IT MADE CLICK!

Sorry that this episode turned out a bit visual. If possible, please watch it on Youtube at http://youtu.be/pRLPpwt5QbY.

Today's question is about the in-camera histogram (which I use all the time) and also about working with different color spaces..

I use

- RAW (propriatary color space) for all adjustments in LightRoom

- 16 bit ProPhotoRGB for all edits in PhotoShop

- SRGB whenever exporting the results for web or simple printers

I know some gurus will not like it but I never do anything in Adobe RGB. I don't see any sense using it.

Histogram: The in-camera histogram is based on a JPG preview and might indicate a slightly lower dynamic range than what the RAW file actually provides me. This means, if I nailed the exposure according to the in-camera histogram, then the RAW file will be excellent.

The thing that I mention in the video when talking about the striped pattern that I flashed accross the scene is the

Lightblaster: http://goo.gl/IYfulZ

The patterns were part of Good Light! Magazine Issue 7: http://goo.gl/1LGN2n

Model: Victoria Sweet

NEW!!! Watch this on Youtube: http://youtu.be/9dTSNaqNPVI

Turns out you can make awesome portrait light by just handholding a speedlight with a FlashBenders Softbox somewhere above your subject. This video is a quick little selfie-video answer to the twitter question of Brad Chapman.

Here's the stuff I'd use for club photos:

Rogue FlashBenders Softbox: http://goo.gl/1Tdf29

Mitros+: http://goo.gl/kizIYn

I forgot one little detail in the video: when shooting "in da club" in TTL then use the spot-metering mode of your camera, so that it only cares about the light on your subject and not about all the funky lights that might go on around your subject.

If you like any photo tip from me please tweet and add the hashtag #ItMadeClick, so that I see the tweet and have a chance to pick up your question in this program.

Sometimes you like your background to be black, as in pitch black. If your photo studio is rather small or you are shooting in a little home studio (like yours truly) then spill light from your flash might ruin your black background. Today I am giving you my best 3 tips on how to control your light in this situations and why I actually do not control it at all in most of my shoots.

I wish you good light!

Michael

The Taobao Shop that I buy my backdrops from: http://goo.gl/82R8dD

I'm now into photography for about 6 years. My go-to lens is still the first lens that I ever bought. A superzoom. I use it for round about 65% of my photos. At the same time, my most important lens is actually not my zoom but my prime. It's used for 35% of my photos, but if I could have only one lens, then I would ditch my zoom and go for the prime. Don't get me wrong, I am not one of the people saying that you can zoom with your feet. That's just an empty catch phrase and it has nothing to do with reality basic optics. Nevertheless the open aperture that my prime gives me is one of the most important style elements in my personal photography.

My go to lens:

Canon EF 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6L IS: http://goo.gl/sXgzoq

My most important lens:

Canon EF 50mm f/1.2 L: http://goo.gl/ZZiMva

My favorite prime for my Fuji:

XF 35mm f/1.4: http://goo.gl/OmFOuv

Many photographers want warm, soft light - be it for baby photos, portraits, boudoir, you name it! Many of us are on a budget because we make photos just for fun. That's I am glad that I can answer today's question about lighting in a way that does not require a studio strobe and a giant octabox.

The baby setup I refer to in the audio: http://www.zelbel.com/baby-boom

Like this podcast? Please leave your quick review: http://goo.gl/nscTdY

I hear it quite often these days: DSLRs are dead. Mirrorless cameras are enough for everything. I personally can say that I love my 5D MK III as well my mirrorless Fuji X-E2. The latter one will not replace my DSLR. Let me share my top 3 examples of things I am missing on my Fuji, so that I still use my 5D for the respective photos.

My DSLR: http://goo.gl/uxNOVv

My mirrorless: http://goo.gl/FJWeVb

When it comes to awesome photo light, many roads lead to Rome. You can meter your light with a handheld incident meter or you can simply read the correct setting from your histogram. In this podcast episode I explain how I do the latter one all the time.

Through the Lens metering is an awesome functionality. Canon's E-TTL and Nikons i-TTL are sophisticated and help you out tremendously when you have to shoot fast, for example when you cover a wedding with your camera. However, when you make photographs of models you usuallly have a minute or two to setup the power of your flash and the exposure values of your camera manually. Does this pay off? I think it does in many cases.

HSS and Auto FP are awesome for using your speedlight to bring life into scenes outdoors on a bright day. However, many photographers are a bit afraid that their flash will be not strong enough. Many think that highspeed sync might eat up their batteries too fast. In today’s episode I try to give tips on all of that.

Here’s the stuff that I use

Eneloop Batteries: http://goo.gl/mR7C0Y

Tenergy / Knox 16 bay charger: http://goo.gl/pur8PY

Technically backlighting does not make your photos more flat. But practically this effect will often be the outcome when shooting photos against a strong light source like your flash and like the sun.

You can either accept this as a cool style, or you can make up for it by creating a scene that allows for the introduction of side lighting or by stacking adding a clear foreground and background to your photo.

The awesome examples that I refer to in the podcast are from Good Light! Magazine Issue 09: http://www.goodlightmag.com/issue-09