In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what might be the most popular study in all of climbing:

The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers

authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology in 2012. 

They’ll try to determine whether this study provides evidence for one hangboard protocol to rule them all, or if folks have just been misinterpreting the data. Tune in to see who wins in the finger strength battle between Minimum Edge Depth and Maximum Added Weight!

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Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.

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Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.