Did environmental campaigners really contribute to a decline in cotton’s global share of fibre production? 

Well, according to a rather punchy opinion piece in Cotton Grower a couple of months ago, the answer is a resounding, yes.

The article claims that environmentalists have been intellectually dishonest and fed a binary narrative of cotton bad, synthetic fibers good….which created pressure from watchdogs and investor ESG mandates…which then led to brands moving away from conventional cotton to synthetics…and as a result we are now awash with cheap synthetics clothing. 

Now, this is a lot to leave at the door of environmentalists, and this polemic seemed a bit lop-sided, so to balance things out we thought it would be good to talk to Ecotextile News’ dedicated Cotton Correspondent Simon Ferrigno, who has also done his fair share of environmental campaigner over the years.  

Do people like Simon have a case to answer for?

In the podcast, we also turn the article’s claim on its head - and ask whether the cotton industry should pay more attention to the many environmentalists' trying to make cotton production more sustainable and efficient.

Innovations discussed by Simon Ferrigno

Food spray

Avalo machine learning

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In this edition, made possible with the support of Textile Exchange, host Philip Berman is joined by its Chief Strategy Officer, Ashley Gill, and mohair farmer and textile producer Frances Van Hasselt.

Frances is at the heart of mohair production in South Africa - a country that supplies more than 50% of that fiber used in the world’s textile industry.

She is involved in everything from farming her family land, home to 7,000 Angora goats, to landing high-end fashion deals.

Her family has also received accolades, winning the Miyuki Award 10 years in a row - a Japanese prize for the best quality mohair, produced globally under the most sustainable practices.

In the conversation, Frances explores how being rooted in the land shapes every aspect of her work.

She also discusses the challenges and pride associated with local production, and along with Ashley, explains the role that Textile Exchange's standards play in connecting small producers to the global supply chain.

Also covered:

• The realities and rewards of mohair farming in South Africa - Frances VH reveals the biggest challenge facing her, and farmers the world over.

• Why Textile Exchange is introducing a unified Materials Matter Standard and how will this affect Frances and her fellow tier four producers?

• Textile Exchange unveils unified standard
• Textile Exchange reveals five year strategy

• Frances Van Hasselt’s Textile Company

• Textile Exchange

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While on his travels in Indonesia, our correspondent Shivam Gusain speaks to Philip Berman about his latest Ecotextile News article on decarbonising the textile industry, fossil fuel subsidies, and polyester taxation.

Speaking within the current context of the volatile tariff war between the US and supply chain countries like China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh, Shivam advocates for fiscal approaches that reduce the cost of sustainable alternatives rather than excessive taxation.

He emphasises the interdependence of fossil fuels and global stability, saying that removing subsidies and applying levies are deeply political acts.

The full article “Carbon taxes will halt textile sector progress” features in our August 2025 print edition – out today – and is available here on our digital platform for premium members.

You can read the full story in print or online, while at the same time supporting the work that we do to improve the environmental and social profile of our industry, by becoming a member of our global community.

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Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts. 

Fresh off a flight from the ZDHC Impact Day in The Netherlands, John Mowbray gives a quick overview of the talking points at this week’s Amsterdam event to Philip Berman for a short 'from our own correspondent' edition of Ecotextile Talks.

Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts and radio shows by following us on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music.

Also, take a look at our complete podcast archive.

In this episode of Ecotextile Talks our host, Philip Berman, is joined by Shivam Gusain a former innovation analyst at Fashion For Good, and now an independent consultant and writer.

The conversation was inspired by his recent substack post entitled: 'Crash Testing the Circular Economy.' in which he argues that we should investe in 'failure', not just success, to reveal the real boundaries of textile-to-textile recycling.

Drawing on his experience across industry, engineering, and business, Shivam discusses with Philip what we can learn from other industries, and challenges us to reconsider where our money, attention, and optimism are best spent.

Listen in as Shivam asks some tough questions every apparel and textile industry professional should be considering.

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Previous stories on the topic

Renewcell troubles:

https://www.ecotextile.com/2024032648446/news/features/renewcell-when-risk-doesn-t-equal-reward/ 

For more news and analysis, visit our website at ecotextile.com.

Shivam's substack

Contact & Feedback

For questions, feedback, or to suggest a guest, email [email protected]

In this episode host Philip Berman sits down with  Dr Talia Hussain whose recent academic paper on circular fashion sparked lively debate across the industry. 

Dr Hussain, a PhD in design innovation and MBA, is known for her critical analysis on the mainstream circular fashion narrative. 

Together, they take a deep dive into the promises—and potential pitfalls—of circularity in the textile sector, with a particular focus on the influential 2017 Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) and its A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future report.

Key Topics Discussed

The EMF’s $460 Billion Claim

Dr Hussain questions the widely cited figure from the EMF report, its assumptions and real-world implications for industry revenues and the potential size of the reuse sector.

She explains why she thinks greater scrutiny is needed when using such reports to drive regulation, and discusses what gets overlooked when focusing solely on circular models.

Further Reading & Resources

Dr Talia Hussain’s academic paper:

The Emperor’s old clothes: a critical review of circular fashion in gray literature

The Ellen MacArthur Foundations 2017 Report:

A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future 

How to Listen & Subscribe

Ecotextile Talks is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music, and wherever you listen to podcasts. 

For more news and analysis, visit our website at ecotextile.com.

Contact & Feedback

For questions, feedback, or to suggest a guest, email [email protected]

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In light of their 2024 Annual and Sustainability Report, Philip Berman catches up with Krishna Manda, Lenzing’s VP corporate sustainability, and Thomas Matiz, Lenzing’s global product sustainability lead, to chat about Lenzing's GHG emissions reporting, what is needed to achieve net-zero, and how Lenzing supports its customers and partners in achieving its climate goals.

If you want to trace Lenzing's sustainability journey via Ecotextile Talks - do please check out our previous episodes featuring Lenzing guests:

2023

Viscose Voyages - uncovering Lenzing's plans in Indonesia

Inside the minds of sustainable shoppers

2022

How Timberland and Lenzing tackled traceability

How Lenzing has its sights set on a zero carbon target

2021

Why Lenzing is big on biodegradability

2020

Textile fibre traceability - is blockchain the answer?

Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music or have a look around our complete podcast archive here.

Host Philip Berman talks to Maxine Bedat, Executive Director at New Standard Institute, the official sponsor of the Fashion Environmental Accountability Act, a new bill introduced into the California State Assembly at the start of February 2025 which, if enacted, would become the first law in the country to require brands to engage in “environmental due diligence” concerning their products and supply chains.  

This Californian Bill is essentially the same as the 'New York Fashion Act' which was introduced into the New York State legislature in 2022 - though it’s not yet law - and which is also backed by Maxine, The New Standard Institute and a broad coalition of industry folk including influential names such as, Rothys, Everlane, Reformation, Eileen Fisher, Patagoina, ThredUp, Circ, Vestiaire Collective, Stella McCartney, Ganni, Faherty, Cotopaxi, NRDC, Sierra Club, Canopy, Trove, EVRNU, American Academy of Pediatrics. Full list at thefashionact.org

Maxine talks about both bills, their purpose, what stage they have reached in the legislative process. what it’s like trying to push through groundbreaking legislation in two states on opposite sides of the US, simultaneously, whether her work has become harder with President Trump in the White House, and how she manages to build broad support with politicians of all persuasions.

Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on Apple, Spotify and Amazon Music or have a look around our complete podcast archive here.

What's the best way to Net Zero?

In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman explores the pathway to net zero in the textile industry with Pauline Op de Beeck, Climate Portfolio Director at the Apparel Impact Institute, and wet processing expert and Ecotextile News contributor Phil Patterson

They discuss the newly released: "Low Carbon Thermal Energy Roadmap" which provides guidance on how the textile industry can reach net zero by 2040, with a particular focus on electrification and renewable energy adoption in major textile manufacturing countries.

Key Topics Discussed

> The thermal energy challenge in textile manufacturing, where 80% of energy consumption is thermal energy primarily generated by burning fossil fuels

>The importance of electrification as the ultimate path to net zero, with proper timing being crucial

>Analysis of five key textile producing countries: China, India, Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Indonesia

>Forecasting when facilities should transition to electric technologies based on renewable energy availability and cost

>The dangers of premature electrification before renewable energy is sufficiently available

>The new industry benchmarking tool being developed to help brands and manufacturers track energy uses and emissions. 

More details of the Apparel Impact Institute's Climate Solutions Portfolio grant applications open until March 31, 2025

Host Philip Berman discusses the findings of a groundbreaking 2024 study on the problem of plastic leakage in the textile industry with one of its co-authors Dr. Jesse Daystar, Cotton Incorporated's Vice President and Chief Sustainability Officer, and Dr. Patricia Holden, Bren School of Environmental Science and Management at the University of California, Santa Barbara.

We reveal just how significant the fashion industry's contribution to global plastic pollution is, explore potential solutions and discuss the broader implications for sustainability in fashion.

Other studies mentioned in the podcast:

The Effect of Denim Fabric as a Feedstock in Large Scale Composting of Manure/Bedding and Food Scraps

Microfibers generated from the laundering of cotton, rayon and polyester based fabrics and their aquatic biodegradation

Impact of dyes and finishes on the aquatic biodegradability of cotton textile fibers and microfibers released on laundering clothes 

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Or visit our  Ecotextile News website to find out more on this issue.