After nearly half a century, and an estimated 14,000 meals, Fay Maschler's putting down the cutlery as the Evening Standard's chief restaurant critic. She talks to our Reveller editor David Ellis about her pioneering career, from the death threats she received as a young woman to the "compost of average restaurants" she had to wade through to find those true gems. What is her favourite restaurant. And is Marco Pierre White really the best chef this country's ever produced? 

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