For almost the whole of human history, people could not truly get clean with water alone, and nobody knew why. The answer is a molecule with two ends that want opposite things: a head that holds on to water, a tail that buries itself in grease. Tonight, the slow story of how people found that molecule thousands of years before anyone could explain it.
We start with the problem itself, and with surface tension, the reason plain water beads up and rolls off a greasy hand instead of soaking in. Then the trick: how a crowd of soap molecules wraps each speck of oily dirt in a shell the water is glad to carry away.
After that, the history. Ash and fat sitting side by side at every ancient hearth, and a discovery that must have been made over and over by people who never met. A recipe pressed into Babylonian clay before the pyramids were finished, for cleaning cloth rather than skin. The Egyptian medical scroll. The legend of Mount Sapo, told in full and then set aside, because the hill has never been found on any map. The Romans, who scraped themselves with oil and a curved blade and thought soap was something the Gauls put in their hair. Aleppo, olive and laurel, aged in cool cellars for most of a year.
Then a French surgeon named Nicolas Leblanc, who worked out how to make soda ash from common salt, never received his prize money, and set off an industry that made soap cheap and poisoned the air downwind of it until Parliament passed one of the first laws against air pollution anywhere.
A doctor in Vienna who noticed that mothers were dying on one ward and not the other, tried washing with soap, found it was not enough, and reached for chlorine instead.
And finally the twentieth century, when chemists learned to build the same two-ended molecule from petroleum rather than fat, changed one end of it, and quietly took over almost all the washing in your house. Shampoo, body wash, washing-up liquid, and most of the bars sold as soap are not soap at all. The plain bar in the dish may be the last true soap you own.
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The Slow History of Soap - Sources
Organised by section, in episode order.
How soap works: surfactants, micelles, surface tension
- Chemistry LibreTexts, "Application of Solubility: Soap" - https://chem.libretexts.org/Bookshelves/Organic_Chemistry/Map:Organic_Chemistry(Smith)/Chapter_03:_Introduction_to_Organic_Molecules_and_Functional_Groups/3.6:_Application_of_Solubility:_Soap
- Chemistry LibreTexts, "14.2: Soap" - https://chem.libretexts.org/Courses/can/CHEM_232_-Organic_Chemistry_II(Puenzo)/14:Biomolecules-_Lipids/14.02:_Soap
- ScienceABC, "Do Soaps Really Break Down Viruses? If So, How?" - https://www.scienceabc.com/pure-sciences/do-soaps-really-break-down-viruses-if-so-how
Saponification, and the accidental discovery from ash and fat
- Wikipedia, "Soap" - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soap
- Poleview Group, "A Little History Of Soap: Who And When Invented Soap" - https://www.poleviewgroup.com/news/a-little-history-of-soap-who-and-when-invente-78069433.html
Babylon: the clay cylinders, and soap for cloth rather than skin
- American Cleaning Institute, "Soaps & Detergents History" - https://www.cleaninginstitute.org/understanding-products/why-clean/soaps-detergents-history
- The Archaeologist, "The Invention of Soap in Ancient Babylon" - https://www.thearchaeologist.org/blog/the-invention-of-soap-in-ancient-babylon
- Origin Trace, "The History of Soap: From Ancient Grease to Modern Chemistry" - https://origin-trace.com/article/history-of-soap/
Egypt: the Ebers Papyrus
- American Cleaning Institute, "Soaps & Detergents History" - https://www.cleaninginstitute.org/understanding-products/why-clean/soaps-detergents-history
- Chagrin Valley Soap & Salve, "The Origin and History of Soap" - https://www.chagrinvalleysoapandsalve.com/blogs/idas-soap-box-blog/the-origin-and-history-of-soap
Mount Sapo: the legend, and why it is not history
- Wikipedia, "Mount Sapo" - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Sapo
- Stenders Cosmetics, "The history of soap" (on the absence of any Mount Sapo in the Roman world, and sapo as a Germanic borrowing cognate with sebum) - https://www.stenders-cosmetics.com/en/articles/soaps-history/
- Roger Pearse, "Galen on the origins of soap, and the perils of hearsay" - https://www.roger-pearse.com/weblog/2015/01/12/galen-on-the-origins-of-soap-and-the-perils-of-hearsay/
Rome: the strigil, and Pliny on the Gauls
- Wikipedia, "Soap" (the strigil; Pliny describing sapo as an invention of the Gauls, used on the hair) - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soap
- Wikipedia, "Mount Sapo" - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Sapo
Aleppo, and the medieval Mediterranean trade
- Wikipedia, "Aleppo soap" (the cure in subterranean chambers, six months to a year) - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aleppo_soap
- Aleplaur, "The History of Soap - A Laurel Journey From/To Aleppo" (al-Razi's Kitab al-Asrar and early soap recipes) - https://aleplaur.com/en/the-history-of-soap-a-laurel-journey-from-to-aleppo/
Nicolas Leblanc and the making of soda ash from salt
- Science History Institute, "Making the Process" - https://www.sciencehistory.org/stories/magazine/making-the-process/
- Britannica, "Nicolas Leblanc" - https://www.britannica.com/biography/Nicolas-Leblanc
- Wikipedia, "Nicolas Leblanc" - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nicolas_Leblanc
- EPFL Graph Search, "Leblanc process" (the 1783 prize, the Saint-Denis plant, 320 tons a year, the prize money withheld, and the older alkali sources: barilla, kelp, natron) - https://graphsearch.epfl.ch/en/concept/598272
- EBSCO Research Starters, "Leblanc Develops Soda Production" - https://www.ebsco.com/research-starters/history/leblanc-develops-soda-production
The alkali industry, its waste, and the Alkali Act of 1863
- The Chemical Engineer, "Nicolas Leblanc - Revolutionary discoveries" (waste tonnages, the 95 per cent requirement, air pollution traded for water pollution, and the Solvay process superseding Leblanc) - https://www.thechemicalengineer.com/features/cewctw-nicolas-leblanc-revolutionary-discoveries/
- Wikipedia, "Alkali Act 1863" - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkali_Act_1863
- RSC Environmental Chemistry Group, "Galligu: An environmental legacy of the Leblanc alkali industry, 1814-1920" - https://www.envchemgroup.com/galligu-an-environmental-legacy-of-the-leblanc-alkali-industry-1814-1920.html
- Taylor & Francis, "Entrepreneurial Ventures in Chemistry: The Muspratts of Liverpool, 1793-1934" - https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/00026980.2016.1279411
- Biology LibreTexts, case study on the Leblanc works and the 1839 lawsuit - https://bio.libretexts.org/Courses/Coastline_College/ENVS_C100:Environmental_Science(Hoerer)/02:_Environmental_Chemistry/2.04:Key_Elements_of_Green_Chemistry(Lucia)/2.4.01:_Key_Elements_of_Green_Chemistry/2.4.1.03:_Case_Study
Oliver Wendell Holmes, 1843
- Embryo Project Encyclopedia, "The Contagiousness of Puerperal Fever (1843), by Oliver Wendell Holmes" - https://embryo.asu.edu/pages/contagiousness-puerperal-fever-1843-oliver-wendell-holmes
- PBS NewsHour, "In 1850, Ignaz Semmelweis saved lives with three words: wash your hands" - https://www.pbs.org/newshour/health/ignaz-semmelweis-doctor-prescribed-hand-washing
- American Journal of Public Health, "Oliver Wendell Holmes (1809-1894) and Ignaz Philipp Semmelweis (1818-1865): Preventing the Transmission of Puerperal Fever" - https://ajph.aphapublications.org/doi/full/10.2105/AJPH.2009.185363
Semmelweis, Vienna, and why soap was not enough
- Science History Institute, "Ignaz Semmelweis" (he tried soap, water and a nail brush first, then chlorinated water, then chlorinated lime) - https://www.sciencehistory.org/education/scientific-biographies/ignaz-semmelweis/
- WHO Guidelines on Hand Hygiene in Health Care, "Historical perspective on hand hygiene in health care" - https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK144018/
- Wikipedia, "Contemporary reaction to Ignaz Semmelweis" (his own account that washing with soap alone did not remove the smell) - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contemporary_reaction_to_Ignaz_Semmelweis
- National Geographic, "'Wash your hands' was once controversial medical advice" - https://www.nationalgeographic.com/history/article/handwashing-once-controversial-medical-advice
- EBSCO Research Starters, "Semmelweis Develops Antiseptic Procedures" - https://www.ebsco.com/research-starters/history/semmelweis-develops-antiseptic-procedures
Note on the mortality figures: sources give the gap between the two Vienna clinics variously as sixteen per cent against two, sixteen against seven, and ten against four. Because they disagree, the narration says only that the doctors' clinic ran several times higher, and states that the exact figures are contested.
Synthetic detergents: the First World War, Nekal, Dreft, Tide
- Britannica, "Soap and detergent - Early synthetic detergents" (the German wartime shortage, the Nekal alkylnaphthalene sulfonates, good wetting agents but only fair detergents) - https://www.britannica.com/science/soap/Early-synthetic-detergents
- EurekAlert / American Chemical Society, "Development of Tide laundry detergent receives historical recognition" (Dreft in 1933, Tide in 1946) - https://www.eurekalert.org/news-releases/825748
- Wikipedia, "Dreft" - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dreft
- Springer, "Synthetic Detergents" - https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-1-349-00015-9_48
Why detergents work in hard water: carboxylate versus sulfonate
- No Brain Too Small, NCEA Level 3 chemistry notes on soaps and detergents (calcium and magnesium salts of sulfonates are soluble; detergents also work in acid conditions where soap does not) - http://www.nobraintoosmall.co.nz/students/science/NCEA_Level3/L3_Organic/pdfs/AS90730_soapsnotes.pdf
- Biard & Crockett, "Why Hard Water Doesn't Get Along with Soap" - https://www.biardandcrockett.com/blog/why-hard-water-doesnt-get-along-with-soap/
- Chemistry LibreTexts, "14.2: Soap" - https://chem.libretexts.org/Courses/can/CHEM_232_-Organic_Chemistry_II(Puenzo)/14:Biomolecules-_Lipids/14.02:_Soap
The foam on the rivers, and the switch to straight-chain tails
- Maine Department of Environmental Protection, "Foam, Lakes" (foam in rivers, sewage works and taps; branched ABS replaced by linear LAS) - https://www.maine.gov/dep/water/lakes/foam.html
- Council for LAB/LAS Environmental Research, "Environmental and other benefits of replacing ABS with LAS" - https://www.cler.com/environmental-and-other-benefits-of-replacing-abs-with-las/
- EBSCO Research Starters, "Soaps And Detergents" (propylene-derived branched chains; sewage enzymes unable to break them down) - https://www.ebsco.com/research-starters/science/soaps-and-detergents
Note on the 1965 date: the completion of the United States changeover from branched to linear chains on 1 July 1965 is taken from a single encyclopaedic source and should be treated as the weaker figure in this section.
The Dove bar of 1957, and what is no longer soap
- Wikipedia, "Dove (Unilever brand)" (launched in the United States in 1957; formulated from synthetic detergents to avoid leaving a bathtub ring) - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dove_(Unilever_brand)
- Sharecare, "What are synthetic detergents?" (syndet bars and soap-free cleansers) - https://www.sharecare.com/health/skin-cleansing-soaps/what-are-synthetic-detergents
- Botanie Soap, "What Is Syndet Soap? Syndet Bars vs. Traditional Soap" - https://botaniesoap.com/blogs/misc/syndet-soap
- ScienceABC, "What's The Difference Between Various Types Of Soaps, Shampoo And Detergents?" (shampoo as a detergent rather than a true soap) - https://www.scienceabc.com/eyeopeners/whats-the-difference-between-various-types-of-soaps-shampoo-and-detergents
The greasy coats of germs
- Global Handwashing Partnership, "How Washing Hands with Soap Destroys the Coronavirus" - https://globalhandwashing.org/how-washing-hands-with-soap-destroys-the-coronavirus/
- Virology Down Under, "Why does soap work so well on SARS-CoV-2?" - https://virologydownunder.com/why-does-soap-work-so-well-on-sars-cov-2/
- Mittal, Ni & Seo, "The Flow Physics of COVID-19" (soap dismantling the lipid envelope, with the debris trapped in micelles) - https://arxiv.org/pdf/2004.09354