As a knitter in a new place, Irene Waggener looks for knitting as she explores. Not all of the countries where she finds herself have robust yarn-shop networks and textile tourism, so sometimes she needs to get creative in her search.

During a three-year stint in Morocco, her first glimpse of knitting was in the back of a local museum, where a striking pair of black-and-white knitted pants hung among other traditional craft objects. Although the staff at the museum couldn’t tell her much about them, she was encouraged to look for knitters in the neighboring valley, where she found not only some of the last knitters who knew how to make the knitted pants but also an existing handknit sock practice. In the village of Timloukine, men take their knitting along for months away from home as they tend their sheep. In the cold winters of the High Atlas, the synthetic mass-produced socks that have reached the village are no match for the traditional handmade wool socks.

Irene learned to knit the unusual wool pants, called sirwal, and a variety of other traditional knitted items from the region. She wrote her first book about the knitting practices of the High Atlas, combining cultural anthropology, historical research, and kandknitting patterns in Keepers of the Sheep: Knitting in Morocco’s High Atlas and Beyond.

In her next destination, Armenia, Irene found a knitting culture that more closely resembles what North American and European knitters would recognize: contemporary knitters who pick up their needles for enjoyment and self-expression, with a variety of mostly synthetic yarns available in craft stores. Getting out into rural areas, though, she met an older generation of knitters who still use old-style, unusual colorwork techniques, many of them related to the region’s rug weaving. Drawing on a breed association for the gampr, a treasured Armenian livestock guardian dog, and plenty of serendipity, Irene found knitters willing to share their sock-knitting traditions.

As an independent researcher, Irene Waggener has followed her knitting to extraordinary places, and she invites us to follow and knit along.

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