New Worlder

Sarah Thompson is the chef of Casa Playa in the Wynn Hotel in Las Vegas, Nevada. She was born in Boston, Massachusetts and is a Culinary Institute of America graduate who spent many years working in New York City at restaurants like Marea and Alder, but when taking a job with Enrique Olvera and Daniela Soto-Innes at Cosme, she fell in love with Mexican cuisine. When that restaurant wanted a variation of it called Elio in Las Vegas she was tapped as the executive chef. They opened right at the same time the pandemic hit, so after months of openings and closings and instability on the Las Vegas strip it closed. However, she was able to convince the Wynn to let her take over the space and serve her form of Mexican cooking.

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Casa Playa serves coastal Mexican food, but it’s not attached to any specific region. She has no sentimental background with a grandmother in Michoacán or anything like that, so she doesn’t try to insinuate that she does and just lets the flavors work together as she sees fit. She even whips the masa for her tamales with coconut oil. It’s a very particular environment, running a restaurant inside of a casino. The way people dine is different. They often come in large groups. She has a late-night taco menu for those that want to stop in for a quick bite before during or after going to a club or some kind of attraction. The lighting is beyond her control at times. These unique attributes also give her an opportunity to do things a little differently. It’s a really fascinating world in Las Vegas. I know it seems like a place I wouldn’t like, but I’ve never really gone there for all of the money and excess and nightlife that it has a reputation for. I’ve always appreciated just the weirdness of Las Vegas which is everywhere, though sometimes you have to peel back what’s on the surface.

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Based in Malmo, Sweden,Lotta & Per-Anders Jörgensen are the founders of the legendary food magazine Fool. Lotta is an art director and Per-Anders, or P.A. as I have come to call him, is a photographer. This is a magazine that launched in 2012 and has put out, thus far, 8 issues, very sporadically. It has been a few years since. The last issue, but as they reveal in the episode, there will be a #9.

Aside of its unpredictable publishing schedule, Fool is a rare kind of magazine. In a world where everything moves so fast, where writing about food is mostly oriented towards minuscule bits of information on social media that keep coming at a rapid pace, one after the other, Fool is slow. It’s thoughtful. It’s reflective. It’s stories are about interesting humans that work in food and their ideas, regardless of how well known they are. It’s creative, with beautiful illustrations and photography, and stories that have always gone a little bit deeper than anywhere else. I had the pleasure of writing a few feature stories there and there was never any indication of what the word count should be. Just make it as long as you think it should be, they would say. That kind of collaboration is a dream for a writer or contributor of any sort. When you pick up an issue, you can read it like a book. A decade later, the stories remain relevant.

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Lotta and PA also create books, such as the Burnt Ends book, which we talked about with that restaurant’s chef, Dave Pynt, in the previous episode. They’ve also worked with Andoni Luis Aduriz of Mugaritz, and quite a few other truly iconic chefs. There is also a documentary series they have created that they will launch soon, or at least soonish, or when it feels right. Anyway, their work has always been a big inspiration for me so it was a pleasure to have them on.

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Dave Pynt is the Perth, Australia born chef of the restaurant Burnt Ends in Singapore. Burnt Ends, open since 2013, which followed a pop-up in London the year before, is has been one of the restaurants driving the global conversation around modern barbecue, which, as Pynt explains, is barbecue where anything goes. It’s not attached to tradition, to history or to borders. It simply means a focus on cooking over fire and the influences are many. It doesn’t even necessarily mean cooking meat as you might assume as with the word barbecue as it is used in the United States.

Pynt recently published a book about the restaurant, which is unlike almost any cookbook I’ve seen before. It’s not a straightforward life story with recipes. Much of the history is written and illustrated like a graphic novel. There are interviews and thoughts about technique surrounding cooking with fire. As we discuss in the interview, he didn’t even want to include recipes, but he ultimately caved, but those recipes are written just as they are used in the restaurant, rather than trying to dumb them down for a home kitchen. He worked with mutual friends Pers-Anders and Lotta Jorgensen, who you might know from the Swedish food magazine Fool, in creating the book, which they self-published so they didn’t have to make any compromises in the style.

We discuss the path he took from working around the world, the time he spent traveling in South America, how Asador Etxebarri impacted his life and the change in set up from his previously small restaurant in Singapore’s Chinatown to a much bigger spread with multiple concepts on Dempsey Hill.

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Meghan Flanigan & Mario Rosero are the owners of the restaurant Prudencia in Bogotá, Colombia. Prudencia is a timeless restaurant in La Candelaria, an old building reformatted by the architect Simón Veléz. It’s only open for lunch and when you eat there it feels like you’re hanging out at a friend’s house. You are free to move around the place. To take a snack off their homemade grills in the back garden or to linger for far longer than you might anywhere else. There’s no specific style of food you can point too, other than they mostly cook over wood and use Colombian ingredients. An idea for a plate might happen anywhere, sometimes a book, and not necessarily a cookbook.

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You’ll hear in the interview how everything about their process seems counterintuitive about how restaurants are supposed to be run. For example, they pay their staff well above average to the point that they hardly ever leave, plus post-pandemic they raised wages and menu prices significantly while reducing the capacity. The menu is never the same, changing every single week. Prudencia is a restaurant that thinks a lot about balance. About human balance. Maintaining working relationships. The nutritional balance you feel when dining there and how your body feels afterward.

Mario says, “I don’t think we can go back to what did pre-pandemic. To sell the most affordable quality at the highest volume you can do.”

They talk about their future plans, which includes closing the restaurant, very soon actually, and taking a long sabbatical, taking a step back and reevaluating everything, before completely reinventing themselves. Whatever it is I’m excited for it.

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Olivier Bur is the chef and owner of the restaurant Casarré in the city of the Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic. Casarré is unlike any other restaurant I’ve heard of in the Caribbean. It’s a fine dining restaurant, at least in the sense that it serves 7 to 10 courses and a pairing, even though it does it in a casual way. There are of course many other fine dining restaurants in the Caribbean too, but unlike everywhere, Casarré is defined by its limitations as much as it is abundance. They don’t use flour, milk or eggs and instead find alternatives within the natural environment. They don’t serve wine in the pairing, as it isn’t produced on the island, and instead make different distillations like Mamajuana and source Clairin, an unaged sugarcane rum from Haiti, which needs to be bottled in Europe for it to be legally sold in the DR. They cook on a rustic wood fire, as it is done in the countryside, shunning most modern cooking equipment. It’s a fascinating approach in a region that needs some disruption.

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Olivier was born and raised in Switzerland with his Dominican mother making typical Dominican foods for him every day. He still felt disconnected from Dominican food and life there, but as he became a professional cook, working in kitchens around Europe and Latin America, including Pujol and Noma Mexico, he gradually gravitated more and more to the island. After a few pop ups and research trips (which he continues to write about), he moved to Santo Domingo and began creating a network of collaborators. Not just suppliers and culinary friends, but artisan craftsmen of every sort. Casarré is a restaurant that tells the story of and immerses you in Dominican culture in a really profound way. And as you will hear in this interview, he has the right temperate and patience for it to work.

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Bryan Ford is the author of the new book Pan Y Dulce: The Latin American Baking Book. Bryan is a baker and a very good one, and I think he’s looking at Latin American breads unlike anyone else. His first book, New World Sourdough, released right in the middle of the pandemic was a giant hit and it’s one of my most used baking books. It’s good practical advice at making better sourdough and as I mention in the conversation, his persona makes it less intimidating. At least for me. I find bread intimidating sometimes because it takes a while to make and I found it easy to mess up, especially when I first started making it. Pan y Dulce goes deep into the traditional breads of Latin America and I’m excited to use it. There are recipes for things like Peruvian pan chuta, pizza like fugazettas from Argentina, cassava breads, and other types of baked goods that don’t get much attention stateside. For a lot of these traditional breads that are rarely made with wild yeasts these days, he includes sourdough options. I’m especially excited to test this out as so many of these breads have so much potential made in this way.

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Ford was born in the Bronx to Honduran immigrants and raised in New Orleans. He was an accountant that liked baking and started to make a wholesale business out of it on the side. When he made a Honduran pan de coco, at his mother’s request, his blog Artisan Bryan suddenly exploded. He is the the host of Magnolia Network’s Baked in Tradition and The Artisan’s Kitchen, and you’ve probably seen him on some other shows on Netflix and elsewhere. Aside of the new book Pan Y Dulce, he also launched a Substack newsletter last year, also under the name Artisan Bryan . Despite his growing popularity, he’s not afraid to talk about things like slavery and colonialism, which I find refreshing. It seems like you are supposed to ignore history if you gain some mainstream traction. These things have had an obvious impact on breadmaking in Latin America, so of course he, as an Afro-Honduran acknowledges them, right in the first pages of the new book. He does it in a way that still celebrates the recipes, though some editors might be scared away by it. I personally appreciate the way he does it. It would be stranger to me if he didn’t mention these things. So, show your support and buy the book.

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Click here to buy Pan Y Dulce.

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This is a very special 100th episode of this podcast. That’s not something I ever expected to say. I really had no understanding of what it takes to launch a podcast when I started. I just recorded conversations with friends and colleagues and posted them online. That’s still basically what it is, but I think I’ve become a bit better about how I go about it. I have Juli of course as a co-host to ask intelligent questions and grasp big concepts that I miss. I’m a little more comfortable interviewing people now, and I have a better understanding of who makes a good guest. Some thoughts about food, cooking and life are very different than they were four years ago, while others are the same.

Even though it was just a few years ago, the world seems like a very different kind of place than it was in April of 2019. We were still in the midst of the pandemic and everyone was trying to think of what direction the world. What was going to happen to restaurants. To hunger. To food systems. To ecosystems. Everyone had taken a step back and was starting to have a new perspective on things. Very quickly, we all became caught up in the same problems. I think we are still sorting ourselves out from the pandemic, especially as it relates to food. We’re still trying to envision what the future looks like. It it’s really f*****g messy right now.

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For this episode I wanted to try and think well into the future. Not just the next five, ten or twenty years, which I think are going to be rough, but 100 years away. Can we imagine what that is going to look like? What are we going to be eating? How are we going to be producing this food? How are we going to feed the extra 2 billion people on the planet when the earth’s population peaks in 60 years?

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I asked three people I have known for a very long time to appear on this episode. All three have been past guests. They are extremely different people from different backgrounds and I have deep respect for all of them and the work that they do. I would never have imagined I could get them in a room together. There’s Giuliana Furci from Chile, who founded the Fungi Foundation and literally has and is changing the legal framework around fungi in the world. There’s Nephi Craig, the chef of Café Gozhóó in Whiteriver, Arizona, whose vision for ancestral food systems extends far beyond kitchen skills. And lastly, Andrea Petrini, the Italian writer and founder of Gelinaz!, who is continually questioning the idea of art as it relates to cooking. Of course there was also with Juliana Duque, my co-host, who brings her own anthropological background to the conversation. They are all some of my favorite people. They are people that continually fight for what they believe in, but they always do it with love. It’s something to aspire to and it was an honor to converse with them here.

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Alejandro Osses is a food photographer from Bogotá, Colombia who recently moved to Madrid, Spain. He recently published a book of his work documenting food in Colombia over the past decade, called De Cero a Cuatromil Ochocientos, with Colombian publisher Hammbre de Cultura. He's a great photographer, that focuses on the human element behind the food as much as he does about the art of cooking, and the book takes you all over Colombia, from the high altitude wetlands and urban areas to Afro-Caribbean communities on the Pacific coast to indigenous outposts in the Amazon.

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Osses is also involved in a lot of other projects, alongside his wife, a great food writer named Carmen Posada. Together they have helped create Futuro Coca, a conference about coca leaves; Mucho Colombia, a distribution model for heritage Colombian ingredients from rural and indigenous producers; and Migrant Food Systems, which he is developing in Spain.

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Purchase De cero a cuatro mil ochocientos through this link.

Shane Mitchell is the author of the book The Crop Cycle: Stories with Deep Roots, which is a history of food in the American South, often reflecting on her family’s three centuries of history on Edisto Island, South Carolina connects with it. While told through stories that center around 11 different crops, the book isn’t directly about food, but how we center it as a way to understand cycles of life. All of the stories in the book, except for one, were originally published in The Bitter Southerner, a brilliant magazine and website about the South. It has some of the most beautiful writing anywhere in it and despite having little to do with the south I read it regularly.

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Shane lives in upstate New York and is the Editor at Large for Saveur, which is now back in print and absolutely deserves your support. She also writes for The New York Times and is the author Far Afield: Rare Food Encounters from Around the World, a book about her travels around the world while profiling the stewards of the world's traditional foodways and it also features beautiful photos and recipes. She is a many times James Beard award winner and one of my favorite writers anywhere, so I was really excited to have this extended conversation with her

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Purchase The Crop Cycle: Stories With Deep Roots through this link.

You can also listen to the New Worlder podcast on Apple podcasts, Spotify, and most other podcast sites.

Rather than a straight forward interview, this episode is a report from on the ground in Barranquilla, Colombia during the city’s annual gastronomy festival, Sabor Barranquilla. The 17th edition of the festival occurred at the end of August and we were there to capture the sounds of the city and speak with local cooks, event organizers and people in the street, while exploring the region’s diverse cuisine, from Lebanese restaurants to fried street snacks and corozó wine.

You can also listen to the New Worlder podcast on Apple podcasts, Spotify, and most other podcast sites.

New Worlder is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.