Everyone and their dog (literally) are out in the line-up when the waves are small. With a slight swell and a vast crowd, it’s easy to get what we call “wave-hungry.” When the line-up is wave hungry is when people get ugly. That’s one of the reasons I enjoy big wave surfing so much more than small wave surfing. Size in the ocean weeds out the crowd in a hurry.

When it’s critical…when there is serious consequence for failure…the respect in the line-up goes up dramatically. In big wave surfing…the percentage of high-character people in the line-up is in stark contrast to the ratio on small days.  You say you want to change the world? You’d like to make a difference? It all starts by figuring yourself out and getting WITH IT.

Very few people understand the concept of Self Actualization. Actualization has everything to do with relating to life as it ACTUALLY happens. We are either in accord with life…right here, right now…accepting it on its terms and conditions…rather than wishing we could bend it to suit our lower-tiered desires…or we are off to never-never land fixated on happy horseshit where we imprison ourselves in fortresses of fantasy. Life unfolds ONE way…an ACTUAL way…and it is indifferent to your commitment to moping, complaining, or wailing away. Let the dead bury the dead. AND GET WITH IT!

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