth. So if demand for pasture-raised meat and animal products increases then the earth will be healthy.

Humans and their energy usage are the main problems when it comes to greenhouse gases and there is no way to stop humans transport and energy costs as people would refuse to give up flying, driving and electricity.

So the best and easiest way to reduce greenhouse gas emissions is to eat a meat-based diet.

Emissions by sector of Greenhouse gases

https://ourworldindata.org/emissions-by-sector

Important links if you would like to learn more about this.

Allan Savory - TedX Talk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpTHi7O66pI

Joel Salatin - PolyFace Farms

https://polyfacefarms.com/

Richard Perkins - Ridgedale Farms

https://www.richardperkins.co/about/

https://www.ridgedalepermaculture.com/

Molly and John Chester - Apricot Lane Farms

https://www.apricotlanefarms.com/

I am currently listening to The Great Plant-Based Con by Jayne Buxton and can highly recommend it! She’s saying all the things that I have been thinking about. She has done all the research. https://www.hachette.com.au/jayne-buxton/the-great-plant-based-con-why-eating-a-plants-only-diet-wont-improve-your-health-or-save-the-planet

Real Life Medicine - Their podcast is amazing

https://www.rlmedicine.com/meet-the-doctors

Dr Anthony Chaffee - fantastic resource

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzoRyR_nlesKZuOlEjWRXQQ

So please do your own research and understand all the facts before you decide. And remember to grow the life you want to live.

I have been questioning my knowledge of diet styles in an effort to improve my own health. The information I have been gathering is indicating that we have been lied to by the dietary associations of our countries. 

It disappoints me that government bodies that are supposed to help us are very likely making us sicker.

Some of the things I covered in this episode are below, including the links mentioned.

From 10,000 BC until 2,200 BC humans survived on a primarily meat-based diet. Not moving to crops until the bronze age after 2200 BC. Rice and potatoes not becoming commonplace until after 1485.

Buddist - Practice non-violence against all living things, however, I have travelled through Tibet and Nepal and can confirm that they will eat meat and animal products, as long as the animal has not been killed specially for them.

Hindus - mostly practice Vegetarianism, but not veganism as they consume milk. It should be noted that they avoid many vegetables also.

Around the mid-1700s in the USA, many religious groups became vegetarian due to the temperance movement. The common belief is that masturbation, overindulgence and violence, can be controlled by a vegetarian diet.

Leading this belief is the Seventh Day Adventist Church, whose founder Ellen G White, who although not vegetarian herself, received visions from God that followers of their church should abstain from the flesh and milk of animals, as they are as bad as tobacco and alcohol. SDAC it should be no surprise went on to find the massive processed food giants Sanitarium and Kellogg's. It surprised me to find how many SDA members were sitting on associations and boards in America and Australia that directly influence the dietary associations in those countries.

It is such a tangled web that I cannot describe it better than Belinda Fettke, who is the wife of the Australian Dr who they attempted to silence when he spoke out against high carbohydrate diets being fed to his diabetic patients while in hospital. He was threatened with de-registration because he was advising patients to eat low carbohydrate healthy fat diets in order to lose weight to avoid amputations!

It stuns me that a Dr in Australia in the 2000s could be looking at de-registration because he is healing his patients. WTF!

The Background of Dietary Guidelines by Belinda Fettke, wife of Dr Gary Fettke https://isupportgary.com/articles/evolution-of-plant-based-dietary-guidelines

Other research indicated our change in diet to predominantly plant-based is actually affecting our kids. 

Keto diets are also showing excellent results in relation to other health issues. Keto Diet - ADHD and Autism https://www.dietdoctor.com/low-carb/adhd-autism

An excellent and very thorough read on this topic is a book I am currently listening to on audible, The Great Plant-Based Con by Jayne Buxton and can highly recommend it! She’s saying all the things that I have been thinking about. She has done all the research. https://www.hachette.com.au/jayne-buxton/the-great-plant-based-con-why-eating-a-plants-only-diet-wont-improve-your-health-or-save-the-planet

A fantastic podcast is posted by these ladies, with great information and real facts. Real Life Medicine - fantastic podcast by Dr Lucy Burns and Dr Mary Barsons

https://www.rlmedicine.com/meet-the-doctors

Dr Anthony Chaffee - American Dr now living in Australia, who lives a carnivore lifestyle, and certainly backs up his statements with facts.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzoRyR_nlesKZuOlEjWRXQQ

I am disappointed that the Australian and American Dietary Association have basically told us what to eat based on who had a vested interest. Arent these associations meant to be non-biased and do what is best for their citizens? I am definitely not a "conspiratorial" type of person, but it is horrendous that government agencies are ignoring the best health for their communities, over who is paying them so that they can sell more cereal-based products.

Next week we'll talk about the other issue with plant-based diets.

CJ Discusses the things you need to consider when making an income from homesteading. Does it pay? We discuss the different products you can produce with homesteading, pricing and hard to enter fields. 2 things to keep in mind "Do the things you love" "Area's that are hard to get into have much less competition"