Hartwick Pines State Park, located near Grayling, Michigan is a special place that preserves one of the few remaining Old Growth White Pine Forests in Michigan. On today's episode, special guest Hillary Pine joins the podcast to talk about the park and how it was created through the efforts of Karen Hartwick. Hillary is the Northern Lower Peninsula Historian for the Michigan Department of Natural Resources and the Michigan History Center. 

In the late 19th century the area that is now Hartwick Pines State Park was logged by the Salling, Hanson, and Company of Grayling. In 1893, in the midst of cutting a large tract of pine, the loggers stopped where they were due to the Panic of 1893, a now little known economic depression of the time period. Home construction was stopped dead in its tracks, so the lumber industry was stalled as well. The Salling, Hanson, and Company (SHCo.) left a stand of approximately 85 acres of pine. When they resumed logging the area about three years later, they deemed this tract of pine to be too small in size to warrant the expense of operating a camp and the logging railroad maintenance to finish the cut. Instead they turned their attention to a nearby 8,000 acre tract of pine. 

The SHCo. never cut this remaining stand and it became a local landmark for area residents to drive a wagon or later automobiles out to the pines to picnic. Rasmus Hanson, the president of the SHCo. unsuccessfully tried to sell the stand to the state of Michigan to create a state park, but this was a time when the state was gaining land at no cost through tax reversion. Karen Hartwick, the daughter of Nels Michelson, a former partner in the SHCo. was persuaded to step in to purchase the land and donate it to the state to create a state park in the memory of her late husband, Grayling native Major Edward E. Hartwick, who died serving his country in World War I.

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Episode Resources

Miller, Gordon K. "A Biographical Sketch of Major Edward E. Hartwick, Together with a Compilation of Major Hartwick's Letters and Diaries Written During the Spanish-American and World Wars." Detroit, MI, 1921 (Heritage Books reprint).

Pine, Hillary. "Hartwick Pines, A Story of Love,"  "Michigan History magazine." Vol. 102, No. 1, January/February 2018.

Hartwick Pines Logging Museum website, Michigan History Center
https://www.michigan.gov/mhc/museums/hp

Hartwick Pines State Park website, Michigan DNR, Parks and Recreation Division
https://www.michigan.gov/recsearch/parks/hartwick

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In this episode, we head north to Michigan's Upper Peninsula and discover "the Kingston Plains." This is an area of cutover and burned over land, known as stumpfields because the most predominant feature on the landscape is the vast amount of fire-scarred tree stumps. 

Typically during logging operations there would be a lot of "slash" left after the big (and sometimes not so big) trees were harvested. This would consist of the branches and limbs from the trees that had been removed from the trunks, trees of lesser or no value that needed to be removed for clear landings for the big pines, and anything that stood in the way for moving the logs out of the forest. These piles of forest litter would just sit in the cutover areas and dry out from the sun. They were susceptible to fires from a variety of means: lightning, sparks from trains, being intentionally burned to clear the land or carelessness with a match or a pipe of tobacco. In places with excessive amounts of slash, these fires would burn quick and hot. The Kingston Plains was one such place where this happened. Not once, but several times. In the case of the Kingston Plains, these fires burned so hot that seeds from the logged trees were destroyed and the nutrients that fertilized the soils were baked away. The results was a landscape that resembled a moonscape.

This episode brings you to the site of the Kingston Plains in Alger county and reveals some of the background of the lumber operations that utilized this land.

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How to Visit the Kingston Plains:
The Kingston Plains is managed by the Michigan Department of Natural Resources as part of the Lake Superior State Forest. It is located along the Kingston Truck Trail and the Adams Truck Trail in Alger county, south of County Road H58 and west of Michigan route M77. It is south of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. The two main roads through the area are seasonal roads but are okay for most cars to follow. There are numerous two-tracks that branch off of the main roads that are not recommended for two-wheel drive or low clearance vehicles. There are a few state forest campgrounds in the area and there are two national park campgrounds in the nearby Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, but the closest lodging is at the two ends of Pictured Rocks at nearby Grand Marais, and further west at Munising. Other visitor amenities are lacking nearby. There are no restroom or water facilities at the Kingston Plains, so please plan accordingly.

Episode Sources:

Botti, William B. and Michael D. Moore. "Michigan's State Forests: A Century of Stewardship." East Lansing, MI, Michigan State University Press. 2006.

Burg, Rob. "Fire Follows the Axe: Climate Change and the Lumber Industry in the Upper Great Lakes in the 19th and early 20th  centuries." Unpublished manuscript. Presented at the 2023 ALHFAM Conference, Sauder Village, Archbold, OH. 2023.

Crowe, William S. (and edited by Lynn McGlothlin Emerick and Ann McGlothlin Weller) "Lumberjack: Inside an Era in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan." Skandia, MI, North Country Publishing, Third edition, 2002.

Dickmann, Donald I. and Larry A. Leefers. "The Forests of Michigan." Ann Arbor, MI, The University of Michigan Press, 2003.

Fuller, George N. "Governors of the Territory and State of Michigan." Lansing, MI, Michigan Historical Commission, Bulletin No. 16, 1928.

Murphy, Donovan. "On the Altar of Industry: A History of the Kingston Plains."  "Up Country: A Journal of the Lake Superior Region." North

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Near the end of the logging era, there was a realization that our forests were not the inexhaustible resource that was once thought. Throughout the United States there was an effort to reforest the cutover lands and develop a new system of modern forestry. In Michigan this began to happen in the Grayling-Higgins Lake-Roscommon area of the northern Lower Peninsula.

In this episode of the North Country History with Rob Burg podcast I go on location to the Historic Higgins Lake Nursery and the Beal Plantation where some of the early efforts of Michigan's reforestation movement began. I recorded these remotes in May 2024 during a vacation that took me from Higgins Lake to the central Upper Peninsula.

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For more information about the sites visited, please check out these links:

North Higgins Lake State Park:
https://www2.dnr.state.mi.us/parksandtrails/Details.aspx?id=478&type=SPRK

Higgins Lake Nursery and CCC Museum:
https://www.michigan.gov/mhc/museums/hln-ccc

Beal Plantation:
https://graylingmichigan.org/listing/w-j-beal-tree-planting-area/46/

Episode Sources:
Botti, William and Michael D. Moore. "Michigan's State Forests: A Century of Stewardship." East Lansing, MI, Michigan State University Press, 2006.

Dempsey, Dave. "Ruin & Recovery: Michigan's Rise as a Conservation Leader." Ann Arbor, MI,  The University of Michigan Press, 2001.

Dickmann, Donald I. and Larry A. Leefers. "The Forests of Michigan." Ann Arbor, MI, The University of Michigan Press, 2003.

Hotchkiss, George W. "History of the Lumber and Forestry Industry of the Northwest." Chicago, IL, 1898.

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This episode is a continuation of the previous episode "Winter Logging." After the logs were cut in the winter they were moved to the banking grounds to await the Spring breakup of ice on the rivers to move the logs by water to the sawmills at the mouths of the rivers on the Great Lakes. 

River drives were the most dangerous aspect of the logging industry. It took a steady and skillful man to be able to handle logs on a river drive as they were shepherded to the sawmills. Injury and death could be encountered by the careless or just unlucky river driver. For this reason, only the best hands were hired to move the logs. They had to be agile on their feet and be skilled to handle the tools of the trade such as the pike poles and Peavey poles.  At the end of the drives in milltowns such as Alpena, AuSable and Oscoda, Bay City, Manistee, Manistique, Menominee, Muskegon, Oscoda, and Saginaw, the men were rewarded with their pay, alcohol, female companionship, and entertainment of all kinds. These men would walk tall as the greatest figures in the lumber industry.

However there was a great environmental impact of the river drives on the rivers of the Great Lakes, some that we are still feeling today. The landscapes of the rivers changed by the impact of logs being dumped into the river. The rivers themselves changed, making them less suitable for aquatic and terrestrial wildlife, and it has taken a century, or more, for these rivers to recover.

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Correction in Podcast: I kept mentioning Front Street in Bay City. It is actually Water Street that I was referring to.

Episode Sources:

Alexander, Jeff. "The Muskegon: The Majesty and Tragedy of Michigan's Rarest River." Michigan State University Press, East Lansing, MI, 2006.

Allen, Clifford (editor). "Michigan Log Marks." WPA Writers' Project, Michigan State College, East Lansing, MI, 1941.

Benson, Barbara E. "Logs and Lumber: The Development of Lumbering in Michigan's Lower Peninsula 1837-1870." Clarke Historical Library, Central Michigan University, Mount Pleasant, MI, 1989.

Crowe, William S., and Lynn McGlothlin Emerick and Ann McGlothlin Weller (editors). "Lumberjack: Inside an Era in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan." North Country Publishing, Skandia, MI, 2002.

Foehl, Harold M. and Irene M. Hargreaves. "The Story of Logging the White Pine in the Saginaw Valley." Red Keg Press, Bay City, MI, 1964.

Halsey, John R., Eric A. McDonald, and Rose Lockwood Moore. "The East Branch Big Creek Logging Dam and Sluiceway (20OD25), Oscoda County, Michigan."  "The Michigan Archaeologist." Michigan Archaeological Society, Grand Rapids, MI, Vol. 43, Nos. 2-3, 1997.

Kilar, Jeremy W. "Michigan's Lumbertowns: Lumbermen and Laborers in Saginaw, Bay CIty, and Muskegon, 1870-1905." Wayne State University Press, Detroit, MI, 1990.

Maybee, Rolland H. "Michigan's White Pine Era 1840-1900." Michigan Historical Commission, Lansing, MI, 1960.

Miller, Hazen L. "The Old Au Sable." William B. Eerdmans Publishing Co., Grand Rapids, MI, 1963.

Nolan, Herbert. "Logging the Tittabawassee: In Memory of Camp Sixteeners." Printer Devil's Press, Tawas City, MI, 1970.

Rector, William Gerald. "Log Transportation in the Lake States Lumber Industry, 1840-1918." The Arthur H. Clarke Company, Glendale, CA, 1953.

 

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Prior to mechanized transportation, logging and winter were synonymous. The only way to move logs upwards of 5-6 miles was on ice and snow. In the white pine region, this made winter the ideal season to be logging in the forests. Large log sleds were pulled by a team of two horses, or oxen in some locations, over roads that had been iced and carefully groomed over time to support the heavy loads. They were taken most commonly to a banking grounds along a river to wait for the Spring thaw and the opening of the rivers to transport the logs to the sawmills. 

In this episode, listeners will learn about the grooming of the roads and the uses of horses and sleds to move the logs, and how the "shantyboys" (the loggers' term for themselves) lived and worked in the forests during the coldest months of the year.

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Episode Sources:

Benson, Barbara E. "Logs and Lumber: The Development of Lumbering in Michigan's Lower Peninsula 1837-1870." Clarke Historical Library, Central Michigan University, Mount Pleasant, MI, 1989.

Ellis, Charles. "Among the Michigan Pines," "The Current." Chicago, Volume III, 1885.

Fitzmaurice, John W. "The Shanty Boy: Or Life in a Lumber Camp." Democrat Steam Print, Cheboygan, MI, 1889.

Heilala, John J. "In an Upper Michigan Lumber Camp."  "Michigan History" Michigan Historical Commission, Lansing, MI, Vol. 36, No. 1, March 1952.

Holbrook, Stewart H. "Holy Old Mackinaw, A Natural History of the American Lumberjack." The MacMillan Company, New York, 1938.

Karamanski, Theodore J. "Deep Woods Frontier: A History of Logging in Northern Michigan." Wayne State University Press, Detroit, MI, 1989.

Maybee, Rolland H. "Michigan's White Pine Era 1840-1900. Michigan Historical Commission, Lansing, MI, 1960.

Nelligan, John Emmett. "A White Pine Empire, the Life of a Lumberman." North Star Press, St. Cloud, MN, 1969 edition (originally published in 1929).

Sorden, L.G. "Lumberjack Lingo." Wisconsin House, Spring Green, WI, 1969.

Wells, Robert W. "Daylight in the Swamp!" Doubleday & Company, Garden City, NY, 1978.

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"The lumber industry was to Michigan in the 19th century as what the automotive industry was to Michigan in the 20th century."* It was what most people outside of Michigan thought of when they thought of Michigan. And it was the period between the Civil War and the beginning of the 20th century that made Michigan the leader in lumber production.

At the end of the U.S. Civil War the Michigan lumber industry resumed at a great pace. This was due in part with the construction of the Transcontinental Railroad across the Great Plains and the Homestead Act that allowed people to stake a claim for land and develop it as a homestead or farm for free. These led to a mass immigration west and the need for more Great Lakes lumber. This episodes traces how the lumber industry was affected by this greater need and how innovation in transportation and cutting technology, both in the forest and in the sawmills, led to Michigan being a leader in the national lumber industry for nearly thirty years. 

This fueled Michigan's economy and set up the state for economic and industrial success in the 20th century.

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*A phrase that I coined and have been using since 1998 when I began my career in forest history at the Hartwick Pines Logging Museum, a Michigan History Museum field-site.

Episode Sources

Allen, Clifford (editor). "Michigan Log Marks." WPA Writers' Program, Michigan State College, East Lansing, MI, 1941.

Hotchkiss, George W. "History of the Lumber and Forestry Industry of the Northwest," Chicago, IL, 1898.

Huckle, Earl and Keith H. Johnson. "Cadillac's Shay Locomotive, Titan of the Timber." Save Our Shay Historical Preservation Project, Cadillac, MI, 1984.

Hunt, Freeman. "Internal Commerce of the West: Its Condition and Wants, as Illustrated by the Commerce of Michigan, Present and Prospective." "Hunt's Merchant Magazine and Commercial Review." New York, Volume Nineteen, 1848.

Kilar, Jeremy. "Michigan's Lumbertowns: Lumbermen and Laborers in Saginaw, Bay City, and Muskegon, 1870-1905." Wayne State University Press, Detroit, 1990.

Maybee, Rolland H. "Michigan's White Pine Era, 1840-1900." Michigan Historical Commission, Lansing, MI, 1960.

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Lumber has been an important part of Michigan since the earliest European settlements in the 1600s. With the founding of Detroit in 1701 by French explorer Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, there would be a continuous need for the harvesting of white pine and other trees near settled areas. Jumping ahead a century to the creation of the Michigan Territory and the fire that destroyed Detroit the same year, lumber became an even more necessary industry. Surveys of Michigan Territory and after 1837, the State of Michigan, uncovered the true amount of forests that were contained in our state's boundaries, especially those of the pine forests. With the movement of the American population further west to the new Midwest (formerly the "Old Northwest"), including Michigan and the growing city of Chicago, Illinois, there was an even greater need for logging.

This growth of population coinciding with the Michigan land surveys, the development of more efficient technology in both the forest and the saw mills allowed Michigan to become a leader in the lumber industry shortly after the end of the American Civil War.

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Episode Resources:
Ambrose, Stephen E. "Nothing Like It in the World: The Men Who Built the Transcontinental Railroad 1863-1869." Simon and Schuester, New York, 2000.

Dunbar, Willis and George S. May. "Michigan: A History of the Wolverine State." William B. Eerdmans Publishing Company, Grand Rapids, Michigan, 1965 (revised edition 1980).

Hunt, Freeman. "Internal Commerce of the West: Its Conditions and Wants, as Illustrated by the Commerce of Michigan, Present and Prospective." "Hunt's Merchants' Magazine and Commercial Review," New York, Volume Nineteen, 1848.

Maybee, Rolland H. "Michigan's White Pine Era 1840-1900. Michigan Historical Commission, Lansing, Michigan, 1960.

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In this episode, listeners are introduced to the Eastern White Pine (Pinus Strobus). This tree, once rising upwards of 200 feet or more towered over the forests of eastern North America with trunks of six feet diameter. The European settlers to these shores found this tree to have an excellent quality of lumber that was both lightweight to work with and was buoyant to be moved by water from forest to sawmill. Not only was the white pine a valuable economic product for the residents of the New England colonies, but was also valued greatly by the British Empire's Royal Navy for ships masts. In Maine and New Hampshire, the British government restricted use of white pines larger than 24 inches in diameter for use solely by the Royal Navy. This led to protests and riots that helped spur on the American Revolution.

In the 19th century the large amount of white pine found in the Great Lakes Region would contribute to the growth of the Midwest and create economic wealth and industry in the Great Lakes states of Michigan, Minnesota, and Wisconsin. In Michigan alone, the white pine was valued greater than the gold in California by a two to one margin, thus being nicknamed Michigan's "Green Gold."

Besides the lumber industry, the Eastern White Pine has long been sacred to various indigenous people of eastern North America, has been home to wildlife that were important for the fur trade, and has figured prominently in the topics of environmental history with wildfires, reforestation, and climate change. All of these topics and more will be covered in future episodes of the North Country History with Rob Burg podcast.

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Episode Sources:
Ellis, Charles, "Among the Michigan Pines."  The Current. Chicago, 1885, Vol. III

Hotchkiss, "History of the Lumber and Forestry Industry of the Northwest." Chicago, 1898.

Hunt, Freeman. "Internal Commerce of the West: Its Condition and Wants, as Illustrated by the Commerce of Michigan, Present and Prospective." Hunt's Merchant's Magazine and Commercial Review. New York, 1848, Volume Nineteen.

Vietze, Andrew. "White Pine: American History and the Tree that Made a Nation." Globe Pequot, Guilford, Connecticut, 2018.

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In this premier episode of North Country History with Rob Burg, you will meet me, environmental historian Rob Burg, learn of my love of the forests of the Great Lakes region, and why I think there are important stories to be told about these forests. The forests were home to numerous nations of indigenous North American people for centuries. It was the forests that held the wealth of furs that brought European trappers and traders to the Great Lakes in the 17th, 18th, and early 19th centuries. The lumber industry made a giant impact on the Great Lakes forests in the 19th century and this great industry supplied the necessary materials to build a nation. This brought great wealth to the lumber districts in Michigan, Minnesota, Wisconsin in the United States, and also to Ontario, Canada. However with this wealth also came environmental devastation that the region is still recovering from, more than a century later. Following the lumber era, reforestation and conservation have taken root, and this has led to an abundance of forest recreation.  

You can support the podcast by clicking on the "Support" button on the right (Desktop version) or the $ symbol at the top (Mobile version).

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To leave a comment, send me a text here.

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