Gus Clemens on Wine explores and explains the world of wine in simple, humorous, fun posts

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Bright side of wine crisis 9-7-2022

Winemakers have a mandatory character trait: resiliency. They certainly have needed that trait in recent years while facing flattening wine sales, dramatic weather worries, global warming, Covid, rising production costs, and supply chain woes.

Resilient winemakers actually see a sliver lining to all of this travail.

Global wine consumption increased only by a disappointing four percent last year. Same time, value increased by 16 percent to $36.15 billion. There were only slightly more sales, but those who bought, bought significantly up. A silver lining for winemakers.

Flip side, supply chain disruptions and inflation pinched profits. Glass for bottles has increased by 20 percent the past two years. Shipping costs soared—up to 300 percent—plus long delays in ports and shipping points. Bad thing for winemakers.

Silver lining: many winemakers transition to more efficient packaging. Lighter bottles. Screw caps. Bonus silver lining—supply chain and port disruptions are abating.

Extreme weather—drought, frost, hail, scorching temperatures—reduced production worldwide by one percent. Premium regions like Champagne, Bordeaux, and Beaujolais saw harvests plunge by 30 percent. Really bad for some winemakers.

Silver lining: in recent years, winemakers fretted about over-production. There is wine from previous harvests to take care of supply for this year and likely another. And production did not decline, it just didn’t increase by much. Wine is worldwide. Plight in one region, plentitude in another.

There is another movement that has been in motion for some years. Recent misery significantly encouraged the movement to organic, sustainable, biodynamic vine growing. The techniques which eliminate artificial chemicals, fertilizers, and pesticides produce quality grapes and better wines. And winegrowers found they deliver significant savings, too. Several vineyards used natural fertilizers and weed control to cut costs in half or more. Better grapes, lower costs. That is a winning formula in testing times for resilient winemakers.

Tasting notes:

• Joseph Carr Josh Cellars Rosé 2020: People who think they don’t like wine will find this pleasantly appealing. $11-15. Link to my review

• Goose Ridge Winery Revelation Rosé 2021: Refreshing, versatile. Clearly built as crowd-pleaser from elite Washington maker headed by women. $18-26. Link to my review

• Chalk Hill Estate Chardonnay, Chalk Hill Appellation 2020: Juicy, fruit-driven, lush, plush opulent example of classic Cali big fruit, butter, oak chard. $35-40. Link to my review

• Adobe Road Carbon 2018: Elegant, pleasantly enjoyable, rich, easy drinking red blend led by petite sirah. $85. Link to my review

Last round: OK, I may not be totally sane. I’ll give you that. But at least all of my personalities agree wine is amazing.

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Pinot noir, chardonnay blends 8-31-2022

Many great wines are blends. Red Bordeaux is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and a smattering of other reds. Southern Rhône GSM wines are grenache, syrah, mourvèdre blends. In whites, sauvignon blanc and semillon enjoy a classic marriage.

When it comes to chardonnay and pinot noir, not nearly so much. In Burgundy, pinot noir and chardonnay cannot legally be blends. With exceptions, that is true elsewhere, even when it is not illegal.

Ah, but always exceptions. Pinot noir and chardonnay are usually blended in Champagne. Champagne, however, is a distinctive style and method of making. It is the exception that highlights the rule.

Sanford Winery La Rinconda Vineyard

Ask a pinot noir or chardonnay maker why they do not blend, and the answer almost always is “the grape is perfect just as it is.” Makers will insist their wines don’t have many—or any—holes to be filled with another variety. Pinot noir makers will snort that blending anything with their delicate, hard-to-grow grape lays waste to its structure and elegance.

There is a caveat. Lower-end, mass-produced pinot noir, especially from California, often is blended with zinfandel or other abundant, cheaper varieties. That is not done to improve quality but to increase production—if 75 percent of the blend is pinot noir, you can call it pinot noir in the U.S. Needless to say, such wines do not employ the highest quality pinot noir grapes. And, needless to say, that is why they don’t taste like pure pinot noir.

Another exception surprisingly comes from Beaujolais, a sub-region of Burgundy. There, pinot noir blends with gamay to create an entry-level wine: Coteaux Bourgignon, an appellation created in 2011. That wine often is made when there is a weak vintage of pinot noir.

You also can find pinot noir and chardonnay as small additions to any number of wines, but this column is about varietally-labeled bottles.

Higher-end pinot noir and chardonnay makers can have reputations as part of the snobbery coterie of the trade. They have no problem with that. They are not trying to blend in.

Tasting notes:

• Metz Road Riverview Vineyard Pinot Noir, Monterey 2019: Single-vineyard, supple, light and airy pinot. $30-35 Link to my review

• Sanford Winery Estate Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills Appellation 2019: Rich, opulent pure chardonnay effort. $40-45 Link to my review

Last round: Why are bacteria so bad at math? Because they multiply by dividing. It all adds up to wine time.

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Italian classification system 8-24-2022

Buying wine can be intimidating. How do you know if the wine is any good without buying a bottle and tasting it? Wine critics may help, but not all wines have a current score and you may find descriptors are just gobbledygook.

Several wine-producing countries have labeling systems to give consumers some insight into quality. Italy introduced its Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) in 1963 to give guidance.

Italy’s system now has four categories. The first two indicate the geographic location where the wine was produced rather than indicating quality. Vino da Tavola (VdT)—“Table Wine”—indicates the fruit did not come from a specific region. Geografica Tipica (IGT)—“Indication of Geographical Typicality”—identifies wines produced in a specific region.

Parmoleto DOCG vineyard

Two designations are intended to signify quality. Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC)—“Controlled Designation of Origin”—is the second-highest quality standard. It can be attributed to almost every style of Italian wine, but winemakers must follow strict guidelines ranging from zoning laws to permitted varieties. There are more than 300 distinct DOCs in Italy, each with its own regulations.

Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) is the highest Italian wine standard. It translates as “Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin.” Italy adopted DOCG in 1980 after complaints that too many DOC wines had variable quality. To earn DOCG status, the wine must undergo taste tests conducted by a government-sponsored and approved committee. There are just 74 DOCGs.

Both DOC and DOCG exist in an additional classification: Denominazione d’Origine Protetta (DOP)—“Protected Designation of Origin.” These require specific production methods and quality standards. DOP does not apply only to wine but to many Italian foods—cheese, olive oil, prosciutto, tomatoes, and more.

Finally, while DOCG and DOC indicate quality, there are DOC wines made with rules more strict than DOCG wines. So, some DOC wines can be higher in quality than some DOCG wines. Wine is not simple. Italian classifications assist, but you still have to buy the wine and taste it.

Tasting notes:

• Parmoleto Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG 2016: Rich, tart expression of sangiovese. Plenty of tasty, assertive red fruit. $19-25 Link to my review

• Vietti Nebbiolo Perbacco, Langhe DOC 2018: Vibrant and relaxed at the same time. Superb, serious wine at this price point. $22-25 Link to my review

• Banfi Rosa Regale Asti Sparkling White Wine DOCG 2020: Honey-sweet with some crispness and moscato affability. Excellent for summer fun. $23 Link to my review

Last round: It is so hot, my crayons are now watercolors. Wine time.

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Sparkling stemware 8-17-2022

The proper Champagne or sparkling wine vessel is a pain in the glass. Wine professionals largely agree on what glass best presents the wine for tasting, but that is not the whole story.

In many ways, the glass depends on the occasion. If it is a celebration pour—a wedding or other large group—a narrow flute may be the best call. Flutes emphasize the column of bubbles, which accentuates the visual experience, which counts among folks who would not drink wine if not for the occasion. As a bonus, flutes don’t hold a large quantity—a nice consideration if you are buying the bubbly.

Image by brittaneu from Pixabay

Flute downside: the top is so small it reduces your aroma and flavor experience. Smelling is 80% of wine appreciation. Of course, depending on the quality of the bubbly you bought, dampening taste could be a feature rather than a flaw.

Coupes are the other classic vessel. The famous legend is coupes are based on Marie Antoinette’s breast. Well, not likely, but whatever. The trouble with a coupe is the opposite of a flute: the opening is so wide aromas don’t concentrate and get lost. As with the flute, that can be a good thing depending on your banquet budget.

OK, flutes flop and Marie-Antoinette-bosom-inspired glasses are a bust; what is the best glass for bubbly? It likely is a glass you already have—a white wine glass, a pinot noir tulip, a smaller red wine glass. You can go higher end from premium makers who sell sparkling-specific offerings. The key is they allow you to enjoy the bubbles and they concentrate the aromas so you can enjoy the brioche and almond notes of quality bubbly.

If you sip bottom shelf sparkling that really is carbonated white plonk, a jelly glass will work fine. If you sip superior—especially if you savor especially superior—consider a glass that allows for complete appreciation. If you can afford the pour, don’t poor-boy the glass. Or use that wineglass you use every day. It will work fine.

Tasting notes:

• Luretta Principessa Blanc de Blancs Brut, NV: Delicate, refined expression of pure chardonnay from Italy. $14-22 Link to my review

• Lanson Champagne Le Black Label Brut NV: Pleasantly complex, crisp; official champagne for The Championship, Wimbledon. $49-50 Link to my review

• Sokol Blosser Blossom Ridge Sparkling Rosé of Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon 2017: Pretty much checks all the boxes. $64-72 Link to my review

Last round: The best shoes for a pilot? Wing tips. Wine time.

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Most searched Napa wines 8-10-2022

Napa is universally recognized as one of the world’s premier wine regions, and you pay to enjoy its exalted pours. How much and which wines get the most attention?

Wine-Searcher maintains a daily updated online list of the world’s wines complete with pricing, scores, and links to reviews and maker websites. It is an invaluable tool I have used for years for prices in my tasting notes and reviews.

Part of their reporting is the number of searches on their site for each wine. That presents a snapshot of what people care about. As you would expect, searches for Napa wines concentrate on big reds. Some 70 percent of all Napa wines listed on Wine-Searcher are cabernet sauvignon, merlot, or blends of the two.

When it comes to searches, a whopping 92 percent are for cabernet sauvignon and its related blends. Searchers either are contemplating buying or enjoying the fantasy of what they would buy if they could buy. Here are the world’s most-searched Napa wines on Wine-Searcher along with an averaged score and price:

1. Opus One. 94 points. $412

2. Dominus Estate Christian Moueix. 95 points. $327

3. Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon. 97 points. $4,765

4. Caymus Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. 91 points. $91

5. Harlan Estate. 96 points. $1,448

6. Joseph Phelps Vineyards Insignia. 94 points. $277

7. Caymus Vineyards Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon. 93 points. $214

8. Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon. 95 points. $967

9. Silver Oak Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon. 89 points. $145

10. Shafer Vineyards Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon. 95 points. $342

The order has been basically unchanged for several years. Opus One, Dominus, and Screaming Eagle remain unchallenged. This year, Caymus nudged ahead of Harlan. Caymus Special Selection moved up two places while Shafer dropped two.

There was an interesting note. It still costs serious money to enjoy these Napa jewels, but there was a significant slowing of price increases. Opus One actually dropped in price from $416 to $412. Likely still not in your Tuesday pizza night budget, but interesting.

Tasting notes:

• Rabble Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2019: Rich, lush dark fruits; 100% Napa cab. $25-36 Link to my review

• Rombauer Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 2018: Bold, ripe-fruit, easy-drinking iteration of Napa merlot. $45-50 Link to my review

• Charles Krug Peter Mondavi Family Reserve Generations, Napa Valley 2018: Delivers subtle elegance; 84% Napa cab. $60-75 Link to my review

Last round: You know it is a hot summer when your electric bill is more than your house payment. Wine time.

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Sauvignon Blanc summer 8-3-2022

Sauvignon blanc is versatile all year, but it particularly shines in the scorching summer we endure this year.

Its crisp acidity and tropical fruit flavors complement lighter dishes and salads. Sauv blanc often is called “salad in a glass.” Nicely chilled, sauv blanc easily is appreciated at the end of a triple-digit day.

Sauv blanc is an uncomplicated wine with vines rambunctiously eager to please. When winegrowers neglect to prune, the wine can have little distinction. That was the case in the 1970s and 1980s when California growers went for quantity instead of quality. Sauv blanc rightly earned a reputation as a cheap jug wine/boxed wine.

Led by Robert Mondavi, some winemakers knew sauv blanc could achieve more and attempted to create a market for “Fumé Blanc” or similar made-up marketing name. Unfortunately, many pursued an oaky style that did sauv blanc no flavor favors.

Then New Zealanders found ways in vineyards and wineries to evoke more fruit expression, creating a style now imitated even in France. Marlborough, in the northern part of the southern island, began producing world-class pours in the 1980s—food-friendly wines with tongue-cutting acidity and vivid citrus fruits.

Much of sauvignon blanc is made to drink young, often released shortly after harvest. That pleases winemakers—they get to turn juice into cash quickly. It also pleases a lot of consumers since you can easily get quality in the $12-18 range.

If you want, however, you can go high-end. Screaming Eagle, Oakville makes a sauv blanc that sells for $5,900—down from $7,180 last year. In France, where wine names come from places and not the varietal, the French call it Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé. Sancerre is on left bank of the Loire River, Pouilly-Fumé on the right bank. Dagueneau Asteroide Pouilly-Fumé goes for $1,791 a bottle. Edmond Vatan Clos la Neore, Sanerre costs $494 a bottle.

Tasting notes:

• Concha y Toro Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Rapel River 2021: Congenial easy drinker rather than boisterous, assertive sauv blanc, but retains SB’s ability to enhance, complement food. $13-16 Link to my review

• Wairau River Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2021: Delivers what you want and expect from a NZ sauv blanc. $15-20 Link to my review

• Aperture Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2020: Dollop of sémillon adds a subtle boost; whole-cluster pressing delivers depth, complexity. $40-45 Link to my review

Last round: This summer has been so hot, when I turn on my sprinkler, steam comes out. Wine time.

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Wine capsules 7-27-2022

What’s with the foil or plastic capsule at the top of a wine bottle covering the cork? More pointedly, what is the point of it in the 21st century?

The capsule once had a purpose: to protect the cork from mold or nibbling critters in dark, dank wine cellars. Not really a problem today.

Wine traditions die hard, and the capsule morphed into a marketing vehicle or was justified because wine bottles always had capsules. Today’s cellars are cleaner, rodent-free, and we drink most of our wine soon after purchase anyway.

Capsules no longer serve a purpose beyond aesthetics and branding. One used, we put capsules in landfills or we leave them on bottles as potential contaminates at the recycling center. They are a cost to the winemaker and, thus, to the consumer. The fanciest capsules can add up to $4 to a bottle. Smaller wineries must rent special equipment to place the capsules on the bottle and pay an extra worker to handle the machine.

Capsules are an unnecessary hassle to sommeliers and regular consumers. The dull “knife” on a corkscrew has a hard time with most capsules, which means every so often the knife does a better job cutting your thumb than it does slicing around the capsule.

Happily, thanks to responsible winemakers, the capsule’s time is passing. When you encounter a bottle without a capsule, don’t imagine it to be an inferior wine. Instead, rejoice. You have encountered a forward-thinking maker who is putting money into the wine and not supererogatory packaging.

Tasting notes:

• 19 Crimes Martha’s Chard 2020: Summer fun wine and a bit more. $10-12 Link to my review

• Ron Rubin Pam’s Unoaked Chardonnay 2020: Tasty fruit with hint of sweetness. $10-15 Link to my review

• Gancia Prosecco Rosé DOC: Delight to the eye, both in the dramatic bottle and in the glass. Light delight. $13 Link to my review

• Pommery Louis Pommery California Brut: Sips like Old World Champagne, but with a fruity California twist. $19-22 Link to my review

• Stags’ Leap Viognier, Napa Valley 2018: Smooth, lovely, accurate presentation of pure viognier. $26-30 Link to my review

• Pedernales Cellars Petite Sirah, Farmhouse Vineyards, Texas High Plains 2018: Rich, smooth, tasty, 100% petite sirah from exceptional Texas winery. $60 Link to my review

Last round: Dear Math Quiz: Isn’t time you grew up and solved your own problems? Wine time.

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Chardonnay 7-20-2022

The past 40 years have been a rollercoaster for chardonnay, the most popular wine in the United States.

As Baby Boomers came of wine-drinking age in the 1970s and 1980s, consumption of chardonnay soared. Growers planted everywhere possible and produced as much as possible, which does not do chardonnay flavors any favors.

In the winery, makers poured grapes into hard-squeeze presses to extract as much juice as possible, aimed for high alcohol, then attempted to cover up flaws with malolactic fermentation and cords of oak. Boomers bought it until their palates matured. Then came the ABC—“Anything But Chardonnay”—revolt.

Fortunately, there were makers who knew how exquisite chardonnay can be and knew how to make it. As Boomers moved up financially, there was a market for their superior product. By the 21st century, chardonnay, especially in California, was embarked upon a golden age for the gold-colored liquid.

Makers took inspiration from Burgundy, chardonnay’s lodestar. Vines were planted in cool-climate vineyards. Pruning focused on growing a few excellent bunches per plant rather than bunches of bunches. “Great wines are made in the vineyard, not the winery,” became the mantra.

Grapes were picked at the peak balance of ripeness and acidity, and harvested in the cool of night and early morning to preserve those qualities. Grapes were lovingly treated. Individual berries were inspected, followed by gentle pressing. Skin contact was held to a minimum to reduce tannins.

Fermentation occurred in temperature-controlled stainless steel, maybe in concrete eggs or oak barrels, or all three so discerning makers could blend. High alcohol was avoided to make the wine more food-friendly. Malolactic? Maybe. Over-done oak? No. Often wines were segregated into their single vineyards of origin to be so bottled and labeled.

The goal was to allow grapes to reflect soil rather than flagrantly flaunt fruit aromas and flavors. The result is opulent, complex, refined, hedonistic pours. Chardonnay has come a long way, baby, from its ABC days.

Tasting notes:

• Siduri Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2019: The leading adjective to describe it is “subtle.” The fruit, as expected from Siduri’s stable of quality grape growers, is excellent. $25-30 Link to my review

• The Mill Keeper Chardonnay, Napa Valley MV: Simply delightful and delightfully simple.  $28 Link to my review

• Ettore Wine Chardonnay Zero, Mendocino 2018: Pure expression of Mendocino chardonnay. $32-42 Link to my review

Last round: My dog used to chase people on a bike. It got so bad I had to take his bike away. Wine time.

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Smaller wine containers 7-13-2022

You demanded wine options. Winemakers heard you and new options—some might call them marketing gimmicks—are being created as fast as they can be dreamed up.

Moving away from 750 ml bottles is a big trend. Wine now comes in once-rare sizes and materials: 375 ml (two pours), 187 ml (one pour) containers—and there are more sizes. They come in traditional glass bottles, plastic bottles, cans, pouches, and even tetra packs usually associated with milk and juice cartons.

Imagination also goes into what goes into the containers. Wander + Ivy, for instance, markets wines created using certified organic grapes from family-owned wineries around the world. The 187 ml container is glass, the closure is plastic. They offer a chardonnay and a cabernet sauvignon from California, a rosé from France, a red blend from Spain, and a pinot bianco from Italy. They sell in 8, 16, and 24-bottle sets at around $8.50 a bottle. Acceptable wine and pricey for the pour, but works if you are a one-glass person.

Wander + Ivy

just enough (lower case name) is a similar play. Their wines come in 250 ml cans sold in six-packs, which is the equivalent of two standard bottles. Your choices include a red blend, a rosé, a chardonnay, and a brut sparkling. All from California. The cost is around $45 a six-pack.

Bonterra offers 250 ml cans of their organically produced sparkling rosé, sparkling brut, sauvignon blanc, and rosé. All from California. The sparkling is sold in single cans for $5, the still wines in four-can packs for $18.

Ubiquitous supermarket wine 19 Crimes offers four-packs of 187 ml plastic bottles of their red blend and their hard chardonnay for $10-12 a pack.

All these deliver acceptable wine. You will not get sublime, but you will not get plonk. Several other brands are available—Private Beach (four 200 ml cans), Kim Crawford (two 500 ml cans), Domaine Chandon Brut Rosé (187 ml bottles), and Sofia (four 187 ml cans). For some wine drinkers, less is more.

Tasting notes:

• Sebastiani Sonoma Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2020: Bright, lively, and refreshing. $14-17 Link to my review

• Klinker Brick Bricks & Roses Rosé, Lodi 2021: Provence-style, but even lighter and airier. $15-19 Link to my review

• Daou Vineyards Bodyguard 2019: Elegant, opulent, sophisticated, intense in color and flavor. $35-40 Link to my review

Last round: The trouble with people who consider themselves “self-made” is they tend to worship their creator. Wine time.

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Chilled red wines 7-6-2022

NEWS FLASH: We are in the “Dog Days of Summer,” or “High Summer” as it was called in the Old South. Whatever you call the scorching time between early July and mid-August, it is time to chill your wines.

That includes chilling red wines. Forget the myth that chilling reds means killing reds. Lighter, less alcoholic, less tannic, less oaky red wines do fine chilled. And, yes, you can even put an ice cube in your glass if you wish.

Some chillable reds:

• Cinsault’s delicate tannins and its strawberry and cherry flavors show well when chilled.

• Gamay, best known for its use in Beaujolais. Chill its lighter-bodied iterations.

• New World pinot noirs with lighter bodies and more fruit-forward approaches work well. Heavier pinot noirs, including lower-end, mass-produced pinots are not as suitable.

• Zweigelt, Austria’s most-planted red, brings cherries and chocolate and soft tannins to the chilled red strategy.

Zweigelt leaf and grapes. Photo by Bauer Karl

You likely have other favored lighter reds. Experiment. If you don’t like the red chilled, leave it alone and in this season of triple-digit days, it will warm up soon enough to be enjoyed in your air-conditioned abode.

General tips:

• Chilled reds should be between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

• Chill the bottle to your refrigerator’s temperature, then take it out an hour before serving.

• Conversely, put the bottle in your refrigerator 30-45 minutes before serving.

• Chill in a bucket of ice and water—ice alone is too slow. Add salt to the water speed things up even more.

If you are not willing to warm to chilled reds, you can always fall back on chilled rosés and light, bright whites. There is no reason to eschew wine just because cows are producing evaporated milk and hot water is coming out of both your taps.

Tasting notes:

• Sokol Blosser Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Oregon 2021: Chill out with this chilled on a hot summer’s day. $17-25 Link to my review

• Domaine de Cala Rosé, Coteaux Varois, Provence 2021: Restrained red fruits flirt with your palate rather than assault it; 60% cinsault. $19-21 Link to my review

• McCay Cellars Rosé of Cinsault, Lodi Appellation 2019: Provence-style rosé from quality Lodi producer. Follows cinsault varietal profile very closely. $35 Link to my review

Last round: It was so hot farmers fed their chickens ice so they wouldn’t lay boiled eggs. Wine time.

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