Sprengisandur is a barren and desolate highland plateau in central Iceland, located between the Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull glaciers. Historically, it was an infamous north-south route connecting various regions, including access to the Alþingi (Iceland’s parliament) at Þingvellir during medieval times.

This route, however, was fraught with extreme challenges, making it one of the most feared and avoided paths of the Icelandic interior.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing an Icelandic folklore story every Friday in 2024.

Travelers faced vast stretches of uninhabited terrain, where no shelter, food, or water was available for miles. The volcanic ash deserts offered no forage for horses, and the journey had to be completed swiftly, often pushing horses to their limits. The route was also steeped in superstition, with tales of ghosts and spirits haunting the desolate sands adding to its ominous reputation.

Today, a gravel road roughly follows the ancient trail, accessible only in summer, and is popular among adventurous travelers equipped with robust vehicles. It offers dramatic views of glaciers, mountains, and volcanic landscapes, preserving its mystique as one of Iceland’s most challenging historical route.

There was a man named Starkaður who lived in northern Iceland but the woman he loved lived in the far south. Driven by love, Starkaður decided to make the long journey across the harsh and desolate Sprengisandur to see her.

Tragically, he was caught in a fierce storm along the way and succumbed to the freezing conditions beneath a rock. That rock, now called Starkaðarsteinn (Starkaður’s Rock), marks the spot where he died. The surrounding area was also named in his memory, becoming known as Starkaðarver.

Around the time of his death, his love had a vivid dream in which Starkaður appeared to her. In this dream, he recited a poignant verse:

“Sorrows and harms for a woman’s charms

men have often suffered.

Starkaður’s bones under the stones

still lie undiscovered.”

https://youtu.be/ogUgm3K8KVI?si=C2PWn9NRC0muBwIM

“Á Sprengisandi” is a well known Icelandic song about this desolate and dangerous black sand desert in the highlands. It means “At Sprengisandur” and warns people that if they do not travel quickly through this area, they can meet their peril.

The name “Sprengisandur” reflects this urgency, stemming from the Icelandic word sprengja, meaning “to exhaust” or “to burst,” referring to the strain placed on horses during the crossing.

Harsh weather, including strong winds and snow, compounded the danger, and travelers who ventured too late in the season risked becoming stranded or perishing from exposure.

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