Material Is Your Business

3D Printing and Design Innovation for Clothing and Wearables with Sylvia Heisel…

Sylvia Heisel, Fashion Designer, 3D Printing and Design Innovation for Clothing and Wearables (bio), and Creative Director of Heisel, joins Samanta Cortes and Stephanie Benedetto at MouthMedia Network’s studio at VoyagerHQ.

Applying 3D printing to fashion, sustainability and compostable possibilities, sugar-based polyester, and 3D printed jewelry

Heisel reviews how she got her start, but was doing same thing over and over, stopped being creative, and concerned about sustainability issues. How she got into 3D printing and applied it to fashion, how 3D printing wasn’t really a new technology, the first thing she made was customized iPhone cases, and how innovations allowing fast growth are close to mass production of 3D printed clothing. Cool new compostable fabrics, made of sugar and other materials, making the fast fashion trend not harming the planet. How the speed of 3D printing is improving. The first mass market example is the Adidas 3D printed shoe with carbon, economically feasible but not ecologically ideal. 3D printing has been for the development stage. So much material and technical expertise is required for practical application of 3D printing of fashion that were never considerations before. 3D printing offers an opportunity to get jewelry molding right, and the opportunity to re-purpose/recycle discarded materials into 3D printing filament.

The famous coat, the need for education in 3D printing, and starting with materials and process

The 3D printed famous coat and the process ideation to production, printing in pieces instead of cutting, them, and joining together, with truly zero waste, not even seam allowances. Intriguing new processes, and a machine that Heisel’s team  built by hacking another CNC machine and turning it into a 3D printer. The need for education, how industrial design and arhcitecture students, but not fashion students, are taught in general about 3D printing. Not everyone will be designers, and many will go into manufacturing, so teaching 3D is important. Good design comes from good manufacturing, but fashion starts with design.

Flying, shape-shifting, and making stuff

Remnants, create a fabric for flying and shape-shifting, how the future holds new stuff, and why we just have to make stuff.

 

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Performance-based natural, cotton fibers via material science and process technology with Dropel…

Sim Gulati, CoFounder and CEO of Dropel Fabrics, which makes clothing life-proof by developing performance-based natural, cotton fibers through material science and process technology – (bio), joins Samanta Cortes and Stephanie Benedetto at MouthMedia Network’s studio at VoyagerHQ.

Bridging science and fashion, functionalizing clothing, and retail applications

Gulati shares the genesis of Dropel, and how Gulati’s background and family’s work was a crucial ingredient, seeing innovation in fabrics but little in natural fabrics. How the goal is to bridge material science and fashion such as stain and oil repellency, wrinkle free, antimicrobial, and use these properties previously reserved for synthetics and apply them to natural fabrics. How in 10 years all clothing can be functionalized even at a nano-fiber level, and the road to that is via advanced fiber modification. Taking scientists with experience with application of fibers along with people who are supply chain experts, and taking materials science breakthroughs and applying them into the retail environment. Specific retail applications and campaigns, socializing the idea of innovative textiles in the market, and positioning Dropel as a materials science innovation arm for retailers — such as a hydrophobic cotton that both resists on the outside and picks up moisture on the inside.

Licensing and royalties, a sustainability mission, and bringing innovation to the US

Every Dropel fabric has unique chemistry and process, which impacts licensing and royalties, etc. The evolution of the ethos and branding of Dropel, and further developing out the sustainability mission. Fashion for Good, and PFC-free “recipes”. A change of name, looking ahead at development in the US for R and D and production, how Dropel looking at advancing fiber and nanotechnologies and a lab in Brooklyn in development, what it will take for manufacturing to come back to the US, the opportunities to further develop innovation in materials to expand garment and fashion industry, the performance of Dropel fabrics, allowing customers to think about fabrics in ways they never have before, and how that has driven business strategy.

Imaging fabrics, hypnotizing machines, and the future is close

Personal Questions in “Remnants” covers duplicating Gulati, the dream of fabric that grows and shrinks, how the future is closer than we think, and embroidery machine hypnotism.

Dropel on Fashion Is Your Business Episode 34

Mister French

Cradle to Cradle

 

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Man-made cellulose fibers with Lenzing Fibers…

Tricia Carey, Director of Global Business Development for Lenzing Fibers, a company manufacturing and marketing man-made cellulose fibers (bio), joins Stephanie Benedetto, Samanta Cortes and guest host Marc Raco on location at TexWorld USA 2017.

TexWorld, measuring softness, and blending

Carey discusses Lenzing’s man-made cellulosic fiber, all from wood pulp from trees, which are ingredients of manufacturers and retailers around the world. She shares how being at shows like TexWorld allows convening, getting together with industries, yarn spinners and fabric mills, exchanging info, and how nothing takes the place of face to face meetings. The Lenzing Innovation Center, highlighting a new fabric concept TENCEL blended with wool for premium fabrics for high-end fashion. A focus on softness, with a measurement of softness demonstration between two fabrics, how everyone is looking to call out the value a garment has and being able to quantify claims, how there is great compatibility to blend with other fibers, blending as a huge trend, creating a unique mix that adds performance, strength or softness to garment.

Range of product use, closed loop, and Made in USA

End products, how Lenzing makes 1 million tons of fiber, is a $2 billion company, making baby wipes, facial masks, top of bed sheets, towels, socks, denim, active wear, and industrial applications. The importance and advantages of a closed loop circular system, using wood pulp from trees, adding a solvent, extruding via spinnerets, creating Tencel, and how many brands require it. A closed loop can reuse the solvent at 99.4-99.6 %, sustainability, economic benefit, a win-win story, environmentally responsible, how Lenzing has always manufactured with environment in mind, the importance of Made in USA, the manufacturing facility in Mobile, AL. How planning a $295 Million expansion there is a sign from an Austrian company to commitment to manufacture in the US.

History, international innovation, and a travel story that keeps giving

The history of Lenzing, how Tricia came to be in her position, where she started, graduating FIT, a domestic heat transfer company, then fabric buying at a women’s sports apparel company, and extensive travel. International implications in innovation, including knit applications out of Korea, and with denim a lot happening out of Turkey and Pakistan are both innovative. Garment production in Central America, and more on Made in America keeping up with innovation within the US. Accessibility for designers, Carved in Blue for explaining what can be done with denim, and a fabric certification program to be eligible for hangtags. How Lenzing doesn’t just make fiber, do a lot more. Favorite cities, Barcelona, Munich, NYC, Shanghai. Weird travel experiences, crawling out the window, and Fitbit as a must-have.

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Modern uses for embroidery Machines with ZSK…

Julius Sobizack (President of ZSK Stickmaschinen (ZSK Embroidery Machines), the market leader in single and multi-head industrial embroidery machines) joins hosts Samanta Cortes and Stephanie Benedetto in the MouthMedia Network Studio at Voyager HQ.

New uses in manufacturing, 3D printing vs. embroidery, and zig-zag stitches

Sobizack discusses developing what was there before on the field of technical embroidery to create a new field solving 21st Century problems. Logos, lettering, embellishments are also a big industry of embroidery, and used in fashion and the home textile world. Heated car seats a great example of the use of embroidery, with wires stitched to foam or backing that is electrified and heats the seats. Different kinds of embroidery heads with different functions, a wide variety of materials that can be laid down “fixing” with a zig-zag stitch, a “wire hit” detection system to avoid undetected damage, creating electrodes for the wearable market, why embroidery machines are used for these jobs, and how frames can move in X and Y directions with almost no loss of very expensive material. ZSK producing the machine, consulting and supporting work for customers, comparing laying down of fiber vs. 3d printing, and how embroidery requires more human interaction than 3D printing and other methods.

Creating new products using old methods, sequins, and wearables

Carbon glass fibers and normal threads, and zig-zag stitches to hold materials down, most products different than typical embroidery which creates the final product because other products will need many processes for the final products. ZSK selling in more than 100 countries, and using sequin devices to hold down electronic devices. With wearable tech, power gets woven in with embroidery machines, delivering solutions with solar and batteries, how these kind of projects lead to development in embroidery methods, and creating interest in expanding development in US.

Traveling, business attire and brunch

Personal questions in a round of “Remnants” cover traveling without a laptop, work as a passion and hobby, movies, Sunday AM brunch, fast developing countries, the difference in business attire in difference cultures.

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Cotton, textiles, and sustainability…

Jeff Wilson (Director of Business Value Strategy & Development for Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit organization that works to make the textile industry more sustainable – bio) and Daren Abney (Membership Engagement Manager of Better Cotton Initiative, a not-for-profit organization stewarding the global standards for better cotton – bio) join Stephanie Benedetto, Samanta Cortes and guest host Marc Raco on location at TexWorld USA 2017.

Sustainability vs. business needs, the need for a metric, and adopting standards

Abney reviews being a proponent of making cotton production better for the environment and better for the cotton sector future, how BCI has transformed 11.9% of the global market as licensed Better Cotton, out of the goal of 30% by 2020. A Better Cotton standard system, a holistic approach to sustainability with emphasis on business, and a funding mechanism that funds field projects worldwide. Wilson talks about creating overall public good on standards, textiles, and supply chain including certification. How BCI, headquarted in Geneva Switzerland, is a member of Textile Exchange, which is also a member of BCI. Common goals of sustainability, commonality of vision and results, helping membership (brands) understand environmental impacts of primary materials, and how preferred materials would change that impact. Looking at ways established brands are approached vs. smaller brands. BCI’s continuous improvement and metric for change at the agricultural crop level, and considering that the Top 10 commodities impacting WWF include cotton. A look at Textile Exchange developing standards associated with given fibers or materials, what constitutes a certifiable material, wool as largely an animal rights standard, and a new way to be thinking about sustainability.

A global collective, designers, and life cycle assessment

Common problems across the industry, common conversations about the “dirty industry”, 4,000+ chemicals effluent, toxic into watersheds, human health problems, chemical issues with synthetics production and farm production, and a broad industry commonality which drives a lot of work in collective efforts. Why problems can’t be solved even by one single massive brand, requiring a global collective effort to transform an industry into a new model including environmental and social impacts. Creating awareness inside an industry, and how a vast number of buyers and designers are only now becoming aware of environmental and social issues. The importance of having something measurable that can meet market, and fundamental changes requiring a specific plan. The life cycle assessment (LCA) on products, such as jeans, and how fashion is largest in pollution.

Water, The Higg Index, and surfing

Businesses can protect business while addressing environmental issues such as water. 85% of global post-consumer textiles end up in a landfill. Getting more involved and reporting to members on a circular economy that’s gaining speed. No need to demonize consumption and fast fashion because there are more conversations to happen. The Higg Index, the need for more growth and execution at the designer level, and why design schools need to adopt more curriculum around these topics. Impacting lives, surfing and spirituality, yoga pants, board shorts, and the High Line.

References:

Zara

H and M

The North Face

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Inside Premiere Vision, a global textile event…

Guglielmo Olearo (bio), International Exhibitions Director of Premiere Vision (the global textile event for North American fashion professionals) joins hosts Rob Sanchez, Samanta Cortes and Marc Raco on location at Premiere Vision 2016 in New York.

History, passion, and learning from Italian fashion culture

Olearo discusses being in charge of development of international showrooms, and the birth of Premiere Vision in 1973, its growth into an international show, the desire of wanting to see collections in advance, and the most recent expansion in Istanbul. He talks about different shows for specific markets, his passion for textile and fantastic material in Italy, coming from a background in engineering for chemical materials, always waning to work in the fashion industry, how with emotion and passion everything is possible, and a common deep love for the textile industry. The love for redefining industry products every six months, and the exciting challenge of re-designing and innovating the show every six month. Italian culture, and respect for Italian designers want to learn about materials and build from there. The Italian tradition of developing a sense of aesthetics, and being an industry which starts with care of the detail. And the draw of knowing how to transform something that is 2D to 3D.

The next wave, evolution, and smell

The shift in industry thinking, the next wave for next show, a huge change in menswear moving toward more casual products, and how all exhibitors have been carefully chosen, giving visitors confidence in the quality. Witnessing the evolution of the market, seeing the future offering more and more fashion related digital activity, from digital printing and 3D printing, augmentation, changes on organization side, and a focus on sustainability. Personal questions in a round of “Remnants” covers Italian mountains, the influence of Premiere Vision on personal style, and the impact of smell.

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Himalayan nettle fibers…

Ellie Skeele (Founder and President of Himalayan Wild Fibers) and Pierre Schmitt (President, Philea Textiles) join hosts Rob Sanchez, Samanta Cortes and Stephanie Benedetto on location at Premiere Vision 2016 in New York.

Deadly cotton, Hemp for Victory, and the beauty of nettle

Skeele and Schmitt discuss textiles and how materials make a difference, how behind fashion is material, how we have lost contact with material, and why cotton is a deadly material with Schmitt saying 5-10,000 liters of water are used per pair of jeans, and with 30-50% of pesticides used just for cotton plantations worldwide. The way most of the textile culture has been lost, “Hemp for Victory”, how hemp was a natural local plant excellent for the environment, and why everyone should care about natural fibers that have no impact on environment.

How Himalayan nettle doesn’t need any water, or care with fertilizer, and how it is excellent for the body. Looking at how the whole textile industry was killed by cotton, which doesn’t grow in Europe, and how so many use cotton without thinking about the impact on the environment. Rediscovering beauty of nettle, how Himalayan nettle is very closely related to common nettle, how it evolved at altitude and grows only in forests with tree cover, is over 3 meters tall and perfectly sustainable with very few inputs. Examining that the fiber is the longest known to man to date, hollow, resilient and springy with a hollow core, comparable to cotton, grows in harsh climate, goes through changes in temp and rainfall to grow, resulting a very strong fiber.

Harvesting challenges, environmental impact, and teaching people to care

Himalayan Wild Fibers exists to commercialize the fiber and help farmers who live a subsistence farming life in the Himalayas. The nettle gives designers a story using this fiber. It is still a very new textile to use, quite pleasant to wear and very breathable. Considering that chemical processes kills cotton, looking for mill partners who can process fibers so manufacturers can use the fiber. Very hard to harvest given the very manual, and labor-intensive process. Not easy to scale, scaling up carefully to balance purchase s and demand with what villagers are able to do while not disturbing their lifestyle. Caution to not overharvest, yet beneficial to harvest as it creates net positive environmental impact, according to forestry pros. Only 5% of growing crop is harvested at this time. Mixing nettle with wool, and hopes that people will start planting nettle again. A small store has contact with consumers, investigating what people tell about wearing the nettle. How nettle could be good for allergies. Sharp stingers and how silicone offers some fire retardant qualities, Himalayan nettle has a lot of remarkable properties, and how Skeele and Schmitt got involved with the fiber.

A round of “Remnants” personal questions covers Les Miserables, a complicated look at developing nations, passion and emotion, growing up on a farm, teaching people to care, and the nightmare that connects clothing and food.

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Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy in materials with CLASS…

Giusy Bettoni  (bio), CEO of CLASS (Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy), a multi-platform global network showcasing exclusive textiles and materials created using smarter sustainable technology for everyone from business, designers, media and buyers, joins hosts Rob Sanchez, Samanta Cortes and Stephanie Benedetto on location at Premiere Vision 2016 in New York.

Innovation, critical cotton, and recuperating fibers

Bettoni discusses creativity, innovation, taste, and culture, and the relationship of needing to develop something to the whole vision of make fashion. How Italians are advanced. The definition of innovation, sustainable textiles, CLASS, material libraries, how cotton is the most used and critical fiber, working with spinner, recuperating discarded cotton fibers and turning them into a smart cotton while saving 67% of water with zero waste.

Made in the USA, new material categories, and education

Bringing business to the USA, how education is key, selecting the newest materials, the evolution from three material types (natural artificial and synthetic to new categories (i.e. natural, up-cycle, down-cycle, renewable, recycle, etc.). The new need to be thinking of this kind of inter-bracket info, transition time, how smart creations platforms are shedding light on what innovative fabric producers are doing and elevating them to global awareness.

The unexpected and unknown, Dream Weavers, and the sushi-loving Italian

Responding to new industry facts unexpected and unknown, microfibers vs. microbeads, the need to be aware of recyclability of different kind of materials and durability, the importance of defining how to use them. A round of “Remnants” personal questions covers traveling to discover new realities in the Philippines, a woman sitting in room with a spinner, Dream Weavers, researching glasses, and the Italian who craves sushi.

References:

• Archroma [Episode 002]

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Footwear material development at Nike…

Ileang Lee (bio), Material Developer, NSW Running, Global Footwear Materials for Nike, joins hosts Stephanie Benedetto, Rob Sanchez, and Samanta Cortes on location at ThoughtWorks.

A 3 year plan, flyknit, and Air Force 1

Lee discusses developing materials for tan entire category, working with 150+ models, planning Nike’s 3-year game plan in advance, Nike’s target to become a $50 Billion company by 2020, the innovation and developing of materials, the strict testing for materials for use at Nike, developing materials that sustain the aesthetics of the shoe, testing out to the future, and Nike’s advanced product creation center. Flyknit as an amazing piece of material with no wastage but expensive to produce knitted to shape, and improves performance due to lightweight, the magic of “flying” in footwear, and how everyone should look out for the Air Force 1’s.

Being Australian, sustainable materials, and the Making app

Being Australian and working as Senior Product Development Project Manager at Stoll America. What matters most in speed to market, what Lee will be looking at when at material shows, reusable and recyclable materials, bringing back heritage models, how midsoles are reusable and recycled, what the dream is with fabrics, breathability considerations with fibers, moving toward development to shape to minimize wastage, what designers should be thinking of when entering foot market, and Sneakerheads. How materials are steered by consumers vs. how much consumer desire steered by developer of shoes. Leather growth, mushroom growth, bio and degradable materials being used in shoes, sustainable leather, chemical polymers, dyes without water, and bottles spun into threads. Nike making sure of proper work environment in international sourcing or manufacturing, cost engineers, and the app “Making” from Nike.

Training, waterfalls and favorites

A segment of “Remnants” offers personal questions covering training her father’s staff and serving customers as a child, chasing waterfalls, and favorite footwear.

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In-house fashion team at global textile event with Premiere Vision…

Sabine Le Chatelier (bio), Associate Fashion Director of Premiere Vision (the global textile event for North American fashion professionals) joins hosts Rob Sanchez, Samanta Cortes and Marc Raco on location at Premiere Vision 2016 in New York.

In-house fashion, fashion identity, and sharing ideas

Le Chatelier shares the nature and purpose of the fashion team at this trade show, as a unique internal, in-house fashion team, and as part of the DNA of Premier Vision. How brands can source material for upcoming garment collections, the path of constructing and creating the fashion identity of the season every six months, and the particular process based on international meetings and gathering and sharing ideas and concerns about the future.

A six month window, trends, and sensuality of fabric

The future of materials, how fashion is a fast evolving business with less than six months for fast changes, a permanent work on the future, and pushing fast and crating a consensus. How trends are developed, giving a meaning and story about a color each season, how exhibitors benefit from the sharing of access and information while developing their collections, the tactile connections with fibers, and how the surprises are Le Chatelier’s favorites. Sensuality of materials, how fabrics are more than visual and all about five senses, the complexity of transmitting this combined information, and keeping the lively flow of fashion.

Cultural storytelling, hobbies, and a musical regret

Personal questions in a segment of “Remnants” cover the complexity of storytelling in various cultures and international communication, walking vs. working, and a musical regret.

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