EPISODE NOTES:

It's not the holiday season without a tacky and over-the-top sweater! This episode will examine how the popular festive garment came to be.

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Resources:

Klepp, Ingun Grimstad. “A Louse in Court: Norwegian Knitted Sweaters with ‘Lus’ On Big-Time Criminals.” Fashion Crimes: Dressing for Deviance. Joanne Turney (ed.). London: Bloomsbury, 2019.

Miller, Brian, Adam Paulson, and Kevin Wool. Ugly Christmas Sweater Book: The Definitive Guide to Getting Your Ugly On. New York: Abrams Image, 2011.

EPISODE NOTES:

Sort of a continuation on the subject of Episode 9, this episode will explore the rise and subsequent fall of paper fashion trends in Europe and North American through the 20th century. 

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Resources:

Milford-Cottam, Daniel. Fashion in the 1960s. London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 2020.

Paget, Francis Edward. The Curate of Cumberworth: And the Vicar of Roost. Charleston, SC: Bibiliobazaar, 2008.

Paton, Kathleen. "Paper dresses". In Steele, Valerie (ed.). Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Farmington Hills, MI. Thomson Gale, 2005. 

Weight, Richard. MOD: From Bebop to Britpop, Britain’s Biggest Youth Movement. New York: Random House, 2013.

Walford, Jonathan. Ready to Tear: Paper Fashions of the 1960s. Cambridge, ON: Kickshaw Productions, 2007.

EPISODE NOTES:  

Though paper is not the first material for clothing we typically think of, it has been used to make garments going back centuries. This episode will explore the that long-lived tradition in Korea and Japan.

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Resources:

All Japan Handmade Washi Association. A Handbook on the Art of Washi: A Collection of Questions and Answers. All Japan Handmade Washi Association: Tokyo: 1991.

Kim, Yongsook. Lim, Hye-Won. "Hanji (Traditional Korean Paper) Fashions," in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Vol. 6, 2010.

Lee, Seung-chul. Hanji: Everything You Need to Know About Traditional Korean Paper. Seoul: Hyeonamsa, 2012.

Leitner, Christina. Paper Textiles. London: A & C Black Publishers, 2005.

Lim, Young-ju and Ki-Ho Sang. Hanji Craft Culture. Seoul: Daewonsa, 2002.

Mohajer va Pesaran, Daphne. 2018. “People and Placelessness: Paper Clothing in Japan.” Fashion Practice 10, no. 2 (June): 236–55.

Narita, Kiyofusa. 1954. A Life of Ts’ai Lung and Japanese Paper-Making. Tokyo: The Paper Museum.

Omura, Tomoko. 1999. “Konnyaku Paste and Kōzo.” The Journal for the Society for Washi Culture 7: 102–07.

Shim, Joon-young and Yongsook Kim. “A Study on the Development of Fashion Accessory Products Made with Korean Traditional Paper Hanji II.” Korean Journal of Human Ecology 15, no. 5 (2006): 803–809.

Yang, Sunny, and Rochelle Narasin. Textile Art of Japan. Shufunotomo:Tokyo, 2000.

EPISODE NOTES: 
Everyone loves a good ghost story, so settle in and snuggle up as today's episode examines the story of a heartbroken bride to be, an iron-willed business man, and a haunted wedding dress!

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Anna Woods Baker letters and diary, 1850-1905, The Penn State University <https://digital.libraries.psu.edu/digital/collection/pccolls/id/7618/>

Peterson, Megan Cooley. Haunted Objects from Around the World. Mankato, MN: Capstone Press, 2017.

Stollznow, Karen. Language Myths, Mysteries, and Magic. London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2014.

EPISODE NOTES:
What better way to kick off spooky season that with a grisly Victorian murder? Tune in for a complicated tale of love, betrayal, murder, and a not-so-little black dress!
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Resources:

Bassett, Lynne Z. Gothic to Goth: Romantic Era Fashion and Its Legacy. Hartford, CT: Connecticut Wadsworth Antheneum Museum of Art, 2016.

EPISODE NOTES:
This episode is a follow up to episode 5 where we got into the nitty gritty of the zoot suit’s origins. This episode is dedicated to the bloody conflict that surrounded the suit nationally and internationally in the 1940s, including the infamous zoot suit riots of Los Angeles.

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Resources:

Alvarez, Luis. The Power of the Zoot: Youth Culture and Resistance During World War II. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 2008.

“Densho Digital Repository.” Densho. 2022. <https://ddr.densho.org/?_ga=2.253375113.1677367262.1663867492-1432067065.1663867492>

Jakes, Kelly. Strains of Dissent: Popular Music and Everyday Resistance in WWII France, 1940-1945. East Lansing, MI: Michigan State University Press, 2019.

Pagán, Eduardo Obregón. Murder at the Sleepy Lagoon. Chapel Hill, NC: University of North Carolina Press, 2003.

Peiss, Kathy. Zoot Suit: The Enigmatic Career of an Extreme Style. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2011.

Ramirez, Catherine S. The Woman in the Zoot Suit: Gender, Nationalism, and the Cultural Politics of Memory. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2009.

Weitz, Mark A. The Sleepy Lagoon Murder Case: Race Discrimination and Mexican-American Rights. Lawrence, KS: University of Kansas Press (2010).

Watch:

American Experience. 2002. Season 14, Episode 6, “Zoot Suit Riots.” Directed by Joseph Tovares. Aired March 1, 2002 on PBS.

EPISODE NOTES:
The first of two episodes dedicated to a controversial and incredibly consequential piece of twentieth century menswear. This episode will delve into the history of the zoot suit and the different groups and individuals who helped bring it about and how it became an icon of social and political resistance. 

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Resources:

Benda, Camille. Dressing the Resistance. New York: Princeton University Press, 2022.
Bogate, Joshua. “Movie stars and anti-Filipino race riots: The secret history of San Francisco’s Macintosh Studios.” SF Gate, April 28, 2021. <https://www.sfgate.com/sfhistory/article/A-luxury-San-Francisco-suitmaker-that-inspired-a-16133069.php>

Burns, Lucy Mae San Pablo. Puro Arte: Filipinos on the Stages of Empire. New York: New York University Press, 2013.

Howard, Sarah Elizabeth. ‘‘Zoot to Boot: The Zoot Suit as Both Costume and Symbol.’’ Studies in Latin American Popular Culture,(2010), 28.

Holly Alfrod, ‘‘The Zoot Suit: Its History and Influence.’’ Fashion Theory 8, No. 2 (2004): 225–36.

Peiss, Kathy. Zoot Suit: The Enigmatic Career of an Extreme Style. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2011.

Ramirez, Catherine S. The Woman in the Zoot Suit: Gender, Nationalism, and the Cultural Politics of Memory. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2009.

Roces, Mina. ““‘These Guys Came Out Looking Like Movie Actors’’: Filipino Dress and Consumer Practices in the United States, 1920s–1930s.” Pacific Historical Review, Vol. 85, No. 4, (2016), 532–576.

Shane White. Stylin’: African American Expressive Culture from Its Beginnings to the Zoot Suit. Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1998.

EPISODE NOTES:
With his large coiffure and bright clothes, the Macaroni was a ubiquitous image in pamphlets, newspapers, and magazine in the 18th century. His unusual appearance and behavior made him a target and an icon.  
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Resources:

Hanley-Smith, Natalie. “Gossip and Sexual Transgression in ‘English Society’ in 1790s’ Naples.” Journal for Eighteenth Century Studies, Volume 44, Issue 1 (March 2021). Pp. 59-75.

McNeil, Peter. “‘That doubtful gender’: Macaroni Dress and Male Sexualities.” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 3, no. 4 (November 1, 1999). Pp. 411-447.

McNeil, Peter. Pretty Gentlemen: Macaroni Men and the Eighteenth-century Fashion World. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2018.

Rauser, Amelia. “Hair, Authenticity, and the Self-Made Macaroni.” Eighteenth-Century Studies,Vol. 38, No. 1, Hair (Fall, 2004), Pp. 101-117.

Rictor Norton, "The Macaroni Club: Homosexual Scandals in 1772", Homosexuality in Eighteenth-Century England: A Sourcebook, 19 December 2004, updated 10 Feb. 2021 .

Jody Greene, ‘Public Secrets: Sodomy and the Pillory in the Eighteenth Century and Beyond’ in The Eighteenth Century, vol. 44 (2003), Pp.203-32.

EPISODE NOTES:

Today we’re going to talk about the Dowager Empress Cixi (1835–1908) of late Qing Dynasty (1644-1991) China. A complicated and controversial historical figure, she ultimately rewrote the court dress code as she brought China into the twentieth century.

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Resources:

Carl, Katharine, With the Empress Dowager of China, The Century Company, New York, New York, 1907.

Derling, Two Years in the Forbidden City. New York: Dodd, Mead and Company, New York, 1911.

Finnane, Antonia. Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, and Nation. New York: Columbia University Press, 2008.

Nii, Rie., Iwagami, Miki., Suoh, Tamami., Fukai, Akiko., Koga, Reiko. Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century : the Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute. Germany: Barnes & Noble, Incorporated, 2014.

Steele, Valerie and John S. Major. China Chic: East Meets West. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1999.

Vollmer, John. Ruling from the Dragon Throne: Costume of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Berkeley: Ten Speed Press, 2002.

Wilson, Ming editor, “Introduction,” Imperial Chinese Robes from the Forbidden City, V&A Publishing, London, England, 2010.

Yao, Felicia. “Of Silk and Statecraft,” Journal of Dress History, Vol. 4, Issue 1 (Spring 2020): 111-135.

EPISODE NOTES:

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Resources:

Gibson, Ian. The Shameful Life of Salvador Dalí. London, Faber and Faber, 1997

McAuliffe, Mary. Paris on the Brink: The 1930s Paris of Jean Renoir, Salvador Dalí, Simone de Beauvoir, André Gide, Sylvia Beach, Léon Blum, and Their Friends. Lanham, MD: Rowman and Littlefield, 2018.

Picardie, Justine. “The Genius of Schiaparelli.” Harpers Bazaar, January 17, 2014.

Rose, Gilbert J. “Sigmund Freud and Salvador Dalí: Cultural and Historical Processes.” American Imago 40, no.4 (Winter 1983): 349-353.

Rubin, Susan Goldman. Hot Pink: The Life and Fashions of Elsa Schiaparelli. New York: Abrams, 2015.

Secrest, Meryle. Elsa Schiaparelli: A Biography. New York: Knopf, 2014.

Veillon, Dominique. Fashion Under Occupation. Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2002.

Yotka, Staff. “Dalí and Schiaparelli Invented the Art-Fashion Collaboration—A New Exhibit Celebrates Their Shocking Works.” Vogue, October 13, 2017. https://www.vogue.com/article/dali-Schiaparelliarlli-in-daring-fashion-exhibit-dali-museum