In this episode I go over how my first session went, but first I talk about my shoulder issues, back issues, and how 2022 is looking like a “realization year” that my body can’t handle much physical activity any more.
So sessions 102 & 103 were at Bolsa Chica, before the trip. My wife and I were in Oahu from 19-25 Nov. We surfed White Plains, Makaha, Chun’s twice, and Diamond Head. My nipples are raw. Enjoy the show and thank you for listening!
Death to the dawn patroller…birth of the mid-day marauder. Local session with my boy Dais!
17 min
About Lone Wolf Surfer
From the publisher's feed
Straight outta South Bay SoCal, I’m an avid surfer in my early forties who still has the “grom stoke.” Despite being an intermediate surfer at best, I’m a stickler for proper etiquette, and in the…
thickest of crowds, I do my best to find that gap in the lineup to catch a few all to myself. Tune in to hear talks about surf philosophy, struggles in aggro/semi-pro breaks, the successes of scoring unmolested waves, travel, and genuine stoke/psyche.