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It’s Iditarod time! A mere two years after I started this project, the next installment is in. We’re almost to the halfway point! In this episode I talk about where I rested (in the last episode the debate was between Ophir and camping, and it was gonna be cold either way), how the dogs were doing, and what happens when you leave equipment on the trail. I recorded this as we pulled closer to Iditarod, the halfway point of the 2021 race. If you want to imagine what’s going through the musher’s heads as they race this year, this will give you an idea!
Will and the team continue down the trail towards the halfway point of Iditarod, trying to determine if they should stay in Ophir along the way, or stick to the plan and camp further down the trail. Temperatures are dropping and Will is falling asleep– And dreaming standing up.
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Will and the team forge on after their 24 hr layover in McGrath, heading for Ophir and then the halfway point of Iditarod, and into the cold
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Confidence goeth before the fall
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Sometimes part of the journey is napping along the way.
Transcript coming soon
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Buddies receive email updates about their favorite dogs, and up-to-date info about races and events. Check out the updates that Buddies received while Will and the team traveled (and slept) along this part of the trail!
If you want to receive updates like this, find out how here:
Will and the team encounter two new notorious Iditarod obstacles: the Dalzell Gorge and the Farewell Burn.
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Buddies receive email updates about their favorite dogs, and up-to-date info about races and events. Check out the updates that Buddies received while Will was in Finger Lake getting ready for the Steps!
If you want to receive updates like this, find out how here:
Will and the team are fresh off their rest at Finger Lake, and are ready to tackle the Happy River Steps, one of the major obstacles of the race.
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Onward and Other Directions
Episode 4: The Steps
Hi, everybody. Will here. Thanks for tuning in again for Onward and Other Directions, a podcast where my team of Alaskan huskies and I bring you along for our very first Iditarod in recordings I made along the trail. This is episode four. The team and I have started the race. We traveled over rivers for 80 miles, camping once along the way for four hours. We started our climb into the Alaska range, which is the mountain range that Denali, the tallest peak in North America, is part of and rested at Finger Lake, one of the checkpoints along the route. While the dogs rested, I did chores and vet care and chatted to some fellow mushers.
This recording takes place on the run right after we leave Finger Lake. It’s one of my favorite pieces of audio from the entire race. We’re heading towards the checkpoint of Rainy Pass on a beautiful sunny afternoon. This run contains the infamous Happy River Steps, a series of three sharp drops, which have gained acclaim over the years for many crashes and wipeouts. The Steps were one of the two biggest obstacles on the trail that I’ve been thinking about for years, hoping I would be able to drive through them successfully. As I left the finger Lake checkpoint, I knew my moment of truth with this pretty iconic part of Iditarod lore was approaching fast. This recording starts shortly after the beginning of the run.
All right. Am I recording? It’s hard to see. Oh, yep, looks like I am. So we’re on the run to Rainy Pass, which has the infamous Happy River Steps on it somewhere. I keep thinking the next thing is going to be it and then it’s not, or I don’t think it is anyway. I’m pretty sure not. Anyway, every single time I’m like maybe this is it, which is how I’m feeling right now. Ope, there’s a little whoop-dee-doo. See if we can hang on there.
This could be it. I just carved a new path. It’s a pretty snowy year. So I — in theory, I don’t think it’ll be that bad, except there’s probably going to be a big old trench carved out of it. But um, yeah, I don’t really know. I know the steps are these three big drops. That’s all I really know about it. Uh. And it does look like we’re heading towards downhill. We kind of climbed for a while. We’re in this really beautiful trail that crosses the Alaska range. It’s so cool. It feels like we’re out like in Colorado or something like these really big old cottonwoods. And not pine trees, but spruce trees that are like pretty old and tall, not, not the little scraggly friends. Um. And, yeah, the mountains are really just like right in your face and phenomenal, beautiful. So this is really cool to see.
This is the first part of the trail so far that I have not been on, which is really refreshing. That’s something I’ve discovered this year a lot is that I get really uplifted when I’m getting to go on a new trail. I’ve mushed on a lot of different trails in Alaska. And including the first like 120 miles of the Iditarod trail because of a race that used to go up there to the last checkpoint I was just at, Finger Lake. And so all of that trail I’d been on before and you know, for whatever reason, that’s not as… just doesn’t… it’s not as exciting. And it’s also kind of like…
Wow, the mountains are just so cool. I mean it, the mountains look like the Rockies, too. Like Alaska and mountains are definitely different than the Rockies, which I think feel kind of… I’m not sure if this is geologically correct, but I think it seems like they’re older and more like rocky as you might suspect. And this part of the Alaska range that we’re in looks like that, where you’re seeing like the blue, gray exposed rock kind of coming out underneath the snow or between the snow and the… The edges of them are more worn or something. Anyway, just feels like we’re in an older part of the, of the landscape and yeah, and huge trees and these really beautiful tucked away little valleys and brooks and rivers. This is just so cool. I am in hog heaven right now. This is so cool. I am like a kid in a candy store. My mouth is just like agape when I’m not talking to you.
So yeah, being on this new trail has been awesome. Being on the old trail, on trails I’ve been on before I keep looking for landmarks that I know are there, and so I know to expect them, but I don’t know exactly when to expect them. And it ends up being really, like laborious. And so like I know the Finger Lake checkpoint, I know that it’s on a lake and I just keep thinking every corner we come around is going to be on this lake. And it’s not. That’s kind of what I’m doing here. Like expecting the steps any minute. But also, it’s just I’m surrounded by the most gorgeous scenery, and I have never been here before. So it’s so cool. I’m yeah, I just feel transported to a totally magical world.
It’s another beautiful day, which is nice, but it is also hot and sunny. We… So I wanted to leave the checkpoint of Finger Lake at noon. And we ended up leaving a little after one because… And actually I was right on course to leave right at one, but Miss Ophelia decided to be a jerk and go after poor Zenny. Ophelia is in heat, and she’s already kind of a crank. So yeah, when she’s in heat, she becomes extra cranky. And for whatever reason, I mean, Zenny’s not an innocent angel, either. Zenny likes to instigate things. And then it… then she’s sad when it doesn’t, like work out very well for her because people don’t like to put up with it. But um, and by people, I mean dogs. Yeah, Ophelia, for whatever reason, was not happy. So Zenny has a little puncture mark on the top of her head. So the vets were able to help me patch it up. It was really tiny, nothing major, but that held me up for probably another 20 minutes.
And then once we got going, it was kind of another putz putz putz, oh, this, that. I had Belle and Aurora in lead, but Belle has been leading the whole way so far, and I think she’s kind of hitting a little bit of a mental wall. So she was kind of like, all over the place. So I put Rey up there and I had to pee because I decided I didn’t want to wet my pants going down the Happy River Steps. And so and then this, and then somebody got tangled, and you know, so it’s like a bunch of stops, we’re finally kind of moving now. Of course, I have to pee again. But ya know, I had my chance. I mean, I did pee, but like, I’m guessing it’s just nerves. As a trans guy, who has not had bottom surgery — and I’m not really interested in it either — but unfortunately, that means I am, you know, stuck with the traditionally female gendered method of going to the bathroom, which is honestly a big pain in the ass when you’re a musher, because yeah, layers and trying to hold a team of dogs and… It’s a pain. So I shouldn’t talk about this anymore. It’s just making me have to go to the bathroom more. So we should talk about the mountains.
Right now we’re mushing on what looks like a little, maybe like a little slough. And there’s borders of spruce trees all around us. And there’s some hills that are nearby that are pretty significant hills, like I would say probably bigger than anything we have in Fairbanks. And I mean, even just from the level I’m at, I’m… They’re, I’m sure, way above sea level. Oh, I should see what our elevation is. But those trees, those hills have nice, nice trees on them like more deciduous trees. And I’m sure it’s just gorgeous here in the fall too. I think I had said that there are some there were some cottonwoods at the beginning of this route, which was kind of cool. Right now our elevation. Looks like we’ve done a little bit of a climb already. So our elevation is 1,164 feet. And I’m sure we will… nope, 1,165. So it’ll be interesting to see what, how that changes on the Steps. It’s cool because this GPS gives me like a little track so you can kind see the elevation route as we’ve gone. Not very… some little hills, but nothing as, so far nothing as steep as like the Copper Basin or yeah I guess steep is the right word. Part, there’s one way you on the Copper Basin is really steep, and one way you go on the Copper Basin, it’s the same summit but it just takes a really long time to gain the elevation, so it’s kind of like obviously not as steep, but it takes a long time to get up to the top, so.
SCS. I don’t know what there’s trail marker that says SCS, but I don’t know what that means. Could be a club, so in theory there used to be a sign out here on the trail — I think it’s right before the steps — that said watch your ass, and I really wish that sign but I… The… My understanding is that that sign is gone. I could be wrong. Maybe somebody put it back or made a new one but if it’s not here, I wish it was here so that I would know when to watch my ass. I was thinking maybe SCS stood for something like that but I can’t think of what it would be.
Now we’re popping onto kind of a new causeway, maybe like an open field. Yeah, we’re kind of in the base of those rolling hills and right behind that is just peak after peak. So we are going through a Big Valley, I guess. I, I guess this is, I would assume this is Rainy Pass, like all of this and then the, the lodge that we’re going to is Rainy Pass Lodge, but I’m not 100% sure if that’s the case. I wonder if it’s often rainy here. I wonder how accessible this is in the summer, because it’s really cool. But I could also see it being pretty limited, because I, we’re definitely crossing a lot of water and a lot of Alaska has a lot of bogs and marshes or… what they called… not swamps, but we call them swamps sometimes. Anyway, sloughs maybe, but yeah, so it, it can be really difficult to cross those areas in the summer. So behind our house, we have a big slough. And in the winter, that’s our trail actually like our mushing trail. But in the summer, it’s… You, you try to walk it at your own risk, you’re definitely like, I think the definition of a bog is that it’s like floating peat moss or organic material on top of like a body of water, which is what that is out there. I don’t know what the difference between a slough and a bog is. But whatever. One of those things is what’s behind your house. Or both of those things, maybe, if they’re the same. Just biding my time till you can hear me yelling and screaming as we go down the Steps.
I do feel like this is the first time I’m sort of registering that this is the Iditarod, or that this is feeling like that, just with this awesome beauty and a different, different landscape for me. But last night, when it got dark, I did suddenly just, like kind of have this moment of terror where I was like, Oh, no, I have to be alone with myself. I don’t really… I don’t mind being alone, but I’d prefer to be alone with other people. Which is something that I think my family does, we tend to all be in the same house but doing our own thing, but it’s kind of like very comforting and that my poor spouse Shawn has yet to fully grasp the why of it. I think they understand the existence of that desire, but not they don’t really relate to that. But being alone by myself is very difficult for me. I… I…
One time when I was living in Minnesota and I was working in the city, I wanted to get out into nature. I really missed mushing, of course, but I, I just decided I had a three day weekend which was really rare at my job and I decided to go up to the, the area by Lake Superior, like kind of, I guess by Duluth. That would be a point that people would know. So it’s by Duluth, but I think it’s a state park called Jacob State Park. Er, yeah. And I got a little cabin there and I brought my dog and you know, I was just gonna, I like brought my guitar and stuff to make a fire, and you know, I was just gonna go camping and spend some time there.
It was the most uncomfortable thing. It was like being trapped with somebody who you know, but you only talk to in regards to work and outside of work, you hate them. Yeah, sorry. I mean, a big part of my mission is to help people deal with mental health stuff. And yeah, that feeling is definitely part of my mental health… battle? Journey? Not sure a good phrase for it. And I try not to talk too much about that, particularly with like, the word hate. That’s such a strong word, and it doesn’t give any room for grace, I think. But I do have a really hard time basically, like coexisting with myself. I do feel like I’ve gotten to a point of, like, tolerance, and it definitely feels like there’s sort of two entities or, or more than one entity tolerating each other within me. I, not like a multiple personality type of thing, but just these sort of distinct sides and polarized values and thought patterns and whatnot. So that’s something I struggle with and when I have to be alone, especially in nature, where there’s like, nothing to distract me, so you know, no Netflix. Oh, I’m guessing we’re gonna come up to the steps because there’s a bunch of people here filming things.
Some people having a fire in the mountains. I would do that. I don’t think, I thought those were the film people. There’s like a film crew who follows us around, but that was not them, I don’t think. Although they did film me on their phone. My image will be everywhere now.
Yeah, so anyway, self dislike, let’s call it, is something I struggle with and in nature, I cannot distract myself. Particularly when there’s long stretches of time where I’m not, you know, trying to like, invent or solve a puzzle or whatever. And yeah, that’s the definition of mushing. It’s long stretches of time where you’re not like, you can’t do anything but stand there and be with yourself and be with the dogs.
Now, podcasts and music and stuff like makes that, you know, it makes it possible to kind of step away from the being present thing but lately, this year especially, I have been kind of not as interested in listening to podcasts, or another thing I used to do is call people on the phone. And so I definitely would use that to distract myself, and I haven’t been doing that as much this year. I’ve been more desirous to be present with the dogs, I guess. I’m not really thinking about it that way. I just am like content to not be listening to music and be going down the trail and watching the dogs and not, not kind of like, not over complicating it but also not, not spending a lot of time like going in circles in my head about what I’m doing. Like why I’m doing it or not, like, despite me talking about it right now. But yeah, so this year, I think, I guess I would call that like an improvement.
But it also means that, it definitely also means that when it started getting dark last night on the first night of the Iditarod, I realized that I was going to be alone. And in this case, my, you know, my race plan had me camping in the, you know, relative middle of nowhere and again, there’s like snow machines going by and planes and other mushers going down the trail, but definitely different than being in a checkpoint where you’re right next to another musher, and you guys chat, and it’s, that’s a lot more sociable. So I was like, dreading this camping last night. I guess. Luckily, it wasn’t too existential because I didn’t really have time for it to be I was trying really hard to be on my clock for hours. And I think I relatively succeeded.
Alright, now I’m convinced this is it. I feel like I recognize the trees here from some videos and slides I’ve seen. Mm, I don’t know, maybe not. But yeah, the camp actually was kinda a nice tonight. I actually slept and I was really warm. Even though it did drop down to zero. I’ve slept in my sleeping bag before. And it’s been like real cold. Okay, pretty sure this is it. Yeah. Easy. Nice and easy. Nice and easy. We’re going down this big trench. Okay, that has to have been one of them. So I’m gonna guess there’s gonna be a couple more. I mean, I think I think I said this already, but since it’s such a high snow year, it’s like, not as bad as it definitely, I’m sure it can be. Because you, I think one of them at least you can just kind of fall right off. That wasn’t too bad. It’s definitely trenched out and it’s gonna be a pain in the ass to get back up. So we have to go back up this stuff this year, because you know, we’re coming back. So the, the hills get trenched out by the, by brakes. And so there’s just like, I mean, as you can imagine this deep, basically like 20 inch wide trench that your sled hopefully slots right into, because if it doesn’t, then you got one runner up on the edge and you’re basically going down, like kind of sideways, and when you’re in that trench, you don’t have much for your brake to grab onto.
Now we’re in this, we’re going through kind of like this small winding trail that’s in the bottom of a really tiny little. What would you call this? I don’t know, kind of like a little valley or gorge or something? Seems like it’s probably following a riverbed. So I guess maybe this might be the Happy River. I also don’t know what the Happy River of Happier River Steps is. Oh, I just had somebody behind me. The dogs were barking. This would be an annoying place to pass.
My impression was that these were close together. So maybe that was not one of them. I don’t know.
All I want is the Watch Your Ass sign.
Okay, seems like we’re coming up on maybe another drop, so. Yeah, this is definitely some kind of a drop. Doesn’t look very steep right now. But maybe famous last words. I think this is, I think this might be… Easy, nice and easy. Nice and easy. Nice and easy. In the trench. This cannot be, so beautiful. Nice and easy. So I train the dogs to try to go really slow down hills. Not, not for my sake. I mean, you know, that’s nice. But the big thing is, you know, have you ever run downhill? Like it’s a good way to twist an ankle, and the dogs are just totally free fall, run as fast as they can. And that’s a good way for them to get a, you know, wrist injuries or shoulder injuries. So we try to go really easy on the hills, and they’re really good at that, actually they’ll… as long as I have some resistance on the brake, they will actually walk down the hill, which is pretty great, so.
I feel like this is gonna be like what they say about porn. You can’t define it, but you know it when you see it. Like I feel like I’m gonna look back at those two drops. I just did and be like, “Oh, those were not it,” but I think I will know when it’s done because I don’t know if they’ll have it now but sometimes they keep an Iditarod Insider, the video people, crew at the bottom of, I would assume, the last one. So that would be helpful.
You know, I just going down this trail, depending on what it all ends up looking like I, I feel like if I didn’t know about these famous steps, it wouldn’t, I would just be going down this trail like it’s… I wish it was something that you didn’t know about til after you were done. And then people would be like, oh, yeah, those drops. Oh, that was wild, right? You didn’t hear about it in advance. Anticipation is such a anxiety-producing thing. I don’t feel anxious, but I feel… Hm, what’s the word? I guess I feel like compulsive or something like I just want to know. It’s fine. I just want to know what the, if we’re done with that part of the trail, and then I can just relax and enjoy the rest, so I guess it sounds like I’m anxious. Don’t feel anxious. I guess I’m used to a different kind of an anxious feeling. Now that I’m telling myself I’m anxious, I am feeling slightly anxious, but I decided I don’t need to feel anxious. Maybe that’ll be famous last words. I’m shocked at how calm I’ve felt through this whole thing, the, the start day and everything. I just thought I’d be absolutely out of my mind, but I think that I was so stressed out the two weeks before, trying to finish building my sled that the start day felt really easy and nice. Darnit. I saw some snow I thought could be the Watch Your Ass sign.
I think I learned about that sign when I was a kid and Martin showed us a slideshow of his Iditarod. And it had that sign on it. And I think, I bet that that as kids we were like, haha, that’s so funny. So really, I guess stuck with me. But I mean also useful, like good instructions, right? Something exciting is happening. Pretty sure it’s some birds. It’s springtime. Birds are flitting around, picking up things. I don’t know if they’re building nests or right, what right now but they’re doing something. They’re very active. They’re tweeting. Tweet tweet! You’re welcome for demonstrating that.
I think the dogs are enjoying this trail, too. It’s pretty wind-y and they like that. Lots of new things to see around every single corner and I bet lots of cool smells with all the trees. We’re, right now we’re kind of we’re winding through a bunch of really old tall spruce trees, like old spruce, I, I guess this would be white spruce. I don’t know. I’m not a tree doctor, or whatever. That would be a tree-entist. But I do like trees, and these trees are very pretty.
Good dogs. We’re gonna come up on the Steps at some point.
In the Iditarod Insider videos, they, they always do a, I guess a documentary each year or whatever. And there’s a guy who narrates all of them. And he’s got a very like… “In a world” voice. [Dramatically] “The Happy River Steps, three winding drops in consecutive order that have taken out many a sled.” [Normally] Like I think they tried to make it extra dramatic if they can.
And definitely people have been pretty seriously injured here. Rick Swenson, I think it was Rick Swenson probably like a decade ago by now, fell down. It was a really, I think it was really a slow snow year and he came down the steps and like bounced off of a couple trees like a ping pong ball, and it was, they filmed it, and it was. Yeah, he broke his ribs and he continued. He finished Iditarod, which is just wild, but yeah, there’s definitely potential to get hurt.
I do kind of wish — this is maybe the first time I really cared about this — but I do kind of wish I was wearing a helmet maybe, because I’m not, one, I’ve decided it’s pretty hot. It’s like 27 degrees, so I decided not to wear my parka. And the one downside about that. So the upside is I have a lot more kind of like maneuverability, which is good. The downside is I don’t have the padding, so that is definitely a con. But hopefully I won’t eat shit. So we’ll see. At least there seems like there’s a lot of snow to fall on. I will try to avoid falling on trees.
A few weeks back, before the Copper Basin, I did a run where I ended up getting kind of lost and I had to come back down a trail that is not a good idea to come down and, in order to get home, and it has a lot switchbacks, so going downhill on switchbacks. I mean, I think you can kind of imagine it can be pretty tricky. It can take some pretty good driving, but even the best driving can get pretty slammed by switchbacks, which I think that that, the steps are supposed to have switchbacks. I don’t know. Anyway.
So yeah, I headed down this trail that I knew was gonna be a bad idea. I had the whole team. I decided to try to just like make it happen. Okay. Okay, now I think this is a Step. Maybe this is either the first one or the last one. Anyway, on that particular adventure… Easy, easy, nice and easy. There you go. Good. Nice and easy. Nice and easy. This is definitely one of them, because I’ve seen footage of it. So maybe that was the first one and then we’re coming around another corner. Anyway on that other switchback at home, the very first one, I went around a corner and the sled just flew out and I, man, I slammed into a tree and let go the sled because my body slammed into a tree. Basically, I caught the tree around my stomach, which was better than the head, but. Anyway, hopefully I’m not jinxing myself, because we’re definitely going down again. Nice and easy. Woohoo! Easy. Oh, good dogs. Oh, oh, did we get a little tangle?
Okay, that was definitely one of them. I mean, I don’t know how they’re distinguishing these. That was much more of a straight up and down. I’m guessing this is the more tricky one. Yeah, that you could just fall off the edge of. Whoo. Yeah. Nice and easy, guys. Hey. Easy. Easy. There you go. Good. Well, we’re walking it. Nice and easy. Hey, nice and easy. There you go.
I mean, this is like a lot of fun for dogs. Flying down the hills. That’s gonna suck to go up. Here we have a switchback. Speak of the devil. Which you get a whip your sled around the corner and hopefully don’t fly off the hill. There you go. Nice and easy. Nice and easy. Easy. Easy. Nice and easy. Nice and easy. Ope, had a little tree to avoid. Maybe that was the first one? Heck if I know. That was definitely a bigger one. That one that we went down was 100% one of them, though, because I’ve seen a lot of footage of that. Oh, here we go.
Easy easy, easy, easy. Easy. Easy. Easy. Whoa, whoa. You know it was actually doing pretty good, except one of the snow hooks got… Whoa. Good dogs.
I think this is where they usually camp out. Nobody came here to fill me so rude. One of the snow hooks got caught underneath the sled, which is no bueno because… [The dogs start whining because they’ve stopped moving forward while Will looks for the snow hook.] Where is that snow hook. Huh. Okay. It’s buried itself… oh, there it is. Okay. Just move the sled over. The dogs are ready for more.
Alright, good dogs. So one of my snow hooks bounced out and went underneath the sled. Which obviously is not ideal. I’m insulted that they weren’t here to film me. Um.
Whoohoo! Good dogs. Whoohoo.
Yeah, if you have a snow hook so the snow hooks are our little anchors that, so they’re not little but, are anchors that you, they’re claws that you stomp into the snow, and it holds the team back. It’s pretty amazing. They’re very strong. Also very sharp. Oh cool. We’re going by some open water here. Beautiful. Anyway obviously if that goes under the sled, I mean you can imagine, like it’s connected by a rope to the team in the front. As you could probably guess, there’s a lot of, there is a lot of ways that could get tangled. Speaking of tangles, Miss Marnie’s neck line came undone. Whoa, good dogs! You guys did good. Oh, good job, you guys. Professionals. Yeah, oh, good dogs.
We’re definitely gonna be pushing the sled up the hill on that last one. Alright. These guys don’t want to take a break. It’s good that this valley is a little bit more shaded, because we’re not really getting beaten down by the sun.
Good! Did you guys have fun? Did you like that? Was that fun? Oh, it was? It was? Oh yeah. Good job. Oh, you want some more? Okay. Oops, don’t go over there. [Dogs yipping and crying excitedly] Sundance, your neck line always comes undone, doesn’t it? Yeah. You’re Miss Tangle Tangle. No, now you’re stuck there. That’s the side you’re gonna go on. That’s the side you’re gonna stay on. Come here. Let’s see if that works better. Good job, you guys. Oh, happy dogs. Happy dogs. Happy hot dogs. Oh, you want some more, Annie? You want some more? They’re hot but happy. And the sled is still apparently in one piece. By all accounts. You guys ready? Alright. Next stop is the Rainy Pass checkpoint.
Wow. Super beautiful. Wonder if I can take a picture while I’m recording. I think I can. Surely I must be able to. Oops.
Beautiful. I see someone camped here. Wow cool. Man, this is so stud. Alright, let’s see. See how far we’ve gone so far. I think it’s supposed to have been 35 miles to Rainy Pass. I’m guessing we’ve only gone like 15 miles? 12 miles? We went up and then we went down. 10 miles. Yeah. I think that’s what they, that’s where they said the steps were. I guess I wrote that down but didn’t realize what it meant. I just wrote 10 miles after Rainy Pass. I didn’t really have a good description for myself. Oh.
Interesting. We’re crossing a weird bridge. Like not a bridge, but like a, almost like a dam someone made? Like a. I don’t know. I don’t know what to think about that. If that’s a people made thing or it just happened. Oh, now we’ve gotta run up some hills. Alright, well. I guess you’re going to get to hear– Oh, the dogs are really excited. I might not have to run up. They’re enjoying the beauty as much as I am. Oh, here we go. I guess we get to go down this on the way back. This will be the anti-Steps. There are some helpful markers that say don’t go off the trail. Oh, it says SCS again. I wonder what that means.
Alright, let’s go, guys. Up, up, up. Let’s go. Let’s go. Alright. Alright. We’re going up a pretty good little hill here. I’m running in my mushing boots. Alright. Alright. [Will whistles to the dogs]
So we have a rule. There’s no stopping on hills. Alright. Up up up. Let’s go. Otherwise, they will stop when things slow down. So we don’t stop.
The worst part about running with the sled is your arms get really tired. Because you have to like hold the sled back or hold yourself up to the sled. And it’s like really unnatural. So previously, I’ve set up something where I can basically connect myself with a like a skijor belt and then just lean back. That works so much better. And I had hoped to have that this year, but I ran out of time. But this hill will be over soon. Famous last words.
That’ll be fun to go down, but not as, I don’t think as intense as the ones we just got done with. Good dogs. It looks like this is a road, maybe, and that’s what that bridge thing looked like, like somebody made a road. How weird, though, cause I don’t know where it would go to. I guess maybe it’s for Rainy Pass Lodge? I’m not sure. Or it could be a trail system? Could be for BLM, I guess. It’s very wide, though. It feels like we’re on like a dirt road.
Huh. Apparently we are not supposed to go that way. Gee. Good. Good dogs. Ugh. More hills. Gee. Good. We’re overdressed for this. Then again, so are the dogs.
Yeah sorry you’re listening to this, I, I’m going to turn it off as soon as I can spare a hand, I guess. Oh, good dogs. Easy there. Good dogs. Good dogs.
There’s an airplane. I’m guessing coming or going from either Rainy Pass or McGrath. I am… Probably Rainy Pass. So it’s pretty popular for tourists to go up there and spectate the race. Trying to decide if I, if I want to stay in Rainy Pass, or if I want to try to push on. The idea in pushing on being to try to hit the gorge, which is the next and probably, teah, one of, the next big obstacle before, to hit that before it gets dark. But I might be pushing. I don’t know. I’m not sure how far it is until that. I guess my plan is I’ll ask at the checkpoint and then make my decision based on the time.
If I do stay I’m only going to stay for a couple hours because it’ll be better to… I mean if it’s too late for me to get to the gorge by daylight, then it’s going to be too late no matter what time I leave at, because it’s, I mean it’s gonna be dark when I do it, no matter what, but if it is early enough, then maybe it’s worth going. Otherwise, I will stay at Rainy Pass for like, probably just a couple hours and then try to take advantage of running in the night time. My goal had been to get to Rainy Pass by like three or four when it was the hottest but yeah, that ship definitely sailed.
We are off that road and onto more of a trail again and winding through the woods, so. You’re stuck with me for just a little while longer until I know what’s coming around the corner. So we should see what time it is. It might be time to give the dogs a snack. Pretty soon.
Nala, come on. Nala and Ophelia are both trying to chase a squirrel up a tree. Goofballs.
So I’m getting to the phone so I can turn the recording off before I say the closing words. So wise. So yeah, well thanks for, thanks for hanging out. Glad we could do the Steps together. Alright. Onward.
If you enjoyed this episode of Onward and Other Directions, tell your friends. There are miles to go before we sleep and plenty of episodes ahead. To see pictures from this section of trail, access a transcript of the episode, and to see the social media updates the ATAO away team was sending to buddies at this part of the race. Visit ATAO kennel.com. That’s ATAOKENNEL dot com. See you next time on Onward and Other Directions. The next part of the trail ahead is another major obstacle, the Dalzell Gorge, which I end up running in the dark. See you there. Onward.
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Will shares some stories of the journey from his first run to Finger Lake, and then records audio in the checkpoint itself. Runaway dogs, exciting trail snacks, and inexplicable gatorade-flavored meals.
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Onward and Other Directions
Episode 3: Finger Lake
Hi, it’s Will again. Last time we were here, I had just taken off on the very first leg of my very first Iditarod, one of the longest sled dog races in the world. Me and my team of 14 dogs, AKA my best friends recorded some audio about halfway into that very first run. I rambled about a lot of things. My poor spouse, Shawn, who is very logical, is at wit’s end trying to keep track of all these conversations, and I got passed by several teams.
For that first run, I stuck to my game plan pretty tightly. Shortly after the recording I made, my team and I pass through Yentna station, the first sort of checkpoint of the race. It’s a “sort-of” checkpoint because there are no drop bags there. Drop bags are the bags that are flown ahead of teams down the trail. There is no way a sled could carry the amount of food that sled dogs eat during a race like this.
We packed and mailed about 1200 pounds for this race, and we were very much on the light side of what folks normally pack. Most of that weight is kibble and meat. The dogs eat around 10,000 calories a day while they race. Other supplies that are sent in drop bags or things like blankets to make the dogs cozy at the checkpoints while they rest, human meals and snacks, batteries, gloves, vet supplies, and much more.
While Yentna Station did not have bags, it did provide straw and heet — HEET — better known as antifreeze. We burn that in specially made cookers to melt snow and boil water for the dog’s food. It’s an essential component of long-distance mushing. The Iditarod provides heat along the whole trail, including Yentna. As my race plan dictated, I grabbed both straw and heet in Yentna.
I was a little surprised to see how close to the start Yentna it was. It registered on my GPS is only 40 miles or so from the start line. According to what the race had told us, it ought to have been about 50 miles. I wondered if Skwentna, the first official actual checkpoint, would really be 72 miles as it was predicted to be.
Regardless, my race plan called for me to camp around or just after 50 miles. I debated continuing all the way to Skwentna.
I talked in the first recording about how warm the first day was. But by the time I hit Yentna, the sun was starting to set, and the temperature was dropping. The dogs were much happier to have some cooler weather and were starting to move well. Its 72-mile run wouldn’t be entirely out of their wheelhouse. But the whole reason for my plan to camp before Skwentna was to avoid the notorious hullabaloo that happens with the whole field of mushers camped at the first checkpoint. I wanted the dogs to get a nice rest. Plus, with COVID restrictions in place, it sounded like I’d be sleeping next to my sled either way. I’d much rather do that in a camping setting alone on the side of the trail versus a checkpoint where teams would be coming and going with a lot of commotion.
One of the key elements of strategy of a race like the Iditarod is determining when and where to rest, and for how long. I had laid out my race plan. It was a slightly ballsy strategy, I was aiming to do a lot of long runs. The reason I was aiming for this was the performance of the team this season, and what they seemed to be excelling at. It was the long runs where they were shining, so I decided to take the best advantage of that that I could. My speed would be consistent if I was lucky.
I aimed for eight to nine miles per hour the whole race. On our first run, it was a little less than that because of the sunny slog through the middle of the day. The only other major factor was seeing how long to rest. My plan aimed for four and six hour rests. The first dress we’d take would be a four hour rest at our 50 mile camp. It had gotten dark by the time we found a place to camp just around 50 miles. We were able to snag a nice pull off made by a snow machine that veered off the trail. I started my clock for the countdown of when we’d leave.
During a break, the dogs rest and eat, but the musher works. This is the time that the musher becomes actually useful to the team. I did my best to maintain efficiency as I pulled off dog booties, laid out straw for the dogs to bed down on, put coats on everyone so they’d stay warm and snuggly, and prepared and fed dinner to the dogs. I put one of my own vacuum sealed meals — I think it was a calzone — into the water as it heated up and scarfed down my own dinner between chores.
I checked everyone’s feet, meticulously noting previously known sores or concerns. Generally everyone looked good. Belle and Cassidy had sore feet, so I treated them with special ointments. Taking care of the dog’s feet is one of the number one most important parts of a long race like this.
I was able to get my work done with enough time to get an hour of sleep myself. It was somewhere around 11pm or midnight by the time I laid down and I set my phone alarm for one hour with my watch as a backup. I pulled off my boots and crawled into my negative 40 sleeping bag.
My thermometer said it was about negative 11. I fell asleep almost immediately. I woke up on time and started my pre-exit chores. Part of what I had to do was shorten the gang line. I had set up the gang line, which connects all the dogs together, with two open spots. But sometimes the team didn’t seem to run as well with the extra space. So I decided to take a section out. The best way to do that was from the front. I removed the leader section and shuffled dogs around, I decided that sisters Belle and Aurora would be a good choice to lead the next leg. I switched them to be next to each other and connected them to a part of the line further back as I removed one section of the gang line to make the setup have no extra spaces anymore.
As I made the final touch to the new configuration, Aurora and Bell decided that this was the signal to go and headed down the trail. Somehow I connected them to each other but not to anything else. Sometimes this happens with sled dogs, and every time I’ve seen it, the dogs go running off side by side like they are in the team, but the team is just them. That’s what the two sisters did.
Part of the training that we do in the summer is called free play, where we let the dogs run loose and play with each other. This is a very important component of training for a lot of reasons. But this particular situation is a good example. I wasn’t worried that the dogs would disappear. I was confident they’d be back once they realized the rest of the pack hadn’t gone with them down the trail. I had to affix the line back down in front so that the rest of the team wouldn’t get tangled.
I kept looking down the dark trail to see if Aurora and Belle were on the way back yet, but I didn’t see them. I was calling for them every now and then whistling happily to let them know where I was, but not chasing them. I started to feel nervous that they’d gotten it in their heads to get to the next checkpoint, or that something else was happening around the bend in the trail. Just as I was about to give up, the two goofy sisters came careening back down the trail as if to say, “Where the heck are you? Let’s go!” They didn’t come towards the camping team but took the main trail running by us, towards the start line, almost showing off.
Suddenly, behind my sled, I saw a light. A musher was coming and now Aurora and Belle were running right at the oncoming team. I dove off our snow machine track where we were camping and into the deep snow between there and the trail. With three huge steps, I made it to the trail and — calling both happily and frantically — managed to convince Aurora and Belle to come say hi. I snatched them off the trail just as the other team shuttled by. Whoops!
I got Aurora and Belle, who were both very proud of themselves back into the team. I think I put them back in lead. Heck, they had already scouted out a lot of the trail.
I bootied the dogs, which is another of the most important jobs of a musher. We hit the trail in the dark and only 12 miles later we were in Skwentna. We were only at mile 61. The leap from 61 miles to 72 miles is a bit bigger than you might think. Especially since I didn’t want to stop in Skwentna. Had I known the checkpoint was only a mile 60 I would have planned to camp just after sweat not it would have meant I could have carried less than my sled on the way to our first camp because I would have been able to just grab supplies from my drop bags from Skwentna itself. My plan called for me to grab supplies there and straw and to camp a few miles outside of Finger Lake. Since Skwentna was earlier than expected, if Finger Lake was at the projected mile marker, it would mean carrying straw at least 10 miles further than I expected. I was also already learning that without a tail dragger — in other words, a section of the sled behind where I stand on the runners, which a lot of mushers used as a seat — carrying straw was difficult at best. I knew from past races that the climb up to Finger Lake was more technical than river trails. All of this information flashed through my brain as I pulled into the checkpoint of Skwentna.
The checkers were happy to see me and announced that I was the last musher in that stung my pride a little bit, and I had to remind myself that I was sticking to my plan. And that of course I was the last musher in, having been passed quite a bit and having camped before the checkpoint. I think they thought I was staying but I let them know that I was passing through. I was happy to see that there were other mushers in the checkpoint, which meant, once I passed, I wouldn’t be holding up the rear.
The checkers directed me to the drop bags. I loaded up the stuff I’d need for the next two runs. Finger Lake was like Yentna; there would be no drop bags there. That meant I had to carry enough food for two stops, plus the runs in between, at least according to my race plan. I evaluated quickly as I loaded up my sled with dog food. It was feeling rapidly clear that carrying straw to camp before Finger Lake seemed like it was going to be a pain. I confirmed with the checkers. Even though there wouldn’t be drop bags at Finger Lake, they’d have straw and heat, right? The checkers confirmed it, and I adjusted my plan. I’d go all the way to Finger Lake and make my campsite there. That way I wouldn’t be carrying straw through the technical sections. Then I continued to Rainy Pass, which was part of my plan already. The big change would be stopping in Finger Lake.
With my sled loaded up with supplies, utilizing the straw right where it was at was going to be the best move for me now. I closed my sled and thank the volunteers at Skwentna and headed off down the trail.
The mush from Skwentna to Finger Lake was quicker than I expected. I had run it a few times during the Northern Lights 300 and in that race, this leg had felt like a real climb. The route may have been slightly different than what I’d done before, or the dogs may have just been so conditioned to climbing from the season that they didn’t slow at all. But this time I barely noticed a climb. Once we got to where I was looking for Finger Lake itself, I kept expecting the checkpoint around every corner. The checkpoint sits on the other end of a lake that you emerge onto out of a narrow band of trees. Every band of trees we passed, I was sure I would see Finger Lake Winter Lodge, but to no avail. It was only when I had more or less given up expecting to see the checkpoint at all that we crossed onto the lake and saw the checkpoint ahead of us.
I was surprised to see a lot of teams in tents. Since there were not going to be drop bags, I expected that the checkpoint itself would be very sparse. Instead, there was a full contingent of vets and a lot of mushers still resting. The dog started barking excitedly knowing that the teams and tents meant breakfast and a nap. We checked in and were parked next to two other rookies. I planned to be there for just a short four hour rest.
There were a few dogs who were ready for some TLC. Cassidy was feeling a little sore, and I wanted to go over everyone’s feet even more closely. With full daylight I figured I wouldn’t sleep and instead spent my time repacking my sled and checking to make sure my various technical things were working. I spoke with an Anchorage Daily News reporter Zachariah Hughes, who started the Iditapod podcast. I also talked with my neighboring rookies. When Chad Stoddard, a rookie who was running a team of Lance Mackey’s dogs, was ready to take off, he asked me to stand on his brakes so that the team wouldn’t leave without him. This recording starts as I am standing on his brake.
We’re at Finger Lake, and I’m standing on the brake of Chad Stoddard, who is running Lance Mackey’s team, and he’s bootying. His dogs are a strong team, so he asked if I could stand on it. So this is the sound of a checkpoint. One noisy dog. That musher is picking up their stuff to pass through so that’s why that dog is ready to go; they probably just camped not far away.
Pretty soon Chad’s team’s gonna start getting noisy cause they’ll know it’s time to go.
I’m making notes about the condition of dogs. And then it’s going to be time to get going because I’m hoping to leave at noon and it’s 10:41 right now. I’m basically going to pick up my stuff, pack my sled, and hopefully hit the road. It’s gonna probably take me a minute though.
I didn’t record on my last run. It was cold, and I was really tired. I definitely fell asleep a lot. The sunlight will help.
The next run we’ve got to do is the Happy River Steps, which is one of the big obstacles of the race, so. We’ll see what it’s like. Hopefully not too crazy.
Alright. Time to get the show on the road.
One of the few things I forgot was a, was my water bottle. [Someone responds with a question, and Will answers] Yeah, I mean I have like bottled water that I sent ahead, but. Yeah. [The other speaker responds inaudibly.]
Who’s so cute? Is it you? Are you also so cute? How about you? Are you cute? Who do you wanna lead with, Buddy? Good job! Try another one? Did you like that? Here you go. Here, you can have two. Gross.
Come back next week to hear a recording from the trail between Finger Lake and Rainy Pass, one of the more notoriously technical sections of trail. This is where the Happy River Steps are, and also my favorite section of the race this year. Subscribe to Onward and Other Directions on Apple Podcasts or wherever you get your pods. You can find me on Twitter at A T A O Kennel or check out our website at A T A O Kennel dot com. See you next time. Onward.
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The race begins! Will talks to us about the oddity of finally being on the Iditarod. The team is passed… A few times! The phone is put into a precarious position.
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Onward and Other Directions
Episode 2: Trail!
Hi, I’m Will. I live with 28 dogs and together we travel across the winter landscape of Alaska. They run and I hang on to a rickety sled behind them. Our team is called ATAO Kennel. This is Onward and Other Directions, a podcast where I take you along our first Iditarod through recordings I made throughout the race in March of 2021. The Iditarod is one of the longest sled dog races in the world. And I’ve been working towards running it since I started mushing in the year 2000.
This episode is the first recording on the race. The team and I have left the starting line and are on our way. We’re traveling along wide braided rivers towards Skwentna, the first resupply checkpoint in the race. We will actually end up stopping to camp about 10 miles before Skwentna at mile 50 of the race as part of our race plan. This recording is a few hours into the run and a few hours before we camp. [Musical transition]
All right. Are we recording? I can’t tell Oh, looks like it. All right. Well, we’re a couple hours into the Iditarod. Maybe I’ll throw in some cool audio from the start. I really didn’t have the capacity to record then. Also, I have no idea how these recordings are gonna sound. They could just totally be garbage. But I gotta keep having to stop and wave at people. A lot of people were on the river still, that we’ll be on for, uh, another like, well, like a total of 80 miles basically. Er, yeah, about 80 miles, I think. And then, um, and then we’ll finally kind of head up into the mountains, but. Yup. Still on the river and there’ve been a lot of snowmachiners and families and little camps waving us on.
Whoa.
You moved faster than I thought.
You guys ready?
And, uh, I’m sure you can hear the plane noise. [To someone else] Thank you.
Thank you. Thank you.
It is… It’s really weird to see so many people when you’re mushing. And I’m guessing
Anyway, I feel kinda silly that I didn’t hear Aaron calling trail. He gave me some really good advice about nutrition, but um. Anyway. When you call trail, the other person’s supposed to stop and pull over. Which I did, as soon as I realized, um, what was going on. I thought it was somebody else yelling, cause we were kind of in so much commotion there. It’s a really hot day. It finally started to cool off a little bit, but when we left it was in the high 20s, and the sun was just beating down, and these guys have not really been running at that kind of a temperature. We did do a run, the last run we did ended up in the 20s, but, I mean, that’s just like not been our norm. So, um, I feel like they’re moving just a little bit slower.
I also made the mistake of, um, uh, they had kind of a bigger meal before we took off, which I didn’t intend for them to have, and, um, they probably should have just had like a broth. So we did our first snack stop and they were like, eh, I’m good.
Anyway, these guys are moving slow. But it’s hard because I mean, notoriously this first leg, you really want to go fast. So maybe it’s kind of a blessing in disguise that it’s a little hotter. And these guys don’t really want to move as fast. Because ideally, we’re going between eight and nine miles on this first leg, average. And that’s exactly where we are. In fact, we’re actually on the high side of that a little bit. When I check on my GPS to see our speed. We keep being kind of above nine, which is a little faster than I want to go. So
I have to keep slowing them down. Everybody else. I mean, like a lot of the other mushers that we’re passing are, um, going pretty fast, so it’s uh, it’s definitely a weird comparison, like Aaron is gone already. He’s like, he flew by us. And he’s going forward. I mean, he’s probably going like, I don’t know, 11… 10 or 11 miles per hour. And because this race is so different, a lot of people might end up going faster for the whole thing. Because it’s quite a bit shorter. But um
I didn’t put my gaiter on because it’s so hot this morning. So my neck is kind of cold now. Alright. Alright, come on, Belle. Go! Alright. Alright. Let’s go.
Good, good girls. There you go. We’ve got Belle and Rey in lead, who are really great, steady pair, Rey is just three. And she’s kind of she really started leading mostly last year. She’s a great leader, she’s really smart. But she is still learning some things. And one of the things she still needs to keep practicing is pooping and running at the same time when she’s in the front of the team. Because it is a little bit more tricky, uh, um, so that’s what she was trying to do just there, and, um, yeah, Belle had to kind of help her keep going forward. because ideally, they poop and run at the same time. I mean, they– it’s pretty amazing. When I’ve done tours, or whatever, with sled dogs, and I feel like that’s probably the most amazing, or that’s the thing that amazes the tourists the most is that they poop and run at the same time. They’re really good at it.
So. If we stopped every time they pooped, we would not go very, very far. You know, one thing that’s been, I don’t know, kind of a telltale thing on this beginning leg already is that, um, when I first started mushing dogs, I used to think that, like, okay, I’ll give ’em a break, you know, every couple miles, cause they’re gonna like that, like I would like a break if I was running, every couple miles, but then I did actually start myself running, like distance running, and I realized that, if you stop every couple miles, you like lose all of your momentum, and it just turns into a crappy run. So the best thing, ideally, is, um, is actually to, um, to keep going and try to stop as little as possible.
So, right now, we’re — even though it feels like we’re kind of moving slow, and we don’t necessarily have total forward momentum, like, the dogs are a little bit, like, kind of distracted. They see another team, and they like yeah! They’re hot, definitely, really hot. Which is another reason to keep ’em slow, you know, not try to push ’em really hard in this hot weather, um, but, again, like that’s part of our strategy is to stay slow, stay in that middle range and then keep in the middle range. Like that’s our, that’s our goal.
But anyway, yeah, the dogs are kind of like a little all over the place. I mean, which is totally understandable. It’s like… it’s a new experience, it’s uh. There’s a lot going on. I mean, like you heard all those machines, there’s birds, we’re on a totally different trail that all of them except for Emmy have been on, so it’s uh. Yeah, this is a whole new world, for sure. And um, so. Yeah. I guess I’m kind of distracted, too, which I’m sure is adding to that energy, because I can’t remember why I was talking about being distracted, but, um, hopefully even though we don’t — I think I was saying, even though we don’t have that forward drive necessarily, we um. I mean, they’ve got the drive. We’re going forward. Um.
Oh, I was talking about making all the stops, even though, yeah, like their energy is kind of like all over the place, stopping every few miles, which I was doing, because for a couple reasons, one, because they were hot, and I really wanted them to be able to get snow and roll in the snow, cool off a little bit. But two, because you know, it’s at the beginning of a race, you ended up getting passed by a lot of teams. I’m right- I was- I started basically right in the middle. So I [had] 20 teams behind me. And
yeah, I think I’ve been passed now by almost 10 of them. I don’t know if you can hear that background noise. But it’s the, uh, it is the it’s snow machines like racing up and down this river. And I just for some context, the river is probably like, I don’t know. It’s hard to tell without like perspective, but like half a football field, the football field wide, something like that. Huge, it’s really wide. These rivers in Alaska are like really, really wide, sprawling rivers. So the snow machines are also on the river, but they’re, they’re really far away from us. But yeah, so anyway, I did kind of like, run into that thing of stopping many times. And I do think that that kind of added to the distraction factor and the, the not feeling kind of in as forward of a motion factor. I do think that they also kind of get bummed out when they get passed over and over, which does tend to happen because we do run a slower pace.
I know I get bummed out. And it’s really hard for me to kind of battle the competitiveness, about that. But I have to keep in mind that we’ve got a long game ahead of us. And, you know, we’re not going 10 miles an hour right now, for a reason. We’re conserving energy, we’re conserving strength, we’re conserving, you know, dog power. And, you know, if you are able to keep a good slow pace, in my experience, you prevent a lot more injuries. The pace, the slow pace is a trot. So it’s kind of like an easier gait than a lope, where they’re actually putting more impact on especially their front feet more, but I mean, you know, there’s a lot there’s more nuance to it. But yeah, like kind of towards the end of when we were last doing more stops when we stopped, they would definitely kind of like, “Ahhhh! I want to go!”
So they– it’s there, it’s just kind of like that energy is, is being kind of distracted. I think I’m gonna be happy when we get off the river where all these people are. And, you know, it’s not necessarily like these people are all here for Iditarod or anything. It’s this is just a big recreation area. There’s a snow machine coming. You’re gonna hear it come by us. Oh, maybe not. No, there it is. It’s pretty quiet until that part, but… And luckily, the dogs are doing really well with that. I mean, they haven’t seen a lot of this. Now another plane is coming by, it’s taking off. Or landing. I can’t tell what’s going on. Actually. It’s doing one of those things. I think it’s taking off. No, no, I don’t know what it’s doing. It’s just like coasting real close to the river. It’s um, ski planes. That’s what a lot of people have. Right. Well, I mean, that’s, I think the… Well, no, I did see some planes with wheels, I guess. So I think if you land on the hard pack that yes, that works. But yeah, mostly ski planes right now. A lot of aircraft. It’s interesting. I mean, we’re down in a way more populated area than where we’re from. So it Yeah, it’s just different. Warmer, more populated. I’ll be excited to go home. [Laughs.]
The dogs are doing good. So I ended up picking. I ended up picking the old dogs like I think I had kind of talked about before and so no Mungry and Link, which is really strange. I mean, I’m really bonded to those dogs. I think I’d said that I whelped them. They’re the first dogs who I like, helped to birth and– All right, I think someone’s Oh, they’re either filming us or taking a picture. They got the old GoPro. I… I have a GoPro actually I have two from some awesome friends of the kennel but… They… Man, it is really a wild strain on my– self to try to get a GoPro happening. It’s like, I don’t know why, it just is like, really taps into my ADHD. And yeah, it’s like so difficult to get it set up. I don’t know, it’s just like goofy but I think what I need to do is get a thing on my sled so I can just like stick it on there…
Uh, that plane’s landing. This isn’t even the busy part. This is like pretty quiet compared to where we were.
But um, yeah, I think if I could just stick a GoPro there, then I would not have to worry. I think putting it on my body is really difficult. It’s also like, kind of tricky because like if you want to put it on your head, then you have like this extra weight on your head and you’re already probably wearing a headlamp. So that’s awkward. So that’s weird. And then if you want to put it on your body, if you’re wearing a parka, it’s like the parka is very big. So trying to get over the parka is quite an adventure. And then, you know, if you put it under the parka– like if you put it on a different layer, but then you need to put your parka on like, yeah, it’s a little tricky, but maybe one of my projects will be to set up a mount for a GoPro so that I can do a little bit more filming.
The other thing that is kind of a trick in the cold weather is that I think you kind of have to like film from your phone. I’m not 100% clear, I guess I could just start rolling and see we get. I did one race and I had someone come and was trying to do some filming. And they put a GoPro on my sled but it wasn’t, we can kind of zip tied it on. And that’s kind of famous last words in the cold.
And to interrupt myself to say we’re finally in some shade. And I feel like the dogs are already like way happier. We’re going to go back in the sunlight soon, but the sun is starting to go down. Which speaking of headlamps and things on your head, I better start considering putting that on. It’s 10 degrees colder than when we started. But yeah, so anyway, that guy or that person put a, put a GoPro on the sled with some zip ties. I mean mea culpa, I like I was the one who was like, oh, let’s do this. And anyway, I really ate shit about two miles out of the checkpoint, or out of the start on some ice and that GoPro just got I mean, I don’t know, where does, it got totally ripped off the sled, so.
I felt bad about that. But yeah, so I guess that’s kind of a cautionary tales. Got to be put in the on the sled in a specific, firm way. Maybe, I don’t know, maybe. Maybe I put it on the front sort of. That way. I don’t have to like, mess with that too much. Anyway.
Yeah, it’s so weird. I’m on the Iditarod. And I’ve mushed this trail before quite a bit, actually when I trained down here. So this doesn’t feel too like different I guess it just feels like I’m mushin’ this trail. But I guess we’re doing it. I mean, we do keep getting passed by people and bibs and I’m wearing a bib. Also. I can’t remember if I said this before, but I’m number 27. So that’s exciting. I actually like that number a lot. So that was kind of exciting. Got a lot of good things going on for it.
Hopefully now that we’re in some shade, the dogs can cool down a little bit and like I said, we’re gonna be back in the sun soon. But yeah, it’s kind of got a we’ve got a bit of a chill wind going on. So and since I didn’t put my gaiter on my face is a little cold, but the sound might change a little bit, cause I’m gonna actually try to put my headlamp on and my gaiter. And then we’ll see what ends up happening with the sound of this recording.
My hope is to do I was gonna try to do one recording per day, but it’s really difficult to tell time or days apart when you’re racing like this. So I think maybe what I will try to do is do one per one per run if I can. I mean I can’t promise I’m going to remember that but we’ll see. I hope so. I think it’s kind of a fun idea. I think by the time if I mean Yeah, I was gonna say by the time I, if I publish this, you’ll all know what transpired on my race already. Like, you know, if I made it or whatever, I hope I make it.
Yeah, we’re getting a little, a little bit of a chilly wind, which is, I’m sure appreciated by the dogs. All right, let’s do this. Got my gaiter and headlamp all ready for myself here. Don’t want to drop either of those things. Gaiter wouldn’t be that big of a deal. But headlamp would. I better take my glasses off. Wearing some fancy glasses. My cousin works at a, an Oakley store down in Florida. And he helped me pick out some cool glasses. I’m sure that’s getting muffled. But try my best to keep you out of there.
It’s like a toss up between keeping you out of there or in the wind. Oops, keep interchanging my snow hook or my sunglasses and my headlamp. They’re kind of similar.
They’re things that go on my head. So make sense, right? I think I put these things on over a hood, but I don’t really care that much, so. Long as they work I guess. A lot of people do that. I usually don’t like to, but.
My hands are getting cold.
Oh man, whew! Cold fingers. It’s got– we got a moist chill in the air. I’ve got the dogs set up so that they have… I’m using a 16 dog line with only 14 dogs. So there’s a single dog in swing, which is the position right behind wheel. And there’s a single — er, the position right behind lead I should say. And there’s a single dog in wheel which is the position right in front of the sled, so two one-offs, [sound of a plane engine] and that can have some benefits. It means that like you can have an easier time like figuring out who can run with who, because if you have like a dog who doesn’t run well with other dogs and maybe they can be single or you know you can you have a little bit more variables there. But the downside is basically what’s happening right now which is that the swing dog so the one who’s right behind lead doesn’t have as much pulling power. And so the line sets get kind of crookedy.
Give them a little break.
You guys ready? All right. Especially because I do have Sun– I’m gonna have to switch where Sundance is cuz she’s right behind that. Maybe I’ll put her — Well. [Engines speeding by] You can hear the… These guys don’t– don’t don’t go slow. We’re going over this. I don’t really know what this is in the summer. So we’re on this river but not– Right now, what we’re going over is this pretty distinctive like bump that I’ve seen many times I guess it must be kind of like where maybe another stream comes in or something because it like forms this big ice bump. And then that gets covered with snow, but a couple, and now we’re still still in the water. But we went up higher. It’s kind of weird. Like maybe I guess maybe it’s maybe like a little tiny waterfall but that we went up.
But a couple years ago. Well, it’s been a while now. But I ran a race and there was an earthquake during the race and we were on this river and we can feel the river like moving underneath us. So it was terrifying. But when we came back down the trail, that bump right there had just like, I mean, it must just be sort of like a pressure point. And it had just– [High pitched encouraging voice] Come on Rey Rey! Come on! [Normal voice] had just cracked like it was wild. And yeah, it was really scary looking. Actually the whole way home there was a lot of land features that had been affected by the earthquake. It was a pretty big quake. The weirdest thing was that once we got kind of back into the wooded area, we went over some ponds and stuff. And um, the uh. You could tell that that ponds had basically like disconnected from around the outside of the– Oh there’s people. I think they probably think I’m talking on the phone.
And yeah, I’ve actually back when I lived in, kind of in this area, there was a river that Hooch, my original sled dog, and I used to go to and we would walk down the gravel bars for miles so we could go up this river and explore and oh, Hooch loved to find dead fish. That was her favorite thing. She’d of course roll in them, devour them and throw them up later. It was it was wonderful. It was a lot of fun.
I really like these braided rivers in Alaska. They’re very distinctive. I think they’re primarily from glacier runoff. I could be wrong about that. I’m not sure if it’s the Yentna a river that we’re on. I think we’re on the Yentna. Gosh, I should know right? I guess we must be. We’ve got another team coming up and they’re gonna get to us pretty fast here so I gotta pay attention. Gotta loosen my headlamp a little bit I had been wearing it, like tightened it by accident, no wonder that didn’t feel good. I had been wearing it to build my sled. And I had just been wearing it on my bare head. It became my new look. And yeah, it was just good fashion.
It’s starting to get to a temperature that I hope is better for the dogs and for me is a little chilly but I mean honestly pretty decent. So and at last I’m now glad I wore my parka I put my parka on for the start. I mean, it’s like more of a– it was kind of one thing for kind of like the image I guess and like, which I guess maybe it’s kind of silly, but seemed like I should be wearing my parka. You know, kind of how I imagined it. And then the [High pitched voice] good job, Sundance! [Normal voice] Sundance is pooping.
This parka I, it’s a very fancy parka. I actually inherited it secondhand from Aliy Zirkle. It’s way too big for me. Aliy’s a really tall person but my other parka got milkshake, not milkshake, a protein shake — oh man a milkshake sounds great though. Anyway protein shake all over it. I had been carrying it in the pocket… It exploded… It was bad. Anyway ended up basically ruining the park because I couldn’t I washed it a few times and that like destroyed the insulation. So anyway, that parka is toast so I’m wearing this one which is the next size bigger and it’s like really big. So I did cut the ends of the arms off that was basically the compromise I reached to make this parka work for me. [High pitched voice] Rogue! Roguey what are you eating? [Normal voice] Rogue got a snack.
Hopefully it’s a snack and not a bootie. Looks like she got a meat snack. [To the dogs] All right! [To audience] Maybe these guys are getting one more hungry with the temperature dropping.
Yeah, I need to, really need to move Sundance. She’s trying to… So we’re on this braided river right and then there’s all this snow machine traffic. So the trail we’re on right now is like 100 feet wide probably.
And Sundance is trying to get to the edge we’re in the middle of the trail. Sundance is trying to get to the edge, so she’s like trying to pull… We look ridiculous. Someone’s taking a picture right now.
I don’t know if anybody’s gonna listen to this because it’s just gonna be a lot of non sequiturs. But maybe I’ll just call it like, ADHD Onward. ADHD on the Iditarod Trail. Another musher behind me in a bit. Dan’s number 40. So he’s passed a lot of people. He’s got a strong, strong team this year. I must be now in number 36th place. 35 has not passed me but 36 has. Although I guess, since Yeah, no, I must be in 36 not that. At this time of the race, it doesn’t matter at all. And I shouldn’t be counting but I guess it’s just something to do. Yeah, the dogs are already feeling better you can just they’re getting a little bit more of a pick me up.
My race plan right now… Let’s see. Yeah it has me– it has me going 50 miles here. So we’ve got another like 30 miles to go here. And then another 50 and then basically another 40. But I wonder if I want to try and think about the best way. I guess I should do yeah, the 50/50. Trying to think if I can kind of hedge it so that I’m taking a rest in the hottest part of the day. We ended up running in the hottest part of the day, which is right at 3pm. So it’d be ideal if I could be resting then.
And then be starting mushing sometime like now which is like, I think it must be with my shortened arms. I can look at my watch. It’s so exciting. It is six o’clock. Exactly. Well, almost exactly. So.
So yeah, six is a good time to start, it looks like, in this latitude anyway. Sun’s finally starting to set and it’s cooling down. That three to six time was rough. There’s like– I can see a lot of mushers. I’m definitely… I’m gonna be I think I’m gonna be end of the line here at some point soon, but that’s okay.
It’s definitely easy to potentially let that go to my head. But I’m not going to. I say, trying to convince myself. But. I’ll do my best not to. I guess that’s all I can do. Just keep trying to keep focusing on my own race.
That’s definitely always one of the tough things. I mean for me, I’m not like, I don’t think I’m gonna win. I would love if I felt like I could be competitive for Rookie of the Year but I don’t think, I don’t think I have that chance. The dogs are good, but I just don’t think that they’re that caliber. I don’t know. I mean, sorry, guys. You’re– You’re wonderful. But also. I might be wrong. I mean, moreover, though, I’m not that caliber right now. So yeah.
Man, Sundance just really wants some snow. Pullin’ the team. They’re working half time to just pull her sideways. So Sundance was the one who was really thinking about not bringing in favor of Lincoln. We’ll see if I end up regretting my, my choice.
Quick stop here.
Let these guys get some– Especially Sundance. [To the dogs] You guys wanna take a little break? Easy there. Oh, take a little break. Good dogs. Oh, yeah, roll in the snow. You guys ready? [Dogs bark] Great. All right.
in favor of Lincoln. We’ll see if I end up regretting my, my choice. Quick stop here. Let these guys get some– Especially Sundance.
So earlier, when I was getting passed by many mushers, I did get passed by Aliy Zirkle on her very last Iditarod. And then I was also right after that passed by Martin Buser, who was my mentor, who taught me how to mush. So it’s kind of an interesting one-two. Never know who you’ll run into in the Iditarod. Well, you probably do, but it’s kind of cool. I mean, you know, mushing alongside some of the people who are best in the world at what they do.
I definitely have three mushers behind me, like right behind me. So see how that goes.
I wonder if it’ll be easier to kind of focus on my own race when I don’t have a bunch of people around me. Or, what I was gonna say is, I don’t think I’m gonna win. Or, like I said, even probably get Rookie of the Year, but I really don’t want to get the Red Lantern. I know, that’s silly. But I just, I have — I struggle with having a lot of pride about that. So I prefer not to get that. But you know, if that’s where we’re at, that’s where we’re at. And I’ll be proud to finish. Because the important thing, honestly, is my little buddies here and me going down the trail, and doing the best we can. And they are doing the best they can right now, that’s for sure. They’re doing awesome honestly.
I keep reminding myself that the, uh. I’m going the speed I want to be going. I don’t know if you could tell that the dogs just sped up, so I had to start putting a drag on. That’s that noise you here. Teams I’ve driven in the past, you kind of have to like ride the drag the whole time. And that’s not been the case on this particular run with these guys, which is a little disconcerting. And I’m thinking it’s mostly because of the heat. Because typically these guys do push pretty hard, but also at the same time, they don’t push as hard as some of the teams I’ve driven.
Who do I have behind me? It looks like a really low number. Can’t see that far away.
Ooh, I have ice cream I could eat. I forgot about that. So I packed myself as a snack…
Maybe we’ll do a running pass. I’ll stop. So the rules are you got to stop when somebody passes or needs to pass. But since we’re pretty separated by these two lanes, I don’t think it’s gonna be a big one.
Oh, wait, no, no. I was thinking it might be somebody I saw that it’s not them. The dogs are starting to realize someone’s behind us, oh no!
He’s got a cute little trailer. It’s got its own like little runners. It’s pretty adorable. Most people on the race have some sort of like a tail dragger is what they call it or a trailer. Basically something that goes behind the musher either on the same runners of the sled so like a lot of times we’ll see it where people are using it as a seat. Or as, or like Cody has right now a trailer actually he has both he has a trailer and a tail dragger. And there’s a lot of people seem to, I mean, it’s definitely true. Like the weight dispersal is really nice. You get a lot more storage. And things kind of steer better, but it’s, Yeah, just haven’t been able to. Well, I’ve kind of got two different things. One — he can definitely hear me — he keeps turning around. It’s like pretty quiet out here. So anything that people are saying you can hear. I can’t I feel like I haven’t earned my like sitting down on the sled. Yeah, gotta do it this way first.
All right. I’m gonna stop abusing y’all with my, my talks and let poor Cody off the hook, thinking he’s going crazy, hearing me talk. So this would be it for this one, see on the next, next run. Onward. I guess I should wait till I have the phone in my hand so I can make sure I know I have it. Well, that’s disconcerting. I don’t have the phone at all. Oh wow. Miraculously it is still attached to my headphones. It was just hanging. I wonder if it actually recorded. It looks like it. I guess we’ll see what happened. [Brief musical transition]
Thanks for joining the dogs and I for the second episode of Onward and Other Directions. If you want to learn more about the dogs or ATAO, you can check out our website at ataokennel.com. See you next week when the team and I will be at Finger Lake, and you’ll hear what a checkpoint sounds like. Onward.
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In which Will explains mushing, his journey to Iditarod, and why the audio of the first recording on the trail is so bad. Also in which you learn which dogs will join the team on their first ever Iditarod. On the way, Will and the team embark on the final training run before the race, and Will digs in more into his own journey as a trans guy and how he got into mushing at all. Rogue is naughty.
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Check out the emails that Buddies received before the race began!
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Onward and Other Directions
Episode 1: Is This Recording?
[guitar strumming]
Is this recording?
Just kidding. I know this is recording, because right now I’m sitting in front of a microphone plugged into a computer. But, for a few times each day during the first half of March, I spent a lot of time digging my phone out from a lot of layers, protecting it with one hand, and hitting the red button on the voice memos app. After I listened back to all of that audio, it seemed the most common thing I said to start off was “Is this recording?”
The reason it was so hard to tell is that I was in the middle of running my first Iditarod.
My fingers were freezing, the temperatures got down to the negative 50s, and it is pretty hard to negotiate seven-plus layers, with or without gloves. So, I think it makes sense that it’s pretty much the first thing out of my mouth every time.
Over the ten days of the 2021 Iditarod Sled Dog Race, I made 17 recordings. Some are almost two hours long; some are just a few minutes. I recorded my thoughts and my plans; I recorded silly conversations between me and the dogs; I recounted stories that had just happened.
I took audio of myself going through some of the infamous obstacles of the race. I recorded myself falling asleep and talking utter nonsense for MILES. And…my plan is to share that experience with you.
But, maybe we should back up a minute, before we go ONWARD…
*****
If you’re listening to this, most likely you know what mushing is. You know who I am; you know what the Iditarod is. But, just in case someone wanders this way who doesn’t know much about mushing or about my team — ATAO Kennel — I thought I’d record a primer episode, so to speak.
If you are already an ATAO Buddy or you’ve been following mushing for years, this one might be kind of old hat. You might be more into skipping it and moving straight to the start of the race. Totally do it!
But, if you have no idea who I am, what ATAO stands for, what “mushing” actually is, or why someone would be wild enough to travel 800 miles with a pack of dogs, this one’s for you!
And, I mean, if you might enjoy hearing someone go on and on about mushing, you’re in the right place.
*****
My name is Will Troshynski. I am a trans guy who mushes sled dogs. I can’t really talk about myself without talking about mushing, so let’s start there.
In super basic terms, sled dog mushing is a group of dogs, pulling a sled, usually with a human riding on the sled in some fashion. Mushing isn’t just restricted to sleds. Dog mushing, of any sort, is the ambitious idea of connecting usually between 2-16 dogs to some sort of transport. And, then, amazingly, letting them pull you!
People do this with all sorts of things — wagons, go carts, skateboards, scooters, cars (with or without engines inside)… For some reason, the idea of letting your rowdy and excited canine best buddies drag you along the ground, touches off something that is just deep inside of us. That desire has certainly sparked some ill-advised adventures! And it’s also created some MAGIC.
Part of the magic — the part that I know the best — is sled dog mushing. Modern dog sleds are a fairly lightweight construction. They have two runners that slide over snow or ice, basically like skis. There’s a basket that your gear goes into, and then there’s a place for you to stand and a place for you to hold onto. And you REALLY want to hold on. The thing about mushing of any kind, is that you better be prepared for a RIDE!
If you know dogs, you know that they love to run. I mean, yes, we all know some canine couch potatoes. But most dogs — from the littlest chihuahua to the biggest mastiff — LOVE. TO. RUN. Whether it’s chasing someone or feeling the wind in their fur, running and dogs are “a thing.”
When a sled dog and a harness come together, it is something beautiful. Think about your dog getting ready for her walk, and then amp it up by like a thousand. And instead of asking a dog to stay nicely by your heel, imaging letting them go, hitting the end of the leash, and then, with the power of a bunch of their friends, being able to move the pack — together. She’s in her ELEMENT. She’s going further, faster, and evermore towards the next thing, to sniff and see and experience.
When a group of dogs comes together to run, there’s an energy to it that is — it’s spiritual. There’s a connection to it. The human hanging onto the sled gets the privilege of being the water boy to nature’s most amazing team.
Are there dogs who don’t want to run? [Scoff] Of course there are! Dogs, like humans, are individuals, and they all have different personalities. Huskies tend to REALLY want to run, to understate it. But every now and then, you’ll meet a husky who plainly and clearly says, “No thank you. I am good.” So what happens to that dog? Well, they make themselves a super comfy spot on the couch.
Huskies who aren’t into running most typically become a house pet. They either become the pet of a musher — I know several in our neighborhood — or they are able to become pets in a house anywhere around the world. Some of those huskies might prefer fetch or they might not just like running in a group. And so they’d be really good for like ski-jor, which is when one husky pulls you by your skis — and notice I’m saying “YOUR” because I am not good at skiing.
Sled dogs, though, are sled dogs, because 99.9 percent of them are all in for running. It’s what they think about day and night. When they dream, they have running dreams. If you give them a choice of activities, they pick running. And that is over ANYthing else — eating, sleeping, whatever — they would prefer to run. Pull out a harness, and a sled dog goes wild! A walk around the block is NOT enough for these dogs.
And when you get a group of these dogs together and they realize that they have the power to pull a thing, they don’t really care if you are attached or not. They will pull it. They will run. They will keep running. It’s a thing. That’s why the number one rule in mushing is DON’T LET GO OF THE SLED! If you do let go of the sled, say goodbye. ‘Cause the team’s going to keep going until someone comes along to catch the sled and put the brake or the anchor in. It’s like their genes switch on to this age-old practice. They just want more trail, more running. It’s the same feeling as when they howl together. It’s tuning in to this ancient part of themselves
And it makes sense, because dog mushing has been around for a really long time. Some anthropologists argue that mushing may have been around for as long as domesticated dogs and Arctic living have coincided. Which also makes perfect sense. The practice of sled dog mushing was originated by native communities in the Arctic, around the world. For thousands of years, it was the prime mode of transport in those areas during the winter time. When settlers colonized the Arctic regions, they also colonized the practice of mushing
And that’s it’s whole, own subject. There’s a lot of work to pay back the debt of appropriated knowledge, not just systemically, but for myself, personally. I live and mush dogs primarily on Tanana/Dena’i land, and I’m working to learn more about the roots of the sport that I am part of colonizing.
French colonizers on Inuit, Nunavik, Cree and other Native peoples’ lands, were supposedly the first White settlers to learn to mush in North America. And the word “mush” comes from the French word “marcher” (which I am definitely not saying right, but means something like “walk” or “go”). Mushing persisted throughout the Arctic reasons as long it there was winter and not machines. During the Gold Rush, miners were so eager to have their dogs pull their gear that they infamously stole pet dogs right out of peoples’ yards. And that’s the genesis for “Call of the Wild,” if you haven’t read it. (Don’t see it. It looks really bad! Sorry, Harrison Ford. So “not good.”)
Supposedly, the mixing of all the different breeds of these stolen dogs with the northern breeds — like the Siberian huskies or Inuit huskies — ultimately created the dog called the “Alaskan husky.” So, there are different kinds of sled dogs. What you imagine when you first think of sled dogs and what you see in a lot of the media, is probably a fluffy, black-and-white dog with big blue eyes. That’s usually a Siberian husky or a Malamute. Siberian huskies and Malamutes are older breeds of sled dogs. Neither of them is as common any more. Siberians do run in races, but the most common sled dog these days — in both sprint racing and distance racing — is the Alaskan husky.
We call them “purebred Alaskan mutts,” because they’re a mix. Alaskan huskies have a lot of different things within their breeds. Basically, whatever wants to RUN MORE. They have a lot of the northern breeds — Siberians, Samoyed, Inuit huskies, even a little wolf. They also have Greyhound, German Shorthaired Pointer, even Shiba Inu, and a lot of other really strange things. I can’t remember it all. There was a breakdown of what their genetics are supposed to be recently, and it’s pretty wild.
The Alaskan husky is a recognized breed now all on its own. But it’s unusual. If you look at two Alaskan huskies sitting next to each other, you might laugh at the idea they’re the same breed. They could look wildly different from each other, because they’re not bred for looks at all; they’re bred for performance. So it’s the markers of performance that are actually genetically close enough to denote their specific breed. So you could have a dog who has super short hair and floppy ears, next to a dog with long luxurious fur and pointy ears, and both of them are Alaskan huskies, but they look amazingly different. And, the thing that makes them so similar is that they both can complete something like a 1,000 mile race, and do it in fine form.
There were recent studies that came out that showed that two different Alaskan huskies, like that, who look so different, they can share as much, or more, genetic similarity to each other, as two different beagles, say, who are clearly and distinctly both beagles. So, genes are wild. And sled dogs are wilder.
The sled dogs in my kennel are all Alaskan huskies. Alaskans are my favorite dog, for a lot of reasons, but one of the big ones is how cheerful and friendly they are. I’ll tell you a lot more about my ATAO teammates later and through the course of all of these recordings. But, with the idea of the Alaskan husky in mind, let’s go back just a little bit more, and talk about where mushing as a sport came from.
*****
Up until the mid-1900s, people in Alaska — both the Native communities and the White settlers — used sled dogs to transport mail, cargo, and themselves all over. Famously, there was a relay from Fairbanks to Nome by a series of mushers handing off a diphtheria serum, which saved many of the children in Nome during an outbreak in 1925. There’s a lot of stories from that — Balto, hopefully maybe you’ve heard of Togo now, and a lot of the legends from that time.
But, pretty soon after this, something else made it’s appearance on the Arctic scene — the Iron Dog, or, as you may know it, the snowmobile (what we call in Alaska the “snow machine.” I’m going to refer to them as snow machines from here on out, so if I’m saying that, know that I mean “snowmobile” if that’s what you’re more familiar with.)
Snow machines started to take over as the primary method of transportation in the Arctic and mushing started to disappear. So, the story goes, that Joe Redington Sr. saw this happening and wanted to do something that would bring sled dogs back to the fore. To not let mushing fade away into memory, and to not let the dogs fade away, either. He recognized, as a musher, that there’s this spark — that spirituality that I talked about — and that was worth preserving. So Joe put together this, frankly, ridiculous idea — an epic race. A 1,000-mile race that would go from Anchorage to Nome, crossing the Alaska Range, the Yukon River, and the brutal western coastline of Alaska.
When the first teams ran this race in 1973, they had NO IDEA if they would even make it. It took weeks for the teams to make their way to Nome. They didn’t have food supplies, the way we do now. They didn’t have trail markers. They really didn’t have any of the types of technology used in mushing today. They sort-of had headlamps. Some of the folks who ran that first Iditarod are actually still around, and you can ask them about the experience if you want, which is pretty amazing. There are a lot of laughs, and a lot of harrowing tales. It’s a wild story!
Now, it’s almost 50 years later, and the Iditarod has been running every year since. It normally runs from Willow to Nome now. Willow is a town that’s a bit further north and a little less populated than Anchorage, so it’s a little easier to take off from. But, typically, they do a ceremonial start in Anchorage every year, which you’ll hear me talking about in the episodes coming up, because, sadly, this year (with the pandemic in full swing) the ceremonial start was cancelled, AND the race altered course and did something totally new. It ran from Willow to the halfway point. And then it turned around and ran back. A big part of the reason for doing this was to avoid some of the Native communities along the route who have been isolating and trying to preserve their communities from the pandemic. It would be terrible if mushing brought that into their communities. And so that change was made in the interests of that.
Incidentally, this was MY first Iditarod. And it was definitely memorable! And it should have been, because it took me 20 years to get to the starting line.
*****
I grew up in Alaska, and I wanted to mush sled dogs since I could understand what mushing even was. I was lucky enough to learn to mush with Martin Buser, who is a four-time Iditarod champion. I went on to work with various mushers around the state of Alaska as a handler, which is kind-of like a “mushing apprentice.” I met a lot of dogs; I ran a lot of mid-distance races, so that’s, that’s what we call, usually a 300-mile race is a mid-distance race. And I scooped a lot of poop! Along the way, I learned about how to raise dogs, how to foster a positive pack, and how I’d want to structure my own sled dog team.
I went to college in St. Paul, Minnesota. I met some of my best friends in the world there and ended up living in Minnesota for a total of about ten years all-told. But I couldn’t stifle the desire to return to Alaska and to mushing. Some winters I did come back to Alaska and mush, working as a handler, like I said. I went back and forth between Alaska and Minnesota, never really fully ready to commit to my deepest hope, which I was also terrified of. It was to start my own kennel, and to raise and train my own pack of dogs. I didn’t want to run Iditarod until I could do it with MY PACK, because I couldn’t bear the idea of having such an amazing adventure and such a connected adventure and then having to say goodbye to the dogs at the end of it, as I, a handler, would move on to a different place.
In 2017, my spouse, Shawn (who uses they/them pronouns) and I moved up from Minneapolis to Fairbanks, Alaska, which has a great mushing community and a lot more consistent cold weather than further south in Alaska, which is where I grew up. I took the plunge and started my kennel (or, in other words, my team) with a group of puppies from my mentor Martin, as well as two old-lady dogs, Bonnie and Hooch, and a few dogs who had run just a little — Egret, Annie, Nala, and Ophelia. I formed a game plan that I would run Iditarod within the next five years. My plan was to grow and learn with my pups. We’d work together, race together, and become a TEAM, a pack. In 2021 we would finally run Iditarod.
I didn’t think I could put together the funding, much the less pull off the feats of organization, training, and time that preparing for a 1,000-mile race requires. But, I swallowed my terror and I just kept going. The motto of my kennel became “Onward.” In fact, ATAO (which is spelled A-T-A-O) stands for our philosophy on whole: Adventure, Truth, Accountability, Onward. We do our best to uphold that every day, and it’s not easy. I can’t say that we’re 100 percent great at it — we try. The dogs in the ATAO pack are goofy, strange, shy, sweet, they are grumpy, they are individuals. And to me, they are my family and my best friends.
ATAO is made up of 24 sled dogs and three pet dogs. The sled dogs are Alaskan huskies. They are Bonnie, Hooch, Annie, Nala, Cassidy, Aurora, Belle, Emmy, Ophelia, Furiosa, Sundance, Marnie, Mungry, Max, Zenny, Lincoln, Rogue, Rey, Rebel, Egret, Astro, Cowboy, HeMan, and Poptart. The pet dogs are Huckleberry (who is my naughty herding mix) and Oliver and Mo, who are Shawn’s dogs. Oliver is a herding dog, too, but he is slightly less naughty than Huck. Mo is a 190-pound Mastiff. I could spend hours telling you about every single dog, but for now, if you want to learn more about any of them, you can visit ataokennel.com and check out our team page and learn more about the dogs.
Of the 24 dogs I listed there, only 16 were in the race pool for this season. Bonnie and Hooch are each 13 years old, and they’re happily retired. They rule the roost and they have the choice of dog beds in the house. And they also like to run around barking at everybody else. Egret just retired this season. She actually trained with the team, but she started showing at the end of the season that she wasn’t as interested in going on the longer runs. And if a dog doesn’t want to run, they don’t run. Mushing’s not about making anybody run. Egret now practices being on the couch, but she still spends a lot of her time doing WILD zoomies around the yard and running with the younger dogs. She also enjoys testing out everybody else’s doghouse, just to make sure that it’s not better than hers.
The younger dogs are Astro, Cowboy, HeMan, and Poptart. They are all less than a year old, so they’re too young to be on the Iditarod team. So they spend a lot of time playing with each other and being told what is what by the old ladies. Max is the other dog who’s not in the racing pool. He loves to run, but he tends to overheat once the run gets up to a certain mileage. Instead of long-distance running, he’s a great helper to the pups. He facilitates their play time — he’s actually maybe one of the most playful, so maybe they facilitate him! — and he also teaches them the proper way to be a sled dog.
So, we have 16 dogs left of that group. I had to choose 14, which is the official starting number of dogs in an Iditarod team. So I had to select who wouldn’t go with me. It was a tough decision. Here’s some audio from my last run, my last training run, before Iditarod. (Luckily, most of the audio from the race itself is way better quality. But this should give you an example of what kind of rambling you’re in for, if you choose to come along on this oral adventure with us.)
*****
[Sound of runners on snow, wind blowing throughout]
Part of the run is making the final choice about who the 14 will be. So, two dogs have to stay home. I think I finally have decided that it’s probably going to be Mungry and Link who stay home, my two yearlings.
[Silly Yoda voice: Yes, I’m talkin’ about you, hmm. Yes, good dog!]
So, yearlings, as you might suspect, are dogs who are a year old, and they can definitely run a big race like the Iditarod, but you typically want to do it at a really nice, slow, easy pace so you don’t add a lot of strain on them, since they are young. And, so, these two dogs are definitely…yeah, they’re impressive. They both have completed two 200-mile races this year. They both did excellently. Their brother…
[dog barks, Will says “hey”]
Their brother, Maverick, from all reports, is also really impressive. So I definitely think they have what it takes, but with everybody looking really great, I think that the best choice is going to be to let those two be done with their season, and get to just play and hang out with their half-siblings, who are about eight months old — Mungry and Link are about a year and a half — so I think that is…I think they’re gonna stay at home. Which is sad. I’ve really bonded to them. They are the first dogs I ever personally, like, whelped.
I caught them, um, when they came out so basically I’ve been with them their whole lives. It’s kind-of wild!
*****
As you can hear, I finally decided to leave Mungry and Link at home. They are each only one year old. Since all of the dogs were in great health, it was most logical to leave them behind for this race. They will definitely be with me next year.
There are a lot of other factors going into the race. The night before the race, I was furiously packing, sewing, and doing otherwise really random last-minute things to try to be ready for the starting time. I’d already been in high-stress mode for a long time, because I was trying desperately to finish building my sled before the start (which is NOT advisable). My normal sled was wearing down, and I knew that I had to build something or buy something to get me safely down the trail. I wanted to build it, because that’s been part of my dream for a long time. And even though I’d never done it before, I decided that was the route I was going to go. Unfortunately for poor Shawn, the living room turned into a disaster zone, because I don’t have a shop or anything like that.
So, while I was preparing for Iditarod, there was all kinds of things that ended up strewn about the living room. First, we gathered and prepared the supplies that had to be mailed out to each of the checkpoints, or stops, along the way. Checkpoints are manned by race volunteers and often provide everything from food to shelter for humans. And they also hold your drop bags, so that’s the plastic-like, kind-of poly bags that you mail out ahead of time. They’re full of dog food, meat, blankets, snacks — anything else you’re going to need along the route. We sent about 1,500 pounds out.
Organizing and preparing the drop bags is a HUGE hurdle. The moment we finished that hurdle, I started building my sled. And the reason it was so late, that I started building my sled, was that it was super difficult to get supplies for the sled mailed up from the lower 48. We get it from a small company who manufactures them down in the Midwest. And they were awesome to work with, but with the pandemic, it was really difficult to get all that stuff up. I finally got the supplies I needed, and as soon as there was a tiny bit of room spared from the drop bag project, I dove in with my sled. Over the course of 12 days, I didn’t really have time to panic about how soon the Iditarod was — I had to finish the sled, dammit! I knew that part of that was a way to distract myself from worrying, but it still worked, even though I knew at the time “Oh, I’m distracting myself.”
By the time the start rolled around, not only was my sled built and tested, but I was strangely calm. I stayed calm. Not really being able to register that this was The Iditarod. That after 20 years of work and waffling, I was doing it. In fact, I have finished the race. Sorry — it’s a spoiler — but it still hasn’t hit me that I have done it. Maybe I will register that a bit more after I listen back to the complete tapes here.
*****
I’m going to be releasing one of these episodes a week. Most of the time I recorded one recording per run. I skipped a couple runs, and there are a couple runs I recorded more than once on. I hope you’re going to have fun going with me down the trail. I’m not sure if this is going to be “listenable” or not — I really hope it is. But thanks for taking the time to listen to this so far. I can’t wait to share our journey with you, and how we overcame the obstacles of the Iditarod, both external and internal.
As we like to say at ATAO, Onward!
*****
Oh, hey, you’re still here. Hi! So…I recorded some audio on the very last run before the Iditarod. You heard some of it just earlier. On the run, I talk about my choice of which dogs to bring on the race (that’s the part you heard before), more about how I got into mushing, and thoughts about what the race was going to be like. Unfortunately (as you also probably heard), the recording for that was not very great. I spent most of that run crinkling cloth against the mic. I think I was testing out a new parka. Anyway…I worked with a sound editor to clean it up, but ultimately I still wasn’t that thrilled with how it ended up. Nevertheless, it does exist, so, should you want to listen to it, keep going with this episode. If you don’t want to listen to crinkly rambling, please fast forward through all of this, or just skip to the next episode, the first one on the trail. If you’re interested in enduring such abrasive sounds, here’s the full audio of that recording. I promise the ones on the race are WAY BETTER. Okay, this time for real…Onward!
*****
[Sounds of runners on snow, wind blowing, etc. throughout]
Alright! Well, I guess I’m recording. So, this is the last run before the Iditarod. I’ve got 16 of our dogs here.
[Gee, gee!]
I guess I should introduce myself, huh? My name is Will. I am going to be a rookie in this year’s Iditarod. These guys have all been training really hard and they’re ready for the race this year. I’ve been working towards Iditarod… Oh, man— literally since I was seven years old when my family moved up to Alaska. I told our principal that “Oh, I’m gonna mush sled dogs. You can come babysit me and watch me mush sled dogs!” I didn’t realize at the time that it’s actually…like not everybody in Alaska mushes. In fact, most people have never even been on a dog sled. It’s not just, you move up to Alaska and VOILA, there you go. You kinda have to find your way in. I was lucky in that my mom is a teacher, and she ended up teaching with the wife of a famous sled dog musher, Martin Buser, who is — at this time, before Iditarod, a four-time Iditarod champ — who knows? Maybe this year will be number five?
And, yeah, I ended up getting…well, we became really close to the family, and Martin took me under his wing. I asked him if he would train me to run the Jr. Iditarod, and he did, when I was a freshman in high school. I got to work at his kennel. Half of the week I lived at the kennel; half of the week I lived at home. Mushing dogs, was doing my homework and trying to navigate the world of being a kid in high school. But mostly what I cared about was mushing dogs. I ran my first Jr. Iditarod — it’ll be exactly 20 years ago. Well, I guess actually it’s been exactly 20 years ago this past weekend. The Jr. Iditarod goes the weekend before the Iditarod, so…WILD…yeah! It was a long time ago.
Yeah…so, and ever since then I’ve been just hooked, and I’ve been planning to run the Iditarod. I mean, basically since I got to step on the runners of a sled…You know, I hoped it would happen a lot sooner. I really wanted to mush when I got done with high school. I mean, I really wanted to run the Iditarod, but my parents really wanted me to go to college. So I took a little four-year break and went to college in Saint Paul, Minnesota.
[Good dogs!]
We just crossed a road, by the way. Yeah, so I went to school in Saint Paul, and I studied Theater and English, which is really lucrative, as you might guess. And…yeah, then I returned to Alaska and handled for a couple different people over all of the state. And I got to learn a bunch of different styles of mushing, which was really cool. And that whole time I was kind of debating if I wanted to start my own sled dog kennel. So, you know, have my own group of dogs that I would be caring for. Having a sled dog kennel means that you are, you are kind of a bunch of different things at once. You are a parent for the dogs…it’s like people who’ve had dogs, you’re taking care of them, but you’re also the coach. You’re the team, you know, physical therapist and first responder for any kind of sorenesses or injuries, and illnesses…you know, you’re the person who’s with them 24/7, 365.
Sled dog mushing is not a sport in the normal vein of “sport,” where you have a season and then you kind of go away. It’s much more of a lifestyle, and these dogs are my family. You know, these are my best friends. Like, legitimately. They are the faces I dream about, and they are the creatures who are most familiar to me. They’re my people. And, yeah! I’m really excited and also kind of terrified to be taking a little “dog walk” with them across Alaska pretty soon. So…
My brain is definitely not comprehending that we’re going to be on Iditarod shortly. It’s not really processing that at all. Yeah. I don’t know how to explain when I’ll be able to start processing that. I’m nervous. It’s gonna be a different Iditarod because of the pandemic this year, or this past year. There’s been some significant changes to the race. They…the race normally goes from Willow, Alaska, to Nome, Alaska, which crosses the Alaska Range, it crosses the interior of Alaska, and then it ends up on the coast of Alaska, so you kind of hit all these different environments. But this year it’s going to go to the checkpoint of Iditarod — it’s in the interior of Alaska — so, we’ll go over the mountains, go to the checkpoint of Iditarod, and then turn around and come back to Willow, go back over the mountains again. And then part of the reason for that, I believe, is so that we are limiting the exposure to the various villages that are normally part of the race route.
We will still be going — not through, but near some of the villages that are typically checkpoints. That’s been a sort-of tricky thing to navigate, to make sure that…you know…just wanting to know that the communities, the Alaskan Natives that live there, have been…had a good amount of input in whether or not they want the race to come by, or not. And then working with them to ensure that we don’t expose them to the pandemic. And Iditarod is doing a lot of things to try to maintain the quote-unquote-bubble. And it’s either going to work or it’s, like, not going to work. And I think by the end of it we’ll know. I really hope that it does work. You know, I hope that everybody is…kind of sticks to the protocols and the rules. You know, we’ve been asked…
[You guys wanna take a little break?
Easy there. Whoa! Good dogs!]
It’s a beautiful day out. The dogs are dunking themselves in some snow here, and eating snow. That’s one of the ways they cool down. But in a second you’re gonna hear— they’re gonna start barking, cuz they don’t want to rest for too long. My leader, Belle, is rolling around. She loves to roll in the snow. It’s one of her favorite things. Kinda looks like a tiny pony rolling in the snow. Not very pony shaped, but more shaped like a sausage. A fast sausage!
[You can hear them start to make some noise; they want to get going.
You guys ready? Oh, okay Mungry, sorry buddy! You guys ready? All right, Mungry!
Mungry was gonna have a little roll, but he decided he was gonna jump back up.]
Yeah, so we’ve got Covid protocols, we’ve been…we’ve been required to take tests ourselves…and now starting yesterday we were tested by Iditarod. We’ll be tested again the day of the start, which is on Sunday. Today is Friday. And then we will be tested in the middle of the race. And at any point, if we get a positive test, we’ll be re-tested to make sure there’s not a false positive, and then if it’s a true positive then we are withdrawn from the race and we are required to quarantine. And then, if we need to be like moved to medical care.
I hope that the plans in place are going to be sufficient to protect everyone along the trail, and, of course, the people in the race.
But, most of all, I definitely want to make sure that the communities along the trail are not just safe, but also sort of like active participants in the plan. I actually reached out to a couple different contacts in the villages along the way, and was able to talk to a few people — including a health worker in the village of Nikolai — and she is a really kind and positive person and she was really excited for the race to come through. And what she said was that the community was actually mostly sad that they couldn’t visit with the people. I think Iditarod coming through, in some cases, seems to be like a little exciting event for people along the route. I don’t think that is a universal experience for all of the communities.
You know, after all, this is definitely…the sport is…yeah…it has definitely appropriated a way of life that was originated here by the First Peoples. And the race takes place largely on Tanana land and other Alaskan Natives’ land. I mean, naturally all of this is their land. So, yeah, I think there could be some frustration with that. I’m hoping to do more work to try to pay more respect to the tradition of the sport and to the people who originated it. The indigenous folks not just here but across Russia and northern Europe as well.
Yeah, I have investigating to do myself, and a lot of work to do myself, to try to better the sport in relationship to that, and also to hopefully not detract from the communities along the way but give back. As I can. Yeah.
So, aside from Mungry and Link, we have a group of mostly 3 to 5 year olds. [barking] The 3-year-olds are kind of a main core of the team. They are dogs who I raised from puppies. I didn’t have them…I didn’t whelp them. They were not born at our kennel. Oh, see I was like on the way to the way to do my introductions and I got derailed. But that’s an important thing to know about me. So, I was diagnosed with ADHD pretty recently. And I’ve also struggled with mental health issues, basically since I was a teen. Maybe even longer. But, particularly, depression has been a real big factor in my life. And one of my goals, one of my missions, is to try to spread some awareness about that, especially for young people. So, you know, that’s something I’m constantly working at to see what I can do to work with local organizations, and, again spread awareness and maybe share what needs to be said.
Another thing about me…I don’t really remember…Oh, yeah I did mention it. Wow, this is going to be exciting. Another thing about me — I’m actually a trans person, I’m a trans guy. I use he/him pronouns. I started my medical and social transition…well, it’s about two years ago. It’s two years ago in April. I didn’t originally plan to do this. Like, I definitely thought about it for a LONG time, but I had kind of intended to hold back on doing that until I could kind of do it more privately. I mean, you know, being a musher, you’re not like famous or anything, but, you know, there’s an exposure, you kind of have a little bit of a social media following and whatnot.
Honestly, my social media following that, especially on Twitter, but in all…we have, you know, Facebook and other areas; we have a Patreon and we have a lot of people on that. We call them our Buddies. I mean, those folks — not only have they made it possible for me to run Iditarod, but they, you know, they showed me a side of mushing spectatorship that I just didn’t think existed, which is kind of a little bit more, well, it’s open-minded for queer folks, particularly. And being able to be accepted just as a queer person, was HUGE! And then, you know, I did finally feel comfortable to come out as a trans person and begin my medical transition, which has been huge. I finally feel like I am, well, ME. Like, it’s like you’ve been wearing ill-fitting outfits for your whole life, and all of a sudden somebody gives you something that fits. And it’s like the biggest relief. So, I’m really grateful that I have been able to do that.
[Dog barks. Will: Hey! Roguey!]
But, yeah, and that’s all been thanks to the folks who follow us, who follow our kennel. Which, by the way, our kennel is called “ATAO.” So, that’s A-T-A-O. The reason that it’s called ATAO is…it kinda stands for our motto. It’s Adventure! Truth! Accountability! Onward! Yeah. Maybe I’ll put an insert back at the beginning of this, so that’s a little more logical. Yeah, the folks who follow ATAO have made it possible for me to run Iditarod, but for me to do it as myself, and that’s pretty massive.
So…yeah, the other dogs who are here with us on the team. Our ATAO followers know them well. Like I said, the 3-year-olds have been with us since they were puppies, and…
[Yoda voice talking nonsense to dogs]
Except for Zenny. Zenny we got when she was two. And she’s been with us now for a year. She’s definitely fitting in as part of the pack. But the other 3-year-olds, who’ve been with us since they were puppies…So we have a couple of different litters. And litters, we usually name a litter in a theme, so we can kind of tell who are the siblings of each other. So we have the Star Wars litter, which includes Rogue (who you heard me talking to a little bit ago) Rogue, Rey, and Rebel. They have a theme-within-a-theme with the reflection of the “R.” That was a Shawn idea. (Shawn is my spouse, and they came up with it…that was a big theme.)
And then we have sisters Sundance and Cassidy. They came as a duo. Then we have Furiosa, who came with her brother Mad Max, but Max is not going to be doing distance racing. He loves to run, and he helps us with short races or short runs, but he just isn’t kinda cut out for the longer distances. He gets really hot, and that affects him when he goes kind of above a certain mileage. He’s helping us train our younger dogs. He’s a great…he’s a great and goofy boy!
So those are the 3-year-olds. And Zenny, who I mentioned, is kind of her own, her own critter — she doesn’t have any siblings at the kennel. But my 4-year-olds are Ophelia — who was the very first puppy who I got. So I’ve had her the longest, except for her mom, Hooch. Hooch is the kennel matriarch, but Hooch is pretty old now. She’s 13. She’s…she doesn’t run in long distances any more. She still loves to run, and she loves to chase all the other dogs around. She’s got some grandkids at the kennel, and she chases them around and chews them out. Otherwise she spends a lot of time on the couch or carrying around dog toys, trying to find places to bury them. Those are some of her favorite things.
Ophelia is her daughter, and Ophelia is a GREAT dog. She has been the mother to two litters — so she’s Mungry and Link’s mom, and she’s just an awesome dog. I love her. She’s my special girl. But she is kind of a funny character, because we work really hard to make sure all of our dogs are really well socialized, and we do something called “free playing,” which is kinda like when you take dogs off-leash at the dog park, but we have our own dog park, we are our own dog park. They just run around and play with each other, but there’s a couple who don’t get to do that as much, or at least not in the group. Ophelia gets to play fetch by herself, or maybe play with a select couple dogs. But she actually really does not like dogs. I think she’s not a dog person. So, yeah, she’s funny that way. She’s great at working with other dogs, but she is just not a fan of hanging out with them. She prefers not so… She does love being on the couch, or the bed and snuggling. She’s a big fan of humans. Loves people. But not such a big fan of dogs.
One of our other 4-year-olds is Nala. Nala came from the kennel of a friend. And she is [unintelligible] She is the only sled dog who I’ve ever met who is really good at fetch. She LOVES fetch. I mentioned that Ophelia plays fetch, and she does, but she’s like okay with it, but sometimes she just prefers to run around with the ball. Nala is on point with fetch. She goes and gets the ball, she brings it back to you, it’s like it’s her favorite thing in the world. Except for running, because, yeah, all of these dogs just want to run. They go bananas for it. So, yeah. Nala and Ophelia are both really good leaders. And, yeah, interesting characters. Did I miss any of our 4-year-olds? No, I don’t think so.
I think all the rest of our group here are five. So we have some experienced 5-year-olds, which is great to have on the team. So, I’ll start with the sisters, Aurora and Belle. And Aurora and Belle came from Martin Buser, my mentor, the person who I learned how to mush from. They actually came as a wedding present.
[dog barks. Will: Roguey! Rogue! Sometimes Rogue, if she doesn’t think we’re going fast enough, likes to yell at her running partner, as though it’s that dog’s fault, which it is not. Haha!]
But, yeah, Aurora and Belle came from Martin Buser. They are GREAT leaders. And, yeah, were a wedding present when Shawn and I got married in…2019? Oh, I’m going to get in trouble for not remembering that. But yeah, they’re really fantastic leaders. Belle is leading right now. She’s super smart. We’re thinking about maybe her be a mama, that would be pretty cool. Yeah, her sister Aurora is also awesome. Aurora is spayed. It’s really important to us that we spay and neuter the majority of our dogs. Part of our kennel mission…
[Dog barks. Will: Excuse me, Roguey!]
Part of our kennel mission is to keep a small kennel, because…well, first of all, it’s the way that we can give each dog the most dedicated attention. We think that we can really — the dogs can flourish and will show you some pretty amazing capabilities with investment.
So, that is a big part of why we have a small kennel. And also, because, we’re a small operation. We’re uh… Myself, I am the main musher. We do have a handler that’s here, it’s Sam, Samantha. She’s awesome. But that’s not a very big operation. And I work full-time. It’s one thing if you are doing dog mushing — I mean, as I said, it’s a 365-day-a-year thing, but keeping a dog is expensive, and you have to keep a dog somehow, if you’re a “quote unquote a professional musher,” then somehow you’re making money from, either you’re a winner and you have sponsorships, or you’re involved in tourism that also involves the dogs, or some other way that the dogs are bringing in funds, but I am just…you know, I do my job. I’m able to work from home. I’ve been working remotely since before it was cool. And so that allows me to be around the dogs, and take care of them, and do all the things, which is free play in the summer, and do all that kinda fun stuff, but also make money so that we can pay for…
…Yeah, so, our small kennel has a lot of spayed and neutered dogs. We only keep a very select few intact who we may breed. We are not like, breeding, you know, a lot of litters. So far we’ve had two litters. We may have one more this year, and we’ll see about one more after that, but we’re, again, limiting the number of dogs that we are going to be looking after. Because we believe that every dog deserves as much as we can give them.
So, Aurora is spayed. And Belle her sister is not. And we may be interested in having her be a mama this year. So, among our other 5-year-olds is Annie. Annie came to us from a kennel that I had previously worked at. And she came to us not necessarily as a leader, but she’s really shy. And we put a lot of time and work in with her. And I really bonded to her. She is my buddy, for sure. During the the free play she’ll just usually follow me around. And, yeah, she is a FANTASTIC leader. She is probably one of my core leaders. And, yeah, she is a dog I rely on to have to get us down the trails, because she never wants to stop. She’s got this very forward-oriented drive and it’s pretty cool. She’s also a real sweetheart who LOVES to go in the house. She’s pretty funny though, because…Most of the dogs immediately go to the couch, they love the couch, because it’s like “the place.” But Annie is not about the couch life. I’ve been working with her to try to get her comfortable to even go on the couch. But she’s not really having that. So that’s gonna definitely be a spring and summer project, to work at that and get her to the point where she’ll be cool with the couch. I mean, she’s okay with the bed, but for some reason the couch is like not her thing. So that’s a spring project, for sure.
And another 5-year-old we have is the awesome Marnie. Marnie is…Marnie comes from a kennel of a friend, another friend. She’s actually related to Ophelia. They’re cousins. And she is…she hasn’t led for me yet. But I think she does have that potential; I haven’t put her up front yet. I mean, we may give that a thought, even during this race, sometimes it’s a good environment to try that. She’s just a rock of a team dog. She is steady and strong and she’s also really good at getting the team amped up, and that’s a really good benefit.
And then finally we have — I think finally? Did I get through everybody? Yeah, I think I did! — Finally we have Emmy. Emmy came to us as a 4-year-old, and as a fantastic leader, who is the only dog who has run Iditarod. She’s run at least part of Iditarod twice, really great, she’s truly a phenomenal dog. She’s also one of the most shy dogs I’ve ever met in my life. It’s taken a couple… it’s taken basically a year to get her to come out of her shell with us, and we’re definitely starting to bond and to become buddies. And part of the reason she ended up with us, the musher, who was retiring from mushing, wanted to find a space for her where she would get the attention and investment as a shy dog that she would need to flourish. And, you know, I’ve taken in a few shy dogs.
A dog who’s not in this racing pool is Egret. She’s another 5-year-old. She’s just…she had a shoulder soreness that took her out of the racing pool right now. A great dog, but yet another really shy dog. I really, really like working with shy dogs. Like there’s something very rewarding about earning their trust and their…yeah, you know, their sense of belonging. It’s so cool. One thing that happened with Egret, was we went on a free walk outside of our home. We went down to this pond that we go to do free walks, and I let all the dogs out of the truck. And Egret — this was the first time I think I was free-running her, because I had been taking her on a leash, because she was so shy and she was still kind of learning who we were, and all that stuff. I think at that time we had had her for about three months. So I let her, like off-leash, and she saw the trails! And we were like on/near one of the mushing trails, and she just HOOFED IT! Running down the trail as fast as she possibly could go.
And I was like “NO!!!” So then I was, like, posting on Facebook, and I got all the dogs back in the truck, and I was telling everybody I knew, “She’s going this way” and I phoned the people at the kennel she had come from and said “She’s running toward your kennel!” So I knew to go look for her, I needed to take all the dogs back home. So I rushed back with the dog truck, and when I pulled into the driveway, there was Egret! She had run back home, not to the place she had originally come from, but to OUR home. And that was such a big deal to me. I was like “Oh, my God. You know your way home, and you know this is HOME!” That was like, oh…it was a terrifying moment of feeling like “Ah, she’s gone!” but it was also really awesome that she knew what home was. And that we were home. That was a really, really cool moment.
So like I said, there’s a couple shy ones in our group, like Annie, Egret, Emmy, and I really like working with those dogs. I don’t know what it is exactly, but I think just being able to just provide that safe ground. And knowing that, if you’re just patient and give them faith, that they can feel comfortable. And I’ve actually been drawn to shy dogs since I started mushing with Martin. There was this dog named Elias, who was one of the yearlings I worked with, and, you know, I mean dogs have very different personalities. You can see dogs in the same litter, who have had the exact same experiences growing up, and yet, you’ll see a real big difference in their personalities. So, Elias was part of this group of “mountain” dogs, who were like Logan and K2 and Elias and Hunter — Ah, such good dogs! Those guys were all part of my first Jr. Iditarod team. But Elias was really, REALLY shy. He was kind-of had like a blocky build I would say, around his face. Really pretty. I was like, this last dog with some, like…you see this a lot on sled dogs, who are mostly Alaskan huskies — if you look up what that is. It’s very different looking than Balto, and what you think Balto looked like. But, yeah, Elias was a black dog, and he had some spots over his eyebrows, he had eyebrow spots, and some other white markings on, like, his chin and his stomach. But the white marking area…
[A dog barks.
Will: Roguey! Be polite. You know what, that person doesn’t even want to be by you.
Will chatters to the dogs in his “dog talking voice.”
Will: …You’re stuck under the line! … And Roguey is being rude about it. Roguey! You can be polite! …You’re free. All you gotta do is— See that— Oh, see! Now you’re… You guys getting some snow? Kind of a warm day isn’t it? Belle! Eh! Line out! Good dogs.
Crunching footsteps in snow.
Will: Belle-Belle! You guys ready? All right!]
So, yeah, where Elias had white markings, he almost looked a little bit blue, which was really cool. But he was so shy. He wouldn’t come up to anybody and…yeah, again, the same exact environment and experience, he just probably processed something, especially as a young puppy. So kind-of the stage of puppyhood where experiences can kind-of become really formative for the dogs. So if something scares them within this age range — and I forget, I think it’s like between, I wanna say like 8 and 12 weeks or something — that can really sit with them, and, again, kind-of form a lot of their resulting personalities. Or at least that’s what some people think.
So, anyway, Elias, he was pretty shy. And I just loved him from the beginning. And again, I don’t know what it is about shy dogs…So I would actually just sit with him, in his spot, like at his house. And he would not, he would be like “I am not interested in being by you, human.” And I would sit with him. Not like asking him for anything, just being in the vicinity. And I’m a 14-year-old kid. I mean, I don’t know what I was doing. But I kind-of like gave him space, and…but was also there. And also ignoring him. That’s like a really, kind-of important thing for dogs. It’s like, one of the best things you can do if a dog is kind-of worried about you is to ignore them. Because attention can mean an intention to interact, and they may not want whatever that interaction is, right? So I would just sit there, kind-of turned away from him, and just being there. And I let him come to me, you know? Like, really slowly and really testily. And then once he did come near, I didn’t pet him or scratch his ears or anything. I just let him sniff me, and, you know, see that…slowly start to trust that I was a safe presence. And over the years that I worked with that team, I built up that trust with Elias. And there’s…there was actually a picture of me in the Anchorage paper on that first Jr. Iditarod petting Elias at one of the checkpoints, and I have this huge smile on. It’s one of my favorite pictures. It’s so cool. But, yeah, that’s the first shy dog I worked with, and I really loved it. So I have a fondness for my shy Elias.
So, yeah, that’s the key. I mean, obviously I could talk about them for hours and hours. Who knows if anybody wants to hear that. But it’s kinda nice for me to talk. So I thought I’d, yeah, maybe use this as a way to tell my story and kind-of mark down my story as I go along the trail on my very first race. Hopefully, you know, have something to remember it all by and maybe share it in a way that is as in-the-moment, or as with-the-moment as you really can be
Yeah, I…Sorry…I’m so lucky to be here! To be doing THE THING! It can be hard to remember that, because it takes a lot of work. And, especially with my own dogs. And obviously you can tell how much I care about them, and how rewarding it is to be with them. There’s also a lot of pressure and worry involved, in a different way. And sometimes that squeezes out the…like I kind of forget about being where I am and being joyful about that.
It’s good to be mushing on this really beautiful morning, on the very last run before Iditarod. Hah! The next time I mush on these trails I will have completed the Iditarod!
[Silly Yoda voice: And you guys will have, too! Yeah! Oh, you’ll be such tough dogs. Haha!]
I don’t even know if this is still recording, so I guess we’ll find that out soon.
[Silly Yoda voice: Good girls! Come on Belle-Belle. Hoo-hoo-hoo! Good girl!]
Oh, that is what I say when the dogs pee. I don’t know why. I started saying that during this past Copper Basin 300. Sounds silly.
[Runners swooshing and clanking along the trail]
What a weird thing to do, huh? It’s a funny…it’s a very bizarre sport that not very many people do. Yeah, I’m really lucky to do it. Well, I think we’re going to be doing some exciting new trails on the Iditarod. New trails for us, just advancing, and going down the trail. Getting to be with my dogs. That’s pretty cool. All right. I will see if this recorded everything, and next time I talk to you, I think I’ll be on the Iditarod trail! Our motto — one of our mottos at the kennel is Onward! So — That’s what we always close things out with. So… Until next time, Onward!
[Runners swooshing, Will talking nonsense to dogs, music]
Yeah, I think this is gonna be an explicit podcast, because sometimes when you fall down you gotta swear.
[More nonsense to dogs]
Stay on the trail friends. Onward.
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