Ice Ice Beta

Today is about all things training for dry-tooling with Eli Ellis.

Eli is a dry-tooler, coach, and professional slackliner who specializes in highlinemo, a discipline that combines slacklining at high altitudes and mountaineering. For those familiar with the conjunction "skimo", you'll see where "highlinemo" comes from.

To establish ever higher lines, Eli began ice climbing and dry-tooling. Naturally he got hooked. And within two years he was climbing M10. In this episode, we dive into Eli's training that allowed him to progress so quickly, which in part, starts with him climbing, essentially, since childhood. But there's more to it...

Resources and links:

Get a peak into the "First Across" of Hal Latte, Eli's highline at 3,290m in the Colorado Rockies. Here he is sending Rambo II (D10-) in Merano, Italy. And this is a photo of his slackline set up of The Seventh Fang 🐍, his ice-to-rock line extending from The Fang, what he calls his small contribution to the historic Vail Amphitheater.

You can connect with Eli on Instagram @gmeliellis or check out some of his impressive highlines on YouTube. Eli does offer coaching as well, DM him for more details.

Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
 

Credits:

Episode cover photo provided by Eli.

Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).

Patreon:

For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

Credits:

• Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
• This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
• And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu  Gloves and Furnace Industries!

Become a member:

Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.  

(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).

🗣️ Leave us a review!:

You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others. 

Marianne van der Steen is one of the top female ice and mixed climbers, and competition dry-toolers in the world today. She’s climbed WI7, M10 trad, and recently joined the D15 club, the third woman to climb the grade, alongside Angelika Rainer and Haruko Takeuchi.

While she’s won many European Cups in ice climbing and reached the World Cup finals a number of times, but hasn’t yet been able to break through to the podium. Will that change this season?...

Resources and links:

Marianne's recap of climbing A Line Above the Sky (D15) on Scarpa's blog.

You can read more about one of Marianne's idols, Robert Jasper, in this Climbing article, and here is a powerful obit about the late Tom Ballard, who established A Line Above the Sky, and the crag, Tomorrow's World.

You can connect with Marianne on Instagram @verticalmarianne or at her personal website, verticallife.nl.

Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
 

Credits:

Original photo used in cover image by Robert Hendriksen (@thatcrazydutchguy).

Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).

Patreon:

For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

Credits:

• Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
• This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
• And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu  Gloves and Furnace Industries!

Become a member:

Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.  

(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).

🗣️ Leave us a review!:

You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others. 

In this episode with Patrick Cooke, we talk about progressing in ice climbing with longevity in mind, mental tricks and training, and balancing mentorship with figuring things out for yourself.

Patrick is based in the Northeast and has been climbing for nearly 20 years. During that time he has ticked hard classics all over New England, the Canadian Rockies, Québec, Scotland, and Hyalite Canyon. Some of his proud sends include Call of the Wild at Lake Willoughby in Vermont. Omega at Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire, and he was part of the first free ascent team for The Resistance, a 5-pitch M10 on Mount Washington in New Hampshire.

Patrick is especially drawn to thin technical routes, weird mixed lines, and has begun to embrace more sport-styled mixed climbing over the past few years. In his coaching, he focuses especially on head game strategies...

Resources and links:

During the episode, we talk about Patrick teaming up with Jon Nicolodi on two first ascents during the winter of 2022: The Resistance and the upper pitches of Across the Great Divide, both in New Hampshire. You can read more about these climbs in this article on Alpinist online.

You can connect with Patrick on Instagram @pgcooke or at Project Direct Coaching at projectdirectcoaching.com.
 

Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.

Credits:

Episode cover photo provided by Patrick.

Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).

Patreon:

For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

Credits:

• Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
• This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
• And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu  Gloves and Furnace Industries!

Become a member:

Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.  

(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).

🗣️ Leave us a review!:

You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.