January 09, 2015

Shopping and fretting: the ethics of buying the right thing

1 hour 4 minutes

The public outrage that followed the

discovery of several ‘forced labour’ labels sewn into clothes stocked by

budget clothing shop Primark has brought the issue of the ethics of the

supply chain back into the headlines. Just what is the real cost of

cheap goods in the West? In April 2013, 1,100 people – including garment

workers who had been producing clothes for UK retailers - died when the

Rana Plaza commercial block in Bangladesh collapsed. Earlier this year,

the Guardian claimed fishmeal used to produce farmed prawns for

UK supermarkets was produced using fish caught with slave labour. These

revelations fit into a history of claims made about ‘sweatshop’

conditions faced by workers producing everything from fashionable

footwear to top-of-the-range consumer electronics. However the problem

is not restricted to developing countries, as cases of exploitation and

abuse of labourers continue to emerge across the UK, too.

Some have called for UK retailers to boycott firms or even entire

countries that allow unacceptable working practices. After the Rana

Plaza disaster, Labour MP Michael Connarty demanded legislation to force

UK firms to audit their supply chains. But others believe boycotts do

more harm than good and that a better solution is to maintain commercial

links while demanding suppliers improve and work towards higher

standards. As a recent report by the British Retail Consortium notes:

‘Retailers drive positive change by embedding certain values and

standards in their supply chain that are central to its brand and which

address specific issues or concerns that are important to their customer

base.’ Withdrawing entirely from a country, some argue, would actually

make things worse by causing thousands of relatively poor people to lose

their jobs. What is more, given the long and complicated international

supply chains that big retailers deal with today, is it really possible

to ensure goods are produced in an ethical fashion? Or do we need ever

more scrutiny of big businesses to ensure they don’t turn a blind eye

for the sake of profit?

While retailers debate how best to restore trust and demonstrate that

their products are ethically sourced – for example, by making details

of supply chains more transparent - shoppers are under pressure to ‘buy

responsibly’. Maybe it makes business sense, too, as ethical fashion

labels have become trendy and no doubt attract higher profit-margins

than low-cost clothing. However, some commentators warn against

demonising those who seek out cheap bargains or undermining the harmless

joys of shopping by turning retail therapy into an anxious moral maze

of label-checking.

Is virtuous shopping really a case of guilt-ridden consumers in the

West showing off their consciences rather than helping exploited

producers? Or is it at least better than nothing, a morally worthwhile

alternative that reminds us of our responsibility to others? Could

clumsy interventions by retailers, responding to pressure from

campaigners, make things worse rather than better for developing-world

workers? Should concerns about working conditions be dealt with by

governments and workers in the producing countries rather than by

shoppers and stores in the UK?

Speakers

Sandy Black

professor of fashion & textile design & technology,

London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, London; editor and

co-author, The Sustainable Fashion Handbook; author, Eco Chic the Fashion Paradox

Barbara Crowther

director of policy and public affairs, Fairtrade Foundation

Andrew Opie

director for food and sustainability, British Retail Consortium

Nathalie Rothschild

freelance journalist; producer and reporter for Sweden's public service radio

Chair

Jason Smith

partnerships coordinator, Debating Matters Competition; freelance journalist; co-founder, Birmingham Salon

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