Look Behind The Look

Heathers is an undeniable classic. We take a look at the creative elements that came together to bring us the first and arguably the best Mean Girls, and the first appearance of the ultimate bad boy that you have to fight everything to resist. Before toxic relationships became an overused phrase, we had Veronica and JD. Unfortunately, the plot of Heathers has become all too real, but the film is still a favorite of Gen X, and here, we try to explain why to the following generations who deem it to be straight up offensive.

HEATHERS (1988)

Director: Michael Lehmann

Writer: Daniel Waters

Starring: Winona Ryder, Christian Slater, Shannen Doherty, Lisanne Falk, Kim Walker

Production Designer: Jon Hutman

Costume Designer: Rudy Dillon Hair and

Makeup: Julie Hewett Heathers

Finds on Etsy https://bit.ly/4gFSaWv

Watch Heathers https://amzn.to/42RfAoM

Mike Marino talks with me about working with director Aaron Schimberg, and actors Sebastian Stan and Adam Pearson to create one of the year’s most memorable creations in film.

In this episode, we discuss more than just his process and techniques. We actually dove into philosophical implications of body image, the marketing of body horror, the genius of David Lynch, and a lot more. Mike offers a fascinating glimpse into the world of prosthetics and its impact on storytelling. Tune in for a conversation that not only highlights the technical aspects of his craft but also the emotional depth that drives his work.

WATCH A Different Man

In this episode of Look Behind The Look, we dive into the hauntingly beautiful world of Nosferatu with the Oscar-nominated hair and makeup team: Traci Loader, David White, and Suzanne Stokes Munton. Under the masterful direction of Robert Eggers, this film artfully blends gothic romance with chilling horror, captivating audiences with its mesmerizing visuals and intricate character designs. Join us as we explore the creative process behind the film’s stunning aesthetics, from the realistic prosthetics to the romantic yet terrifying blood effects.

The team shares their experiences in crafting the iconic looks, including the enigmatic mustache that sparked curiosity and the chilling eye effects that have left viewers spellbound. We discuss the challenges faced during production, such as maintaining realism in the film's black-and-white aesthetic and the meticulous planning that went into each character’s transformation. Tracy, David, and Suzanne reveal the secrets behind Willem Dafoe's dusty, unkempt look and Nicholas Hoult's gradual deterioration throughout the film, showcasing their dedication to authenticity.

Get ready for an in-depth look at the artistry involved in creating a film that transcends traditional horror, merging beauty and terror into a compelling narrative. If you haven't seen Nosferatu yet, prepare to be enchanted and frightened in equal measure.

00:00:00 Welcome to Look Behind The Look

00:03:15 Meet the Oscar-nominated hair and makeup team

00:08:30 Crafting Willem Dafoe’s unique character

00:09:30 Nicholas Hoult's transformation journey

00:20:25 Crafting Willem Dafoe’s unique character 00:25:10 Nicholas Hoult's transformation journey

00:10:35 The mesmerizing eye effects of Lily Rose Depp

00:12:34 The biggest challenge on set

00:14:25 Oh, RATS!

00:15:40 That final scene...

00:16:45 How were Lily's convulsions and eye rolls achieved and testing Lily's wigs.

As Gen Z slowly but surely unearths gems in film history, one of our beloved Gen X films, Less Than Zero, always seems to escape their discovery. This is because the film is not available anywhere- when it is streaming for a few months on MAX, my various text threads light up, but alas, it leaves as quickly as it comes.

One of my top 10 gifts ever received was the Vinyl LP for my Birthday 5 years ago and they can pry my burned DVD of the film from my cold dead hands. It's one of my all-time favorites and I am not alone.

Everyone knows that this is Robert Downy Jr.'s best performance, that fans of the Brett Easton Ellis novel hated it, that Jami Gertz' performance was widely criticized (not by me- I love it) and that Brad Pitt is famously in the movie as a random party guest, but let's look deeper into the design, the cinematography and the soundtrack. In this episode, we begin looking at the creative elements of this film that no one will discuss with me. No one. So here I am, crowd-sourcing for as much info as possible to put into one place. Kelli and I scoured what is out there and are parsing it into 2 episodes. If you are out there and worked on this film, please know I have reached out to find you and have heard back that you will not talk about the film or I haven't heard back at all and would absolutely love to.

This Gorgeous Film was assembled by:

Director: Marek Kanievska

Starring: Robert Downey, Jr., Andrew McCarthy, Jami Gertz, James Spader

DP: Edward Lachman

Production Designer: Barbara Ling

Costume Designer: Richard Hornung

HMU: Deborah Figuly, Adam Christopher, Barbara O'Neill, Angelo Di Biase

00:00:00 1987's Less Than Zero

00:03:20 Depicting Addiction in Film and Robert Downey Jr.'s unforgettable performance.

00:05:48 Robert Downey Jr. interview clip

00:09:16 Impresario Rick Rubin and his first soundtrack- Less Than Zero

00:11:37 Class Consciousness in Production Design

For more insights and interviews, check the show notes and stay tuned for a follow-up episode as we continue to uncover the mysteries of Less Than Zero.

LINKS:

Less Than Zero on DVD

Less Than Zero on Vinyl

Less Than Zero Book

Some IG gems

Looking back on the gorgeous ’80s excess in Less Than Zero - Interview Magazine Bret Easton Ellis - Interview Magazine

Brat by Andrew McCarthy Excerpts on Less Than Zero

Brat by Andrew McCarthy

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INSTAGRAM

In this episode of Look Behind The Look, I delve into the vibrant world of the film Emilia Pérez with the head of the makeup department, Julia Floch-Carbonel. The film stars Selena Gomez and Zoe Saldaña as you have never seen them, and everyone is talking about Karla Sofía Gascón this awards season. We explore the intricate artistry behind the film's makeup design, discussing the creative processes that brought the characters to life. We also touch on the film's controversial aspects, inviting listeners to engage in the broader conversation surrounding its reception.

Julia shares her journey of working with renowned director Jacques and how the collaboration evolved from their previous project. She provides insights into the unique challenges and rewarding experiences of crafting the film's visual narrative, including the symbolic transition of the main character and the collaborative efforts with costume designers like Virginie Montel…

Speaking of costumes, just imagine the costume department’s surprise when Saint Laurent came on to the project 3 weeks before shooting had a few new ideas (!)

The episode highlights the meticulous preparation and creative freedom that allowed the team to push boundaries and create an authentic yet stylized portrayal of the characters. From the influence of opera and musical elements to the innovative choreography, Julia offers a behind-the-scenes look at the dedication and passion that fueled the film's success.

00:00:00 Welcome!

00:05:07 So tell me how it came into your life to work with Jacques

00:10:28 Everything centers around the mouth because it says something about the character

00:14:19 The transformation of Rita (Zoe Saldaña)

00:17:17 Saint Laurent came, um, along three weeks before we shoot

00:19:03 Film references that inspired Emilia Pérez

00:22:20 What was the hardest film to shoot?

Get full access to Look Behind The Look's Substack from Tiffany Bartok at lookbehindthelook.substack.com/subscribe

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MARIA premieres on Netflix December 11 and is in theaters now.

In this episode of Look Behind The Look, I sit with hair designer Aduitha Lee, known for her iconic work on films like Dallas Buyers Club (for which she won the Oscar) and I, Tonya. Aduitha shares her insights and experiences from her latest project, transforming Angelina Jolie into the legendary opera singer Maria Callas in the film Maria. This episode delves into the creative process behind the hair design, the challenges of capturing the essence of Maria Callas while maintaining Angelina's unique presence, and the intricate details that bring the character to life on screen.

Aduitha discusses the extensive preparation involved, including the use of 12 wigs and various hairpieces to portray Maria Callas' iconic looks throughout the film. She also shares the fascinating story of how she came to be involved in the project, the collaborative process with Angelina Jolie, and the innovative techniques used to achieve the film's stunning visual authenticity. From the opera scenes to the intimate moments in Maria's Paris apartment, Aduitha provides a behind-the-scenes look at the artistry and dedication required to create a seamless and captivating transformation.

Adruitha is offering a glimpse into the meticulous planning and creative vision that goes into crafting a character's look. Be sure to tell me what you thought of the film and follow Adruitha on IG for more!

00:00:00 Welcome

00:13:01 Wig talk- how many wigs were there and how were they prepared?

00:15:46 Dru gives insight to preparing for the Oscar race

00:18:02 Creating the efforless look of Maria while she is at home in her last weeks of her life.

00:20:10 What was your favorite look that you worked on with Angelina

00:23:03 Dru discusses creating the look of Maria, while being true to Angelina's natural face.

00:25:59 The other creative elements of the film.

00:27:43 Follow Adruitha on Instagram!

https://www.instagram.com/adruithalee/

Get full access to Look Behind The Look's Substack at lookbehindthelook.substack.com/subscribe

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This week we are sitting with Brian Badie, the hair department for the highly acclaimed series, The Penguin. Brian shares his unexpected journey from New Orleans to New York City, detailing how his career in hair design began on the sets of iconic shows like Law and Order: SVU and evolved into crafting the unforgettable looks in The Penguin and the full story behind the creation of Sophia played by Cristin Milioti. Brian details Mike Marino’s creation of the Penguin’s look and the intricate process behind Colin Farrell's jaw-dropping transformation into the Penguin. Brian's expertise in wigs and character development played a pivotal role in the series' visual storytelling and the development of the unforgettable character Sophia.

Brian also opens up about his experience working on Queen & Slim, where he collaborated with creative visionaries to deliver layered storytelling through hair design. From navigating the challenges of local hires to the nuances of freelancing in the film industry, Brian provides invaluable insights and advice for aspiring artists.

This episode is a must-listen for freelancers who look to work well with Networks in the industry, and how to pick your battles.

Don't miss this engaging conversation that offers a behind-the-scenes look at the artistry and dedication required to bring iconic characters to life on screen.

00:00:00 Remember! We moved to Substack!

00:01:55 Meet Brian Badi: the hair department head for the Penguin

00:05:36 Brian’s journey from Louisianna

00:12:44 Law and Order SVU and the story behind how Brian got the job…

00:21:02 Working on Power

00:23:23 Mike Marino’s creation of the Penguin’s look

00:26:47 Brian and Cristin’s method of crafting the iconic hair for Sophia

00:34:57 Queen and Slim with Lena Waithe and M. Molina

00:38:39 Advice for how the Department Head should communicate with the network and production company.

Get full access to Look Behind The Look's Substack from Tiffany Bartok at lookbehindthelook.substack.com/subscribe

PSA: Pros - Are you getting your discounts? Check out this post and I will help you to make sure you are getting the most out of being a PRO.

In this episode, we delve into the remarkable world of Diane Warren, the legendary songwriter, through the lens of the new documentary Diane Warren, Relentless by director Bess Kargman. Bess is interviewed by my better half and the producer of this show, Jayce Bartok. He and Bess explore the complexities and triumphs of Warren's career, revealing the woman behind the music and the myths surrounding her. They discuss how Warren's reputation for being "difficult" is both challenged and explained in this intimate portrait.

Director Bess Kargman shares her journey in earning Warren's trust and the creative choices behind the documentary. Learn about the challenges faced during filming, including navigating the COVID-19 pandemic and the unique demands of capturing Warren's relentless spirit. Kargman also discusses the significance of Warren's personal experiences, including her Asperger's and past traumas, and how these elements are woven into her songwriting and the film itself.

Kargman recounts her experience interviewing Cher, highlighting the superstar's humor, humility, and unexpected normalcy. The episode also touches on the film's upcoming screenings at DOC NYC and its theatrical release, followed by its availability on Masterclass, marking a new venture for the educational platform into documentary filmmaking.

Don't miss this engaging episode that offers a behind-the-scenes look at the making of Diane Warren, Relentless and celebrates the indomitable spirit of one of music's most prolific songwriters.

00:00:00 Welcome!

00:01:25 Introducing Director Bess Kargman

00:11:36 What was it like interviewing Cher?

00:15:37 What was the hardest thing about making this film?

00:20:16 What is the distribution plans for Relentless?

Get full access to Look Behind The Look's Substack from Tiffany Bartok at lookbehindthelook.substack.com/subscribe

My favorite assistant: HEADLINER

Welcome back to Look Behind The Look! This episode takes us into the world of Kenneth Cole through his documentary, A Man with Soul, premiering at DOC NYC. Join guest host, producer Lauren Rieckhoff as she delves into Kenneth's impactful journey in fashion and social advocacy. Discover how Cole's passion for eradicating stigma and his fearless approach to social issues have shaped his brand and legacy.

Through candid conversations with Kenneth and director Dori Berinstein, we explore the evolution of Cole's work from the early days of the AIDS epidemic to his current focus on mental health. Kenneth shares insights into his resourcefulness and the pivotal role New York City played in his career. Learn about the bold campaigns that challenged norms and the ethos that has driven Kenneth's success.

This episode celebrates the intersection of fashion and social consciousness and the film that is explaining the importance of messaging in fashion.

Catch the documentary at DOC NYC on November 18th and 21st, and stay tuned for its wider release.

00:00:00 Welcome!

00:01:54 Cole’s “business” is about “how do we impact people's lives?”

00:03:28 The impact of amfAR on the fashion world and the world.

00:06:45 Dori Berinstein talks about how Cole’s determination have led to success

00:08:10 Cole’s fearless approach to tackling social issues 30 years ago and now.

00:13:59 Enjoy the film now screening at DOC NYC November 18th and 21st.

Get full access to Look Behind The Look's Substack from Tiffany Bartok at lookbehindthelook.substack.com/subscribe

My favorite assistant: Headliner

Quotes from Kenneth Cole

"It's not just about how many shoes or suits or bottles of fragrance can we sell and to whom. It's how do we impact people's lives?"

"I figured early on in my career that if I could talk to people about not just what's on their body, what's on their mind, not just what they stand in what they stand for, then I'd have such a more meaningful and sustainable relationship with the customer."

"These are not political issues. These are social issues. These are human issues."

"I think New York is this culture hub and it's. There's anything that. Anything you could ever dream about, you know, exists somewhere here in New York."

"Social media has redefined bravery."

In this episode of Look Behind The Look, we're diving into DOC NYC, the prestigious documentary film festival in New York City. Join me I discuss the much-anticipated documentary Beyond the Gaze, which spotlights the life and legacy of Jule Campbell, the trailblazing force behind the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue. This film, directed by Jill Campbell, Julie's daughter-in-law, is a powerful exploration of memory, empowerment, the beauty of living life with no regrets… and teaching others to do the same.

Jill and I discuss the dangers of pigeonholing films, labeling them simply as “fashion films” for example, and how films that may seem to be about something simple and frivolous on the surface, can prove to be about SO much more.

Learn about how you can see this important film here: www.julecampbell.com

DOC NYC Screening Information

And Follow filmmaker Jill Campbell for more about the film here on her Substack

Jill's IG

00:00:00 Welcome!00:03:25 Beyond the Gaze will premiere at DOC NYC on November 17th. How did this project come about.00:10:11 Earning the trust of your subject and how she felt about this documentary being made.00:17:03 The film's structure building.00:26:35 Facing the pigeonholing of films and filmmakers, and the labeling of your documentary as a "fashion film".00:28:20 Substack and the advantages for filmmakers to offer more.00:30:51 The world premiere of Julie's film and its reception.00:36:02 The a crisis right now in independent documentary and for independent films00:42:46 Look behind the Look premieres November 17th at DOC NYC