What's really inside that bargain fashion buy? Or that cheap new World Cup soccer strip?

In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman talks to Steve Lamar CEO and of the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) to discuss the results of new lab tests on counterfeit products, with some quite disturbing findings. He's not just talking about fake logos, but chemicals at unsafe levels and online marketplaces that may know more than they're letting on. Steve also shares what the industry is doing to fight back, and whether it's enough.

This episode is brought to you by Andritz — global leaders in sustainable textile technology and textile recycling solutions. Learn more at andritz.com

In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, we go inside the development of Lenzing's newest TENCEL™ Lyocell innovation - HV100 - a fibre engineered to deliver the texture, drape and authentic wash-down character of cotton which was created in record-breaking time!

Johnny Truong and Julia Ulrich, from Lenzing, walk host Philip Berman through the market signals that they say sparked the idea, the technical hurdles of getting it into production, and why this fibre is opening doors for lyocell in denim's most coveted position - the warp.

This podcast is brought to you in a paid partnership with Lenzing.

At the moment, organic cotton farmers in countries such as India and Pakistan earn an average of just $1000 a year.

Meanwhile, premiums are stacking up through the supply chain, brands are charging more at retail, but the people actually growing the crop see only a fraction of the value.

In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman talks to Bart Vollaard from the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) about why he believes the current premium model isn't delivering for the farmers it's supposed to support, and reveals OCA's ambitious new strategy to change that.

They discuss how a pioneering new farm fund could decouple farmer income from the unpredictability of market premiums, why OCA is broadening its focus beyond economics into the social and environmental realities of farming life, and what it will take to move organic cotton beyond its stubborn 2.5% share of global production.

With 100,000 farmers across 70+ partners, OCA has the data and the relationships to make this work.

But as Bart explains, it won't happen without more brands stepping up.

Essential listening for anyone in sourcing, sustainability, or cotton supply chain leadership!

Istanbul Organic Cotton Summit

If you enjoyed this podcast why not check out others about cotton in our back catalogue...

Detecting fraud in the organic cotton chain

Are environmentalists to blame for cotton's declining share of the textile fibre market?

Monitoring organic cotton from space

Ecotextile Talks host Philip Berman speaks with ThredUp's Chief Strategy Officer Alon Rotem about the company's "resale as a service" model, from white-lable branded resale shops to multi-brand clean-out schemes that can turn underused wardrobes into store credit.

They discuss what the real driver is for consumers, how ThredUp's distribution centres work at scale, why brands decide to plug into this infrastructure than trying to build it themselves.​

They also discuss what happens to the garments that do not sell, ThredUp's aftermarket partners, and what % of items entering its ecosystem end up without a second life.

Philip and Alon also look at how California's new extended producer responsibility law could accelerate brand adoption of circular business models.​

Alon shares ThredUp's latest financial trajectory, the company's decade-long investment in technology, and how AI could transform the consumer experience of the resale sector, and potentially help them to finally return a profit after going public in 2021.

Links mentioned in the podcast

ThredUp's 2025 annual impact report

ThredUp's quarterly financial filings

British Vogue reporting on Yale's study about second-hand shoppers

This episode is presented in association with Techtextil North America, the premier trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens, taking place from 4–6 August 2026 in Raleigh, North Carolina.

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Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman talks to Frank Michel, CEO of the ZDHC Foundation, about why he thinks cleaner chemistry is becoming a hard ESG requirement rather than a nice-to-have for the global textile value chain.

They explore how ZDHC has evolved from its original Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) focus into a broader nature-impact lens that links process chemistry to water quality, biodiversity, climate, and investor risk.

Frank explains the thinking behind ZDHC's new impact framework, developed with environmental consultancy Quantis, which uses lifecycle assessment (LCA) and facility-level data to model how switching from conventional to ZDHC‑conformant chemicals can cut pollution indicators – with early pilots suggesting local reductions of 80–96% when compliant formulations replace non-compliant ones.

They discuss why this work matters for ESG ratings, and why major rating agencies are now asking sharper questions about chemical risk, in an industry some investors increasingly compare to the fossil fuel one, from a risk perspective.

https://www.roadmaptozero.com/zdhc-quantis-report-2025

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In partnership with the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA), host Philip Berman takes listeners on a virtual journey to ITMA ASIA + CITME in Singapore with guests Alex Zucchi of CEMATEX, Jason Kent CEO of the BTMA, and Richard Slack of Fibre Extrusion Technology.

In advance of the exhibition which starts on October 28 in Singapore, they explore how European and UK manufacturers are positioning themselves amid global shifts in textiles, from sustainability and circularity to the rise of technical textiles.

Alex explains why ITMA's format remains unique.

Jason highlights the UK's innovation-driven approach and the importance of Singapore as a neutral, accessible hub for Asian markets.

And Richard offers insight into how technical textile machinery manufacturers are differentiating through R&D, partnerships with universities.

Together they discuss how the textile machinery sector is responding to global supply challenges, and the growing demand for technical and high-value materials.

Host Philip Berman talks to Kim Glas, President and CEO of the National Council of Textile Organizations, about the impact of Trump's tariffs on US textile manufacturing.

Kim discusses the challenges posed by tariff unpredictability, including the effects on investment and supply chains, and the winners and losers in the industry.

She highlights issues in machinery sourcing, the effect of high tariff rates on synthetics, and the role of major trade agreements like USMCA and CAFTA.

Kim also addresses reshoring opportunities, and the strategic need for policy certainty to strengthen domestic production.

Did environmental campaigners really contribute to a decline in cotton's global share of fibre production?

Well, according to a rather punchy opinion piece in Cotton Grower a couple of months ago, the answer is a resounding, yes.

The article claims that environmentalists have been intellectually dishonest and fed a binary narrative of cotton bad, synthetic fibers good….which created pressure from watchdogs and investor ESG mandates…which then led to brands moving away from conventional cotton to synthetics…and as a result we are now awash with cheap synthetics clothing.

Now, this is a lot to leave at the door of environmentalists, and this polemic seemed a bit lop-sided, so to balance things out we thought it would be good to talk to Ecotextile News' dedicated Cotton Correspondent Simon Ferrigno, who has also done his fair share of environmental campaigner over the years.

Do people like Simon have a case to answer for?

In the podcast, we also turn the article's claim on its head - and ask whether the cotton industry should pay more attention to the many environmentalists' trying to make cotton production more sustainable and efficient.

Innovations discussed by Simon Ferrigno

Food spray

Avalo machine learning

How to subscribe to Ecotextile News

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Following Ecotextile Talks

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In this edition, made possible with the support of Textile Exchange, host Philip Berman is joined by its Chief Strategy Officer, Ashley Gill, and mohair farmer and textile producer Frances Van Hasselt.

Frances is at the heart of mohair production in South Africa - a country that supplies more than 50% of that fiber used in the world's textile industry.

She is involved in everything from farming her family land, home to 7,000 Angora goats, to landing high-end fashion deals.

Her family has also received accolades, winning the Miyuki Award 10 years in a row - a Japanese prize for the best quality mohair, produced globally under the most sustainable practices.

In the conversation, Frances explores how being rooted in the land shapes every aspect of her work.

She also discusses the challenges and pride associated with local production, and along with Ashley, explains the role that Textile Exchange's standards play in connecting small producers to the global supply chain.

Also covered:

• The realities and rewards of mohair farming in South Africa - Frances VH reveals the biggest challenge facing her, and farmers the world over.

• Why Textile Exchange is introducing a unified Materials Matter Standard and how will this affect Frances and her fellow tier four producers?

• Textile Exchange unveils unified standard
• Textile Exchange reveals five year strategy

• Frances Van Hasselt's Textile Company

• Textile Exchange

How to subscribe

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Following Ecotextile Talks

Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.

While on his travels in Indonesia, our correspondent Shivam Gusain speaks to Philip Berman about his latest Ecotextile News article on decarbonising the textile industry, fossil fuel subsidies, and polyester taxation.

Speaking within the current context of the volatile tariff war between the US and supply chain countries like China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh, Shivam advocates for fiscal approaches that reduce the cost of sustainable alternatives rather than excessive taxation.

He emphasises the interdependence of fossil fuels and global stability, saying that removing subsidies and applying levies are deeply political acts.

The full article "Carbon taxes will halt textile sector progress" features in our August 2025 print edition – out today – and is available here on our digital platform for premium members.

You can read the full story in print or online, while at the same time supporting the work that we do to improve the environmental and social profile of our industry, by becoming a member of our global community.

How to subscribe

https://www.ecotextile.com/membership-account/membership-levels/

Following Ecotextile Talks

Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts.