Forward Momentum

Today I welcome URWERK Co-founder and head of design at URWERK, Martin Frei as my guest on Forward Momentum.

Martin is a wealth of knowledge on the philosophical thinking and design at the root of URWERK. He has created and amazing design language at URWERK that puts the humans and collectors at the center of their design.

We begin our discussion with the UR-230, URWERK’s latest release from Dubai Watch Week and the evolution of the 200 series. We talk about one of my biggest questions about the watch: why is there no power reserve indication of any kind on a watch that can be made fully manual?

We then discuss the future of the 200 series, and the deeply philosophical side of watchmaking, and Martin’s belief that the power reserve indication is an indication of how much you love your watch. We spoke about how URWERK has a current focus on chronometry and how that focus may change in the future. We finished our conversation with a deep dive into what independent watchmaking means to Martin.

This was a great discussion and I hope you enjoy it!

1:57 - the UR-230

2:30 - The evolution of the UR-200 Series

9:38 - Urwerk Watches are Evolution

14:00 - The UR-230 Winding System and protection Mechanism

18:54 - The Turbine and airflow controls on the UR-200 series

27:18 - Why there is no power reserve indication on the UR-230

31:10 - Where is the 200 Series Going

35:20 - The Power Reserve Indication is the indication of how much you love an object

38:30 - The future of URWERK

40:00 - Focused on the chronometry side of watchmaking

43:00 - What does independent watchmaking mean to you?

46:00 - Independence is a Luxury

46:30 - Do you feel a need to protect watchmaking?

48:14 - What’s one thing you wish people knew about the watch industry?

51:52 - Where can people find you

Today’s guest is someone who thinks differently about the watch and the watch industry; none other than the founder of Ressence, Benoît Mintiens. Benoît is an industrial designer who has worked on trains, planes, and firearms. As a generalist at an industrial design consultancy, Benoît had the opportunity to work on so many different products and projects that have inspired and influenced his design language at Ressence. 

Benoît is not a watchmaker. He is an industrial designer, and this has given him fresh eyes on the watch. He took away the crown, the hands, and the dial. He wanted to find an organic way to tell time that is intuitive, and would be a product that would be designed today if no watches existed prior to Ressence. 

He is incredibly passionate about watchmaking, considers every watch a miracle, and is a humble and interesting guy who clearly thinks deeply about design. I hope you enjoyed the show, please leave me a rating, refer a friend, and consider signing up for my newsletter. 

You can find Ressence at: https://ressencewatches.com/

Time callouts:

• 2:30 - Design, Benoît’s Background, and design

  
  



• 7:00 - The Development of Ressence

  
  



• 10:00 - Case Design philosophy, making something that feels natural and like it is a part of you. 

  
  



• 14:07 - Completely redesigning a watch for the 21st century

  
  



• 15:00 You can always evolve and get better 

  
  



• 17:54 - How you define independent watchmaking & influences

  
  



• 20:45- Respect for other watchmakers because you go through the same trials and tribulations and why comparison between independent watchmakers and industrialized brand is not realistic

  
  



• 24:53 - How long is the design process for a new Ressence product?

  
  



• 27:00 - Why additive manufacturing (3D Printing) will not be the savior of the watchmaking industry

  
  



• 33:39 - The problem with consulting, and using his creativity in a recurring way

  
  



• 39:00 - Designing a watch and the relationship between wearer and watch.

  
  



• 44:00 - A Product that Benoît would like to design

  
  



• 52:00 - Succession planning and the future of Ressence

  
  



• 56:00 Rapid Fire Round

  
  

Maximilian Büsser is the founder and creative director of Maximilian Büsser and Friends, MB&F. It’s a watch brand, a gallery, and a movement to promote independent watchmaking. His brand, MB&F, exists to inspire people to think differently, to inspire people to be more creative, and to inspire people to take risks. MB&F, in a nutshell, exists to create communities around mechanical and kinetic art that happens to tell the time.

He’s the philosopher king of watchmaking. I love speaking to Max, because there is always some deep wisdom to take away from a conversation with him. When I was editing this conversation, there is so much discussion of creativity in this episode, it was a joy to listen to. Max has worked in the watch industry for his entire career, has seen it all, and wanted to do things differently.

He speaks about how most decisions at MB&F have been knee-jerk reactions to ideas, and how this isn’t the best way to run a company, but he has followed his creativity, his passion, and his ideals, and that has allowed him to be completely comfortable with the process. He’s not just a creative, he’s a gallerist who helps give exhibition space to kinetic and mechanical art, and unlike most CEO’s, he actually responds to people on social media, he’s a pure joy and inspiration. You can find Max, MB&F, and of course, the M.A.D. Gallery on Instagram, and you can visit the MB&F website for more info. 

Enjoy the conversation! Please leave a rating or a review - it helps the podcast tremendously, and please share this with your family and friends, or anyone who might learn from or enjoy this conversation. 

• 3:30 - Harry Winston Opus Project

  
  



• 27:04 - Opening the M.A.D. Gallery

  
  



• 33:00 - Creating what you believe in

  
  



• 37:00 Building a community and the importance of “The Tribe”

  
  



• 42:12 - Max’s “Why?” behind MB&F

  
  



• 46:00 - Older projects and Ideas

  
  



• 47:00 - The Creative Process, Horological Machine No. 1

  
  



• 50:08 - The Rapid Fire Round

  
  



• 56:56 - Where to find Max & MB&F

  
  

My guest this week on Forward Momentum is watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, who is the creator behind the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO, and the MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo. He is an incredible watchmaker, a genius, and an incredible storyteller who has gotten to live his passion. He’s the type of watchmaker who when people meet, they stop and listen to him, really listen to him. He has so much knowledge and love for watchmaking that it has nearly driven him mad. His passion is so evident in how he talks about watchmaking and his history with loving clocks and watches. He loves to learn about these technologies and think about how he can revolutionize watchmaking. 

Stephen was one of the guys Peter Speake-Marin called when Max Büsser needed help with his Horological Machine 1. Stephen describes his journey into watchmaking, how watchmaking can sometimes be like being trapped in hell, and how ideas sometimes come from mysterious places. Stephen highlights how important it is to have technical knowledge about watches, and how with that technical knowledge you can fall more deeply in love with the watches in your collection. 

Stephen is obsessed with watchmaking, and admits that forces he can neither understand or control drive him down the path of watchmaking. He’s fascinating - he has loads of stories, he’s been there and done that, and he is so humble about his work. Stephen loves Harrison’s Marine Chronometers, and I have no doubt Stephen will be mentioned in the history of watchmaking alongside Harrison. He’s a deep thinker, he’s an incredibly smart watchmaker, and he’s a guy you’d love to have a beer with. It is my pleasure to welcome Stephen McDonnell to Forward Momentum.

Time callouts:

• 2:00 - Getting his first clock to repair

  
  



• 6:20 - Going to WOSTEP

  
  



• 8:00 - Becoming a WOSTEP instructor and Kari Voutilainen’s Teaching Assistant

  
  



• 9:00 - Repair Clocks and bicycles, and being interested in Steam Engines

  
  



• 10:00 - Being Pre-programmed for watchmaking

  
  



• 12:00 - Teaching at WOSTEP and becoming an independent

  
  



• 13:50 - Peter Speake-Marin

  
  



• 15:00 Designing watches for his first watch & learning CAD

  
  



• 19:50 - Creating the LM Perpetual

  
  



• 24:48 - Designing a mew perpetual calendar - Rethinking the old system

  
  



• 27:00 - Designing the mechanical processor

  
  



• 28:16 - How to develop a watch from an idea - “You start with the bit that is most likely to go wrong.”

  
  



• 34:34 - Prototyping

  
  



• 40:04 - Fabrication and building small parts

  
  



• 43:15 - Taking responsibility for the work

  
  



• 45:00 - How the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Failed, and how Stephen fixed it

  
  



• 52:52 - Watchmaking is an addiction, with all the negative connotations of an addiction

  
  



• 55:45 - Putting his workshop together

  
  



• 56:00 Being a true independent watchmaker 

  
  



• 57:25 - Being reactive as a watchmaker

  
  



• 1:01:50 - Harrison’s Clocks

  
  



• 1:12:04 - What Stephen wishes you knew about watchmaking

  
  

Have you ever wondered what goes into making a
compelling documentary about the world of watchmaking?

In this episode, Dario Nucci, a graphic designer turned film director, speaks about his experience working in the watch industry. We talk about our collaborative documentary project, Seeking Perfect, which provides an inside look at the craft of watchmaking and the story of Denis Flageollet and De Bethune.

Dario shares his journey, discussing his creative process, and his personal connection to watchmaking. We delve into the complexities of independent watch brands and their vital role in keeping the industry vibrant and innovative.

Dario Nucci highlights the significance of collaboration and the synergy between different creative minds, drawing parallels between filmmaking and watchmaking. He also discusses his passion for watchmaking and the importance of telling compelling stories to engage new audiences in this traditional craft. Dario offers a heartfelt account of the gift of a vintage watch from his mother, emphasizing the emotional connection and personal significance that watches hold.

You can find Dario at Alpha/Studio and on Instagram @dario_nucci.

Please let me a review as it helps others find the podcast and helps me to improve, and I'd love it if you'd sign up for my newsletter. I hope you enjoyed this week's show and stay tuned for next week!

Episode 18 - Collecting Independents with Paul Blandford

Ever wondered what's behind the world of independent watchmaking and its fascinating connection to Formula One?  In this episode, Paul Blandford shares his journey from being a car enthusiast to becoming deeply engrossed in the world of independent watchmaking. We explore the essence of independent watchmaking and the creative independence it represents. We speak about the role of social media, particularly Instagram, in connecting collectors and emerging watchmakers. Paul emphasizes the importance of trying watches on in person to truly understand their unique characteristics and how they resonate with you.

Paul's journey led him from car aficionado to a passionate collector of independent watches, a world where horology and engineering merge. Independent watchmaking is characterized by creative freedom, unbridled by corporate constraints. It's a realm where watchmakers like Max Büsser of MB&F, Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei of Urwerk, Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia and others create exceptional timepieces that defy convention and pull at your emotions.

I’ll apologize to you as there is some discussion of Formula1 here that is no longer relevant since we recorded this at midseason! Enjoy the show and let me know if you have any comments!

Key Takeaways:

• Formula1 Talk 12:00 - 26:00

  
  



• Paul Defines Independent Watchmaking 38:41

  
  



• Paul on Independents : 40:24 

  
  



• What makes Independent Watchmakers Different : 44:20

  
  



• What do you get from a independent brand 45:47

  
  



• Advice for collectors- Dubai Watch Week- 46:21 

  
  



• Where to find new indies - 49:51 

  
  



• Do your Research - 52:16 

  
  



• Future of Independent watchmaking - 56:49 - 57:00 - get the watches on your wrist

  
  

You can find Paul on Instagram at @f1ptb, and you can follow me on my site, you can always get the latest over on Instagram, or sign up for my newsletter!

Have a great weekend everyone and we’ll be back next week!

What's happening, watch fans? We'll be back to our regularly scheduled program next week, but this week I highlight some of the new releases from Dubai Watch Week 2023, and boy do they not disappoint. There were rumored to be over 20 new releases for Dubai Watch Week and I think we are there and counting. This is a quick highlight reel of some of my favorite pieces. I'll be working on written reviews as I get the watches in hand, and you can follow those over on my site, you can always get the latest over on Instagram, or sign up for my newsletter!

Hope you have a great week and keep moving forward!

Becoming an Independent Watchmaker with Luca Soprana

Have you ever wondered what it takes to be a master watchmaker and to preserve the legacy of iconic watchmakers? Or have you
ever wondered what it takes to build a watch brand? In this episode, my guest Luca Soprana shares his journey into the world of independent watchmaking and his mission to protect the legacy of Derek Pratt.

Luca discusses his path to becoming an independent watchmaker, emphasizing the need for artisans to protect themselves within the watchmaking industry. He shares his family's history in watchmaking and the importance of precision. Luca also delves into his experiences working with Jacob & Co. and his passion for developing a mechanical signature for his clients and for himself.

Luca's journey into independent watchmaking has been marked by an unwavering commitment to protecting the artisanal aspects of the craft. He shares the philosophy of self-reliance and the significance of creating watches that reflect his core values.

Working with Jacob & Co allowed Luca to challenge himself to create incredible timepieces that pushed the boundaries of watchmaking. He highlights the importance of attention to detail, balance, and solving unforeseen problems in the watchmaking process. Prototyping plays a fundamental role in his work, where he emphasizes the need for patience and the development of unique solutions.

In this conversation with Luca, he shares his perspective on what it takes to make a complete watchmaker and what it means to be an independent watchmaker. “For a lot of people, being independent means putting your name on the dial. For me, being independent is being able to do all your components, do all of your construction, make your own watch, train your team, create a workshop that makes watches, not needing to use many suppliers, but being able to conceive completely what you do. And afterwards if there is someone else’s name on it, what is the problem?”

He’s a fascinating character and I know you will enjoy this conversation with Luca.

Key Takeaways:

• Independent watchmakers must focus
  on protecting themselves within the industry and prioritize originality.


• Commitment to preserving the legacy of iconic watchmakers is crucial, safeguarding their name and contributions.


• The meticulous process of prototyping is integral to achieving the highest standards in watchmaking.

Episode 16: Talking Indies with JDR from Alex Crown 

Welcome to a conversation with our guest today, JDR, the CEO of Alex Crown. With a passion that runs deep, JDR is not just a collector and enthusiast of watches, he's also a driving force in the industry. Join us as we dive into the intricacies of watchmaking, the emotional resonance of timepieces tracing back generations within his family, and the intersection of the horology and the sartorial world. From his first cherished timepiece, a Longines Heritage Retrograde, to his immersion in the realm of independent watchmaking, JDR’s insights are bound to captivate your horological curiosity. Tune in for this and more, as we uncover the hidden stories behind the world of watches. 

• 0:10 - Introduction to the guest, CEO of Alex Crown JDR, and why he is a collector and a watch enthusiast

  
  

• 2:00 - How did watches become a part of his life? 

  
  



• 5:05 - His family has been involved with watches for multiple generations now 

  
  



• 8:15 - The importance of learning about watches

  
  



• 10:55 - His first real watch was a Longines Heritage Retrograde

  
  



• 14:15 - How JDR got into the world of watches

  
  



• 16:55 - The emotional connection between watches and heritage 

  
  

• 20:00 - The power of the watch strap and how it fits into fashion

  
  



• 25:35 - First exposure to independent watchmaking and independent brands 

  
  



• 27:55 - Exploring the Impact: Vianney Halters' Antiqua as the First Noteworthy Independent Watch

  
  

• 30:30  - The story of how he became interested in DeBethune

  
  



• 32:50 - First F.P. Journe Watch, before the brand's rise to prominence 

  
  



• 35:10 - What draws him to an independent watchmaker? 

  
  



• 37:50 - Independent watchmakers: crafting timepieces beyond profit

  
  



• 40:50 - JDR’s journey to becoming an entrepreneur. 40:50 

  
  

• 43:40 - The sense of camaraderie and community in the watchmaking community. 

  
  



• 45:50 - The importance of having a community

  
  



• 48:20 - The younger watchmakers are looking at the trailblazers in the past 10-20 years

  
  



• 51:10 - The future of watchmaking in America

  
  



• 54:00 - A Rapid Fire Round on Watchmaking and Industry Secrets 

  
  

Links: 

• Alex Crown Link - www.alexcrown.com  

  
  



• Instagram: @alexcrownlive

  
  



• JDR’s Instagram @jardin_des_rois 

  
  

You can follow along for more about watches, independent watchmaking, and Forward Momentum on at @fts.creates on Instagram and if you liked the show please like and subscribe and follow along to hear from the retailers, collectors, journalists, and of course the watchmakers about independent watchmaking!

If you want more industry insight, to learn more about independent watchmaking, or learn more about what's going on it in the watch industry, sign up for my newsletter.

As always, please rate and review the show, it's tremendously helpful for me, and I will see you on the next episode of Forward Momentum!