
Sign up to save your podcasts
Or


I like having only one type of cable to power all my devices, so I'm slowly replacing most of micro-USBs with type C.
Parts needed (affiliate):
Tools used (affiliate):
T12 soldering station:
PCB holder:
I can't stand that these scammers take advantage of people who may be down on their luck. And since my internet service provider/email provider can't do anything about these scammers, I decided to do it myself.
I'm using VPN, so it should be difficult enough for them to trace these calls.
This is an honest review of both cameras and their usability.
TL;DW: both cameras are mediocre. Seek is better suited for outdoor work, Flir is suited for indoors with lights on. Flir removed useful features from their app.
If you want to risk it (and support my channel), here are affiliate links:
Seek:
0:00 Intro
After some googling and some testing I finally figured out that the lines CC1 and CC2 are shorted on these breakout boards. Severing the connection between them and adding two pull-down resistors makes it a usable 5V connector.
You will also probably need 1206 size resistors for the reverse side: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AAAqGp
UPDATE:
TL;DW: cut the connection between CC1 and CC2, then add a separate 5.1k resistor to CC2.
USB-C cables/devices are complicated. This was my attempt to simplify one aspect: how to get 5V from a usb-c cable.
Affiliate links:
USB-C connectors: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AY5Aws
I've had this printer for about a month and wanted to give some quick impressions.
Here are the specs:
Affiliate link:
This duster is very popular on Youtube and for a good reason - it's small, convenient and powerful. Here I'm doing a teardown and replacing the micro usb port with USB-C for charging.
Caveat: it will only work with USB-A to USB-C cable since there is no pull-down resistor on the breakout board. In order for it to work with usb-c to usb-c cable you need to add 5.1k pull-down resistors on CC1 and CC2 lines.
Affiliate links:
Opolar duster: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFb5tKx
:::WARNING::: I just noticed I made a mistake in the connection diagram for Raspberry Pi. The 3v3 pin on the Pi should be on the top left, not 2nd from the top!
This is a quick tutorial on programming the esp01s board using a Raspberry Pi, Arduino, USB-UART converter and a frog programmer. I've used the Blink example application (File → Examples → ESP8266 → Blink) for this tutorial.
0:00 Introduction
Garage door opener: https://youtu.be/H7LQCYboJpI
Arduino: https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-uno-rev3
Affiliate links:
It will actually cost $5-7, you don't need a $35 Raspberry Pi or $15 Sonoff.
Correction: the GP0 pin in the Blynk app should be 1 to 0 (instead of 0 to 1) since the relay is active low.
ESP Code: https://github.com/ungineer/esp8266garage
Required Components:
magnetic sensor: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DmMc4XH
power supply w/o enclosure: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dU1bhas
Optional Component:
Blynk Getting started: https://blynk.io/en/getting-started
Music: Summer - Bensound
Uni-Trend UT120A/B/C multimeters are very similar, with A being the cheapest, having least options, B has the capacitance measurement and C has capacitance + current.
Affiliate links:
From the publisher's feed