What does an American missionary have to do with Hainanese Chicken Rice in Malaysia? More than you ever thought possible.

In this season finale, we follow Malaysia's story up to the beginning of the 20th Century. The full occupation of the Malay peninsular is in Britain's sight. Spurious contracts, military force and secret conventions render the Malay rulers powerless. At the same time, war is brewing in China, leaving many to seek refugee in the comparative safety of Malaya.

We speak to chef Xianji Chen on the unique chicken rice stylings of Melaka. We also hear from Tan Tee Yong and Sherine Tan, owners of Happy Garden Restaurant in Penang, Yong shares his experiences of fusing British and Chinese culinary traditions and discusses his fears that the future of our food culture comes down to packaging.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Lee, E., Wong, S.P., Laxman, L. Language Maintenance and Cultural Viability in the Hainanese Community: A Case Study of the Melaka Hainanese (2014). Athens Journal of Humanities & Arts, Vol. 1, no. 2 pp. 157 – 168, https://doi.org/10.30958/ajha.1-2-6

Hoe Kee Chicken Rice - 468, Jalan Hang Jebat, 75200 Melaka, Malaysia

Happy Garden Restoran - 206b, Jalan Batu Ferringhi, Kampung Batu Feringgi, 11050 Batu Ferringhi, Pulau Pinang, Malaysia

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

English Dub by Liu Ziyang

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

There's no whisky in a Malaysian toddy. That's because toddy in Malaysia refers to the kombucha-like coconut drink. Toddy is sugary, sour and a bit funky. But like so many of Malaysia's foods, the sweet taste obscures a very dark origin.

In the 19th Century, the British East India Company continued its campaign to control the Malay peninsular. Powering this new empire, however, required a substantial labour force. But in a post-slavery world, Britain would need a different approach to securing cheap workers.

We hear from Sushil Nair, owner of Nachi Toddy (@nachitoddy) on the importance of toddy to the Indian and Sri Lankan communities. He talks us through toddy brewing techniques, starting a toddy business and the anti-toddy attitudes from within his own community.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

The Plantation as Subject? Centring the Plantation within Malayan Anti-Colonial Histories (28 Nov 2024), London School of Economics, Sahil Bhagat

Krishnan, P., & Raman, J.J. (2018). Toddy Business among the Indian Labour in Colonial Malaya, 1900-1957. International journal of humanities and social science, 8.

Parameswari, K. (2014). Anti-toddy movement in Malaya, 1900-1957.

Krishnan, D. P. ., Raman, D. J. H. J. ., & Darkasi , S. . (2020). Between Life and Death: Suicide amongst the Indian Labour in Colonial Malaya, 1900-1941. International Journal of Social Science and Economics Invention, 6(09), 351 TO 355. https://doi.org/10.23958/ijssei/vol06-i09/235

Krishnan, P., Raman, J.J., Krishnan, R. (2020). A Study on the History of Estate Tamil Schools in Malaya, MALAYSIA dari segi SEJARAH

Nachi Toddy - Portuguese Settlement, Medan Selera, Portuguese Settlement, Melaka, 75050 Malacca, Malaysia

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

Tried laksa with spaghetti? Or sour tamarind laksa? Laksa comes in many forms, but a classic Nyonya laksa has captured global hearts more than others. Its a dish that's central to the Chinese Peranakan community - a community that found unusual favour in Britain-controlled Malaya.

As the 18th Century rolled on, the Malay world faced growing European pressure, especially with the rise of the British East India Company. They came not just to trade, but to control. Armed with the power of deception, the Company set its sights on the island of Penang.

We hear from Peranakan researcher Dr David Neo, on the rise of Chinese Peranakan communities in colonial Malaya. He also shares his experiences on the extravagance of Nyonya cuisine and its uncertain future.

And Lillian Tong, Director of the Pinang Peranakan Mansion, recounts life growing up in Penang. She discusses the shame of being Peranakan in the 1980s and the sudden revival and popularisation in the 1990s.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Neo, D. H., Ngo, S.-S., & Heng, J. G. K. (2019). Popular imaginary and cultural constructions of the Nonya in Peranakan Chinese culture of the Straits Settlements. Ethnicities, 20(1), 24-48. https://doi.org/10.1177/1468796819867399

Growing Up in a Nonya Kitchen: Asian Recipes from My Mother (2021), Sharon Wee

The Nyonya Kebaya: A Showcase Collection of Nyonya Kebayas from The Collection of Datin Seri Endon Mahmood (2002), Datin Seri Endon Mahmood

Pinang Peranakan Mansion - 29, Church St, Georgetown, 10200 George Town, Penang, Malaysia

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

Kueh defies classification. Even kueh experts can't land on a definition. Perhaps that's because kueh has influences from around the world, notably from European colonisers.

After the invasion of Melaka by the Portuguese armada, much of South East Asia faced the firm grip of colonialism. By the 17th Century, the Dutch VOC empire had invaded parts of Indonesia in a violent pursuit to control spice production. But the Malay rulers would soon learn that the enemy of my enemy is my friend.

The kueh of today is a reflection of this colonial past. Kueh-master Christopher Tan (@thewayofkueh) shares some of the most fascinating stories of kueh you will ever hear. He connects the wide-world of South East Asian kuehs with traditions from the Netherlands, Turkey and even the US!

We also hear from Noor Azura, owner of Kuih Keria Antarabangsa. She shares her inspiring story of how one kuih has changed the fortunes of her entire family.

Resources and References

The Way of Kueh (2019), Christopher Tan

Nerdbaker: Extraordinary Recipes, Stories & Baking Adventures from a True Oven Geek Paperback (2015), Christopher Tan

Nerdbaker 2: Tales of the Yeast Indies (2024), Christopher Tan

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Merchant Kings - When Companies Ruled the World 1600-1900 (2010), Stephen R Bown

The Batavia Massacre: The Tragic End to a Century of Cooperation (2019), Kimberley Wilhelmina Wells

The Dutch East India Company - BBC Sounds

Kuih Keria Antarabangsa, No.29-1 Jalan Kristal Merah 2, Taman Limbongan Jaya, Limbongan, Malacca City, Malaysia

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

English Dub by Anindya Kenyo Larasti

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

If Malaysia has a national condiment, it would be sambal. Yet as central as sambal is to Malaysia's culinary heritage, it wouldn't exist without Portugal.

As Melaka's fortunes grew, the empire attracted the envy of Europe. By the 16th Century, Portuguese merchants began trading with Melaka, introducing new products like chillis and tomatoes. But this trade partnership wasn't enough and Portuguese rulers soon wanted more from Melaka. And so kicked off a long era of European colonialism in the region.

Portugal left a significant mark on Malaysia's culture, best represented by the Kristang community. We hear from chef Melba Nunis (@chefmelbanunis) about her Eurasian roots and the uniqueness of Kristang cuisine. She shares her experience in keeping traditions alive by publishing a cookbook, which remains one of just two cookbooks specialising in Kristang cuisine.

We also hear from community leader Martin Theseira, who grew up in the Portuguese settlement of Melaka. We learn about the Kristang creole language, a once thriving dialect that is now spoken by just 2,000 people.

References and Resources

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Kristang Dictionary

A Kristang Family Cookbook (2015), Melba Nunis

Stories of Praya Lane

The Melaka Portuguese Eurasian Heritage Arts and Culture Society

The Majestic Melaka - 188, Jln. Bunga Raya, Pengkalan Rama, 75100 Melaka, Malaysia

Kumi Cafe - 21, Lorong Setiabistari 2, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan, Malaysia

Quentins Eurasian Restaurant - 139 Ceylon Rd, Level 1 Eurasian Heritage Gallery, Singapore 429744

Noel Felix - Kristang Musician

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

Would you sacrifice an ox for the sake of cinnamon? Spices were once the global currency, sometimes worth more than gold. Myths around spices kept the prices high, fuelling spice empires around the world, including in Melaka.

Modern Malaysia traces its origins to the dawn of the 15th Century. After the fall of Srivijaya, Melaka emerged as a fierce trade empire, connecting lucrative markets in India and China. Some of these foreign traders settled in Melaka, married local women and seeded a new cultural group - Peranakans.

The Melaka Chetti community is one of 9 distinct Peranakan groups in Malaysia. We hear from Amuda Pillay and Nirmala Devi from the Melaka Chetti Heritage Asssociation (@melaka_chetti_kitchen) about life in Kampung Chetti and the importance of food. They share their experiences in keeping their culinary traditions alive through a cookbook, which was collaboratively written by the entire community.

References and Resources

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

The Melaka Chetti Kitchen Cookbook (2023), Julie Wong, David Neo, Melaka Chetti Heritage Association

The Melaka Chetti Heritage Association (Persatuan Warisan Chetti Melaka Malaysia)

The Science of Spice: Understand Flavour Connections and Revolutionize your Cooking (2018), Dr Stuart Farrimond

Chetti Museum - Jalan Gajah Berang, Kampung Chetti, 75200 Melaka, Malaysia

Wen's Kitchen - 169, Jalan Tengkera, 75200 Melaka

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

Do you know Bella Chan? Fishing traditions gave rise to one of Malaysia's most important ingredients - belacan. Beyond cuisine though, belacan tells us a lot about Malaysia's seafaring history.

1,500 years ago, sea trading in South East Asia began to boom and from the spoils, the world's greatest maritime empire emerged - Srivijaya. Centred on the island of Sumatra, Srivijaya dominated trade in the region and extended its power to outposts on the Malay peninsular. Part of Srivijaya's success was its fierce naval force - the Orang Laut.

Today, Orang Laut communities are at a crossroad. We hear from anthropologist Ilya Katrinnada (@katrinnada_ ) about the Orang Laut communities that straddle the strait between Malaysia and Singapore. We talk about the challenges that modernism presents, the dying cultural traditions and how art can bring these traditions back to life.

References and Resources

A History of Malaysia, 2016, Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Photo Essay - Changing Tides, Staying Grounded, Ilya Katrinnada and Jefree Salim

Air - Drama Box Production

The Orang Seletar - Rowing Across Changing Tides, Ilya Katrinnada, Biblio Asia, National Library of Singapore

Orang Laut SG

Gerimis Art

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

Can coconuts really travel along ocean currents? Maybe, but that's probably not how they spread around the world.

We look at coconuts and Malaysia's ancient maritime history. The Malay and Indonesian archipelagos contain some 25,000 islands, home to communities that were once much more connected. These are the lands of Nusantara, a common ancestor of many South East Asian cultures.

We hear from food historian Khir Johari (@khir19) about the Nusantaran spirit and how different South East Asian cuisines have a lot more in common than we think.

And food writer Maria Stephanie (@ssshteffi) shares her efforts to revitalise foraging and cooking traditions that are fast-disappearing.

References and Resources

Food of Singapore Malays: Gastronomic Travels Through the Archipelago (2021), Khir Johari

Dialogues by Khir

Dari Bumi Nusantara ke Piring Kita, 2024, Maria Stephanie

Gunn BF, Baudouin L, Olsen KM (2011) Independent Origins of Cultivated Coconut (Cocos nucifera L.) in the Old World Tropics. PLoS ONE 6(6): e21143.

Contesting Malayness - Malay identity across Boundaries (2003), Timothy Barnard

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

Is durian really that controversial? Pop culture will have you believe that durian is equal parts maligned and celebrated. But there's so much more to the King of Fruits than its smell.

We take a look at durian and it's connection to the ancient lands of Malaysia. Along the way, we meet a community that many Malaysians don't even know exist - the indigenous Orang Asli peoples.

We hear from Emily Wong of Native Discovery (@discovernative) about the many different Orang Asli cultures of the Malay peninsula and what it means to be a good ally. And community leader Ronnie Bahari (@ronnie.ronjohn.bahari) shares his efforts to revitalise his own culture, which ironically involves old colonial textbooks.

References and Resources

Native Discovery

Persatuan Kebudayaan Dan Kesenian Orang Asal Perak

Gerimis Art

Pagan Races of the Malay Peninsula (1906), W.W. Skeat and C.O. Blagden

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

There's no such thing as Malaysian cuisine! In the very first episode, we shatter the myths surrounding Malaysia and its diverse food culture. Kicking things off with satay, we look at the mysterious origins of this classic Malaysian dish. It's a story that tells us a lot about what people know, and think they know, about Malaysia.

Hear from food writer and cultural custodian Kalsom Taib, who is older than Malaysia itself. She shares her knowledge on Malaysia's rich culinary landscape and its many historical influences.

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip GIbson, this episode sets the scene for an exciting series that will delve into the rich histories, cultures and cuisines of a very misunderstood nation.

Resources

Malaysia's Culinary Heritage - The Best of Authentic Traditional Recipes (2021), Kalsom Taib

Satay on Bayon Temple Relief - Alamy

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust