In this episode, host Philip Berman sits down with Dr Talia Hussain, whose recent academic paper on circular fashion sparked lively debate across the industry. 

Dr Hussain, a PhD in design innovation and MBA, is known for her critical analysis on the mainstream circular fashion narrative. 

Together, they take a deep dive into the promises—and potential pitfalls—of circularity in the textile sector, with a particular focus on the influential 2017 Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) and its A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future report.

Key Topics Discussed

The EMF’s $460 Billion Claim

Dr Hussain questions the widely cited figure from the EMF report, its assumptions and real-world implications for industry revenues and the potential size of the reuse sector.

She explains why she thinks greater scrutiny is needed when using such reports to drive regulation, and discusses what gets overlooked when focusing solely on circular models.

Further Reading & Resources

Dr Talia Hussain’s academic paper:

The Emperor’s old clothes: a critical review of circular fashion in gray literature

The Ellen MacArthur Foundations 2017 Report:

A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future 

How to Listen & Subscribe

Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts. 

For more news and analysis, visit our website at ecotextile.com.

Contact & Feedback

For questions, feedback, or to suggest a guest, email [email protected]

In light of their 2024 Annual and Sustainability Report, Philip Berman catches up with Krishna Manda, Lenzing’s VP corporate sustainability, and Thomas Matiz, Lenzing’s global product sustainability lead, to chat about Lenzing's GHG emissions reporting, what is needed to achieve net-zero, and how Lenzing supports its customers and partners in achieving its climate goals.

If you want to trace Lenzing's sustainability journey via Ecotextile Talks - do please check out our previous episodes featuring Lenzing guests:

2023

Viscose Voyages - uncovering Lenzing's plans in Indonesia

Inside the minds of sustainable shoppers

2022

How Timberland and Lenzing tackled traceability

How Lenzing has its sights set on a zero carbon target

2021

Why Lenzing is big on biodegradability

2020

Textile fibre traceability - is blockchain the answer?

Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music or have a look around our complete podcast archive here.

Host Philip Berman talks to Maxine Bedat, Executive Director at New Standard Institute, the official sponsor of the Fashion Environmental Accountability Act, a new bill introduced into the California State Assembly at the start of February 2025 which, if enacted, would become the first law in the country to require brands to engage in “environmental due diligence” concerning their products and supply chains.  

This Californian Bill is essentially the same as the 'New York Fashion Act' which was introduced into the New York State legislature in 2022 - though it’s not yet law - and which is also backed by Maxine, The New Standard Institute and a broad coalition of industry folk including influential names such as, Rothys, Everlane, Reformation, Eileen Fisher, Patagoina, ThredUp, Circ, Vestiaire Collective, Stella McCartney, Ganni, Faherty, Cotopaxi, NRDC, Sierra Club, Canopy, Trove, EVRNU, American Academy of Pediatrics. Full list at thefashionact.org

Maxine talks about both bills, their purpose, what stage they have reached in the legislative process. what it’s like trying to push through groundbreaking legislation in two states on opposite sides of the US, simultaneously, whether her work has become harder with President Trump in the White House, and how she manages to build broad support with politicians of all persuasions.

Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music or have a look around our complete podcast archive here.

What's the best way to Net Zero?

In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman explores the pathway to net zero in the textile industry with Pauline Op de Beeck, Climate Portfolio Director at the Apparel Impact Institute, and wet processing expert and Ecotextile News contributor Phil Patterson

They discuss the newly released: "Low Carbon Thermal Energy Roadmap" which provides guidance on how the textile industry can reach net zero by 2040, with a particular focus on electrification and renewable energy adoption in major textile manufacturing countries.

Key Topics Discussed

> The thermal energy challenge in textile manufacturing, where 80% of energy consumption is thermal energy primarily generated by burning fossil fuels

>The importance of electrification as the ultimate path to net zero, with proper timing being crucial

>Analysis of five key textile producing countries: China, India, Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Indonesia

>Forecasting when facilities should transition to electric technologies based on renewable energy availability and cost

>The dangers of premature electrification before renewable energy is sufficiently available

>The new industry benchmarking tool being developed to help brands and manufacturers track energy uses and emissions. 

More details of the Apparel Impact Institute's Climate Solutions Portfolio grant applications open until March 31, 2025

Host Philip Berman discusses the findings of a groundbreaking 2024 study on the problem of plastic leakage in the textile industry with one of its co-authors Dr. Jesse Daystar, Cotton Incorporated's Vice President and Chief Sustainability Officer, and Dr. Patricia Holden, Bren School of Environmental Science and Management at the University of California, Santa Barbara.

We reveal just how significant the fashion industry's contribution to global plastic pollution is, explore potential solutions and discuss the broader implications for sustainability in fashion.

Other studies mentioned in the podcast:

The Effect of Denim Fabric as a Feedstock in Large Scale Composting of Manure/Bedding and Food Scraps

Microfibers generated from the laundering of cotton, rayon and polyester based fabrics and their aquatic biodegradation

Impact of dyes and finishes on the aquatic biodegradability of cotton textile fibers and microfibers released on laundering clothes 

Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on  Apple, Spotify, and Amazon Music or wherever you listen. 

Or visit our  Ecotextile News website to find out more on this issue.

Host Philip Berman explores the fascinating world of biogenic carbon storage in cotton garments with Dr. Richard Venditti, from North Carolina State University, Steve Pires from Cotton Incorporated, and Emily Graham from Carhartt.

Together, they delve into the climate benefits of cotton and how it can play a crucial role in the textile industry's sustainability efforts.

We cover the following topics

• Biogenic Carbon Storage: how cotton garments can act as temporary carbon sinks, reducing greenhouse gas emissions and mitigating climate change.
• Dynamic vs. Static Life Cycle Assessment: an explanation and discussion of dynamic LCAs, how they account for the timing of emissions, and how it can reveal a more accurate picture of cotton's environmental impact.
• Sustainability Strategies: a discussion on some of the practical ways to extend the life of cotton garments

Link to the 2024 study (from the Bioresources journal) we discuss in depth in the podcast:

Evaluating cotton apparel with dynamic life cycle assessment assessment: The climate benefits of temporary biogenic carbon storage 

For more information about Cotton Incorporated 

Find out more about our daily news website and pioneering printed magazine Ecotextile News at: www.ecotextile.com that's been reporting on environmental and social issues in fashion and textile supply chains since 2006.

In this episode, host Philip Berman sits down with Michael Schragger, Founder & Executive Director of the Sustainable Fashion Academy, to discuss the fashion industry's complex journey towards sustainability. 

Fresh off the release of STICA’s Progress Report from the end of 2024, Schragger gives a unique insight into the successes and challenges Scandinavian fashion companies face striving to meet climate targets, with lessons for the whole industry.. 

We discuss:

• Surprising findings from his annual survey of 55 leading Scandinavian companies working in this sector;

• The Sustainability Paradox - why companies struggle to align financial growth with environmental goals;

• The role of EU regulations in shaping corporate behavior and forcing faster change;

• Why circular business models are struggling to take off.

Looming large over the whole conversation is the question of whether the mass fashion industry can truly redesign itself to meet climate targets, or are current models unsustainable? 

Our host Philip Berman sits down with Marie-Jeanne Gaertner, project and policy officer at RREUSE (Reuse and Recycling European Union Social Enterprises) to find out why the textile reuse and recycling sector in the European Union is facing an unprecedented crisis.

Gaertner says that a recent open letter to the European Commission and member states, penned by RREUSE, explains why the sector is on the brink of financial collapse, with social enterprises bearing the brunt of this turmoil.

She notes how the current 'crisis', which has seen several notable business failures in 2024, is unlike any previously encountered.

She claims that up to 16% of the textiles collected in some regions are simply waste that cannot be used and will need to be disposed – at a significant financial cost.

She adds, “So now that there are more and more opportunities to resell products on a consumer-to-consumer basis, we observe that consumers tend to resell themselves the most valuable items and donate or throw out the non-reusable ones."

What's discussed:

• RREUSE represents over 1,200 social enterprises across 30 countries, all dedicated to collecting, sorting, and repurposing textiles.
• These enterprises collected approximately 337,000 tonnes of textiles in 2023.
• They are now struggling with a growing influx of low-quality donations due to ultra-fast fashion.
• Blames the textile recycling problems on overconsumption of low quality apparel.
• Says impending regulation will only add fuel to the fire.
• Talks about required financing mechanisms to keep sector healthy to meet EU circularity goals.

Find out more about our daily news website and our pioneering printed magazine Ecotextile News at: www.ecotextile.com that's been reporting on environmental and social issues in fashion and textile supply chains sicne 2006.

This episode of Ecotextile Talks explores the legal challenge facing fast fashion company Shein as it considers listing on the London Stock Exchange (LSE). 

In the summer UK based charity, Stop Uyghur Genocide, asked the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) to reject any potential request from Shein to list on the LSE. 

At the moment, we don't know for sure whether Shein has submitted a request to the FCA so as we all wait, we thought that it would helpful for a lawyer to take us inside the legal case against Shein's listing on the London Stock Exchange.

Not just any lawyer, but the one representing Stop Uyghur Genocide, Ricardo Gama from the UK law firm Leigh Day. 

We discuss:

1. The legal basis for opposing Shein's potential listing, focusing on the UK Modern Slavery Act and the Proceeds of Crime Act.
2. How these laws could apply to Shein's operations, even though the company produces goods outside the UK.
3. The alleged evidence presented to the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) regarding forced labor in the Uyghur region and its alleged connection to Shein's supply chain.
4. Shein's response to the allegations and correspondence from Leigh Day
5. The potential next steps in the legal process, including the possibility of a judicial review if the Financial Conduct Authority approves any potential Shein's listing.

In the interests of balance and journalistic integrity, we emailed Shein on 25th September to give it an opportunity to respond to the allegations being made in this podcast by Leigh Day, on behalf of Stop Uyghur Genocide, in particular that its supply chain allegedly features forced labour, and the consequential handling of criminal property in breach of the UK Proceeds of Crime Act.

We asked Shein for either a recorded interview to include at the end of this podcast, or a written statement but as of September 30th no one from Shein had replied.

In the podcast we also invited Shein to record a follow-up podcast with us, to respond to the content of this one.

If you would like to read more about the, "NCA and its failure to investigate imports linked to forced labour - see this Guardian article  

If you're interested in this issue, then you might like to listen to another recent edition of Ecotextile Talks entitled: "Can we trust textile factory audits in China?" which has an interview with the Executive Director of the Worker Rights Consortium, Scott Nova.

In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, we explore the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDD). This significant new European law entered into force on 25 July 2024 and will be rolled out in phases. 

Hosted by Philip Berman and featuring Alexander Kohnstamm, Executive Director of Fair Wear, this discussion sheds light on the critical need for companies to uphold human rights and environmental protections throughout their supply chains. Key questions covered include:

• How will the CSDD reshape human rights due diligence practices in the textile industry?
• What specific compliance measures must companies implement to align with this directive?
• In what ways is Fair Wear assisting businesses in navigating these new regulations?

Alexander also shares details about Fair Wear's upcoming Human Rights Due Diligence Academy, which officially launches on October 9th. This initiative aims to equip companies with the knowledge and tools necessary for effective compliance. For further information, visit HRDDacademy.com or reach out via email at [email protected]