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Doug Stailey does a deep dive into the French 75 to reexamine what the Monster in a Glass podcast described ten years ago. Yes, there is a whole lot more to the story than what we knew then involving the previous owners of the New York Bar in Paris as well as a comedy author charged with revitalizing old mags past their prime and printing cocktail recipes during Prohibition.

Posted on February 3, 2024 by libationlegacy

My friend Cam Marceau, of the Monster in a Glass podcast, has invited me to join him in revisiting his old episodes, starting with the first, on the subject of the Manhattan Cocktail and it’s history. I used to take part in this programs towards the end of it’s run, but missed out on its early days. Listening to this first show from 2012, which features Cam along with his researcher Jason Kruse, I should note that it remains factually very accurate, and I can only agree with what they turned up back then. However, in the intervening years, more digital resources have become available, and I can add to and enhance their original findings.

Poring through several digital archives of newspapers, books and other documents, the first mention of the Manhattan Cocktail comes from an article which was syndicated in several newspapers. The earliest publication date for it that I’ve turned up was August 31, 1882. in the Lyndon (Kansas) Leader, under the headline “Gotham Gossip”. There is no ambiguity here, the author states plainly that “It is but a short time ago that a mixture of whisky, vermouth and bitters came into vogue. It went under various names–Manhattan cocktail and Turf Club cocktail. Bartenders at first were sorely puzzled as to what was wanted when it was demanded. But now they are fully cognizant of its various aliases and no difficulty is encountered.”

I can confirm that there is no earlier mention of the Manhattan in any of my many sources, and also that after this first reference, it was discussed more and more with each passing year. So this gives us a fairly clear starting point. If the author is to be believed, and given they clarity of his statement I see no reason for doubt, the Manhattan was invented shortly before 1882, with enough lead time for it to have become more widely known.

But despite this claim, the drink itself did not show up in any recipe books until 1884. Monster in a Glass identifies two of these books, O. H. Byron’s “The Modern Bartender’s Guide” and George Winter’s “How to Mix Drinks”. I have since discovered a third such book from the same year, which also lists a recipe for the Manhattan. The author is unknown, but the volume is amusingly titled “Scientific Bar-Keeping”. Published by a distiller, E. N. Cook & Company, the copyright was held by Jos. W. Gibson. But the Jos. W. Gibson Company was a publishing firm, so most likely they were simply the ones responsible for production.

Before we get to the recipes, I should clarify the nineteenth century terminology they employ, which can be confusing. The wineglass was a two-ounce measure according to the apothecary system of measurements, which was in common use by doctors and other compounders in the 1880s. This is corroborated in several sources, for example Sir Robert Christison’s “A Dispensatory, or Commentary on the Pharmacopoeias of Great Britain” (1842), and in the U.S., Clara Weeks-Shaw’s “A Text-Book of Nursing” (1898). A pony is generally considered to be one ounce.

Dry Martinis called for French vermouth, which was the generic term for dry vermouth, while Italian vermouth was used in Sweet Martinis, and would have been a Torino-style red variety. If “vermouth” is used without a qualifier, it would have been the Italian variety, since dry vermouth was rare before the 1890s.

Per most contemporary recipes for it, gum syrup usually did not contain any actual gum, and was the general term for simple syrup. With these facts to go on, the following prescriptions should be more or less intelligible.

“The Modern Bartenders Guide” provides two versions:

The second of these is very close to the one I favor today, except I use a 2:1 whiskey/vermouth ratio. Cointreau can be substituted for the Orange Curacao, if you don’t have any.

“How to Mix Drinks” includes this take:

Peruvian bitters would most likely have been quinine-based, since cinchona bark was well known to have come from Peru.

Finally, “Scientific Bar-Keeping” mixes theirs like so:

This is the only one of the three that recommends shaking the Manhattan. Those crazy scientists! It’s also the only one which recommends a twist of lemon peel.

No cherry in any of these, of course. My research on the maraschino cherry for The Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails reveals that those didn’t make it to America until 1885, and were unknown here at the time that the Manhattan was invented. The cherry starts to show up at the end of the 1880s, and on March 15, 1891, The Kansas City Times ran an article headlined “A Cherry in Your Cocktail,” in which a bartender relates:

Another Manhattan Cocktail mystery concerns where the drink was invented. As Monster in a Glass points out, it was often attributed to the Manhattan Club, a political club in New York affiliated with the Democratic Party. While we still can’t be certain, several of my sources support this claim. An article in the Sag Harbor Corrector, published April 29, 1893, and entitled “Manhattan Club Cocktails,” starts off with the statement that “The popular Manhattan Cocktail is an invention of the Manhattan Club of N.Y. City, which by the by, has invented more famous drinks than any other place in the country.”

On the other hand, in July 14th, 1920, the New York Times published and article about the recent sale of the Hotel Manhattan, located at the northwest corner of Madison Avenue and 42nd Street. The new owners auctioned off practically everything in the building, in 15,000 lots, described by the Times as “the largest sale of its kind ever attempted in this city.” The article goes on to say “Though brisk bidding for the Manhattan bar and its fixtures is not anticipated, the final passing of the native bar of the Manhattan cocktail is expected to attract many an enthusiast.”

This claim that the Hotel Manhattan was the birthplace of the Manhattan Cocktail caused many an eyebrow to raise, and it was not long before it was challenged in another newspaper. Two days later, the New York Evening Telegram included their take, under the headline “Where the Manhattan Cocktail Began.” This article quotes the passage from the Times, then drolly puts forward the following, in the style of a congressional resolution:

This rebuttal was correct about the age of the Manhattan Hotel, it was constructed in 1895 through 1896, and could in no way be the provenance of the Manhattan. It also generated feedback from their readership, so much so that on July 20th, the Evening Telegram ran a follow-up which included some letters to the editor, under the headline “More Light on Ancient New York History.” Quoting from this:

So there’s Col. Henry Watterson again, who was mentioned in the original Monster in a Glass podcast as making a similar claim. Although we can never be completely certain, there are multiple independent sources which affirm that the Manhattan Cocktail was invented at the Manhattan Club in New York City around 1880, but certainly not much earlier that that.

Another, very different take, was included in the 1923 edition of Valentine’s Manual of Old New York, compiled by the venerable historian of that city’s history, Henry Collins Brown. Each edition of Brown’s series featured entirely new collections of vignettes and recollections, every one a precious source of memory and lore. This particular volume included a chapter entitled “The Golden Age of Booze” by William F. Mulhall, who back in the 1880s had bartended at the Hoffman House, a famous watering hole of that era.

At one point in his story, Mulhall puts forward as fact that,

While this could be construed to discuss the Manhattan Cocktail we know now, my impression is that it does not refer to the mixture of whiskey, vermouth and bitters that is under discussion here, and can’t be taken as a claim that the Manhattan was a product of the 1860s. Mulhall’s further comments appear to clarify this, that there were many cocktails enjoyed in Manhattan, and not that any of them in particular was the eponymous sip.

So I stick with the majority opinion, that the Manhattan Club was its cradle, and will persist in this perspective until someone with greater authority can prove me wrong.

Here’s a link to the Monster in a Glass podcast, “The Manhattan Project,” back from 2012:

https://www.podomatic.com/podcasts/monsterinaglass/episodes/2012-07-28T22_00_00-07_00

“Gotham Gossip”, Lyndon (Kansas) Leader, August 31,1882

New York Times, July 14, 1920

The Evening Telegram–New York, Friday, July 16, 1920

The Evening Telegram–New York, Tuesday, July 20

, 1920

The Corrector, Sag Harbor, New York, April 29, 1893

A dispensatory, or commentary on the pharmacopoeias of Great Britain, Sir Robert Christison, 1842

“The Modern Bartender’s Guide”, O. H. Byron, 1884

“How to Mix Drinks”, George Winter, 1884

“Scientific Bar-Keeping”, 1884