| How to have fun in Jerusalem |

Sha’anan Streett might be Israel’s biggest hip-hop star and he also might own the most important bar in Jerusalem. In a tiny courtyard in the Mahane Yehuda market sits the Casino Du Paris, a little oasis in the bustle of one of the world's craziest markets. What you might not realise, sitting there with a cold one, is that this bar started a movement. In an era filled with conflict, this little bar helped the nightlife of the market explode into a bustling and remarkable place, helping turn around an entire neighborhood.

The first three days of our Neil and Andrés’ trip to Jerusalem were an upside down carnival ride; Little sleep, lots of delicious food, trippy live music, colorful art shows, a taste-test of the best kebabs in the world, so many laughs and friendly faces. We quickly realised, like everything in Jerusalem, the story of Sha’anan’s bar was much, much bigger than we thought. The ritual and practice of having fun in a historically dangerous place is complicated, but Sha’anan has a plan - and importantly, a map. Which we followed to discover a whole new side of the city - through the people who are pushing Jerusalem in new and wonderful directions.

For more, including links to the things we talked about, the places we visited, plus a full transcript, visit: https://www.frequencymachine.com/passport.

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