Sailing in the Mediterranean and Beyond

SHOW NOTES: This is the third of several episodes which contain various recordings during my voyage this summer in Greece. Neil Fletcher and Jack Andrys were my guests and are also previous contributors to this podcast.

This episode is all about the food. We always ate well during this summer’s trip – sometimes exceptionally so – and this podcast focuses on three of the highlights. Andrioti’s restaurant in Nikhia on Nisyros boasts not only great food and good service but also a terrace with one of the best views in the Dodecanese, as mentioned in the show notes to our previous podcast. The brief video below should give you an idea of what we mean....

We also meet Soula, the charming but shy owner of Aegeo Pelagos in Vathys on Kalymnos. We find out a little bit more about her restaurant and her favorite dishes, which may come in helpful should you ever find yourself in this gorgeous little harbor.

Neil contributes an epicurean tale of his own about the frighteningly-authentic rustic French sausage he enjoyed in downtown Los Angeles a few years ago, and Jack weighs in with a little palate cleanser about his experiences as a diver following a helicopter accident off the coast of Karratha in Western Australia.

 

Finally we conduct an on-site segment from Taverna Kalidonis in the small anchorage of Palionisos. We interview the owner, who built the place from scratch following a turndown in the construction business. The food at the Taverna was not quite as exceptional as at Aegeo Pelagos, but the setting, overlooking the compact bay with a small number of buoys, simply could not be bettered.

You can find the taverna's Facebook page HERE. And below is a short video of this charming little harbor.....

 

We hope the above leaves you 'hungry' for more from Sailing in the Mediterranean. And since I often open the show with a couple of brief notes about my life in Utah, and my hikes at the ranch  I thought I would include here a photograph I took this weekend from the tree stand I discuss in the introduction. Look at that beautiful tall straight Aspen!

As always, I'm always looking for reviews for my instructional sailing podcasts which can be downloaded here too. The Bareboat Cruising Certification is an extensive 8 hour lesson which will set you well on your way to casting off those lines and exploring new horizons. Simply click the link below. Fair winds to you all!

 

If you would like to be a guest or have suggestions for topics to bring up in the podcast or if you would like Franz to be a speaker at your Sailing Club or fundraiser please feel free to contact me.

©2015 Franz Amussen all rights reserved

Sailing in the Mediterranean Website

http://www.medsailor.com

Audio Sailing Lessons by Franz

Sailing! Learn to Sail: Basic Keelboat Certification Lessons for the ASA 101 Exam

https://gumroad.com/l/Eiig

Sailing! Learn to Sail: Basic Coastal Cruising; Lessons for the ASA 103 Exam

https://gumroad.com/l/PvOYK

Sailing! Learn To Sail: Bareboat Cruising Certification Lessons for the ASA 104 Exam

https://gumroad.com/l/bwXh

Sailing in the Mediterranean Website

http://www.medsailor.com

Docked in Palloi harbor

SHOW NOTES: This is the second of several episodes which contain various recordings during my voyage this summer in Greece. Neil Fletcher and Jack Andrys were my guests and are also previous contributors to this podcast. During the week that they were sailing with me we made several recordings of observations and stories we had tell along the way. Most of this episode deals with our experiences on the island of Nisyros, where we stayed in the small harbor town of Palloi this past June. The almost deserted town Jack mentions is Nikia, and the restaurant  'on the main drag' where we were the only patrons all night is located in Mandraki. Jack also shares some of his knowledge from his previous careeer as a professional diver, including the dangers of hyperventilating before going down....

 

We arrived at Nisyros after an invigorating sail of about 40nm from Astypalaia, with a fresh breeze mostly on the beam but later clocking round to our quarter, bringing a medium swell and following seas by late afternoon.

Like most of the Dodecanese islands, Nisyros has a rich history. According to the historian Herodotus the island changed sides between Athens and Sparta a couple of times in the Peloponnesian War, and later fell under the yoke of the Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman Empires before passing to the Italians in 1912. It didn’t join the Greek State until 1948.

Local legend has it that Nisyros was formed by the god Neptune, who ripped up part of the neighboring island of Kos and used it to bury a love rival. The more scientific explanation is that it was separated from Kos by an enormous volcanic eruption 160,000 years ago. Whatever the truth, the island’s main draw these days is a large caldera that dominates the south eastern section of the island which makes an excellent short trip if you happen to find yourself docked in Palloi or Mandraki.

 

ITS A GAS: The Caldera on Nisyros

The caldera saw major eruptions in 1871, 1873 and 1887, but these days its eruptions seem confined to gentle smoke and sulfurous gases issuing from assorted spots in the crater. The entrance fee is gentle too - just three euros a person.

The church at Nikia

From the crater you can clearly see the dramatic church atop the neighboring town of Nikia. The Greeks love to demonstrate their piety by building their houses of worship on the most prominent peaks, but this does have the added benefit of great views when you get up there. We visited the church and wandered around the almost-deserted town, as Jack mentions in the podcast.

Room with a view: Andrioti's in Nikia

We also enjoyed a great meal with spectacular views at Andrioti’s restaurant, which sits astride the town entrance. You simply can’t miss this place…. nor should you. The food and service were first class, and view is something on which you cannot put a price. The three of us cooled down with the local Mythos beer, followed by Saganaki (completely addictive fried Greek cheese), a grilled vegetable assortment and braised local rabbit served with rice. We shared their ‘famous’ Choko Volcano dessert and a panna cotta. With coffee the bill came to a very resonable 36 euros for three. For more on Andrioti’s, their Facebook page can be found HERE.

SHOW NOTES: This is the second of several episodes which contain various recordings during my voyage this summer in Greece. Neil Fletcher and Jack Andrys were my guests and are also previous contributors to this podcast. During the week that they were sailing with me we made several recordings of observations and stories we had tell along the way. Most of this episode deals with our experiences on the island of Nisyros, where we stayed in the small harbor town of Palloi this past June. The almost deserted town Jack mentions is Nikia, and the restaurant  'on the main drag' where we were the only patrons all night is located in Mandraki. Jack also shares some of his knowledge from his previous careeer as a professional diver, including the dangers of hyperventilating before going down....

 

We arrived at Nisyros after an invigorating sail of about 40nm from Astypalaia, with a fresh breeze mostly on the beam but later clocking round to our quarter, bringing a medium swell and following seas by late afternoon.

Like most of the Dodecanese islands, Nisyros has a rich history. According to the historian Herodotus the island changed sides between Athens and Sparta a couple of times in the Peloponnesian War, and later fell under the yoke of the Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman Empires before passing to the Italians in 1912. It didn’t join the Greek State until 1948.

Local legend has it that Nisyros was formed by the god Neptune, who ripped up part of the neighboring island of Kos and used it to bury a love rival. The more scientific explanation is that it was separated from Kos by an enormous volcanic eruption 160,000 years ago. Whatever the truth, the island’s main draw these days is a large caldera that dominates the south eastern section of the island which makes an excellent short trip if you happen to find yourself docked in Palloi or Mandraki.

 

The caldera saw major eruptions in 1871, 1873 and 1887, but these days its eruptions seem confined to gentle smoke and sulfurous gases issuing from assorted spots in the crater. The entrance fee is gentle too - just three euros a person.

From the crater you can clearly see the dramatic church atop the neighboring town of Nikia. The Greeks love to demonstrate their piety by building their houses of worship on the most prominent peaks, but this does have the added benefit of great views when you get up there. We visited the church and wandered around the almost-deserted town, as Jack mentions in the podcast.

We also enjoyed a great meal with spectacular views at Andrioti’s restaurant, which sits astride the town entrance. You simply can’t miss this place…. nor should you. The food and service were first class, and view is something on which you cannot put a price. The three of us cooled down with the local Mythos beer, followed by Saganaki (completely addictive fried Greek cheese), a grilled vegetable assortment and braised local rabbit served with rice. We shared their ‘famous’ Choko Volcano dessert and a panna cotta. With coffee the bill came to a very resonable 36 euros for three. For more on Andrioti’s, their Facebook page can be found HERE.

After such an ambitious day's activity, we headed back to Palloi for some ouzo and (in Jack's memorable words) 'a few cleansing ales'.

Here is a short GoPro video of the return to Palloi.

 

 

As for Palloi itself, the small harbor is well set up to service the visiting sailors, and the harborside tavernas offer far more than just calamari and retsina. No sooner did we tie up than we were gently offered services including freshwater showers (3 euros), laundry (10 euros) and scooter, ATV and car rentals (starting at about 15 euros). The restaurants, which all offered free wifi, were located perhaps ten paces from our boat, which meant once you got the code you could, if you were so inclined, answer your email without even leaving the cockpit.

Captain Jack Andrys

SHOW NOTES: This is the first of several episodes which contain various recordings during my voyage this summer in Greece. Neil Fletcher and Jack Andrys were my guests and are also previous contributors to this podcast. During the week that they were sailing with me we made several recordings of observations and stories we had tell along the way. Our trip took us through several of the Dodecanese Islands, located just a little west of the Turkish coast. There are twelve large islands in the Dodecanese group (dodeka means twelve in Greek), plus about 150 smaller ones. We sailed southwest from Leros to Astypalaia, about a 45nm trip, and then due east to Nisyros, about another 40nm,  where we stayed for two nights in the charming small harbor at Palloi and toured the island on rented scooters.

From Palloi we headed north, skirting the busy island of Kos to Kalymnos, where we dropped anchor in Vathi (also known as Vathys). The locals call the tiny harbor entrance 'the Fjord' and you can see why. It's a tiny cut intersecting the barren cliffs of the island, very sheltered and no more than 400 meters long from the entrance to the harbor wall, and about 100m wide. There are moorings for about 15 boats and its free alongside the wall. Here is a brief video of the harbor entrance:

 

Aigaio Pelagos: A very nice spot for lunch...or dinner

Now that's what we call calamari...

We also enjoyed a great meal here at the Aigaio Pelagos, which Neil proudly informed us means Aegean Sea. Turns out Neil studied Ancient Greek at University, and 25 years later, it looks like it's finally come in handy. The service was friendly, the retsina was cold and the calamari - served whole - was quite delicious. As for the setting, looking out over the port with the hills to our left and right, it really couldn't be bettered. We enjoyed a leisurely lunch there, followed by pre-dinner drinks, followed by dinner, and we even met the proprietor, a charming lady named Soula from whom we will hear more in a later podcast. We were also befriended by another Australian - the third in two days - who worked at the restaurant. Aigaio Pelagos has several rave reviews on TripAdvisor, which you can read HERE.

 

Kalymnos, with Vathi ringed

We've also enclosed a rather crude map of Kalymnos with Vathys circled. If you are sailing in the area don't miss it. It was certainly a highlight of the trip for us.

This enterprising local farmer trucks his produce up ...

SHOW NOTES: This is the first of several episodes which contain various recordings during my voyage this summer in Greece. Neil Fletcher and Jack Andrys were my guests and are also previous contributors to this podcast. During the week that they were sailing with me we made several recordings of observations and stories we had tell along the way. Our trip took us through several of the Dodecanese Islands, located just a little west of the Turkish coast. There are twelve large islands in the Dodecanese group (dodeka means twelve in Greek), plus about 150 smaller ones. We sailed southwest from Leros to Astypalaia, about a 45nm trip, and then due east to Nisyros, about another 40nm,  where we stayed for two nights in the charming small harbor at Palloi and toured the island on rented scooters.

From Palloi we headed north, skirting the busy island of Kos to Kalymnos, where we dropped anchor in Vathi (also known as Vathys). The locals call the tiny harbor entrance 'the Fjord' and you can see why. It's a tiny cut intersecting the barren cliffs of the island, very sheltered and no more than 400 meters long from the entrance to the harbor wall, and about 100m wide. There are moorings for about 15 boats and its free alongside the wall. Here is a brief video of the harbor entrance:

 

We also enjoyed a great meal here at the Aigaio Pelagos, which Neil proudly informed us means Aegean Sea. Turns out Neil studied Ancient Greek at University, and 25 years later, it looks like it's finally come in handy. The service was friendly, the retsina was cold and the calamari - served whole - was quite delicious. As for the setting, looking out over the port with the hills to our left and right, it really couldn't be bettered. We enjoyed a leisurely lunch there, followed by pre-dinner drinks, followed by dinner, and we even met the proprietor, a charming lady named Soula from whom we will hear more in a later podcast. We were also befriended by another Australian - the third in two days - who worked at the restaurant. Aigaio Pelagos has several rave reviews on TripAdvisor, which you can read HERE.

 

We've also enclosed a rather crude map of Kalymnos with Vathys circled. If you are sailing in the area don't miss it. It was certainly a highlight of the trip for us.

If you would like to be a guest or have suggestions or if you would like Franz to be a speaker at your Sailing Club or fundraiser please feel free to contact me.

©2015 Franz Amussen all rights reserved

Sailing in the Mediterranean Website

http://www.medsailor.com

Audio Sailing Lessons by Franz

Sailing! Learn to Sail: Basic Keelboat Certification Lessons for the ASA 101 Exam

https://gumroad.com/l/Eiig

Sailing! Learn to Sail: Basic Coastal Cruising; Lessons for the ASA 103 Exam

https://gumroad.com/l/PvOYK

Sailing! Learn To Sail: Bareboat Cruising Certification Lessons for the ASA 104 Exam

https://gumroad.com/l/bwXh

Sailing in the Mediterranean Website

http://www.medsailor.com

On the boat this summer I observed a mechanic for both the engine and the refrigeration work. From watching the refrigeration mechanic work I think there's a great opportunity for somebody to make money while sailing by doing refrigeration work on boats and I discuss that idea in this podcast. Then I make some observations about the Greek economy. Finally I talk about my overall route in Greece and Turkey and my assorted crews.

©2015 Franz Amussen all rights reserved

 

True Blue: a chapel on Nisyros

Easy Rider: Neil en route to the Nisyros Caldera

 

Astypalaia Town

The harbor at Astypalaia was full so I made my own Med Moor

Jack and Neil enjoy a well-deserved beer, harborside in Astypalia

Sailing in the Mediterranean Website

https://www.medsailor.com

Audio Sailing Lessons by Franz

Sailing! Learn to Sail: Basic Keelboat Certification Lessons for the ASA 101 Exam

https://gumroad.com/l/Eiig

Sailing! Learn to Sail: Basic Coastal Cruising; Lessons for the ASA 103 Exam

https://gumroad.com/l/PvOYK

Sailing! Learn To Sail: Bareboat Cruising Certification Lessons for the ASA 104 Exam

https://gumroad.com/l/bwXh

Sailing in the Mediterranean Website

https://www.medsailor.com

 

On the boat this summer I observed a mechanic for both the engine and the refrigeration work. From watching the refrigeration mechanic work I think there's a great opportunity for somebody to make money while sailing by doing refrigeration work on boats and I discuss that idea in this podcast. Then I make some observations about the Greek economy. Finally I talk about my overall route in Greece and Turkey and my assorted crews.

©2015 Franz Amussen all rights reserved

 

 

Sailing in the Mediterranean Website

http://www.medsailor.com

Audio Sailing Lessons by Franz

Sailing! Learn to Sail: Basic Keelboat Certification Lessons for the ASA 101 Exam

https://gumroad.com/l/Eiig

Sailing! Learn to Sail: Basic Coastal Cruising; Lessons for the ASA 103 Exam

https://gumroad.com/l/PvOYK

Sailing! Learn To Sail: Bareboat Cruising Certification Lessons for the ASA 104 Exam

https://gumroad.com/l/bwXh

Sailing in the Mediterranean Website

http://www.medsailor.com

This is a sample lesson of my sailing audio book: Learn to sail: basic coastal cruising lessons for the ASA 103 exam

Lesson 5: How to Interpret Marine Weather Information, Small Craft Advisories, Gale Warnings, How to Identify Cumulonimbus Clouds

and their Dangers

©2015 Franz Amussen all rights reserved

 

 

Would you like Franz to be a speaker at your Sailing Club or fundraiser? Call 801-575-6409 or email [email protected]

 

This is a sample lesson of my sailing audio book: Learn to sail: basic coastal cruising lessons for the ASA 103 exam

Lesson 5: How to Interpret Marine Weather Information, Small Craft Advisories, Gale Warnings, How to Identify Cumulonimbus Clouds

and their Dangers

©2015 Franz Amussen all rights reserved

 

 

Would you like Franz to be a speaker at your Sailing Club or fundraiser? Call 801-575-6409 or email [email protected]

 

This is a sample lesson of my sailing audio book: Learn to sail: basic coastal cruising lessons for the ASA 101 exam

Lesson 5: Points of Sail and Wind

This is a sample lesson of 7 hour, 6 minute, 16 lesson audio course designed to help you prepare for the American Sailing Association Basic Keelboat Certification exam.

The ASA exam is basically the same material covered in the other exams such as those of the US Sailing Association and the British Royal Yachting Association with one big difference: in Europe and (for the most case), the rest of the world outside north America, the lateral aids to navigation are red left returning from the sea.

We cover terminology, definitions, and commands, different names of components on a sail boat. We learn about Rules of the Road, Lateral aids to navigation, man overboard recovery drills, boating pollution rules, required safety equipment, and really all that can be covered an audio course for this basic exam.

While it is obvious we can’t cover the actual on the water exam we do discuss what is expected and what your thought process might be when taking the practical sailing on the water exam.

©2015 Franz Amussen all rights reserved

 

 

 

 

Would you like Franz to be a speaker at your Sailing Club or fundraiser? Call 801-575-6409 or email [email protected]