In this episode, we step into the opulent world of Charles Frederick Worth, the visionary widely recognized as the "father of haute couture" and the inventor of Parisian haute couture itself. This podcast offers an exclusive look at the groundbreaking "Worth: Inventing Haute Couture" exhibition at the Petit Palais in Paris, an event "waited for for 100 years" and the first retrospective of its kind dedicated to the House of Worth.

Discover how a penniless Englishman built a fashion empire, establishing revolutionary practices still relevant in luxury fashion today. Worth transformed fashion from a mere craft into an industry by creating without waiting for commissions, signing his works like an artist, and organizing production by seasons. His workshop at 7 rue de la Paix became the epicenter of a dynasty that spanned four generations.

Uncover the unseen story behind the exhibition itself, a colossal four-year undertaking that involved "months of filming behind the scenes" [66, 73, Previous Conversation]. We'll take you behind the velvet ropes with the "golden hands" of conservators and registrars, revealing the extraordinary challenges of preserving garments, some originally created to be worn for only a few days and not necessarily intended for long-term preservation. Hear about the meticulous processes, from choosing the right mannequins for each delicate piece to the painstaking "petal-by-petal" repair of fragile floral details, which for some pieces took "two people a full 30 days". You'll also learn how priceless items are carefully prepared and transported in "silk paper sarcophagi" to prevent new creases.

This exhibition, a monumental collaboration between the Petit Palais and the Palais Galliera, features over 400 pieces – garments, sketches, paintings, and accessories – telling a vast and captivating story. We'll tease insights into:

• The fashion of iconic figures like Empress Sissi and the legendary Countess Greffulhe, whose "mythical Byzantine gown" famously eclipsed her daughter at a wedding and inspired Marcel Proust.
• Unique garments like a Tea Gown that belonged to a prominent 19th-century American socialite, and the famous "robe aux lys" from 1896, with its hidden American repairs revealed by X-rays.
• A fascinating cape made from a reused traditional Uzbek coat (Bukhara caftan) gifted by Tsar Nicholas II, transformed by Worth into a fashion garment – a piece that raises questions about cultural dialogue and appropriation.

Explore how Worth shaped fashion silhouettes, from the widespread crinolines to the dramatic bustles, and delve into the lasting legacy of his family, including the crucial role of his wife, Marie Vernet, his muse and first living model.

Don't just read about it. Tune in to this podcast to get a unique perspective on Charles Frederick Worth's genius, the incredible effort behind this historic exhibition, and why Paris remains the capital of creation. The "Worth: Inventing Haute Couture" exhibition runs from May 7 to September 7, 2025, at the Petit Palais. This is an opportunity "that will never be made again".

Explore the unique creative universe of Belgian fashion designer Dries Van Noten. Drawing on his own words and those close to his work, this episode delves into his design philosophy centered around instinct and the art of mixing diverse elements – from contrasting fabrics and prints to blending historical references with contemporary styles. Learn how inspiration comes from everything around him, including art, music, film, history, archive pieces, and simply looking at the world. We discuss his fashion shows, known for telling a story and casting a mixture of ages and genders, and hear how music is matched to the collection's mood and vibe. Discover insights from the "Inspirations" exhibition, an intimate journey through his creative process that showcased the links between his clothing, art, and various influences, highlighting collaboration with museums and artists. We also touch upon the notable collaboration with Christian Lacroix, seen as a blend of two worlds and an evolution outside of the usual comfort zone. This episode offers a deep dive into how Dries Van Noten has consistently searched for a different beauty and pushed fashion forward by embracing tension, contrast, and the joy of creation. Creation for him has never been part of a master plan but something very personal.

Today, we uncover the strategic necessity behind Chanel's acquisition of struggling independent firms since 2002, including legendary houses like Lesage (embroidery), Lemarié (feathers and flowers), Desrues (jewelry and buttons), Goossens (jewelry), Massaro (bootmaker), Maison Michel (milliner), and Causse (glovemaker). These firms, grouped under the division appropriately named Paraffection, meaning "Out of Affection," were not just purchases; Chanel needed these ateliers as the means to execute their creative vision.

Discover the birth and evolution of the annual Chanel Métiers d’Art Collections. Initially conceived by Karl Lagerfeld as a way to make the work of the acquired artisans better known, these presentations began in 2002 at 31, rue Cambon, specifically showcasing the skills of houses like Lesage, Lemarié, Massaro, Desrues, and Maison Michel.

Join us as we explore the groundbreaking nine-year tenure of Maria Grazia Chiuri at Christian Dior. As the first female creative director, Chiuri profoundly impacted the iconic French brand, infusing it with feminist messaging and challenging traditional notions of femininity and power in fashion.

Discover her bold statements, from the viral "We Should All Be Feminists" T-shirt – a quote from Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie – that she fought to include and sell, to her extensive collaborations with female artists.

We examine how Chiuri used her position to provide visibility and space for female artists.

We also discuss her recent departure, marked by her final cruise show in Rome, which felt like a "beautiful confusion" and an "elegiac swan song", and the speculation surrounding Jonathan Anderson as her likely successor.

Join us as we delve into the recent announcement that South Korean actor Jung Hae-in has become a global ambassador for the Italian luxury fashion house, Dolce & Gabbana.

In this episode of Fashion Deep Dive, we explore a Gucci-sponsored project that celebrates the history and significance of bamboo within the brand. Artists and designers were invited to engage with bamboo as a material they might not typically use, resulting in unexpected and creative applications. The project, titled "Bamboo Encounters," highlights the contrasting qualities of bamboo, such as its organic nature and surprising strength, and explores themes of craftsmanship, lightness, and the intersection of tradition and modernity. Through conversations with the participants, the sources reveal the process of working with bamboo, from research and inspiration to the creation of diverse works, including kites, sculptures, and textile pieces, emphasizing the joy of discovery and the connection to anonymous artisans. The project underscores bamboo's transformation from a practical material used in historical Gucci items to a symbolic and versatile element that continues to inspire contemporary design.

Today we're diving deep into the "Crafted World" of LOEWE, the luxury house's first major brand exhibition.

This ambitious showcase celebrates nearly two centuries of brand history, its rich history, Spanish heritage, and an unwavering commitment to the handmade.

Designed as an immersive experience steeped in art, culture, and a unique sense of play, it unfolds through thematic spaces featuring archival pieces, recent collections, and collaborations.

Join us as we explore the strategic thinking behind the exhibition's launch.

This episode of Fashion Deep Dive delves into the Diorexquis collection as a fascinating blend of high jewelry artistry, natural inspiration, historical setting, and complementary fashion, showcased in a manner that evokes beauty, craftsmanship, and a touch of enchantment.