Forward Momentum

What's happening, watch fans? I am back with another episode in my live collection. I have really enjoyed traveling to and getting to meet with brands, retailers, and collectors, and having the opportunity to record these episodes in person.

In this episode of Forward Momentum, my guests are Franco Ziviani and Federico Ziviani of Gerald Charles, and we are joined by Alex Kats of Geneva Seal, JDR, and Gregwatchman.

We discuss the history and legacy of the brand, the importance of preserving Gerald Genta's vision, and the passion and emotion behind their watches. From a retailer and collector side, we discuss the versatility and wearability of Gerald Charles watches, the craftsmanship and engineering behind their designs, and the familial nature of the brand.

We touch on the gem set and sapphire pieces launched at Watches and Wonders, highlighting the brand's commitment to creating colorful and pleasurable timepieces.

Takeaways

• Gerald Charles is a brand that is deeply rooted in the history and legacy of Gerald Genta, and the Ziviani family is committed to preserving his vision.

• The passion and emotion behind Gerald Charles watches are what make them truly special and unique.

• The brand focuses on creating versatile and wearable timepieces that can be worn in various settings.

• Craftsmanship and engineering are key aspects of Gerald Charles watches, with a strong emphasis on functionality and precision.

• The gem set and sapphire watches launched at Watches and Wonders showcase the brand's commitment to creating colorful and pleasurable timepieces.

Key Moments

00:00 Introduction to Forward Momentum and Gerald Charles

01:16 The History and Legacy of Gerald Charles

07:24 Passion and Emotion in Watchmaking

13:20 Versatility and Wearability of Gerald Charles Watches

14:35 JDR weighs in

18:00 Gregwatchman weighs in

18:30 The new Masterlink Collection

25:53 Colorful and Pleasurable: The Gem Set and Sapphire Watches

26:20 The tennis collection (& how Alex's allocation might be decided).

27:30 - Why thin watches?

This week I caught up with Christopher Daaboul of EsperLuxe in his space inside Date & Time in Boston. Chris and I caught up live in the boutique, which was a fantastic atmosphere and Chris shares his journey in the watch industry, from working with his father in wholesale distribution to becoming a retailer of independent watchmakers.

We discuss the significance of independent watchmaking, the diversity of the watch industry, and the emotional connection of collecting. We speak about his favorite brands, his toughest moments, and the need for the world to understand how special these independent brands and watchmakers really are.

Chapters

00:00 Introduction and Background in Watch Industry

03:17 Transition from Wholesale to Retail

06:39 The Birth of Esperlux and the Proof of Concept Year

09:29 Five-Year Anniversary and Milestones in Watch Retailing

This week it is my extreme pleasure to welcome Niels Eggerding to Forward Momentum. Niels is the CEO of Frederique Constant, part of the Citizen Holdings Group. I've wanted to talk to Niels since our panel discussion at Watches & Wonders 2023 on the Frederique Constant Monolithic Oscillator. The brand delivers innovation and incredible watchmaking at a very attainable price point, offering 33 in house movements in addition to their ETA movement powered watches.

Niels discusses the success of Watches and Wonders, the shift in Frederique Constant's product offerings, and the brand's ethos of offering fair-priced, high-quality watches. He also talks about the challenges the brand faces, such as supply chain issues and finding skilled watchmakers. Niels shares his passion for craftsmanship and his vision for the future of Frederique Constant, including potential future watches and his desire to keep innovating with his team.

Takeaways

• Watches and Wonders was a success for Frederique Constant


• The brand has shifted its product offerings to more entry-level and volume-driven watches


• Challenges include supply chain issues and finding skilled watchmakers


• The brand's ethos is to offer fair-priced, high-quality watches


• Niels is passionate about craftsmanship and innovation


• The future of Frederique Constant includes potential collaborations and innovative watch designs

Chapters

00:00 Introduction and Weather at Watches and Wonders

01:56 Shifting Product Offerings

03:46 Challenges in the Industry

06:07 The Ethos of Frederic Constant

09:54 Passion for Craftsmanship and Innovation

In this episode, Stephen McDonnell is back for Round Two to discuss his recent projects, including his experience at Dubai Watch Week and his insights on watch innovation. We explore the inspiration behind the MB&F LM Sequential EVO and the fascinating integration of vintage sports timing into modern watch design.

Stephen's passion for vintage motorcycles, especially Norton, shines through as he discusses his ongoing restoration project. Throughout our conversation, we highlight the importance of relatable human stories in the world of watchmaking.

Stephen shares the journey of pitching the sequential chronograph idea to MB&F and the positive response it received. He delves into the technical challenges faced and the crucial role of geometry in the design process. Stephen also shares the ups and downs, from a disastrous prototype stage to the eventual success achieved through nine months of incremental improvements.

We explore topics like the dynamic effects of high-speed movements, the challenge of inertia in the clutch, and the emotional toll of watchmaking. Stephen reflects on the significance of the LM Sequential EVO winning the GPHG and how it has personally impacted his life.

Finally, we touch on Stephen's fascination with John Harrison's clocks and get a glimpse into his exciting future projects. Tune in to hear the captivating journey of innovation and passion in the world of watchmaking!

Takeaways

• Stephen has been working on finishing projects with MB&F and has started a new project with them as well.


• Stephen gave a talk at Dubai Watch Week titled 'The Trials and Tribulations of Watch Innovation' that received positive feedback and resonated with a wide audience.


• The Sequential EVO was inspired by the challenge of integrating vintage sports timing solutions into a single watch.


• Stephen is passionate about vintage motorcycles, particularly Norton, and is currently restoring one in his garage. Synchronizing the chronograph in the Sequential One watch was a major challenge for Stephen. It took nine months of incremental improvements to solve the problem.


• The dynamic effect of high-speed movements and the challenge of inertia in the clutch were key factors in the chronograph's performance.


• The emotional toll of watchmaking, especially when faced with difficult challenges, can be significant.

• Stephen is interested in John Harrison's clocks and has a fascination with master clocks for future projects.

Chapters

00:00 Introduction and Plans for Watches and Wonders

01:10 Stephen's Recent Projects

03:42 Stephen's Experience at Dubai Watch Week

05:13 Stephen's Talk on Watch Innovation

06:27 The Importance of Relatable Human Stories

09:01 The Inspiration for the Sequential EVO

14:29 The Story Behind the Sequential EVO

23:20 Stephen's Interest in Vintage Motorcycles

25:39 Stephen's Norton Motorcycle Restoration

26:16 The Challenges of Watchmaking

28:31 Pitching the Idea to MB&F

33:02 Designing the Sequential Chronograph

36:27 The Internally Dual Vertical Clutch

41:42 Overcoming Technical Limitations

44:24 CAD Design Process

47:29 Challenges in Building the Prototype

52:21 Prototype Tool Disaster

54:33 Catastrophic Prototype Failure

56:18 The Challenge of Synchronizing the Chronograph

58:04 Incremental Improvements in the Sequential Chronograph

59:09 The Dynamic Effect of High-Speed Movements

01:00:32 The Challenge of Inertia in the Clutch

01:03:30 Testing and Solving the Chronograph Problem

01:05:25 The Impact of the Chronograph Challenge

01:06:16 The Recognition and Price of the Sequential One

01:07:49 The Emotional Toll of Watchmaking

01:10:49 The Personal Significance of the Sequential One

01:14:25 The Significance of John Harrison's Clocks

01:16:01 Stephen's Interest in Master Clocks

01:18:00 Possible Future Projects

01:18:28 Closing Remarks

The book we mention about John Harrison is called Longitude: The True Story of a Lone Genius Who Solved the Greatest Scientific Problem of His Time by Dava Sobel.

I caught up with Felix Baumgartner of URWERK during Geneva Watch Week. We caught up on the SpaceTime Blade, the UR-230 launched at Dudai Watch Week, and the recently released UR-100 Lightspeed. We speak about how URWERK's watches help you see and feel our palce in the universe, and how URWERK is a singularity in watchmaking. Their design is so focused on the end-user and so deeply philosophical, that it is hard to understand their product without hearing Felix and Martin describe it, because everything is there for a reason, and those reasons are deeply rooted in the history of time, clockmaking, and human history.

Sylvain Pinaud and I discuss his journey in independent watchmaking and the unique atmosphere in Sainte-Croix, where he is based. He talks about the beauty of the surroundings, including the mountains and forests, and the independent spirit of the watchmakers there. Sylvain also mentions the helpfulness of the watchmaking community and their willingness to share tricks and tools. It is clear that he feels a deep gratitude to be part of such a creative and supportive environment. 

This conversation explores the experience of being a watchmaker and the creative process involved, emphasizing the uniqueness and satisfaction of creating something tangible. Sylvain’s workshop that specializes in creating unique and innovative timepieces. He emphasizes the importance of balance and harmony in his work, and how he strives to create something different and unique. Sylvain also talks about his future projects and his love for creating and experimenting with mechanical devices. You can find Sylvain on his website and @horlogerie_sylvain_pinaud

Vianney Halter has been creatively, financially, and spiritually independent as a watchmaker since he made the Antiqua. I caught up with him at the AHCI in Geneva during Watches & Wonders week to discuss Vianney's journey in the watchmaking industry and his decision to start his own company. Vianney shares his experiences working with François-Paul Journe and the challenges he faced as an independent creator. 

We talk about the importance of independent watchmaking and the unique stories behind these brands. Vianney discusses his journey as an independent watchmaker and the meaning of independent watchmaking. He shares how he started his career by chance and became hooked on watchmaking. Vianney talks about the challenges of being an independent watchmaker and the importance of selling his work to survive. He also highlights the role of the internet in making it easier to share his creations and connect with people around the world. 

Kari Voutilainen discusses his new tourbillon watch inspired by his pocket watch from 30 years ago. He talks about the joys and challenges of creating the design and making all the pieces by hand. The dial layout is unique, with an ellipse shape and a small second at 5 o'clock. The watch is part of a limited series with customizable colors and guilloche patterns.

Kari's workshop has 37 people, including watchmakers, decorators, and support staff. They currently produce around 60-70 watches per year and have plans to expand their workshop and increase production.

Takeaways

• Kari Voutilainen's new tourbillon watch is inspired by his pocket watch from 30 years ago.


• The dial layout of the watch is unique, with an ellipse shape and a small second at 5 o'clock.


• Kari sees the tourbillon is a nice function in the watch that increases its accuracy, when done correctly.

• Kari's workshop has 37 people and currently produces around 60-70 watches per year.


• They have plans to expand their workshop and increase production.

I have to admit, coming into Geneva Watch Week I was jaded. I was burnt out on the watch industry. I was feeling uninspired. In fact, the long winter of no new releases that I wrote about in my What’s Changing in Collecting in 2024 even caught me up. Landing in Geneva on Monday morning, I was prepared to be uninspired by releases during Watches & Wonders and the entire Watch Week.

But then, everything changed.

The novelties from Watches and Wonders and Geneva Watch Week left us feeling a little uninspired, but we are focused on the trends and highlights of the event. My guest, Paul Blandofrd, and I discuss the evolution rather than revolution that we saw this week, with brands making changes to their lineups and focusing on dial swaps and material changes. We are also seeing peak trend towards smaller case sizes and an increase in gem setting. For us, highlights include the DeBethune DB28 XS Purple Rain, as well as the Fleming watch and the Urwerk Spacetime Blade.

This week was as much about the watches as it was about catching up with friends across the industry.

Takeaways

• The watch industry is experiencing an evolution rather than a revolution, with brands making changes to their lineups and focusing on dial swaps and material changes.

• There is a trend towards smaller case sizes and gem setting.

• The DB28 XS Purple Rain from De Bethune, the Fleming watch, and the URWERK Spacetime Blade were standout watches at the event.


• OnlyWatch is back in May and we cannot wait to see what the event brings!

Chapters

• 00:00 Introduction and Overview of Watches and Wonders at Geneva Watch Week

• 04:26 Standout Watches: DB28 XS Purple Rain, Fleming, and Urwerk Spacetime Blade

• 11:41 Reflections on Geneva Watch Week and Looking Forward