Building a successful demi-fine jewellery brand is one of the hardest challenges in the jewellery industry. Margins are tight, competition is fierce, and success depends on selling significant volume without losing the creativity and identity that made your brand special in the first place.

Laura Vann has done exactly that.

Over the past decade, Laura has built one of Britain's most successful independent demi-fine jewellery brands, with stockists including Fortnum & Mason, Liberty, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges. Rather than competing through ever-increasing advertising budgets, she has grown her business by thinking differently: creating jewellery that's difficult to copy, presenting every collection in a fresh contemporary context, and replacing paid advertising with collaborations, events and genuine relationships that continue to fuel the brand today.

In this conversation, we explore how Laura transformed a family wholesale jewellery business into a distinctive consumer brand, why she believes signature design is your greatest competitive advantage, and how she successfully expanded into bespoke engagement rings and fine jewellery without losing the identity that made her brand so recognisable.

Topics include:

• why building a profitable demi-fine jewellery brand is so challenging

• creating jewellery that's difficult to copy

• developing a distinctive signature style that customers recognise instantly

• why Laura turned her back on Meta and Google advertising

• replacing paid ads with events, collaborations and meaningful relationships

• growing from wholesale into luxury retailers including Fortnum & Mason, Liberty and Selfridges

• expanding from demi-fine into bespoke engagement rings and fine jewellery

• why the best opportunities come from putting yourself in the right rooms

A relaxed, candid conversation about building a jewellery brand for the long term, proving that thoughtful design, commercial thinking and genuine relationships can be far more powerful than following the traditional marketing playbook.

Guest: Laura Vann

Website: https://www.lauravann.com

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lauravannjewellery/

GoldDust Collective is the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers who want to build stronger, more profitable brands. Through expert masterclasses, business resources and an inspiring community of like-minded jewellers, GoldDust helps creatives grow sustainable businesses without compromising their vision.

https://www.katebaxterstudio.com

Discover contemporary engagement rings and bespoke jewellery from some of the UK's most talented independent designers.

https://www.thecutlondon.com

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Instagram: @golddust_by_kate_baxter

Instagram: @thecutlondon

If you enjoyed this episode, please follow, rate and review the GoldDust Podcast. It helps more independent jewellers discover these conversations and supports the future of the podcast. Thank you for listening.

Susannah King has built one of the UK's most recognisable independent jewellery brands by doing almost everything differently. Without a traditional marketing plan, she grew a global audience through TikTok by sharing her creative process, personality and the realities of running a jewellery business.

In this conversation, we explore the unexpected path behind her success, from an unconventional childhood and making silver spoons at university to building a brand known for its bold, colourful and highly personal designs that defy the expected norms of traditional fine jewellery, whilst remaining wildly desirable. Susannah shares how viral content transformed her business, why authenticity has become her greatest marketing tool, and how trusting her instincts has helped her stand out in an increasingly crowded industry.

We also discuss the importance of developing a recognisable creative voice, embracing opportunities as they come, and why building a successful jewellery business doesn't have to mean following the traditional route.

Topics include:

• growing an international jewellery business almost entirely through TikTok
• turning millions of video views into paying customers and bespoke commissions
• why authenticity consistently outperforms polished marketing
• finding your signature style without copying what's already selling
• how childhood creativity shaped an unconventional career in jewellery
• the realities of building a successful brand without following the traditional jewellery industry path
• what independent jewellers can learn about content creation without becoming "content creators"

An inspiring conversation about creativity, originality and building a jewellery business by staying true to yourself.

Guest: Susannah King

Website: www.susannah-king-london.com

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/susannahkinglondon/

GoldDust Collective
https://www.katebaxterstudio.com

The Cut London
https://www.thecutlondon.com

Find out more about GoldDust Collective, the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers at www.katebaxterstudio.com

Follow Kate Baxter at @golddust_by_kate_baxter

and @thecutlondon

Explore more conversations about the business of jewellery by liking and subscribing to the podcast. Thank you for listening!

Rachel Boston has become one of the most sought-after engagement ring designers in London by striking a balance that many jewellers aim for but few achieve: work that feels timeless and familiar, yet still distinctive and recognisably her own.

In this conversation, we explore how Rachel grew her business organically (with no investment!) over more than a decade, evolving from early designer-maker beginnings and trade shows to a refined East London showroom with a strong waiting list for bespoke commissions.

We discuss the turning points that shaped her brand, including the decision to focus on bridal, the importance of carrying a clear signature style through every collection, and the realities of opening and sustaining a physical retail space in one of the most competitive luxury markets in the world.

Topics include:
• defining a recognisable design handwriting that evolves over time
• building a bridal and bespoke business without outside investment
• the role of physical retail in a digital-first world
• how customer expectations around engagement rings have changed
• balancing creative development with commercial consistency
• navigating rising material costs and long-term brand growth

A thoughtful conversation about ambition, risk-taking, and the long-term value of developing a clear point of view in a crowded market.

Episode Notes

Guest: Rachel Boston

Website: https://www.rachelboston.co.uk
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/rachelbostonjewellery/

GoldDust Collective
https://www.katebaxterstudio.com

The Cut London
https://www.thecutlondon.com

Find out more about GoldDust Collective, the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers at www.katebaxterstudio.com

Follow Kate Baxter at @golddust_by_kate_baxter

and @thecutlondon

Explore more conversations on the business of jewellery by liking and subscribing this podcast. Thank you for listening!

In this episode of the GoldDust Podcast, I’m joined by Polly Wales, a true pioneer in contemporary fine jewellery who built her career by challenging many of the traditional rules of the craft.

Known for her cast-in-place gemstone technique, Polly creates pieces that are intentionally organic, unpredictable, and completely unique. We talk about how this unconventional approach first developed, why she never felt entirely at home within the traditional fine jewellery world, and how embracing imperfection became the foundation of her work.

We also discuss the pivotal moment when Polly took the huge step of moving her entire business from the countryside of the UK to Los Angeles, a decision that transformed the trajectory of her brand and helped her find an audience that truly connected with her work.

For independent jewellers, this conversation offers an honest look at creative risk, originality, and what can happen when you build a jewellery career by doing things differently.

Episode Notes

Guest: Polly Wales
Website: www.pollywales.com
Instagram: @pollywales

Find out more about GoldDust Collective, the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers at www.katebaxterstudio.com

Follow Kate Baxter at @golddust_by_kate_baxter

and @thecutlondon

Explore more conversations on the business of jewellery by liking and subscribing this podcast. Thank you for listening!

What really happens when you're the name behind the brand?

Jewellery designer Hannah Martin joins the GoldDust Podcast to discuss the realities of building a career in fine jewellery with her bold, sexy, sculptural designs.

We talk about how she grew her one-woman brand from Central St Martin's graduate to a 3 story East London showroom over the last 20 years. From the pressures of being the name behind the brand, trying stuff that doesn't work, and designing jewellery that isn't for everyone, to the decisions she made that changed everything.

Hannah also shares insights on creative conviction, the power of building a community - if you haven't been to one of her legendary parties you need to - and what it really takes to grow a jewellery business that stands the test of time.

With clients ranging from Rhianna to Zaha Hadid, Hannah Martin is one of the rare fine jewellery success stories where the work remains truly unique, undiluted, and uncompromised.

Episode Notes

01:21 Hannah's early influences and education at Central Saint Martins

02:18 Her experience at Cartier and starting her own brand

02:47 The evolution of her design philosophy and style

07:32 The importance of authenticity in her work

12:10 Launching her first collection and materials used

17:15 Her unique creative process and character-driven collections

23:02 Balancing artistic integrity with commercial success

26:36 Her signature style and recognisability

30:06 Brand growth, studio space, and community building

37:37 Setting trends and her influence on jewellery design

44:16 The significance of her creative space and studio environment

49:50 Business growth, diversification, and her teaching roles

52:29 Bespoke work, bridal, and engagement jewellery

58:36 Lessons learned and mistakes made along the way

01:02:48 The future of her brand and industry insights

Guest: Hannah Martin
Website: hannahmartinlondon.com
Instagram: @hannahmartinldn

Find out more about GoldDust Collective, the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers at www.katebaxterstudio.com

You can also follow the host, Kate Baxter, at @golddust_by_kate_baxter

and @thecutlondon

Explore more conversations on the business of jewellery by liking and subscribing this podcast.

Thank you for listening!