I was teaching fourth grade in Iraq, and in 2017 Iraqi Kurdistan was voting on its independence from federal Iraq. I wanted to be there to see what it was like to live in a country that was voting itself into existence. Countries, we sometimes believe, are monolithic and unchanging, when it's quite the opposite. Since 1990, 34 new countries have appeared on the map, rendering whole inventories of globes utterly useless.I started looking for a job in Erbil, the capital of Iraq's Kurdish region.